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The Highlands of Ethiopia

Volume One—Chapter Twenty Eight.
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renewal of debates by ibrahim shehém abli, surnamed “the devil”—final escape to waramilli.

affairs nevertheless began now to assume a more desperate appearance than ever. the night of this day of good tidings setting-in with a storm of dust, followed by a heavy fall of rain, a party of bedouins scoured unperceived through the camp, and in spite of every precaution swept off many articles of trifling value. amongst the booty was a tub of sugar-candy, which, on the hue and cry being raised, the rogues were fain to abandon, together with the bedding of one of the escort. an incessant bombardment of large stones was kept up during the whole night from the thick underwood in the vicinity, directed as well against the sentries on duty, who paced the same weary ground for the ten thousandth time, as against the position occupied by the sleepers, one of whom, having emerged for a moment from the tarpaulin which the rain had rendered indispensable, received a severe contusion.

mohammad ali, in a state of evident alarm, came as soon as the shower had abated to say that there existed no prospect of the march being resumed in accordance with the solemn promise of the ras el káfilah; and that feeling longer unable to answer for the lives of the party amongst such a congregation of lawless ruffians, he was desirous of conducting to shoa on horseback all who felt so disposed, leaving the heavy baggage to be secured by his father as far as circumstances would admit. should matters unfortunately reach the decided crisis which there seemed every reason to apprehend, the son of ali abi was clearly the staff whereon to rely, his intercourse with europeans having rendered his manners more frank and ingenuous than those of his selfish and shuffling rivals; but although kaláms and altercations had again commenced, a sense of duty for the present precluded the adoption of his project.

morning of the 29th dawned upon no preparations for departure, and a fresh source of detention was indeed found to have arisen from a new claim for precedence put in by ibrahim shehém, the litigious member of the tribe abli, which ranks in the danákil nation next to that of adáli, to which the brother of the reigning sultán belongs. another tedious day of insult and debate ensued; but the question was at length disposed of by the congress, who decided the fiery little warrior to hold place second to izhák in the conduct of the káfilah, to the exclusion of mohammad ali, through whose tribe the party were now to pass.

again it was announced with due formality that all matters at issue were peaceably and satisfactorily arranged, and several bales of blue calico, with quantities of snuff, tobacco, and dates, having been distributed among the weary disputants, they were finally induced to disperse, each carrying his tobe folded in triangular form, and stuck, as if in triumph of his plunder, like a placard, at the end of a slit stick. ibrahim ibn háme?do, akil of the hy somauli, left at his departure a clump of twenty bold spearmen to escort the embassy to the banks of the háwash; and, after shaking hands with each of the european party, to the benediction “fee amán illah,” bade the whole “tarik is suláma” god speed upon the road.

ibrahim shehém abli, appropriately surnamed by his compatriots “shaytan,” or “the evil one,” carried a great soul under a very diminutive person; and being a perfect roostum in his own estimation, was one of those who honoured the humble tent of the embassy with a much larger share of his presence than could have been desired. no sooner was it pitched than the consequential little man strutted in as if by previous invitation, and, with an air that left no doubt as to the side on which he considered the obligation to lay, spread his mat in the least convenient position that could have been selected to the lawful proprietors of the interior. by virtue of a claim which it had heretofore been difficult to understand, he considered himself entitled to the receipt of rations in addition to the handsome pecuniary remuneration extorted at tajúra, and to keep him out of mischief, he had daily obtained in common with the ras el káfilah two large handfuls of rice.

elated by his recent advancement, he this evening, after sleeping some hours on the table, suddenly bounced upon his legs, and assuming an attitude of mortal defiance, which his contemptible presence rendered truly diverting, exclaimed with the most exaggerated want of courtesy, “you franks don’t know who i am, or you would treat me with more respect. i am ibrahim shehém abli, who slew the chief of the muda?to in single combat, and”—placing the hand of one of his audience in a frightful chasm of the skull, which afforded ample room for three fingers and a half—“here is the wound i received upon that occasion. do you conceive that i can always consent to receive the paltry pittance of rice with which i have hitherto been put off? double the quantity immediately, and see that i have my proper share of dates and coffee too, or by the head of the prophet we shall not long continue on our present friendly terms.”

an arab of desperate fortunes, the ancestor of this pugnacious little hero, is said to have concealed himself, clothed in white robes, among the spreading branches of a tree; and his partisans having induced the simple-minded villagers to repair to the spot in the dusk of evening, the intruder, on being discovered, was accosted deferentially as a spirit. revealing himself under the character of a great arabian warrior, who had shun his thousands in the battle, the man of valour was entreated to descend, and become one of the tribe; but to this he would by no means consent until a pledge had been passed to recognise him as its chief, and assign as his own the whole extent of country visible from his elevated perch, which done, he was pleased to alight, and became the father of braves. ’tis well for his posterity that the experiment had not been made in a later day, or the cotton robe would have been stripped from the shoulder of the warrior, and a lifeless trunk been left beneath the tree to mark the interview.

throughout the sojourn of the embassy at killulloo, izhák had peremptorily insisted upon the tent being struck at sunset, lest the display of so much white and blue cloth might excite the cupidity of the bedouins, and the preparations making to carry this despotic order into effect, may perhaps have been the means of ruffling the never very placid temper of his now second in command. the aversion of the ras el káfilah to any thing like a habitable structure being well understood, the unhoused party amused itself at his expense, by the erection of stone walls of considerable extent, as a shelter during the coming night of rain. “in the name of allah,” he exclaimed, blustering up to the spot, and kicking over a portion of the fabric with the pointed toe of the very sandal that had suffered so severely during the disagreeable debate at ambábo,—“in the name of allah and his prophet, what is the meaning of all this? we shall have our throats cut to a man if you people persist in this folly: there will be no rain to-night!”

but the rain did fall in torrents, notwithstanding the assurance of the ras; and although the ravine was now comparatively clear of ragamuffins, stones continued to rattle at intervals against the awning erected for the shelter of the european sentries. that portion of the party off duty, steamed, after an hour’s drenching, under thick heavy tarpaulins, whilst the fluid glided unheeded over the sleeping persons of the paid escort, who were well-greased and oiled, like wild ducks prepared for a long flight.

on the last day of the month, after nearly a week’s tedious detention in an insalubrious and soul-depressing spot, surrounded by black basaltic rocks, where little forage could be obtained, where water, although abundant, was extremely bad, and where the persecutions of prying savages, from whom there was no escape, were unceasing, the embassy was again permitted to resume its march. every hour had seemed an age, and “galla gasseto?,” the well-known cry to load, had therefore never been listened to with more heartfelt delight. until after the rear of the string of camels left the ground, and izhák was fairly seated on his mule, it was scarcely possible to believe that some fresh cause of detention would not be discovered; but the debates were at last over, and the litigants, weary of raising new objections, suffered their victims to advance in peace.

the road wound up the killulloo wady, and thence over a barren rise strewed with obsidian, and with stones, the common pest of the country, to waramilli. an interesting sight was presented in the line of march of a tribe proceeding in quest of water to the northward—a long line of dromedaries, homed cattle, oxen, sheep, and goats, interspersed by women and children, scantily clad in leathern petticoats, and laden with the rude date matting of portable wigwams, or the still ruder implements of household gear. whilst the females thus bore heavy burdens slung across their breasts or led the files of camels, upon which rocked the long, raking, ship-like ribs of the dismantled cabin, the lazy lords sauntered ungallantly along, encumbered with naught save the equipment of spear and buckler, the ferocious aspect of all giving ample presage of the intentions entertained towards any party less formidable than themselves.

total absence of water on the route usually pursued had determined the ras el káfilah, after much discussion and deliberation, to adopt the lower and shorter road, which, in consequence of the frequent forays of the galla, had been for some years closed to caravans. but notwithstanding that so much invaluable time had been lost at killulloo under such provoking circumstances, and that the march finally made thence fell short of seven miles, he again persisted in halting, thus affording to hajji ali mohammad and wáyess ibn haga?o an opportunity of rejoining with a party of troublesome bedouins. the renewed discussions, which did not fail to follow this influx of savages, together with the artful assurances given of the danger to be apprehended on the road selected, had nearly prevailed upon the unstable izhák to take the káfilah back to killulloo, for the purpose of proceeding by the upper road; but ibrahim shehém abli, stepping forward in his new capacity, drew his creese, and performing sundry not-to-be-mistaken gestures, swore vehemently upon the sacred korán to rip up the belly of the very first blockhead who should attempt a retrograde step—his object doubtless being to thwart the views of mohammad ali, whose tribe, occupying the upper ground, would derive advantage from the transit of the embassy by that quarter.

waramilli is the usual encamping ground of a section of the gibdósa ada?el, but their place was fortunately empty. completely environed by low hills, it proved insufferably hot; and no water was obtainable nearer than wady killulloo, now distant more than two miles from the bivouac; but the party were in some measure reconciled to detention in this spot by the arrival from tajúra of a special messenger, bringing letters which bore very recent dates. nevertheless the dankáli to whose hands the packet had first been consigned had nearly perished from intense heat and want of water in his attempt to pass the salt lake; and being compelled to relinquish the journey, had returned to the sea-port nearer dead than alive.

petty thefts without end were committed by the lawless rabble who had followed the caravan and located themselves in the immediate neighbourhood. ibrahim shehém abli, totally regardless of the character due to his exaltation, was detected in the very act of drawing a cloth with his foot over a pair of pistols, whilst he cleverly held the proprietor in conversation. his design was to obtain a reward for their restitution,—a trick in common practice by the camel-drivers and hired escort; and this was by no means the first exhibition of his own knavery. but it was some consolation to perceive that, although the franks were of course the principal sufferers, depredations were not altogether restricted to their property. numerous shields and cloths were abstracted from too confident danákil; the ras el káfilah’s sandals were purloined; and at the going down of the sun, a proclamation went forth through ibrahim burhánto, the common camp-crier, that wáyess ibn haga?o, akil of the wóema, having lost his spear, all parties possessing knowledge of the nefarious transaction were required to give information of the same to the proprietor, as they hoped to prosper!

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