now that the time of my departure drew near, the same old feeling of reluctance to leave a place to which i had become accustomed came upon me with its usual force. possibly because i was never very long in one place, i have always, except in one instance, felt loth to begin wandering again; and, even now, my mind often turns regretfully to the many ports i have visited, and quite a painful longing seizes me to see them all again. therefore i am afraid i did not feel nearly as grateful to my friend as i ought to have done; but, fully realizing how dangerous it was for me not to take advantage of this offer, i made myself as presentable as i could and hurried on board. the captain, a big, burly gentleman in a smart uniform, received me with a sharp glance, and dismissed me at once with a curt "all right; go and tell the chief steward i've sent you to him." i thanked him, and left the presence, very much in awe of the gorgeous surroundings and great size of everything, so different to all my previous experience of shipboard. she was a fairly large steamship for those days, i suppose of nearly three thousand tons; but to me she was vast beyond conception. when i entered the saloon, i felt utterly crushed beneath the splendour of the place—oh, how small and shabby it would look now, beside the floating palaces of to-day!—and i hardly dared to tread upon the thick carpet which was laid, the vessel being in harbour. when i found the chief steward, he cross-examined me pretty sharply as to my qualifications, etc.; but, being short-handed, he was glad of even such help as i could give, and promptly set me to work. now, for the first time, i became acquainted with the toilsome routine of housemaid's duties which have to be performed by the steward's staff of a passenger steamer: endless dish-washing, knife and silver-cleaning, floor-scrubbing, and metal-polishing. and all the work had to be done by a staff of four, exclusive of my insignificant self; so that the chief steward had no time to play the gentleman at large that he so often appears where the manning is on a more liberal scale. indeed, but for the second steward—a dapper chinese, rejoicing in the most unappropriate name of "hadji"—i don't think we could ever have kept things straight. but hadji was a host in himself. never in a hurry, always looking well-groomed and smart, the amount of work that this wonderful little man got through in a day was marvellous. not more so, however, than his history, of which one episode will suffice as a sample. while working on board a large steamer of this same employ lying in colon, there was a terrific explosion on board—whether of gunpowder or nitro-glycerine i have forgotten. men, decks, fittings, were hurled skyward amidst a vast cloud of smoke, and the fragments fell in an immense area, extending for hundreds of yards around the unfortunate ship. when the first alarm had subsided, the stewards of an adjacent vessel returned to their tasks below, and found hadji on the saloon table, having crashed through the skylight in his descent, but unhurt, and apparently unaffrighted. it was not easy to imagine what would disturb his smiling sang-froid. if in a gale of wind a heavy sea found its way below, causing the utmost hubbub and terror among the passengers, whether by night or day, hadji would appear in the thick of the mêlée, calmly setting everything and everybody to rights, his pleasant smile most reassuring to behold.

but, in my admiration for this invaluable celestial, i am forgetting current events. the day we were to sail, i was much astonished to see all my old shipmates march on board, having been sent by the shipping-master for a passage to england in his anxiety to avoid another interview with the offended powers. they were passengers in the sense that no work was expected of them; but they lived and messed with the crew. however, as we were at different ends of the ship, we did not come in contact at all, for which i was grateful. yet, strangely enough, i got into my first and only scrape on board through them. the waste of food from the saloon table was very great; but my instructions were to throw all broken meats into a "dog-basket" at washing-up time, with all sorts of dirty odds and ends, which basket was presently emptied over the side. i managed to obtain a clean basket, into which i turned all such broken victuals as i considered worth saving, and, watching my opportunity, i carried this provender forward to my shipmates, who i knew were getting only the usual miserable fare. in this benevolent work i was discovered by the chief steward, who "clouted my ear," as he termed it, and threatened me with all sorts of pains and penalties if i dared to so offend again. so from thenceforth all the good food not wanted aft went overboard as before.

we were bound to liverpool via port-au-prince, in the island of hayti, and, from a few words let fall by the passengers, i gathered that it was just possible we might see some "fun," as they termed it. i did not then know that hayti was in the throes of a successful revolution against the sovereignty of spain and france, which eventually resulted in the establishment of two republics in the island; one-half calling itself the republic of hayti, the other that of st. domingo. at that time the long struggle must have been drawing near its close, for on land the triumphant negroes had things all their own way, while at sea the fleets of france and spain played at what they were pleased to call a blockade. whether any vessels trading with hayti paid any attention to the alleged blockade, i do not know; certainly we did not. nothing at all in our proceedings would have suggested to any one that we were making for a blockaded port. even when, as we steamed briskly up the long v-shaped gulf, at the apex of which port-au-prince lies, we sighted two grimlooking war-ships lying at anchor on either side of the fairway with steam up, no more notice was taken of them than the usual curiosity evinced by passengers at a strange sail. as we passed between them we could see that one was french, the other spanish, by their ensigns flying. we rendered the usual sea-courtesy of dipping our flag, but of that no notice at all was taken by them. doubtless, as usual, they felt none too amicably disposed towards the all-pervading anglais. right onward we steamed into the harbour, and alongside the company's hulk, where such scant cargo as could be collected awaited us. the only other vessel lying there was a long, low steamer of perhaps 700 or 800 tons, whose raking, schooner-spars and funnel, and the light grey-blue that everything was painted, to say nothing of the miniature stars and stripes that floated from her flag-staff, spelt "yankee filibuster" as plainly as if she had been lettered with those words in characters two feet wide. there was no sign of life on board of her, except a mere suggestion of bluish smoke, that curled slowly from her funnel, telling of banked fires below. for some time she was an object of the greatest interest to all on board, until other matters occupied all our attention.

the town was in a pitiable condition. what with the long rebellion and civil broils, in addition to the careless, happy-go-lucky fashion in which the farce of government was carried on, whole streets were in ruins; business was at a standstill, and even the few merchants who still clung to the remnants of their trade were in despair. it was no place for white men, anyhow. the negro was master of the situation. he had fought long and savagely for his independence, and now that he had got it he was drunken with it as with brandy. that careless white man who omitted, from any cause, to salute in the humblest manner any functionary of the government of the hour, however ludicrous in appearance, speedily found himself in serious trouble, out of which he did not easily extricate himself. and since new officials were constantly emerging from the rag-tag and bob-tail, the only wise course was to salute every black man, no matter how menial his capacity might be. one never knew whether the road-mender of to-day might not be a general of division to-morrow, having power of life and death even while wanting a decent pair of trousers.

a party of our fellows were allowed to go ashore, by a serious error of judgment, and, as they strolled carelessly along one of the principal thoroughfares, they met a company of soldiers so scarecrow-like that they simply stood and roared with laughter. this had been crime enough, but the sailor-men must needs aggravate their offence. the officer in command, swelling with rage, demanded their salute. instead of complying they indulged in some ribaldry, in which his get-up, as well as that of his ragged regiment, was held up to ridicule in effective fashion. this behaviour could not be tolerated. they were surrounded, overpowered, and dragged off to the "calabozo." then, when they saw what their folly had led them into, they repented sorely. it had been worth any amount of "ko-tow" to have escaped from such a fate as now befell them. the lock-up was apparently an ancient cow-byre, standing like an island in a lake of sewage, which, under that blazing sun, sent up a steam of putridity into the heavy air. through this foul morass they were dragged with every indignity their exulting captors could devise, and there, more dead than alive, they were left for twenty-four hours, when the captain managed to overcome the stubborn attitude of the sable authorities, and induce them to accept a substantial fine. when they were released and brought on board they looked like resuscitated corpses, and every article of clothing they wore had to be flung overboard. the doctor examined them with gathering anxiety upon his face, but his only comment was "the sooner we're out of this hell-hole the better."

fortunately we were to sail in the morning, for every one was feverishly anxious to be gone. that evening a passenger embarked, who came alongside in a canoe paddled by two negroes, bringing with him several weighty chests. he was a well-dressed black man, with an air of nervous anxiety; and he hovered around, while his baggage was being hoisted on board, as if he dared not trust it out of his sight. when it was all safely embarked and carried below, to a muttered accompaniment of growls at its weight, the canoe and its sable crew disappeared into the darkness, while the passenger also hid himself, and rarely appeared thenceforward.

at daybreak all hands were astir, the firemen working like sooty gnomes down in their gloomy pit to get steam up, while dense volumes of smoke poured from our funnels, gladdening the eyes of all hands. amidst the universal activity we yet found time to notice that the thin coronal of vapour hovering above the smoke-stack of the filibuster was also getting more palpable, and the knowing ones winked at each other meaningly. at last a hissing from our steam-pipe betokened full pressure in the boilers, the "old man" mounted the bridge, and all hands took their stations. "cast off fore and aft!" shouted the skipper. willing hands released the heavy hawsers from the bitts, and, with a rattle of steam-winches and cheerful yells from the crew, we moved slowly away from the hulk, the ensign and "house-flag" being run up at the same time. then, to our breathless amazement, the filibuster, apparently of her own accord, stole from her position and came gently alongside, a tall, romantic-looking figure mounting her bridge as she did so. so close did she come that the figure on the bridge was able to step nimbly on board of us. he was a spare, elegantly-built man, dressed in a well-fitting suit of grey silk, with an immense white panama sombrero on his head. he was strikingly handsome, having a dark, oval face, with a heavy black moustache and velasquez beard, while his black, brilliant eyes, wide set, seemed to take in everything at a glance. shaking hands cordially with our captain, he said a few words inaudible on deck; then the pair descended from the bridge, and, joined by the mate, entered the chart-room. they remained there for a couple of minutes with the door closed, and then, coming out again, the yankee leapt on board his own vessel, while our two officers took their stations—the captain on the bridge and the mate forward. our engine-room bell clanged the order, "full speed ahead," and, as the engines responded, our good ship vibrated from stem to stern under their impulse. without any apparent effort the yankee kept her place by our side, not a soul visible on board, except the tall figure lolling calmly on the bridge, meditatively puffing at a big cigar.

the decks being cleared, there was, for a brief space, nothing to do; so all hands, including passengers, crowded the rails, watching with breathless interest the two war-ships which lay in grim silence where they were when we entered the harbour. not a word was spoken, and the clanging chorus of the massive machinery below seemed many times louder than we had ever heard it before. the scene was sufficiently impressive to fix itself permanently in the memory of every one on board. there was not a breath of wind, the water of the widening gulf lying like another sky before us, tinted in innumerable shades by the floating clouds and the richly-coloured hills on either hand. every thrust of the pistons drove us nearer those two surly sentinels laden with potential destruction, which we all well knew might, at any moment, be let loose upon us. but there was much comfort in an occasional glance at the splendid old red ensign flying gallantly overhead, for everybody on board felt how much might and majesty it represented. nearer and nearer we drew to the point midway between the war-ships, that now began to show a thickening cloud of smoke at their funnels, and a white feather of escaping steam. at last we were fairly between them. suddenly the silent yankee alongside straightened himself, made us a sweeping bow, and said, "a thousand thanks, captain. farewell, ladies and gentlemen, and a pleasant passage. g'lang ahead!" at his word a gong boomed below, and the lithe vessel sprang forward like an unleashed greyhound, the pitchy fumes from her funnel filling the clean air with the stench of burning petroleum. boom! boom! went two big guns from the men-of-war as they both started in chase, while from the filibuster's masthead the flag dipped as if in ironical courtesy. many shots were fired after the daring craft; but although the fountains cast up by the massive shot apparently played all around her, none actually reached her. and as she certainly steamed nearly two knots to their one, she was soon hopelessly out of range. recognising this, they gave up the chase. i suppose, according to the rules of romance, they should now have intercepted us; but this is fact, not fiction, and so it must be admitted that they paid not the slightest attention to us, but returned to their old position. despite our good rate of speed, in less than four hours there was nothing visible of our protégé but a long grimy streak in the bright blue sky.

under ordinary circumstances such an adventure would have afforded an inexhaustible topic of conversation during the remainder of the passage, but unhappily, a much more serious matter soon claimed everybody's attention. those truly awful words, "yellow fever," began to circulate in terrified whispers, while the merry, genial doctor's face looked terribly solemn. there was little suspense. the very next day the first victim died—one of the men who had spent the night in that unspeakably filthy calabozo at port-au-prince. ordinary prudence forbade any delay in disposing of the poor remains. in less than an hour after death came the solemn little meeting, the bare-headed group at the gangway, the long white bundle on a hatch at an open port, the halting, diffident reading of the old sublime service, and then the hoarse s-s-s-s-h, and the sullen plunge into unknown depths.

the destroyer made such strides that a large tent had to be rigged over the main hatch as an open-air hospital, and there the brave, unwearying doctor laboured day and night at his hopeless task. there was no discrimination, except as far as the passengers were concerned—perhaps because they were better seasoned to the climate. at any rate none of them were attacked; but of the ship's company, officers, engineers, firemen, sailors, and stewards all gave tithe to death. the disease was terribly swift in its operation. one friday morning our bo'sun's mate, a huge, hirsute irishman, suddenly complained of his head. this was at eight a.m. at ten a.m. he was in the hospital grinding his teeth in delirium. a few minutes after everybody on deck was terrified at the apparition of a mother-naked giant, armed with the cook's axe, which he had snatched from beside the galley door, rushing madly about the decks. not many seconds elapsed before he was alone, striking furiously at everything in his way, while the foam flew from his gaping mouth. having made the round of the deck aft, he came to the weather side of the wheel-house, within which the quarter-master was calmly steering quite unconscious of what was happening. suddenly the maniac caught sight of him through the side window, and immediately rained a torrent of tremendous blows upon the stout teak door. poor teddy fled out of the lee door, and up into the main rigging just as carney burst in. then all was quiet. after a while some one was courageous enough to creep along and peer in. there was carney, lying at full length on the grating, having fallen upon the upturned edge of the axe, which had sunk deep enough into his chest to have let out a dozen lives. the place was like a slaughter-house. that afternoon one reading of the service sufficed for three burials, two more men having died while the maniac had possession of the deck.

naturally there was little levity on board. cooped up with such an awful scourge none felt inclined for merriment. but the ordinary routine of work went on without a hitch. my shipmates were set to work on full wages to supply the places of the dead, and, although they did not relish doing firemen's duty, they were not sorry to have the prospect of a little money when they reached home, supposing they were still alive. my turn came. one morning at five o'clock, when, as usual, i was called to begin my day's work, i lifted my head to rise, but it fell again like a piece of lead. a feeling of utter helplessness had seized my whole body, although i could not say i felt ill. but not even the awe in which i stood of the chief steward could overcome my want of strength, and i humbly said, "i'm not able to get up, sir." instantly alarmed, the steward fetched the doctor, who, after feeling my pulse, etc., pulled me out of the bunk, and set me on my trembling legs, telling the steward to put me to some work that did not require any running about, but on no account to allow me to sit down. his orders were strictly obeyed, but how i got through that dreadful day i cannot tell. i felt as if i would gladly have given the whole world to be allowed to lay down for a little while, and several times my legs doubled up under me, letting me sink in a heap on the pantry deck, but there was no respite allowed me. this stern treatment was completely successful, for by supper-time i felt quite strong again, and i was troubled no more by any recurrence of those alarming symptoms. what was the matter with me, i never knew; but undoubtedly i owed my life to the doctor's wisdom, much as i hated his treatment at the time. day after day dragged on, each bringing with it a death for some one of our diminishing number, while the doctor, worn almost to a shadow, still battled with the enemy with unabated vigour. his chief task was with those who had won through the crisis, to nurse them back to strength again. beef-tea with brandy was his sheet anchor, and this potent reviver he was continually administering in tiny doses, while commenting cheerily on its marvellous virtues, to his wasted patients. then, as if to fill up our cup of misfortunes, the engines suddenly stopped. the boilers were old—in fact, too old for safe use—and one of them had sprung a dangerous leak. the engineers attacked the trouble with that stolid heroism for which their class is famous, although, from its prosaic nature, little is thought or said about it by a world that loves its heroes to glitter with pomp and circumstance, and to do their great deeds upon some conspicuous stage. down beneath the boilers, where the narrow limits compelled them to lie at full length, half roasted by the fierce heat, and scalded from head to heel by the spurtings of boiling water, they laboured with hardly a pause for a day and a night. they succeeded in the almost incredible task of patching up the leaky source of our speed, doing moreover their work so well that, although our rate of going was greatly reduced, the repairs held good until we reached port.

the joyful day arrived at last when the faithful doctor was able to announce that the yellow fever had left us, and that, unless some of the convalescents died of weakness, there would be no more deaths from that scourge. it was high time. in the short period of twenty days we had buried thirty men, every one of whose deaths was distinctly traceable to that foul den in port-au-prince. happily the weather held fine, and the wind held to the south-west, so that we were able to help her along with the sails, until one morning a thrill of delight ran through the ship at the sight of green water alongside, sure sign of our nearness to the channel. presently that solitary sentinel, the fastnet, hove in sight, and soon behind it we saw the green hills of ireland. all our miseries were now forgotten, and there was a general air of joyful expectation mixed with deep thankfulness that we had been spared. that afternoon our negro passenger, whom we had hardly seen during the passage, made his appearance on deck. he was evidently seeking the captain, for, as soon as he caught sight of him, he hastened towards him and the two went straight into the captain's state-room. from thence there soon issued strange noises as of a foreigner under strong excitement, while now and then the deep tones of the skipper chimed in as if he were speaking soothingly. suddenly the door was flung open and the captain called for the mate. that officer responded promptly, but did not succeed in hushing the din. on the contrary, the shrill voice of the black man rose higher than ever, until he was fairly yelling with fury. the mate blew his whistle, and, when the bo'sun appeared in answer to it, he received an order to bring the carpenter with a pair of irons and three or four men. the reinforcements manhandled the excited negro, hauling him with scant ceremony on deck, and bundling him forward into an empty cabin, wherein they locked him and left him to his own reflections. this mysterious affair caused much excitement among both passengers and crew, but it was not until after the vessel had been in dock some days that any explanation was forthcoming. it appeared that, according to hisstory, the negro had been first lord of the treasury, or whatever grandiloquent title they had bestowed upon their keeper of the funds, and, seizing a favourable opportunity, he had levanted with quite a large sum (he said $100,000). getting safely on board he had committed his loot to the care of the captain and mate, who, however, most unaccountably forgot all about it when he claimed it coming up channel. finding that he could by no means recall it to their memories, he went temporarily mad—insane enough, at any rate, to institute proceedings against them for its recovery. his story, which i have given above (with the exception of the way in which he obtained his wealth), was simply laughed at, and he was fain to revert to his original profession of scullion or some such occupation.

the passage up channel was uneventful. the hateful yellow flag (quarantine) was hoisted as we entered the mersey; but, as soon as the health officer boarded us, we learned that there would be no delay in docking, yellow fever being innocuous in our favoured land. so the dock gates swung wide and we passed in to our berth, the vessel being in two hours deserted by everybody except the night watchman and me.