september 2d.—we got into our new house in rock park yesterday. it is quite a good house, with three apartments, beside kitchen and pantry on the lower floor; and it is three stories high, with four good chambers in each story. it is a stone edifice, like almost all the english houses, and handsome in its design. the rent, without furniture, would probably have been one hundred pounds; furnished, it is one hundred and sixty pounds. rock park, as the locality is called, is private property, and is now nearly covered with residences for professional people, merchants, and others of the upper middling class; the houses being mostly built, i suppose, on speculation, and let to those who occupy them. it is the quietest place imaginable, there being a police station at the entrance, and the officer on duty allows no ragged or ill-looking person to pass. there being a toll, it precludes all unnecessary passage of carriages; and never were there more noiseless streets than those that give access to these pretty residences. on either side there is thick shrubbery, with glimpses through it of the ornamented portals, or into the trim gardens with smooth-shaven lawns, of no large extent, but still affording reasonable breathing-space. they are really an improvement on anything, save what the very rich can enjoy, in america. the former occupants of our house (mrs. campbell and family) having been fond of flowers, there are many rare varieties in the garden, and we are told that there is scarcely a month in the year when a flower will not be found there.

the house is respectably, though not very elegantly, furnished. it was a dismal, rainy day yesterday, and we had a coal-fire in the sitting-room, beside which i sat last evening as twilight came on, and thought, rather sadly, how many times we have changed our home since we were married. in the first place, our three years at the old manse; then a brief residence at salem, then at boston, then two or three years at salem again; then at lenox, then at west newton, and then again at concord, where we imagined that we were fixed for life, but spent only a year. then this farther flight to england, where we expect to spend four years, and afterwards another year or two in italy, during all which time we shall have no real home. for, as i sat in this english house, with the chill, rainy english twilight brooding over the lawn, and a coal-fire to keep me comfortable on the first evening of september, and the picture of a stranger—the dead husband of mrs. campbell—gazing down at me from above the mantel-piece,—i felt that i never should be quite at home here. nevertheless, the fire was very comfortable to look at, and the shape of the fireplace—an arch, with a deep cavity—was an improvement on the square, shallow opening of an american coal-grate.

september 7th.—it appears by the annals of liverpool, contained in gore's directory, that in 1076 there was a baronial castle built by roger de poictiers on the site of the present st. george's church. it was taken down in 1721. the church now stands at one of the busiest points of the principal street of the city. the old church of st. nicholas, founded about the time of the conquest, and more recently rebuilt, stood within a quarter of a mile of the castle.

in 1150, birkenhead priory was founded on the cheshire side of the mersey. the monks used to ferry passengers across to liverpool until 1282, when woodside ferry was established,—twopence for a horseman, and a farthing for a foot-passenger. steam ferry-boats now cross to birkenhead, monk's ferry, and woodside every ten minutes; and i believe there are large hotels at all these places, and many of the business men of liverpool have residences in them.

in 1252 a tower was built by sir john stanley, which continued to be a castle of defence to the stanley family for many hundred years, and was not finally taken down till 1820, when its site had become the present water street, in the densest commercial centre of the city.

there appear to have been other baronial castles and residences in different parts of the city, as a hall in old hall street, built by sir john de la more, on the site of which a counting-house now stands. this knightly family of de la more sometimes supplied mayors to the city, as did the family of the earls of derby.

about 1582, edward, earl of derby, maintained two hundred and fifty citizens of liverpool, fed sixty aged persons twice a day, and provided twenty-seven hundred persons with meat, drink, and money every good friday.

in 1644, prince rupert besieged the town for twenty-four days, and finally took it by storm. this was june 26th, and the parliamentarians, under sir john meldrum, repossessed it the following october.

in 1669 the mayor of liverpool kept an inn.

in 1730 there was only one carriage in town, and no stage-coach came nearer than warrington, the roads being impassable.

in 1734 the earl of derby gave a great entertainment in the tower.

in 1737 the mayor was george norton, a saddler, who frequently took, the chair with his leather apron on. his immediate predecessor seems to have been the earl of derby, who gave the above-mentioned entertainment during his mayoralty. where george's dock now is, there used to be a battery of fourteen eighteen-pounders for the defence of the town, and the old sport of bull-baiting was carried on in that vicinity, close to the church of st. nicholas.

september 12th.—on saturday a young man was found wandering about in west derby, a suburb of liverpool, in a state of insanity, and, being taken before a magistrate, he proved to be an american. as he seemed to be in a respectable station of life, the magistrate sent the master of the workhouse to me, in order to find out whether i would take the responsibility of his expenses, rather than have him put in the workhouse. my clerk went to investigate the matter, and brought me his papers. his name proves to be —— ———, belonging to ———, twenty-five years of age. one of the papers was a passport from our legation in naples; likewise there was a power of attorney from his mother (who seems to have been married a second time) to dispose of some property of hers abroad; a hotel bill, also, of some length, in which were various charges for wine; and, among other evidences of low funds, a pawnbroker's receipt for a watch, which he had pledged at five pounds. there was also a ticket for his passage to america, by the screw steamer andes, which sailed on wednesday last. the clerk found him to the last degree incommunicative; and nothing could be discovered from him but what the papers disclosed. there were about a dozen utterly unintelligible notes among the papers, written by himself since his derangement.

i decided to put him into the insane hospital, where he now accordingly is, and to-morrow (by which time he may be in a more conversable mood) i mean to pay him a visit.

the clerk tells me that there is now, and has been for three years, an american lady in the liverpool almshouse, in a state of insanity. she is very accomplished, especially in music; but in all this time it has been impossible to find out who she is, or anything about her connections or previous life. she calls herself jenny lind, and as for any other name or identity she keeps her own secret.

september 14th.—it appears that mr. ——— (the insane young gentleman) being unable to pay his bill at the inn where he was latterly staying, the landlord had taken possession of his luggage, and satisfied himself in that way. my clerk, at my request, has taken his watch out of pawn. it proves to be not a very good one, though doubtless worth more than five pounds, for which it was pledged. the governor of the lunatic asylum wrote me yesterday, stating that the patient was in want of a change of clothes, and that, according to his own account, he had left his luggage at the american hotel. after office-hours, i took a cab, and set out with my clerk, to pay a visit to the asylum, taking the american hotel in our way.

the american hotel is a small house, not at all such a one as american travellers of any pretension would think of stopping at, but still very respectable, cleanly, and with a neat sitting-room, where the guests might assemble, after the american fashion. we asked for the landlady, and anon down she came, a round, rosy, comfortable-looking english dame of fifty or thereabouts. on being asked whether she knew a mr. ———, she readily responded that he had been there, but, had left no luggage, having taken it away before paying his bill; and that she had suspected him of meaning to take his departure without paying her at all. hereupon she had traced him to the hotel before mentioned, where she had found that he had stayed two nights,—but was then, i think, gone from thence. afterwards she encountered him again, and, demanding her due, went with him to a pawnbroker's, where he pledged his watch and paid her. this was about the extent of the landlady's knowledge of the matter. i liked the woman very well, with her shrewd, good-humored, worldly, kindly disposition.

then we proceeded to the lunatic asylum, to which we were admitted by a porter at the gate. within doors we found some neat and comely servant-women, one of whom showed us into a handsome parlor, and took my card to the governor. there was a large bookcase, with a glass front, containing handsomely bound books, many of which, i observed, were of a religious character. in a few minutes the governor came in, a middle-aged man, tall, and thin for an englishman, kindly and agreeable enough in aspect, but not with the marked look of a man of force and ability. i should not judge from his conversation that he was an educated man, or that he had any scientific acquaintance with the subject of insanity.

he said that mr. ——— was still quite incommunicative, and not in a very promising state; that i had perhaps better defer seeing him for a few days; that it would not be safe, at present, to send him home to america without an attendant, and this was about all. but on returning home i learned from my wife, who had had a call from mrs. blodgett, that mrs. blodgett knew mr. ——— and his mother, who has recently been remarried to a young husband, and is now somewhere in italy. they seemed to have boarded at mrs. blodgett's house on their way to the continent, and within a week or two, an acquaintance and pastor of mr. ———, the rev. dr. ———, has sailed for america. if i could only have caught him, i could have transferred the care, expense, and responsibility of the patient to him. the governor of the asylum mentioned, by the way, that mr. ——— describes himself as having been formerly a midshipman in the navy.

i walked through the st. james's cemetery yesterday. it is a very pretty place, dug out of the rock, having formerly, i believe, been a stone-quarry. it is now a deep and spacious valley, with graves and monuments on its level and grassy floor, through which run gravel-paths, and where grows luxuriant shrubbery. on one of the steep sides of the valley, hewn out of the rock, are tombs, rising in tiers, to the height of fifty feet or more; some of them cut directly into the rock with arched portals, and others built with stone. on the other side the bank is of earth, and rises abruptly, quite covered with trees, and looking very pleasant with their green shades. it was a warm and sunny day, and the cemetery really had a most agreeable aspect. i saw several gravestones of americans; but what struck me most was one line of an epitaph on an english woman, "here rests in peace a virtuous wife." the statue of huskisson stands in the midst of the valley, in a kind of mausoleum, with a door of plate-glass, through which you look at the dead statesman's effigy.

september 22d.—. . . . some days ago an american captain came to the office, and said he had shot one of his men, shortly after sailing from new orleans, and while the ship was still in the river. as he described the event, he was in peril of his life from this man, who was an irishman; and he fired his pistol only when the man was coming upon him, with a knife in one hand, and some other weapon of offence in the other, while he himself was struggling with one or two more of the crew. he was weak at the time, having just recovered from the yellow fever. the shots struck the man in the pit of the stomach, and he lived only about a quarter of an hour. no magistrate in england has a right to arrest or examine the captain, unless by a warrant from the secretary of state, on the charge of murder. after his statement to me, the mother of the slain man went to the police officer, and accused him of killing her son. two or three days since, moreover, two of the sailors came before me, and gave their account of the matter; and it looked very differently from that of the captain. according to them, the man had no idea of attacking the captain, and was so drunk that he could not keep himself upright without assistance. one of these two men was actually holding him up when the captain fired two barrels of his pistol, one immediately after the other, and lodged two balls in the pit of his stomach. the man sank down at once, saying, "jack, i am killed,"—and died very shortly. meanwhile the captain drove this man away, under threats of shooting him likewise. both the seamen described the captain's conduct, both then and during the whole voyage, as outrageous, and i do not much doubt that it was so. they gave their evidence like men who wished to tell the truth, and were moved by no more than a natural indignation at the captain's wrong.

i did not much like the captain from the first,—a hard, rough man, with little education, and nothing of the gentleman about him, a red face and a loud voice. he seemed a good deal excited, and talked fast and much about the event, but yet not as if it had sunk deeply into him. he observed that he "would not have had it happen for a thousand dollars," that being the amount of detriment which he conceives himself to suffer by the ineffaceable blood-stain on his hand. in my opinion it is little short of murder, if at all; but what would be murder on shore is almost a natural occurrence when done in such a hell on earth as one of these ships, in the first hours of the voyage. the men are then all drunk,— some of them often in delirium tremens; and the captain feels no safety for his life except in making himself as terrible as a fiend. it is the universal testimony that there is a worse set of sailors in these short voyages between liverpool and america than in any other trade whatever.

there is no probability that the captain will ever be called to account for this deed. he gave, at the time, his own version of the affair in his log-book; and this was signed by the entire crew, with the exception of one man, who had hidden himself in the hold in terror of the captain. his mates will sustain his side of the question; and none of the sailors would be within reach of the american courts, even should they be sought for.

october 1st.—on thursday i went with mr. ticknor to chester by railway. it is quite an indescribable old town, and i feel at last as if i had had a glimpse of old england. the wall encloses a large space within the town, but there are numerous houses and streets not included within its precincts. some of the principal streets pass under the ancient gateways; and at the side there are flights of steps, giving access to the summit. around the top of the whole wall, a circuit of about two miles, there runs a walk, well paved with flagstones, and broad enough for three persons to walk abreast. on one side—that towards the country—there is a parapet of red freestone three or four feet high. on the other side there are houses, rising up immediately from the wall, so that they seem a part of it. the height of it, i suppose, may be thirty or forty feet, and, in some parts, you look down from the parapet into orchards, where there are tall apple-trees, and men on the branches, gathering fruit, and women and children among the grass, filling bags or baskets. there are prospects of the surrounding country among the buildings outside the wall; at one point, a view of the river dee, with an old bridge of arches. it is all very strange, very quaint, very curious to see how the town has overflowed its barrier, and how, like many institutions here, the ancient wall still exists, but is turned to quite another purpose than what it was meant for,—so far as it serves any purpose at all. there are three or four towers in the course of the circuit; the most interesting being one from the top of which king charles the first is said to have seen the rout of his army by the parliamentarians. we ascended the short flight of steps that led up into the tower, where an old man pointed out the site of the battle-field, now thickly studded with buildings, and told us what we had already learned from the guide-book. after this we went into the cathedral, which i will perhaps describe on some other occasion, when i shall have seen more of it, and to better advantage. the cloisters gave us the strongest impression of antiquity; the stone arches being so worn and blackened by time. still an american must always have imagined a better cathedral than this. there were some immense windows of painted glass, but all modern. in the chapter-house we found a coal-fire burning in a grate, and a large heap of old books—the library of the cathedral—in a discreditable state of decay,—mildewed, rotten, neglected for years. the sexton told us that they were to be arranged and better ordered. over the door, inside, hung two failed and tattered banners, being those of the cheshire regiment.

the most utterly indescribable feature of chester is the rows, which every traveller has attempted to describe. at the height of several feet above some of the oldest streets, a walk runs through the front of the houses, which project over it. back of the walk there are shops; on the outer side is a space of two or three yards, where the shopmen place their tables, and stands, and show-cases; overhead, just high enough for persons to stand erect, a ceiling. at frequent intervals little narrow passages go winding in among the houses, which all along are closely conjoined, and seem to have no access or exit, except through the shops, or into these narrow passages, where you can touch each side with your elbows, and the top with your hand. we penetrated into one or two of them, and they smelt anciently and disagreeably. at one of the doors stood a pale-looking, but cheerful and good-natured woman, who told us that she had come to that house when first married, twenty-one years before, and had lived there ever since; and that she felt as if she had been buried through the best years of her life. she allowed us to peep into her kitchen and parlor,—small, dingy, dismal, but yet not wholly destitute of a home look. she said that she had seen two or three coffins in a day, during cholera times, carried out of that narrow passage into which her door opened. these avenues put me in mind of those which run through ant-hills, or those which a mole makes underground. this fashion of rows does not appear to be going out; and, for aught i can see, it may last hundreds of years longer. when a house becomes so old as to be untenantable, it is rebuilt, and the new one is fashioned like the old, so far as regards the walk running through its front. many of the shops are very good, and even elegant, and these rows are the favorite places of business in chester. indeed, they have many advantages, the passengers being sheltered from the rain, and there being within the shops that dimmer light by which tradesmen like to exhibit their wares.

a large proportion of the edifices in the rows must be comparatively modern; but there are some very ancient ones, with oaken frames visible on the exterior. the row, passing through these houses, is railed with oak, so old that it has turned black, and grown to be as hard as stone, which it might be mistaken for, if one did not see where names and initials have been cut into it with knives at some bygone period. overhead, cross-beams project through the ceiling so low as almost to hit the head. on the front of one of these buildings was the inscription, "god's providence is mine inheritance," said to have been put there by the occupant of the house two hundred years ago, when the plague spared this one house only in the whole city. not improbably the inscription has operated as a safeguard to prevent the demolition of the house hitherto; but a shopman of an adjacent dwelling told us that it was soon to be taken down.

here and there, about some of the streets through which the rows do not run, we saw houses of very aged aspect, with steep, peaked gables. the front gable-end was supported on stone pillars, and the sidewalk passed beneath. most of these old houses seemed to be taverns,—the black bear, the green dragon, and such names. we thought of dining at one of them, but, on inspection, they looked rather too dingy and close, and of questionable neatness. so we went to the royal hotel, where we probably fared just as badly at much more expense, and where there was a particularly gruff and crabbed old waiter, who, i suppose, thought himself free to display his surliness because we arrived at the hotel on foot. for my part, i love to see john bull show himself. i must go again and again and again to chester, for i suppose there is not a more curious place in the world.

mr. ticknor, who has been staying at rock park with us since tuesday, has steamed away in the canada this morning. his departure seems to make me feel more abroad, more dissevered from my native country, than before.

october 3d.—saturday evening, at six, i went to dine with mr. aiken, a wealthy merchant here, to meet two of the sons of burns. there was a party of ten or twelve, mr. aiken and his two daughters included. the two sons of burns have both been in the indian army, and have attained the ranks of colonel and major; one having spent thirty, and the other twenty-seven years in india. they are now old gentlemen of sixty and upwards, the elder with a gray head, the younger with a perfectly white one,—rather under than above the middle stature, and with a british roundness of figure,—plain, respectable, intelligent-looking persons, with quiet manners. i saw no resemblance in either of them to any portrait of their father. after the ladies left the table, i sat next to the major, the younger of the two, and had a good deal of talk with him. he seemed a very kindly and social man, and was quite ready to speak about his father, nor was he at all reluctant to let it be seen how much he valued the glory of being descended from the poet. by and by, at mr. aiken's instance, he sang one of burns's songs,—the one about "annie" and the "rigs of barley." he sings in a perfectly simple style, so that it is little more than a recitative, and yet the effect is very good as to humor, sense, and pathos. after rejoining the ladies, he sang another, "a posie for my ain dear may," and likewise "a man's a man for a' that." my admiration of his father, and partly, perhaps, my being an american, gained me some favor with him, and he promised to give me what he considered the best engraving of burns, and some other remembrance of him. the major is that son of burns who spent an evening at abbotsford with sir walter scott, when, as lockhart writes, "the children sang the ballads of their sires." he spoke with vast indignation of a recent edition of his father's works by robert chambers, in which the latter appears to have wronged the poet by some misstatements.—i liked them both and they liked me, and asked me to go and see there at cheltenham, where they reside. we broke up at about midnight.

the members of this dinner-party were of the more liberal tone of thinking here in liverpool. the colonel and major seemed to be of similar principles; and the eyes of the latter glowed, when he sang his father's noble verse, "the rank is but the guinea's stamp," etc. it would have been too pitiable if burns had left a son who could not feel the spirit of that verse.

october 8th.—coning to my office, two or three mornings ago, i found mrs. ———, the mother of mr. ———, the insane young man of whom i had taken charge. she is a lady of fifty or thereabouts, and not very remarkable anyway, nor particularly lady-like. however, she was just come off a rapid journey, having travelled from naples, with three small children, without taking rest, since my letter reached her. a son (this proved to be her new husband) of about twenty had come with her to the consulate. she was, of course, infinitely grieved about the young man's insanity, and had two or three bursts of tears while we talked the matter over. she said he was the hope of her life,—the best, purest, most innocent child that ever was, and wholly free from every kind of vice. but it appears that he had a previous attack of insanity, lasting three months, about three years ago.

after i had told her all i knew about him, including my personal observations at a visit a week or two since, we drove in a cab to the asylum. it must have been a dismal moment to the poor lady, as we entered the gateway through a tall, prison-like wall. being ushered into the parlor, the governor soon appeared, and informed us that mr. ——— had had a relapse within a few days, and was not now so well as when i saw him. he complains of unjust confinement, and seems to consider himself, if i rightly understand, under persecution for political reasons. the governor, however, proposed to call him down, and i took my leave, feeling that it would be indelicate to be present at his first interview with his mother. so here ended my guardianship of the poor young fellow.

in the afternoon i called at the waterloo hotel, where mrs. ——— was staying, and found her in the coffee-room with the children. she had determined to take a lodging in the vicinity of the asylum, and was going to remove thither as soon as the children had had something to eat. they seemed to be pleasant and well-behaved children, and impressed me more favorably than the mother, whom i suspect to be rather a foolish woman, although her present grief makes her appear in a more respectable light than at other times. she seemed anxious to impress me with the respectability and distinction of her connections in america, and i had observed the same tendency in the insane patient, at my interview with him. however, she has undoubtedly a mother's love for this poor shatterbrain, and this may weigh against the folly of her marrying an incongruously youthful second husband, and many other follies.

this was day before yesterday, and i have heard nothing of her since. the same day i had applications for assistance in two other domestic affairs; one from an irishman, naturalized in america, who wished me to get him a passage thither, and to take charge of his wife and family here, at my own private expense, until he could remit funds to carry them across. another was from an irishman, who had a power of attorney from a countrywoman of his in america, to find and take charge of an infant whom she had left in the liverpool work-house, two years ago. i have a great mind to keep a list of all the business i am consulted about and employed in. it would be very curious. among other things, all penniless americans, or pretenders to americanism, look upon me as their banker; and i could ruin myself any week, if i had not laid down a rule to consider every applicant for assistance an impostor until he prove himself a true and responsible man,—which it is very difficult to do. yesterday there limped in a very respectable-looking old man, who described himself as a citizen of baltimore, who had been on a trip to england and elsewhere, and, being detained longer than he expected, and having had an attack of rheumatism, was now short of funds to pay his passage home, and hoped that i would supply the deficiency. he had quite a plain, homely, though respectable manner, and, for aught i know, was the very honestest man alive; but as he could produce no kind of proof of his character and responsibility, i very quietly explained the impossibility of my helping him. i advised him to try to obtain a passage on board of some baltimore ship, the master of which might be acquainted with him, or, at all events, take his word for payment, after arrival. this he seemed inclined to do, and took his leave. there was a decided aspect of simplicity about this old man, and yet i rather judge him to be an impostor.

it is easy enough to refuse money to strangers and unknown people, or whenever there may be any question about identity; but it will not be so easy when i am asked for money by persons whom i know, but do not like to trust. they shall meet the eternal "no," however.

october 13th.—in ormerod's history of chester it is mentioned that randal, earl of chester, having made an inroad into wales about 1225, the welshmen gathered in mass against him, and drove him into the castle of nothelert in flintshire. the earl sent for succor to the constable of chester, roger lacy, surnamed "hell," on account of his fierceness. it was then fair-time at chester, and the constable collected a miscellaneous rabble of fiddlers, players, cobblers, tailors, and all manner of debauched people, and led them to the relief of the earl. at sight of this strange army the welshmen fled; and forever after the earl assigned to the constable of chester power over all fiddlers, shoemakers, etc., within the bounds of cheshire. the constable retained for himself and his heirs the control of the shoemakers; and made over to his own steward, dutton, that of the fiddlers and players, and for many hundreds of years afterwards the duttons of dutton retained the power. on midsummer-day, they used to ride through chester, attended by all the minstrels playing on their several instruments, to the church of st. john, and there renew their licenses. it is a good theme for a legend. sir peter leycester, writing in charles the second's time, copies the latin deed from the constable to dutton; rightly translated, it seems to mean "the magisterial power over all the lewd people . . . . in the whole of cheshire," but the custom grew into what is above stated. in the time of henry vii., the duttons claimed, by prescriptive right, that the cheshire minstrels should deliver them, at the feast of st. john, four bottles of wine and a lance, and that each separate minstrel should pay fourpence halfpenny. . . .

another account says ralph dutton was the constable's son-in-law, and "a lusty youth."

october 19th.—coming to the ferry this morning a few minutes before the boat arrived from town, i went into the ferry-house, a small stone edifice, and found there an irishman, his wife and three children, the oldest eight or nine years old, and all girls. there was a good fire burning in the room, and the family was clustered round it, apparently enjoying the warmth very much; but when i went in both husband and wife very hospitably asked me to come to the fire, although there was not more than room at it for their own party. i declined on the plea that i was warm enough, and then the woman said that they were very cold, having been long on the road. the man was gray-haired and gray-bearded, clad in an old drab overcoat, and laden with a huge bag, which seemed to contain bedclothing or something of the kind. the woman was pale, with a thin, anxious, wrinkled face, but with a good and kind expression. the children were quite pretty, with delicate faces, and a look of patience and endurance in them, but yet as if they had suffered as little as they possibly could. the two elder were cuddled up close to the father, the youngest, about four years old, sat in its mother's lap, and she had taken off its small shoes and stockings, and was warming its feet at the fire. their little voices had a sweet and kindly sound as they talked in low tones to their parents and one another. they all looked very shabby, and yet had a decency about them; and it was touching to see how they made themselves at home at this casual fireside, and got all the comfort they could out of the circumstances. by and by two or three market-women came in and looked pleasantly at them, and said a word or two to the children.

they did not beg of me, as i supposed they would; but after looking at them awhile, i pulled out a piece of silver, and handed it to one of the little girls. she took it very readily, as if she partly expected it, and then the father and mother thanked me, and said they had been travelling a long distance, and had nothing to subsist upon, except what they picked up on the road. they found it impossible to live in england, and were now on their way to liverpool, hoping to get a passage back to ireland, where, i suppose, extreme poverty is rather better off than here. i heard the little girl say that she should buy bread with the money. there is not much that can be caught in the description of this scene; but it made me understand, better than before, how poor people feel, wandering about in such destitute circumstances, and how they suffer; and yet how they have a life not quite miserable, after all, and how family love goes along with them. soon the boat arrived at the pier, and we all went on board; and as i sat in the cabin, looking up through a broken pane in the skylight, i saw the woman's thin face, with its anxious, motherly aspect; and the youngest child in her arms, shrinking from the chill wind, but yet not impatiently; and the eldest of the girls standing close by with her expression of childish endurance, but yet so bright and intelligent that it would evidently take but a few days to make a happy and playful child of her. i got into the interior of this poor family, and understand, through sympathy, more of them than i can tell. i am getting to possess some of the english indifference as to beggars and poor people; but still, whenever i come face to face with them, and have any intercourse, it seems as if they ought to be the better for me. i wish, instead of sixpence, i had given the poor family ten shillings, and denied it to a begging subscriptionist, who has just fleeced me to that amount. how silly a man feels in this latter predicament!

i have had a good many visitors at the consulate from the united states within a short time,—among others, mr. d. d. barnard, our late minister to berlin, returning homeward to-day by the arctic; and mr. sickles, secretary of legation to london, a fine-looking, intelligent, gentlemanly young man. . . . with him came judge douglas, the chosen man of young america. he is very short, extremely short, but has an uncommonly good head, and uncommon dignity without seeming to aim at it, being free and simple in manners. i judge him to be a very able man, with the western sociability and free-fellowship. generally i see no reason to be ashamed of my countrymen who come out here in public position, or otherwise assuming the rank of gentlemen.

october 20th.—one sees incidents in the streets here, occasionally, which could not be seen in an american city. for instance, a week or two since, i was passing a quiet-looking, elderly gentleman, when, all of a sudden, without any apparent provocation, he uplifted his stick, and struck a black-gowned boy a smart blow on the shoulders. the boy looked at him wofully and resentfully, but said nothing, nor can i imagine why the thing was done. in tythebarne street to-day i saw a woman suddenly assault a man, clutch at his hair, and cuff him about the ears. the man, who was of decent aspect enough, immediately took to his heels, full speed, and the woman ran after him, and, as far as i could discern the pair, the chase continued.

october 22d.—at a dinner-party at mr. holland's last evening, a gentleman, in instance of charles dickens's unweariability, said that during some theatrical performances in liverpool he acted in play and farce, spent the rest of the night making speeches, feasting, and drinking at table, and ended at seven o'clock in the morning by jumping leap-frog over the backs of the whole company.

in moore's diary he mentions a beautiful guernsey lily having been given to his wife, and says that the flower was originally from guernsey. a ship from there had been wrecked on the coast of japan, having many of the lilies on board, and the next year the flowers appeared,—springing up, i suppose, on the wave-beaten strand.

wishing to send a letter to a dead man, who may be supposed to have gone to tophet,—throw it into the fire.

sir arthur aston had his brains beaten out with his own wooden leg, at the storming of tredagh in ireland by cromwell.

in the county of cheshire, many centuries ago, there lived a half-idiot, named nixon, who had the gift of prophecy, and made many predictions about places, families, and important public events, since fulfilled. he seems to have fallen into fits of insensibility previous to uttering his prophecies.

the family of mainwaring (pronounced mannering), of bromborough, had an ass's head for a crest.

"richard dawson, being sick of the plague, and perceiving he must die, rose out of his bed and made his grave, and caused his nephew to cast straw into the grave, which was not far from the house, and went and laid him down in the said grave, and caused clothes to be laid upon him, and so departed out of this world. this he did because he was a strong man, and heavier than his said nephew and a serving-wench were able to bury. he died about the 24th of august. thus was i credibly told he did, 1625." this was in the township of malpas, recorded in the parish register.

at bickley hall, taken down a few years ago, used to be shown the room where the body of the earl of leicester was laid for a whole twelvemonth,—1659 to 1660,—he having been kept unburied all that time, owing to a dispute which of his heirs should pay his funeral expenses.

november 5th.—we all, together with mr. squarey, went to chester last sunday, and attended the cathedral service. a great deal of ceremony, and not unimposing, but rather tedious before it was finished,—occupying two hours or more. the bishop was present, but did nothing except to pronounce the benediction. in america the sermon is the principal thing; but here all this magnificent ceremonial of prayer and chanted responses and psalms and anthems was the setting to a short, meagre discourse, which would not have been considered of any account among the elaborate intellectual efforts of new england ministers. while this was going on, the light came through the stained glass windows and fell upon the congregation, tingeing them with crimson. after service we wandered about the aisles, and looked at the tombs and monuments,—the oldest of which was that of some nameless abbot, with a staff and mitre half obliterated from his tomb, which was under a shallow arch on one side of the cathedral. there were also marbles on the walls, and lettered stones in the pavement under our feet; but chiefly, if not entirely, of modern date. we lunched at the royal hotel, and then walked round the city walls, also crossing the bridge of one great arch over the dee, and penetrating as far into wales as the entrance of the marquis of westminster's park at eaton. it was, i think, the most lovely day as regards weather that i have seen in england.

i passed, to-day, a man chanting a ballad in the street about a recent murder, in a voice that had innumerable cracks in it, and was most lugubrious. the other day i saw a man who was reading in a loud voice what seemed to be an account of the late riots and loss of life in wigan. he walked slowly along the street as he read, surrounded by a small crowd of men, women, and children; and close by his elbow stalked a policeman, as if guarding against a disturbance.

november 14th.—there is a heavy dun fog on the river and over the city to-day, the very gloomiest atmosphere that ever i was acquainted with. on the river the steamboats strike gongs or ring bells to give warning of their approach. there are lamps burning in the counting-rooms and lobbies of the warehouses, and they gleam distinctly through the windows.

the other day, at the entrance of the market-house, i saw a woman sitting in a small hand-wagon, apparently for the purpose of receiving alms. there was no attendant at hand; but i noticed that one or two persons who passed by seemed to inquire whether she wished her wagon to be moved. perhaps this is her mode of making progress about the city, by the voluntary aid of boys and other people who help to drag her. there is something in this—i don't yet well know what—that has impressed me, as if i could make a romance out of the idea of a woman living in this manner a public life, and moving about by such means.

november 29th.—mr. h. a. b. told me of his friend mr. ——— (who was formerly attache to the british legation at washington, and whom i saw at concord), that his father, a clergyman, married a second wife. after the marriage, the noise of a coffin being nightly carried down the stairs was heard in the parsonage. it could be distinguished when the coffin reached a certain broad lauding and rested on it. finally, his father had to remove to another residence. besides this, mr. ——— had had another ghostly experience,—having seen a dim apparition of an uncle at the precise instant when the latter died in a distant place. the attache is a credible and honorable fellow, and talks of these matters as if he positively believed them. but ghostland lies beyond the jurisdiction of veracity.

in a garden near chester, in taking down a summer-house, a tomb was discovered beneath it, with a latin inscription to the memory of an old doctor of medicine, william bentley, who had owned the place long ago, and died in 1680. and his dust and bones had lain beneath all the merry times in the summer-house.

december 1st.—it is curious to observe how many methods people put in practice here to pick up a halfpenny. yesterday i saw a man standing bareheaded and barelegged in the mud and misty weather, playing on a fife, in hopes to get a circle of auditors. nobody, however, seemed to take any notice. very often a whole band of musicians will strike up,— passing a hat round after playing a tune or two. on board the ferry, until the coldest weather began, there were always some wretched musicians, with an old fiddle, an old clarinet, and an old verdigrised brass bugle, performing during the passage, and, as the boat neared the shore, sending round one of their number to gather contributions in the hollow of the brass bugle. they were a very shabby set, and must have made a very scanty living at best. sometimes it was a boy with an accordion, and his sister, a smart little girl, with a timbrel,—which, being so shattered that she could not play on it, she used only to collect halfpence in. ballad-singers, or rather chanters or croakers, are often to be met with in the streets, but hand-organ players are not more frequent than in our cities.

i still observe little girls and other children barelegged and barefooted on the wet sidewalks. there certainly never was anything so dismal as the november weather has been; never any real sunshine; almost always a mist; sometimes a dense fog, like slightly rarefied wool, pervading the atmosphere.

an epitaph on a person buried on a hillside in cheshire, together with some others, supposed to have died of the plague, and therefore not admitted into the churchyards:—

"think it not strange our bones ly here,

thine may ly thou knowst not where."

elizabeth hampson.

these graves were near the remains of two rude stone crosses, the purpose of which was not certainly known, although they were supposed to be boundary marks. probably, as the plague-corpses were debarred from sanctified ground, the vicinity of these crosses was chosen as having a sort of sanctity.

"bang beggar,"—an old cheshire term for a parish beadle.

hawthorne hall, cheshire, macclesfield hundred, parish of wilmslow, and within the hamlet of morley. it was vested at an early period in the lathoms of irlam, lancaster county, and passed through the leighs to the pages of earlshaw. thomas leigh page sold it to mr. ralph bower of wilmslow, whose children owned it in 1817. the leighs built a chancel in the church of wilmslow, where some of them are buried, their arms painted in the windows. the hall is an "ancient, respectable mansion of brick."

december 2d.—yesterday, a chill, misty december day, yet i saw a woman barefooted in the street, not to speak of children.

cold and uncertain as the weather is, there is still a great deal of small trade carried on in the open air. women and men sit in the streets with a stock of combs and such small things to sell, the women knitting as if they sat by a fireside. cheap crockery is laid out in the street, so far out that without any great deviation from the regular carriage-track a wheel might pass straight through it. stalls of apples are innumerable, but the apples are not fit for a pig. in some streets herrings are very abundant, laid out on boards. coals seem to be for sale by the wheelbarrowful. here and there you see children with some small article for sale,—as, for instance, a girl with two linen caps. a somewhat overladen cart of coal was passing along and some small quantity of the coal fell off; no sooner had the wheels passed than several women and children gathered to the spot, like hens and chickens round a handful of corn, and picked it up in their aprons. we have nothing similar to these street-women in our country.

december 10th.—i don't know any place that brings all classes into contiguity on equal ground so completely as the waiting-room at rock ferry on these frosty days. the room is not more than eight feet, square, with walls of stone, and wooden benches ranged round them, and an open stove in one corner, generally well furnished with coal. it is almost always crowded, and i rather suspect that many persons who have no fireside elsewhere creep in here and spend the most comfortable part of their day.

this morning, when i looked into the room, there were one or two gentlemen and other respectable persons; but in the best place, close to the fire, and crouching almost into it, was an elderly beggar, with the raggedest of overcoats, two great rents in the shoulders of it disclosing the dingy lining, all bepatched with various stuff covered with dirt, and on his shoes and trousers the mud of an interminable pilgrimage. owing to the posture in which he sat, i could not see his face, but only the battered crown and rim of the very shabbiest hat that ever was worn. regardless of the presence of women (which, indeed, englishmen seldom do regard when they wish to smoke), he was smoking a pipe of vile tobacco; but, after all, this was fortunate, because the man himself was not personally fragrant. he was terribly squalid,—terribly; and when i had a glimpse of his face, it well befitted the rest of his development,— grizzled, wrinkled, weather-beaten, yet sallow, and down-looking, with a watchful kind of eye turning upon everybody and everything, meeting the glances of other people rather boldly, yet soon shrinking away; a long thin nose, a gray beard of a week's growth; hair not much mixed with gray, but rusty and lifeless;—a miserable object; but it was curious to see how he was not ashamed of himself, but seemed to feel that he was one of the estates of the kingdom, and had as much right to live as other men. he did just as he pleased, took the best place by the fire, nor would have cared though a nobleman were forced to stand aside for him. when the steamer's bell rang, he shouldered a large and heavy pack, like a pilgrim with his burden of sin, but certainly journeying to hell instead of heaven. on board he looked round for the best position, at first stationing himself near the boiler-pipe; but, finding the deck damp underfoot, he went to the cabin-door, and took his stand on the stairs, protected from the wind, but very incommodiously placed for those who wished to pass. all this was done without any bravado or forced impudence, but in the most quiet way, merely because he was seeking his own comfort, and considered that he had a right to seek it. it was an englishman's spirit; but in our country, i imagine, a beggar considers himself a kind of outlaw, and would hardly assume the privileges of a man in any place of public resort. here beggary is a system, and beggars are a numerous class, and make themselves, in a certain way, respected as such. nobody evinced the slightest disapprobation of the man's proceedings. in america, i think, we should see many aristocratic airs on such provocation, and probably the ferry people would there have rudely thrust the beggar aside; giving him a shilling, however, which no englishman would ever think of doing. there would also have been a great deal of fun made of his squalid and ragged figure; whereas nobody smiled at him this morning, nor in any way showed the slightest disrespect. this is good; but it is the result of a state of things by no means good. for many days there has been a great deal of fog on the river, and the boats have groped their way along, continually striking their bells, while, on all sides, there are responses of bell and gong; and the vessels at anchor look shadow-like as we glide past them, and the master of one steamer shouts a warning to the master of another which he meets. the englishmen, who hate to run any risk without an equivalent object, show a good deal of caution and timidity on these foggy days.

december 13th.—chill, frosty weather; such an atmosphere as forebodes snow in new england, and there has been a little here. yet i saw a barefooted young woman yesterday. the feet of these poor creatures have exactly the red complexion of their hands, acquired by constant exposure to the cold air.

at the ferry-room, this morning, was a small, thin, anxious-looking woman, with a bundle, seeming in rather poor circumstances, but decently dressed, and eying other women, i thought, with an expression of slight ill-will and distrust; also, an elderly, stout, gray-haired woman, of respectable aspect, and two young lady-like persons, quite pretty, one of whom was reading a shilling volume of james's "arabella stuart." they talked to one another with that up-and-down intonation which english ladies practise, and which strikes an unaccustomed ear as rather affected, especially in women of size and mass. it is very different from an american lady's mode of talking: there is the difference between color and no color; the tone variegates it. one of these young ladies spoke to me, making some remark about the weather,—the first instance i have met with of a gentlewoman's speaking to an unintroduced gentleman. besides these, a middle-aged man of the lower class, and also a gentleman's out-door servant, clad in a drab great-coat, corduroy breeches, and drab cloth gaiters buttoned from the knee to the ankle. he complained to the other man of the cold weather; said that a glass of whiskey, every half-hour, would keep a man comfortable; and, accidentally hitting his coarse foot against one of the young lady's feet, said, "beg pardon, ma'am,"—which she acknowledged with a slight movement of the head. somehow or other, different classes seem to encounter one another in an easier manner than with us; the shock is less palpable. i suppose the reason is that the distinctions are real, and therefore need not be continually asserted.

nervous and excitable persons need to talk a great deal, by way of letting off their steam.

on board the rock ferry steamer, a gentleman coming into the cabin, a voice addresses him from a dark corner, "how do you do, sir?"—"speak again!" says the gentleman. no answer from the dark corner; and the gentleman repeats, "speak again!" the speaker now comes out of the dark corner, and sits down in a place where he can be seen. "ah!" cries the gentleman, "very well, i thank you. how do you do? i did not recognize your voice." observable, the english caution, shown in the gentleman's not vouchsafing to say, "very well, thank you!" till he knew his man.

what was the after life of the young man, whom jesus, looking on, "loved," and bade him sell all that he had, and give to the poor, and take up his cross and follow him? something very deep and beautiful might be made out of this.

december 31st.—among the beggars of liverpool, the hardest to encounter is a man without any legs, and, if i mistake not, likewise deficient in arms. you see him before you all at once, as if he had sprouted halfway out of the earth, and would sink down and reappear in some other place the moment he has done with you. his countenance is large, fresh, and very intelligent; but his great power lies in his fixed gaze, which is inconceivably difficult to bear. he never once removes his eye from you till you are quite past his range; and you feel it all the same, although you do not meet his glance. he is perfectly respectful; but the intentness and directness of his silent appeal is far worse than any impudence. in fact, it is the very flower of impudence. i would rather go a mile about than pass before his battery. i feel wronged by him, and yet unutterably ashamed. there must be great force in the man to produce such an effect. there is nothing of the customary squalidness of beggary about him, but remarkable trimness and cleanliness. a girl of twenty or thereabouts, who vagabondizes about the city on her hands and knees, possesses, to a considerable degree, the same characteristics. i think they hit their victims the more effectually from being below the common level of vision.

january 3d, 1854.—night before last there was a fall of snow, about three or four inches, and, following it, a pretty hard frost. on the river, the vessels at anchor showed the snow along their yards, and on every ledge where it could lie. a blue sky and sunshine overhead, and apparently a clear atmosphere close at hand; but in the distance a mistiness became perceptible, obscuring the shores of the river, and making the vessels look dim and uncertain. the steamers were ploughing along, smoking their pipes through the frosty air. on the landing stage and in the streets, hard-trodden snow, looking more like my new england home than anything i have yet seen. last night the thermometer fell as low as 13 degrees, nor probably is it above 20 degrees to-day. no such frost has been known in england these forty years! and mr. wilding tells me that he never saw so much snow before.

january 6th.—i saw, yesterday, stopping at a cabinet-maker's shop in church street, a coach with four beautiful white horses, and a postilion on each near-horse; behind, in the dicky, a footman; and on the box a coachman, all dressed in livery. the coach-panel bore a coat-of-arms with a coronet, and i presume it must have been the equipage of the earl of derby. a crowd of people stood round, gazing at the coach and horses; and when any of them spoke, it was in a lower tone than usual. i doubt not they all had a kind of enjoyment of the spectacle, for these english are strangely proud of having a class above them.

every englishman runs to "the times" with his little grievance, as a child runs to his mother.

i was sent for to the police court the other morning, in the case of an american sailor accused of robbing a shipmate at sea. a large room, with a great coal-fire burning on one side, and above it the portrait of mr. rushton, deceased, a magistrate of many years' continuance. a long table, with chairs, and a witness-box. one of the borough magistrates, a merchant of the city, sat at the head of the table, with paper and pen and ink before him; but the real judge was the clerk of the court, whose professional knowledge and experience governed all the proceedings. in the short time while i was waiting, two cases were tried, in the first of which the prisoner was discharged. the second case was of a woman,—a thin, sallow, hard-looking, careworn, rather young woman,—for stealing a pair of slippers out of a shop: the trial occupied five minutes or less, and she was sentenced to twenty-one days' imprisonment,—whereupon, without speaking, she looked up wildly first into one policeman's face, then into another's, at the same time wringing her hands with no theatric gesture, but because her torment took this outward shape,—and was led away. the yankee sailor was then brought up,—an intelligent, but ruffian-like fellow,—and as the case was out of the jurisdiction of the english magistrates, and as it was not worth while to get him sent over to america for trial, he was forthwith discharged. he stole a comforter.

if mankind were all intellect, they would be continually changing, so that one age would be entirely unlike another. the great conservative is the heart, which remains the same in all ages; so that commonplaces of a thousand years' standing are as effective as ever.

monday, february 20th.—at the police court on saturday, i attended the case of the second mate and four seamen of the john and albert, for assaulting, beating, and stabbing the chief mate. the chief mate has been in the hospital ever since the assault, and was brought into the court to-day to give evidence,—a man of thirty, black hair, black eyes, a dark complexion, disagreeable expression; sallow, emaciated, feeble, apparently in pain, one arm disabled. he sat bent and drawn upward, and had evidently been severely hurt, and was not yet fit to be out of bed. he had some brandy-and-water to enable him to sustain himself. he gave his evidence very clearly, beginning (sailor-like) with telling in what quarter the wind was at the time of the assault, and which sail was taken in. his testimony bore on one man only, at whom he cast a vindictive look; but i think he told the truth as far as he knew and remembered it. of the prisoners the second mate was a mere youth, with long sandy hair, and an intelligent and not unprepossessing face, dressed as neatly as a three or four weeks' captive, with small, or no means, could well allow, in a frock-coat, and with clean linen,—the only linen or cotton shirt in the company. the other four were rude, brutish sailors, in flannel or red-baize shirts. three of them appeared to give themselves little concern; but the fourth, a red-haired and red-bearded man,—paraman, by name,—evidently felt the pressure of the case upon himself. he was the one whom the mate swore to have given him the first blow; and there was other evidence of his having been stabbed with a knife. the captain of the ship, the pilot, the cook, and the steward, all gave their evidence; and the general bearing of it was, that the chief mate had a devilish temper, and had misused the second mate and crew,—that the four seamen had attacked him, and that paraman had stabbed him; while all but the steward concurred in saying that the second mate had taken no part in the affray. the steward, however, swore to having seen him strike the chief mate with a wooden marlinspike, which was broken by the blow. the magistrate dismissed all but paraman, whom i am to send to america for trial. in my opinion the chief mate got pretty nearly what he deserved, under the code of natural justice. while business was going forward, the magistrate, mr. mansfield, talked about a fancy ball at which he had been present the evening before, and of other matters grave and gay. it was very informal; we sat at the table, or stood with our backs to the fire; policemen came and went; witnesses were sworn on the greasiest copy of the gospels i ever saw, polluted by hundreds and thousands of perjured kisses; and for hours the prisoners were kept standing at the foot of the table, interested to the full extent of their capacity, while all others were indifferent. at the close of the case, the police officers and witnesses applied to me about their expenses.

yesterday i took a walk with my wife and two children to bebbington church. a beautifully sunny morning. my wife and u. attended church, j. and i continued our walk. when we were at a little distance from the church, the bells suddenly chimed out with a most cheerful sound, and sunny as the morning. it is a pity we have no chimes of bells, to give the churchward summons, at home. people were standing about the ancient church-porch and among the tombstones. in the course of our walk, we passed many old thatched cottages, built of stone, and with what looked like a cow-house or pigsty at one end, making part of the cottage; also an old stone farm-house, which may have been a residence of gentility in its day. we passed, too, a small methodist chapel, making one of a row of low brick edifices. there was a sound of prayer within. i never saw a more unbeautiful place of worship; and it had not even a separate existence for itself, the adjoining tenement being an alehouse.

the grass along the wayside was green, with a few daisies. there was green holly in the hedges, and we passed through a wood, up some of the tree-trunks of which ran clustering ivy.

february 23d.—there came to see me the other day a young gentleman with a mustache and a blue cloak, who announced himself as william allingham, and handed me a copy of his poems, a thin volume, with paper covers, published by routledge. i thought i remembered hearing his name, but had never seen any of his works. his face was intelligent, dark, pleasing, and not at all john-bullish. he said that he had been employed in the customs in ireland, and was now going to london to live by literature,— to be connected with some newspaper, i imagine. he had been in london before, and was acquainted with some of the principal literary people,— among others, tennyson and carlyle. he seemed to have been on rather intimate terms with tennyson. we talked awhile in my dingy and dusky consulate, and he then took leave. his manners are good, and he appears to possess independence of mind.

yesterday i saw a british regiment march down to george's pier, to embark in the niagara for malta. the troops had nothing very remarkable about them; but the thousands of ragged and squalid wretches, who thronged the pier and streets to gaze on them, were what i had not seen before in such masses. this was the first populace i have beheld; for even the irish, on the other side of the water, acquire a respectability of aspect. john bull is going with his whole heart into the turkish war. he is very foolish. whatever the czar may propose to himself, it is for the interest of democracy that he should not be easily put down. the regiment, on its way to embark, carried the queen's colors, and, side by side with them, the banner of the 28th,—yellow, with the names of the peninsular and other battles in which it had been engaged inscribed on it in a double column. it is a very distinguished regiment; and mr. henry bright mentioned as one of its distinctions, that washington had formerly been an officer in it. i never heard of this.

february 27th.—we walked to woodside in the pleasant forenoon, and thence crossed to liverpool. on our way to woodside, we saw the remains of the old birkenhead priory, built of the common red freestone, much time-worn, with ivy creeping over it, and birds evidently at hone in its old crevices. these ruins are pretty extensive, and seem to be the remains of a quadrangle. a handsome modern church, likewise of the same red freestone, has been built on part of the site occupied by the priory; and the organ was sounding within, while we walked about the premises. on some of the ancient arches, there were grotesquely carved stone faces. the old walls have been sufficiently restored to make them secure, without destroying their venerable aspect. it is a very interesting spot; and so much the more so because a modern town, with its brick and stone houses, its flags and pavements, has sprung up about the ruins, which were new a thousand years ago. the station of the chester railway is within a hundred yards. formerly the monks of this priory kept the only ferry that then existed on the mersey.

at a dinner at mr. bramley moore's a little while ago, we had a prairie-hen from the west of america. it was a very delicate bird, and a gentleman carved it most skilfully to a dozen guests, and had still a second slice to offer to them.

aboard the ferry-boat yesterday, there was a laboring man eating oysters. he took them one by one from his pocket in interminable succession, opened them with his jack-knife, swallowed each one, threw the shell overboard, and then sought for another. having concluded his meal, he took out a clay tobacco-pipe, filled it, lighted it with a match, and smoked it,—all this, while the other passengers were looking at him, and with a perfect coolness and independence, such as no single man can ever feel in america. here a man does not seem to consider what other people will think of his conduct, but only whether it suits his own convenience to do so and so. it may be the better way.

a french military man, a veteran of all napoleon's wars, is now living, with a false leg and arm, both movable by springs, false teeth, a false eye, a silver nose with a flesh-colored covering, and a silver plate replacing part of the skull. he has the cross of the legion of honor.

march 18th.—on saturday i went with mr. b—— to the dingle, a pleasant domain on the banks of the mersey almost opposite to rock ferry. walking home, we looked into mr. thorn's unitarian chapel, mr. b——'s family's place of worship. there is a little graveyard connected with the chapel, a most uninviting and unpicturesque square of ground, perhaps thirty or forty yards across, in the midst of back fronts of city buildings. about half the space was occupied by flat tombstones, level with the ground, the remainder being yet vacant. nevertheless, there were perhaps more names of men generally known to the world on these few tombstones than in any other churchyard in liverpool,—roscoe, blanco white, and the rev. william enfield, whose name has a classical sound in my ears, because, when a little boy, i used to read his "speaker" at school. in the vestry of the chapel there were many books, chiefly old theological works, in ancient print and binding, much mildewed and injured by the damp. the body of the chapel is neat, but plain, and, being not very large, has a kind of social and family aspect, as if the clergyman and his people must needs have intimate relations among themselves. the unitarian sect in liverpool have, as a body, great wealth and respectability.

yesterday i walked with my wife and children to the brow of a hill, overlooking birkenhead and tranmere, and commanding a fine view of the river, and liverpool beyond. all round about new and neat residences for city people are springing up, with fine names,—eldon terrace, rose cottage, belvoir villa, etc., etc., with little patches of ornamented garden or lawn in front, and heaps of curious rock-work, with which the english are ridiculously fond of adorning their front yards. i rather think the middling classes—meaning shopkeepers, and other respectabilities of that level—are better lodged here than in america; and, what i did not expect, the houses are a great deal newer than in our new country! of course, this can only be the case in places circumstanced like liverpool and its suburbs. but, scattered among these modern villas, there are old stone cottages of the rudest structure, and doubtless hundreds of years old, with thatched roofs, into which the grass has rooted itself, and now looks verdant. these cottages are in themselves as ugly as possible, resembling a large kind of pigsty; but often, by dint of the verdure on their thatch and the shrubbery clustering about them, they look picturesque.

the old-fashioned flowers in the gardens of new england—blue-bells, crocuses, primroses, foxglove, and many others—appear to be wild flowers here on english soil. there is something very touching and pretty in this fact, that the puritans should have carried their field and hedge flowers, and nurtured theme in their gardens, until, to us, they seem entirely the product of cultivation.

march 16th.—yesterday, at the coroner's court, attending the inquest on a black sailor who died on board an american vessel, after her arrival at this port. the court-room is capable of accommodating perhaps fifty people, dingy, with a pyramidal skylight above, and a single window on one side, opening into a gloomy back court. a private room, also lighted with a pyramidal skylight, is behind the court-room, into which i was asked, and found the coroner, a gray-headed, grave, intelligent, broad, red-faced man, with an air of some authority, well mannered and dignified, but not exactly a gentleman,—dressed in a blue coat, with a black cravat, showing a shirt-collar above it. considering how many and what a variety of cases of the ugliest death are constantly coming before him, he was much more cheerful than could be expected, and had a kind of formality and orderliness which i suppose balances the exceptionalities with which he has to deal. in the private room with him was likewise the surgeon, who professionally attends the court. we chatted about suicide and such matters,—the surgeon, the coroner, and i,—until the american case was ready, when we adjourned to the court-room, and the coroner began the examination. the american captain was a rude, uncouth down-easter, about thirty years old, and sat on a bench, doubled and bent into an indescribable attitude, out of which he occasionally straightened himself, all the time toying with a ruler, or some such article. the case was one of no interest; the man had been frost-bitten, and died from natural causes, so that no censure was deserved or passed upon the captain. the jury, who had been examining the body, were at first inclined to think that the man had not been frostbitten, but that his feet had been immersed in boiling water; but, on explanation by the surgeon, readily yielded their opinion, and gave the verdict which the coroner put into their mouths, exculpating the captain from all blame. in fact, it is utterly impossible that a jury of chance individuals should not be entirely governed by the judgment of so experienced and weighty a man as the coroner. in the court-room were two or three police officers in uniform, and some other officials, a very few idle spectators, and a few witnesses waiting to be examined. and while the case was going forward, a poor-looking woman came in, and i heard her, in an undertone, telling an attendant of a death that had just occurred. the attendant received the communication in a very quiet and matter-of-course way, said that it should be attended to, and the woman retired.

the diary of a coroner would be a work likely to meet with large popular acceptance. a dark passageway, only a few yards in extent, leads from the liveliest street in liverpool to this coroner's court-room, where all the discussion is about murder and suicide. it seems, that, after a verdict of suicide, the corpse can only be buried at midnight, without religious rites.

"his lines are cast in pleasant places,"—applied to a successful angler.

a woman's chastity consists, like an onion, of a series of coats. you may strip off the outer ones without doing much mischief, perhaps none at all; but you keep taking off one after another, in expectation of coming to the inner nucleus, including the whole value of the matter. it proves however, that there is no such nucleus, and that chastity is diffused through the whole series of coats, is lessened with the removal of each, and vanishes with the final one, which you supposed would introduce you to the hidden pearl.

march 23d.—mr. b. and i took a cab saturday afternoon, and drove out of the city in the direction of knowsley. on our way we saw many gentlemen's or rich people's places, some of them dignified with the title of halls,—with lodges at their gates, and standing considerably removed from the road. the greater part of them were built of brick,—a material with which i have not been accustomed to associate ideas of grandeur; but it was much in use here in lancashire, in the elizabethan age,—more, i think, than now. these suburban residences, however, are of much later date than elizabeth's time. among other places, mr. b. called at the hazels, the residence of sir thomas birch, a kinsman of his. it is a large brick mansion, and has old trees and shrubbery about it, the latter very fine and verdant,—hazels, holly, rhododendron, etc. mr. b. went in, and shortly afterwards sir thomas birch came out,—a very frank and hospitable gentleman,—and pressed me to enter and take luncheon, which latter hospitality i declined.

his house is in very nice order. he had a good many pictures, and, amongst them, a small portrait of his mother, painted by sir thomas lawrence, when a youth. it is unfinished, and when the painter was at the height of his fame, he was asked to finish it. but lawrence, after looking at the picture, refused to retouch it, saying that there was a merit in this early sketch which he could no longer attain. it was really a very beautiful picture of a lovely woman.

sir thomas birch proposed to go with us and get us admittance into knowsley park, where we could not possibly find entrance without his aid. so we went to the stables, where the old groom had already shown hospitality to our cabman, by giving his horse some provender, and himself some beer. there seemed to be a kindly and familiar sort of intercourse between the old servant and the baronet, each of them, i presume, looking on their connection as indissoluble.

the gate-warden of knowsley park was an old woman, who readily gave us admittance at sir thomas birch's request. the family of the earl of derby is not now at the park. it was a very bad time of year to see it; the trees just showing the earliest symptoms of vitality, while whole acres of ground were covered with large, dry, brown ferns,—which i suppose are very beautiful when green. two or three hares scampered out of these ferns, and sat on their hind legs looking about them, as we drove by. a sheet of water had been drawn off, in order to deepen its bed. the oaks did not seem to me so magnificent as they should be in an ancient noble property like this. a century does not accomplish so much for a tree, in this slow region, as it does in ours. i think, however, that they were more individual and picturesque, with more character in their contorted trunks; therein somewhat resembling apple-trees. our forest-trees have a great sameness of character, like our people,— because one and the other grow too closely.

in one part of the park we came to a small tower, for what purpose i know not, unless as an observatory; and near it was a marble statue on a high pedestal. the statue had been long exposed to the weather, and was overgrown and ingrained with moss and lichens, so that its classic beauty was in some sort gothicized. a half-mile or so from this point, we saw the mansion of knowsley, in the midst of a very fine prospect, with a tolerably high ridge of hills in the distance. the house itself is exceedingly vast, a front and two wings, with suites of rooms, i suppose, interminable. the oldest part, sir thomas birch told us, is a tower of the time of henry vii. nevertheless, the effect is not overwhelming, because the edifice looks low in proportion to its great extent over the ground; and besides, a good deal of it is built of brick, with white window-frames, so that, looking at separate parts, i might think them american structures, without the smart addition of green venetian blinds, so universal with us. portions, however, were built of red freestone; and if i had looked at it longer, no doubt i should have admired it more. we merely drove round it from the rear to the front. it stands in my memory rather like a college or a hospital, than as the ancestral residence of a great english noble.

we left the park in another direction, and passed through a part of lord sefton's property, by a private road.

by the by, we saw half a dozen policemen, in their blue coats and embroidered collars, after entering knowsley park; but the earl's own servants would probably have supplied their place, had the family been at home. the mansion of croxteth, the seat of lord sefton, stands near the public road, and, though large, looked of rather narrow compass after knowsley.

the rooks were talking together very loquaciously in the high tops of the trees near sir thomas birch's house, it being now their building-time. it was a very pleasant sound, the noise being comfortably softened by the remote height. sir thomas said that more than half a century ago the rooks used to inhabit another grove of lofty trees, close in front of the house; but being noisy, and not altogether cleanly in their habits, the ladies of the family grew weary of them and wished to remove them. accordingly, the colony was driven away, and made their present settlement in a grove behind the house. ever since that time not a rook has built in the ancient grove; every year, however, one or another pair of young rooks attempt to build among the deserted tree-tops, but the old rooks tear the new nest to pieces as often as it is put together. thus, either the memory of aged individual rooks or an authenticated tradition in their society has preserved the idea that the old grove is forbidden and inauspicious to them.

a soil of general arnold, named william fitch arnold, and born in 1794, now possesses the estate of little messenden abbey, bucks county, and is a magistrate for that county. he was formerly captain of the 19th lancers. he has now two sons and four daughters. the other three sons of general arnold, all older than this one, and all military men, do not appear to have left children; but a daughter married to colonel phipps, of the mulgrave family, has a son and two daughters. i question whether any of our true-hearted revolutionary heroes have left a more prosperous progeny than this arch-traitor. i should like to know their feelings with respect to their ancestor.

april 3d.—i walked with j——-, two days ago, to eastham, a village on the road to chester, and five or six miles from rock ferry. on our way we passed through a village, in the centre of which was a small stone pillar, standing on a pedestal of several steps, on which children were sitting and playing. i take it to have been an old catholic cross; at least, i know not what else it is. it seemed very ancient. eastham is the finest old english village i have seen, with many antique houses, and with altogether a rural and picturesque aspect, unlike anything in america, and yet possessing a familiar look, as if it were something i had dreamed about. there were thatched stone cottages intermixed with houses of a better kind, and likewise a gateway and gravelled walk, that perhaps gave admittance to the squire's mansion. it was not merely one long, wide street, as in most new england villages, but there were several crooked ways, gathering the whole settlement into a pretty small compass. in the midst of it stood a venerable church of the common red freestone, with a most reverend air, considerably smaller than that of bebbington, but more beautiful, and looking quite as old. there was ivy on its spire and elsewhere. it looked very quiet and peaceful, and as if it had received the people into its low arched door every sabbath for many centuries. there were many tombstones about it, some level with the ground, some raised on blocks of stone, on low pillars, moss-grown and weather-worn; and probably these were but the successors of other stones that had quite crumbled away, or been buried by the accumulation of dead men's dust above them. in the centre of the churchyard stood an old yew-tree, with immense trunk, which was all decayed within, so that it is a wonder how the tree retains any life,—which, nevertheless, it does. it was called "the old yew of eastham," six hundred years ago!

after passing through the churchyard, we saw the village inn on the other side. the doors were fastened, but a girl peeped out of the window at us, and let us in, ushering us into a very neat parlor. there was a cheerful fire in the grate, a straw carpet on the floor, a mahogany sideboard, and a mahogany table in the middle of the room; and, on the walls, the portraits of mine host (no doubt) and of his wife and daughters,—a very nice parlor, and looking like what i might have found in a country tavern at home, only this was an ancient house, and there is nothing at home like the glimpse, from the window, of the church, and its red, ivy-grown tower. i ordered some lunch, being waited on by the girl, who was very neat, intelligent, and comely,—and more respectful than a new england maid. as we came out of the inn, some village urchins left their play, and ran to me begging, calling me "master!" they turned at once from play to begging, and, as i gave them nothing, they turned to their play again.

this village is too far from liverpool to have been much injured as yet by the novelty of cockney residences, which have grown up almost everywhere else, so far as i have visited. about a mile from it, however, is the landing-place of a steamer (which runs regularly, except in the winter months), where a large, new hotel is built. the grounds about it are extensive and well wooded. we got some biscuits at the hotel, and i gave the waiter (a splendid gentleman in black) four halfpence, being the surplus of a shilling. he bowed and thanked me very humbly. an american does not easily bring his mind to the small measure of english liberality to servants; if anything is to be given, we are ashamed not to give more, especially to clerical-looking persons, in black suits and white neckcloths.

i stood on the exchange at noon, to-day, to see the 18th regiment, the connaught rangers, marching down to embark for the east. they were a body of young, healthy, and cheerful-looking men, and looked greatly better than the dirty crowd that thronged to gaze at them. the royal banner of england, quartering the lion, the leopard, and the harp, waved on the town-house, and looked gorgeous and venerable. here and there a woman exchanged greetings with an individual soldier, as he marched along, and gentlemen shook hands with officers with whom they happened to be acquainted. being a stranger in the land, it seemed as if i could see the future in the present better than if i had been an englishman; so i questioned with myself how many of these ruddy-cheeked young fellows, marching so stoutly away, would ever tread english ground again. the populace did not evince any enthusiasm, yet there could not possibly be a war to which the country could assent more fully than to this. i somewhat doubt whether the english populace really feels a vital interest in the nation.

some years ago, a piece of rude marble sculpture, representing st. george and the dragon, was found over the fireplace of a cottage near rock ferry, on the road to chester. it was plastered over with pipe-clay, and its existence was unknown to the cottagers, until a lady noticed the projection and asked what it was. it was supposed to have originally adorned the walls of the priory at birkenhead. it measured fourteen and a half by nine inches, in which space were the heads of a king and queen, with uplifted hands, in prayer; their daughters also in prayer, and looking very grim; a lamb, the slain dragon, and st. george, proudly prancing on what looks like a donkey, brandishing a sword over his head.

the following is a legend inscribed on the inner margin of a curious old box:—

"from birkenhead into hilbree

a squirrel might leap from tree to tree."

i do not know where hilbree is; but all round birkenhead a squirrel would scarcely find a single tree to climb upon. all is pavement and brick buildings now.

good friday.—the english and irish think it good to plant on this day, because it was the day when our saviour's body was laid in the grave. seeds, therefore, are certain to rise again.

at dinner the other day, mrs. ——— mentioned the origin of franklin's adoption of the customary civil dress, when going to court as a diplomatist. it was simply that his tailor had disappointed him of his court suit, and he wore his plain one with great reluctance, because he had no other. afterwards, gaining great success and praise by his mishap, he continued to wear it from policy.

the grandmother of mrs. ——— died fifty years ago, at the age of twenty-eight. she had great personal charms, and among them a head of beautiful chestnut hair. after her burial in the family tomb, the coffin of one of her children was laid on her own, so that the lid seems to have decayed, or been broken from this cause; at any rate, this was the case when the tomb was opened about a year ago. the grandmother's coffin was then found to be filled with beautiful, glossy, living chestnut ringlets, into which her whole substance seems to have been transformed, for there was nothing else but these shining curls, the growth of half a century in the tomb. an old man, with a ringlet of his youthful mistress treasured on his heart, might be supposed to witness this wonderful thing.

madam ———, who is now at my house, and very infirm, though not old, was once carried to the grave, and on the point of being buried. it was in barbary, where her husband was consul-general. he was greatly attached to her, and told the pall-bearers at the grave that he must see her once more. when her face was uncovered, he thought he discerned signs of life, and felt a warmth. finally she revived, and for many years afterwards supposed the funeral procession to have been a dream; she having been partially conscious throughout, and having felt the wind blowing on her, and lifting the shroud from her feet,—for i presume she was to be buried in oriental style, without a coffin. long after, in london, when she was speaking of this dream, her husband told her the facts, and she fainted away. whenever it is now mentioned, her face turns white. mr. ———, her son, was born on shipboard, on the coast of spain, and claims four nationalities,—those of spain, england, ireland, and the united states; his father being irish, his mother a native of england, himself a naturalized citizen of the united states, and his father having registered his birth and baptism in a catholic church of gibraltar, which gives him spanish privileges. he has hereditary claims to a spanish countship. his infancy was spent in barbary, and his lips first lisped in arabic. there has been an unsettled and wandering character in his whole life.

the grandfather of madam ———, who was a british officer, once horsewhipped paul jones,—jones being a poltroon. how singular it is that the personal courage of famous warriors should be so often called in question!

may 20th.—i went yesterday to a hospital to take the oath of a mate to a protest. he had met with a severe accident by a fall on shipboard. the hospital is a large edifice of red freestone, with wide, airy passages, resounding with footsteps passing through them. a porter was waiting in the vestibule. mr. wilding and myself were shown to the parlor, in the first instance,—a neat, plainly furnished room, with newspapers and pamphlets lying on the table and sofas. soon the surgeon of the house came,—a brisk, alacritous, civil, cheerful young man, by whom we were shown to the apartment where the mate was lying. as we went through the principal passage, a man was borne along in a chair looking very pale, rather wild, and altogether as if he had just been through great tribulation, and hardly knew as yet whereabouts he was. i noticed that his left arm was but a stump, and seemed done up in red baize,—at all events it was of a scarlet line. the surgeon shook his right hand cheerily, and he was carried on. this was a patient who had just had his arm cut off. he had been a rough person apparently, but now there was a kind of tenderness about him, through pain and helplessness.

in the chamber where the mate lay, there were seven beds, all of them occupied by persons who had met with accidents. in the centre of the room was a stationary pine table, about the length of a man, intended, i suppose, to stretch patients upon for necessary operations. the furniture of the beds was plain and homely. i thought that the faces of the patients all looked remarkably intelligent, though they were evidently men of the lower classes. suffering had educated them morally and intellectually. they gazed curiously at mr. wilding and me, but nobody said a word. in the bed next to the mate lay a little boy with a broken thigh. the surgeon observed that children generally did well with accidents; and this boy certainly looked very bright and cheerful. there was nothing particularly interesting about the mate.

after finishing our business, the surgeon showed us into another room of the surgical ward, likewise devoted to cases of accident and injury. all the beds were occupied, and in two of them lay two american sailors who had recently been stabbed. they had been severely hurt, but were doing very well. the surgeon thought that it was a good arrangement to have several cases together, and that the patients kept up one another's spirits,—being often merry together. smiles and laughter may operate favorably enough from bed to bed; but dying groans, i should think, must be somewhat of a discouragement. nevertheless, the previous habits and modes of life of such people as compose the more numerous class of patients in a hospital must be considered before deciding this matter. it is very possible that their misery likes such bedfellows as it here finds.

as we were taking our leave, the surgeon asked us if we should not like to see the operating-room; and before we could reply he threw open the door, and behold, there was a roll of linen "garments rolled in blood,"— and a bloody fragment of a human arm! the surgeon glanced at me, and smiled kindly, but as if pitying my discomposure.

gervase elwes, son of sir gervase elwes, baronet, of stoke, suffolk, married isabella, daughter of sir thomas hervey, knight, and sister of the first earl of bristol. this gervase died before his father, but left a son, henry, who succeeded to the baronetcy. sir henry died without issue, and was succeeded by his sister's son, john maggott twining, who assumed the name of elwes. he was the famous miser, and must have had hawthorne blood in him, through his grandfather, gervase, whose mother was a hawthorne. it was to this gervase that my ancestor, william hawthorne, devised some land in massachusetts, "if he would come over, and enjoy it." my ancestor calls him his nephew.

june 12th.—barry cornwall, mr. procter, called on me a week or more ago, but i happened not to be in the office. saturday last he called again, and as i had crossed to rock park he followed me thither. a plain, middle-sized, english-looking gentleman, elderly, with short, white hair, and particularly quiet in his manners. he talks in a somewhat low tone without emphasis, scarcely distinct. his head has a good outline, and would look well in marble. i liked him very well. he talked unaffectedly, showing an author's regard to his reputation, and was evidently pleased to hear of his american celebrity. he said that in his younger days he was a scientific pugilist, and once took a journey to have a sparring encounter with the game-chicken. certainly, no one would have looked for a pugilist in this subdued old gentleman. he is now commissioner of lunacy, and makes periodical circuits through the country, attending to the business of his office. he is slightly deaf, and this may be the cause of his unaccented utterance,—owing to his not being able to regulate his voice exactly by his own ear. he is a good man, and much better expressed by his real name, procter, than by his poetical one, barry cornwall. . . . he took my hand in both of his at parting. . . .

june 17th.—at eleven, at this season (and how much longer i know not), there is still a twilight. if we could only have such dry, deliciously warm evenings as we used to have in our own land, what enjoyment there might be in these interminable twilights! but here we close the window-shutters, and make ourselves cosey by a coal-fire.

all three of the children, and, i think, my wife and myself, are going through the hooping-cough. the east-wind of this season and region is most horrible. there have been no really warm days; for though the sunshine is sometimes hot, there is never any diffused heat throughout the air. on passing from the sunshine into the shade, we immediately feel too cool.

june 20th.—the vagabond musicians about town are very numerous. on board the steam ferry-boats, i have heretofore spoken of them. they infest them from may to november, for very little gain apparently. a shilling a day per man must be the utmost of their emolument. it is rather sad to see somewhat respectable old men engaged in this way, with two or three younger associates. their instruments look much the worse for wear, and even my unmusical ear can distinguish more discord than harmony. they appear to be a very quiet and harmless people. sometimes there is a woman playing on a fiddle, while her husband blows a wind instrument. in the streets it is not unusual to find a band of half a dozen performers, who, without any provocation or reason whatever, sound their brazen instruments till the houses re-echo. sometimes one passes a man who stands whistling a tune most unweariably, though i never saw anybody give him anything. the ballad-singers are the strangest, from the total lack of any music in their cracked voices. sometimes you see a space cleared in the street, and a foreigner playing, while a girl— weather-beaten, tanned, and wholly uncomely in face and shabby in attire dances ballets. the common people look on, and never criticise or treat any of these poor devils unkindly or uncivilly; but i do not observe that they give them anything.

a crowd—or, at all events, a moderate-sized group—is much more easily drawn together here than with us. the people have a good deal of idle and momentary curiosity, and are always ready to stop when another person has stopped, so as to see what has attracted his attention. i hardly ever pause to look at a shop-window, without being immediately incommoded by boys and men, who stop likewise, and would forthwith throng the pavement if i did not move on.

june 30th.—if it is not known how and when a man dies, it makes a ghost of him for many years thereafter, perhaps for centuries. king arthur is an example; also the emperor frederic, and other famous men, who were thought to be alive ages after their disappearance. so with private individuals. i had an uncle john, who went a voyage to sea about the beginning of the war of 1812, and has never returned to this hour. but as long as his mother lived, as many as twenty years, she never gave up the hope of his return, and was constantly hearing stories of persons whose description answered to his. some people actually affirmed that they had seen him in various parts of the world. thus, so far as her belief was concerned, he still walked the earth. and even to this day i never see his name, which is no very uncommon one, without thinking that this may be the lost uncle.

thus, too, the french dauphin still exists, or a kind of ghost of him; the three tells, too, in the cavern of uri.

july 6th.—mr. cecil, the other day, was saying that england could produce as fine peaches as any other country. i asked what was the particular excellence of a peach, and he answered, "its cooling and refreshing quality, like that of a melon!" just think of this idea of the richest, most luscious, of all fruits! but the untravelled englishman has no more idea of what fruit is than of what sunshine is; he thinks he has tasted the first and felt the last, but they are both alike watery. i heard a lady in lord street talking about the "broiling sun," when i was almost in a shiver. they keep up their animal heat by means of wine and ale, else they could not bear this climate.

july 19th.—a week ago i made a little tour in north wales with mr. bright. we left birkenhead by railway for chester at two o'clock; thence for bangor; thence by carriage over the menai bridge to beaumaris. at beaumaris, a fine old castle,—quite coming up to my idea of what an old castle should be. a gray, ivy-hung exterior wall, with large round towers at intervals; within this another wall, the place of the portcullis between; and again, within the second wall the castle itself, with a spacious green court-yard in front. the outer wall is so thick that a passage runs in it all round the castle, which covers a space of three acres. this passage gives access to a chapel, still very perfect, and to various apartments in the towers,—all exceedingly dismal, and giving very unpleasant impressions of the way in which the garrison of the castle lived. the main castle is entirely roofless, but the hall and other rooms are pointed out by the guide, and the whole is tapestried with abundant ivy, so that my impression is of gray walls, with here and there a vast green curtain; a carpet of green over the floors of halls and apartments; and festoons around all the outer battlement, with an uneven and rather perilous foot-path running along the top. there is a fine vista through the castle itself, and the two gateways of the two encompassing walls. the passage within the wall is very rude, both underfoot and on each side, with various ascents and descents of rough steps,—sometimes so low that your head is in danger; and dark, except where a little light comes through a loophole or window in the thickness of the wall. in front of the castle a tennis-court was fitted up, by laying a smooth pavement on the ground, and casing the walls with tin or zinc, if i recollect aright. all this was open to the sky; and when we were there, some young men of the town were playing at the game. there are but very few of these tennis-courts in england; and this old castle was a very strange place for one.

the castle is the property of sir richard bulkely, whose seat is in the vicinity, and who owns a great part of the island of anglesea, on which beaumaris lies. the hotel where we stopped was the bulkely arms, and sir richard has a kind of feudal influence in the town.

in the morning we walked along a delightful road, bordering on the menai straits, to bangor ferry. it was really a very pleasant road, overhung by a growth of young wood, exceedingly green and fresh. english trees are green all about their stems, owing to the creeping plants that overrun them. there were some flowers in the hedges, such as we cultivate in gardens. at the ferry, there was a whitewashed cottage; a woman or two, some children, and a fisherman-like personage, walking to and fro before the door. the scenery of the strait is very beautiful and picturesque, and directly opposite to us lay bangor,—the strait being here almost a mile across. an american ship from boston lay in the middle of it. the ferry-boat was just putting off for the bangor side, and, by the aid of a sail, soon neared the shore.

at bangor we went to a handsome hotel, and hired a carriage and two horses for some welsh place, the name of which i forget; neither can i remember a single name of the places through which we posted that day, nor could i spell them if i heard them pronounced, nor pronounce them if i saw them spelt. it was a circuit of about forty miles, bringing us to conway at last. i remember a great slate-quarry; and also that many of the cottages, in the first part of our drive, were built of blocks of slate. the mountains were very bold, thrusting themselves up abruptly in peaks,—not of the dumpling formation, which is somewhat too prevalent among the new england mountains. at one point we saw snowdon, with its bifold summit. we also visited the smaller waterfall (this is a translation of an unpronounceable welsh name), which is the largest in wales. it was a very beautiful rapid, and the guide-book considers it equal in sublimity to niagara. likewise there were one or two lakes which the guide-book greatly admired, but which to me, who remembered a hundred sheets of blue water in new england, seemed nothing more than sullen and dreary puddles, with bare banks, and wholly destitute of beauty. i think they were nowhere more than a hundred yards across. but the hills were certainly very good, and, though generally bare of trees, their outlines thereby were rendered the stronger and more striking.

many of the welsh women, particularly the older ones, wear black beaver hats, high-crowned, and almost precisely like men's. it makes them look ugly and witchlike. welsh is still the prevalent language, and the only one spoken by a great many of the inhabitants. i have had welsh people in my office, on official business, with whom i could not communicate except through an interpreter.

at some unutterable village we went into a little church, where we saw an old stone image of a warrior, lying on his back, with his hands clasped. it was the natural son (if i remember rightly) of david, prince of wales, and was doubtless the better part of a thousand years old. there was likewise a stone coffin of still greater age; some person of rank and renown had mouldered to dust within it, but it was now open and empty. also, there were monumental brasses on the walls, engraved with portraits of a gentleman and lady in the costumes of elizabeth's time. also, on one of the pews, a brass record of some persons who slept in the vault beneath; so that, every sunday, the survivors and descendants kneel and worship directly over their dead ancestors. in the churchyard, on a flat tombstone, there was the representation of a harp. i supposed that it must be the resting-place of a bard; but the inscription was in memory of a merchant, and a skilful manufacturer of harps.

this was a very delightful town. we saw a great many things which it is now too late to describe, the sharpness of the first impression being gone; but i think i can produce something of the sentiment of it hereafter.

we arrived at conway late in the afternoon, to take the rail for chester. i must see conway, with its old gray wall and its unrivalled castle, again. it was better than beaumaris, and i never saw anything more picturesque than the prospect from the castle-wall towards the sea. we reached chester at 10 p. m. the next morning, mr. bright left for liverpool before i was awake. i visited the cathedral, where the organ was sounding, sauntered through the rows, bought some playthings for the children, and left for home soon after twelve.

liverpool, august 8th.—visiting the zoological gardens the other day with j——-, it occurred to me what a fantastic kind of life a person connected with them might be depicted as leading,—a child, for instance. the grounds are very extensive, and include arrangements for all kinds of exhibitions calculated to attract the idle people of a great city. in one enclosure is a bear, who climbs a pole to get cake and gingerbread from the spectators. elsewhere, a circular building, with compartments for lions, wolves, and tigers. in another part of the garden is a colony of monkeys, the skeleton of an elephant, birds of all kinds. swans and various rare water-fowl were swimming on a piece of water, which was green, by the by, and when the fowls dived they stirred up black mud. a stork was parading along the margin, with melancholy strides of its long legs, and came slowly towards us, as if for companionship. in one apartment was an obstreperously noisy society of parrots and macaws, most gorgeous and diversified of hue. these different colonies of birds and beasts were scattered about in various parts of the grounds, so that you came upon them unexpectedly. also, there were archery and shooting-grounds, and a sewing. a theatre, also, at which a rehearsal was going on,—we standing at one of the doors, and looking in towards the dusky stage where the company, in their ordinary dresses, were rehearsing something that had a good deal of dance and action in it. in the open air there was an arrangement of painted scenery representing a wide expanse of mountains, with a city at their feet, and before it the sea, with actual water, and large vessels upon it, the vessels having only the side that would be presented to the spectator. but the scenery was so good that at a first casual glance i almost mistook it for reality. there was a refreshment-room, with drinks and cakes and pastry, but, so far as i saw, no substantial victual. about in the centre of the garden there was an actual, homely-looking, small dwelling-house, where perhaps the overlookers of the place live. now this might be wrought, in an imaginative description, into a pleasant sort of a fool's paradise, where all sorts of unreal delights should cluster round some suitable personage; and it would relieve, in a very odd and effective way, the stern realities of life on the outside of the garden-walls. i saw a little girl, simply dressed, who seemed to have her habitat within the grounds. there was also a daguerreotypist, with his wife and family, carrying on his business in a shanty, and perhaps having his home in its inner room. he seemed to be an honest, intelligent, pleasant young man, and his wife a pleasant woman; and i had j——-'s daguerreotype taken for three shillings, in a little gilded frame. in the description of the garden, the velvet turf, of a charming verdure, and the shrubbery and shadowy walks and large trees, and the slopes and inequalities of ground, must not be forgotten. in one place there was a maze and labyrinth, where a person might wander a long while in the vain endeavor to get out, although all the time looking at the exterior garden, over the low hedges that border the walks of the maze. and this is like the inappreciable difficulties that often beset us in life.

i will see it again before long, and get some additional record of it.

august 10th.—we went to the isle of man, a few weeks ago, where s——- and the children spent a fortnight. i spent two sundays with them.

i never saw anything prettier than the little church of kirk madden there. it stands in a perfect seclusion of shadowy trees,—a plain little church, that would not be at all remarkable in another situation, but is most picturesque in its solitude and bowery environment. the churchyard is quite full and overflowing with graves, and extends down the gentle slope of a hill, with a dark mass of shadow above it. some of the tombstones are flat on the ground, some erect, or laid horizontally on low pillars or masonry. there were no very old dates on any of these stones; for the climate soon effaces inscriptions, and makes a stone of fifty years look as old as one of five hundred,—unless it be slate, or something harder than the usual red freestone. there was an old runic monument, however, near the centre of the churchyard, that had some strange sculpture on it, and an inscription still legible by persons learned in such matters. against the tower of the church, too, there is a circular stone, with carving on it, said to be of immemorial antiquity. there is likewise a tall marble monument, as much as fifty feet high, erected some years ago to the memory of one of the athol family by his brother-officers of a local regiment of which he was colonel. at one of the side-entrances of the church, and forming the threshold within the thickness of the wall, so that the feet of all who enter must tread on it, is a flat tombstone of somebody who felt himself a sinner, no doubt, and desired to be thus trampled upon. the stone is much worn.

the structure is extremely plain inside and very small. on the walls, over the pews, are several monumental sculptures,—a quite elaborate one to a colonel murray, of the coldstreamn guards; his military profession being designated by banners and swords in marble.—another was to a farmer.

on one side of the church-tower there was a little penthouse, or lean-to,—merely a stone roof, about three or four feet high, and supported by a single pillar, beneath which was once deposited the bier.

i have let too much time pass before attempting to record my impressions of the isle of man; but, as regards this church, no description can come up to its quiet beauty, its seclusion, and its every requisite for an english country church.

last sunday i went to eastham, and, entering the churchyard, sat down on a tombstone under the yew-tree which has been known for centuries as the great tree of eastham. some of the village people were sitting on the graves near the door; and an old woman came towards me, and said, in a low, kindly, admonishing tone, that i must not let the sexton see me, because he would not allow any one to be there in sacrament-time. i inquired why she and her companions were there, and she said they were waiting for the sacrament. so i thanked her, gave her a sixpence, and departed. close under the eaves, i saw two upright stones, in memory of two old servants of the stanley family,—one over ninety, and the other over eighty years of age.

august 12th.—j——- and i went to birkenhead park yesterday. there is a large ornamental gateway to the park, and the grounds within are neatly laid out, with borders of shrubbery. there is a sheet of water, with swans and other aquatic fowl, which swim about, and are fed with dainties by the visitors. nothing can be more beautiful than a swan. it is the ideal of a goose,—a goose beautified and beatified. there were not a great many visitors, but some children were dancing on the green, and a few lover-like people straying about. i think the english behave better than the americans at similar places.

there was a camera-obscure, very wretchedly indistinct. at the refreshment-room were ginger-beer and british wines.

august 21st.—i was in the crown court on saturday, sitting in the sheriff's seat. the judge was baron ———, an old gentleman of sixty, with very large, long features. his wig helped him to look like some strange kind of animal,—very queer, but yet with a sagacious, and, on the whole, beneficent aspect. during the session some mischievous young barrister occupied himself with sketching the judge in pencil; and, being handed about, it found its way to me. it was very like and very laughable, but hardly caricatured. the judicial wig is an exceedingly odd affair; and as it covers both ears, it would seem intended to prevent his lordship, and justice in his person, from hearing any of the case on either side, that thereby he may decide the better. it is like the old idea of blindfolding the statue of justice.

it seems to me there is less formality, less distance between the judge, jury, witnesses, and bar, in the english courts than in our own. the judge takes a very active part in the trial, constantly asking a question of the witness on the stand, making remarks on the conduct of the trial, putting in his word on all occasions, and allowing his own sense of the matter in hand to be pretty plainly seen; so that, before the trial is over, and long before his own charge is delivered, he must have exercised a very powerful influence over the minds of the jury. all this is done, not without dignity, yet in a familiar kind of way. it is a sort of paternal supervision of the whole matter, quite unlike the cold awfulness of an american judge. but all this may be owing partly to the personal characteristics of baron ———. it appeared to me, however, that, from the closer relations of all parties, truth was likely to be arrived at and justice to be done. as an innocent man, i should not be afraid to be tried by baron ———.