the hotel to which we had been brought upon our arrival was, although the only one in the place, far too small to stand the strain of such an influx of visitors as we were, as far as sleeping accommodation went. therefore arrangements were made for our lodgment in an empty house in town, while for all meals we were to return to the hotel. to this sheltering place we were escorted by a delighted band of darkies, who insisted upon carrying such traps as we possessed, and also worked like bees to sweep and cleanse the house. such bedding as we had was spread upon the floor in a big front-room, and in oriental fashion; with the sailor's ready adaptability to circumstances, we made ourselves comfortable. we had plenty of company, for the whole coloured population made holiday and visited us. few came empty handed, the majority bringing such gifts as they thought would please us: mostly fruit, tobacco, and rum. there was such abundance of the latter, that by dinner-time there was a universal debauch, from which i gladly escaped. making my way down to the beach i found the work of salvage in full swing, for the hull of the ship had broken apart so much that the floatable cargo was coming ashore in great quantities. puncheons of rum, bundles of walking-sticks, cakes of bees-wax and innumerable cocoa-nuts were heaped in scattered piles upon the beach, each of which was guarded by some one, whose allies were either scouring the shores or paddling furiously after some piece of flotsam apparently worth pursuit. everywhere i found friends. such a godsend as this had not fallen to the lot of the dusky falmouthians before, and they were willing to recognise even the humblest member of the crew as in some sense a benefactor. when i got tired of roaming about the beach, i sought the hotel for something more satisfying than fruit, and was received by the host's buxom daughter, marian, with great delight. she had taken charge of my hatful of kittens, and showed me, with manifest pride, how comfortable the old cat and her blind progeny had been made. ungrateful puss would hardly recognise me, her changed circumstances had made her forget old but humble friends.

noticing that i limped considerably, marian inquired anxiously whether i had cut my foot, which made me smile, since, not having worn boots for months, my natural soles were almost as hard as tanned leather. but i admitted that there was something hurting me a great deal, upon which she peremptorily ordered me to sit down while she had a look. a short search resulted in her finding the place, which she proceeded to investigate with a needle, and presently drew therefrom a bag about as large as a marrowfat pea, which she opened, and showed me was full of tiny eggs. "you'se had dem chigoes mighty bad, chile," she said, "but i gwineter put stop to 'em right now." with that she went and fetched a tub of warm water. after bathing my feet thoroughly, she searched most carefully for more of these pests, finding two other nests, full like the first, of eggs, but which had caused me only a slight itching sensation. having removed all she could see, she made a vile compound of tobacco-ash and kerosene, which she rubbed into the wounds, causing me exquisite pain. it took all my fortitude to keep from screaming, and i was unable to prevent a few big tears dropping. with many strange words of endearment she assured me of her sympathy, but declared this heroic treatment to be the only way of effecting a radical cure. i have no doubt that she firmly believed in her treatment, and i must admit that in the end it was certainly effectual; but it was so harsh that i was quite crippled for over a week. during this miserable time i was a close prisoner in our empty house, being generally alone during the day, while through most of the night the drunken antics of my shipmates kept me in constant terror. nevertheless there was some slight consolation, for by some means it had got about that i could sing, and i was sent for by the officers of the garrison to warble some of my simple ditties for their amusement. as i was unable to walk, the messengers made a rude litter, upon which they carried me to the hotel, where i was propped up in an armchair while i sang. the generosity of the officers provided me with plenty of money, unfortunately of no service to me, since i dared not refuse the constant demands of my shipmates, who, of course, had none of their own. i made two or three friends among the better-class people in the town, who gave me quite a respectable bag of half-worn clothes, and also promised their aid in other directions.

at last, after the lapse of three weeks, during which time a perfunctory sort of inquiry into the loss of the vessel was held, and the captain acquitted of all blame, it was decided to send all the crew round to kingston, whence we might get shipped home. a small schooner was chartered for this purpose, as no steamers ran round the island; and after considerable delay, provisions for three days were put on board, and we set sail, doubtless much to the relief of those worthies who had been obliged to feed such a hungry horde as we were. but, to our great disgust, we found at the first meal-time that, in addition to the stock of food being disgracefully small, it consisted solely of ship-biscuit, yams, and salt beef of the worst sort. if the kind providers of this outfit could have been affected by the maledictions of our party, they certainly would not have survived the first day of our voyage; after that, the subject dropped from very monotony. calms and light airs prevailed, and all faces began to lengthen when, on the evening of the third day, the cook announced that the last of the supply of food was before us for supper, while our passage was only beginning. luckily a young shark was caught, making us a meagre[pg 130] breakfast. then hunger stared us in the face. we were at least fifteen miles off the land, with a dead calm, and nothing but water left to supply the needs of fourteen hungry men. no fish came to our hooks, no vessels came near us, and, as there was nothing whatever to occupy the men's minds, the subject of food-supply was soon discussed threadbare. then, as often happens among crews similarly situated, the possibility of there being a jonah among us was mooted, and called forth an amazing variety of opinions and reminiscences. unhappily for me, the bo'sun was indiscreet enough to let out the story of my behaviour at the time of the vessel's striking on the reef. he told it laughingly, referring, with a good deal of satisfaction, to the swinging kick he had dealt me, the bruise from which had not even then disappeared. but the effect of his statement upon those ignorant and frightened men was most strange and significant. they accepted it without question as positive proof: first, that all their misfortunes were due to the presence of a jonah among them, and, secondly, that i was that jonah!

it may be found difficult of belief that, among the crew of a london ship in the year 1871, such a thing should have been possible; but i solemnly declare it to be true that they at once decided that unless i were cast overboard they would never reach kingston. i was immediately seized by them and commanded to say my prayers quickly, as i had only a few minutes to live. i looked at those cruel, brutish faces and saw no gleam of pity; i cried for mercy in incoherent terms while they[pg 131] only scowled. with trembling lips, and scarcely beating heart, i tried to do as they told me—say my prayers; but my senses were fast leaving me, and i do not really know what i did say. then one of them tied my hands behind my back with a bit of fishing-line; and this act first seemed to awaken the three negroes, who were the crew of the schooner, to the fact that murder was intended. it almost drove them crazy with fear and horror. regardless of the odds against them, they rushed to my rescue, only to be beaten back with the assurance that little would make my tormenters serve them the same. the bitterness of death was almost past, when, to my unbounded amazement, and renewing all my hopes of life, help came from the most unexpected quarter. the bo'sun, who, i do not think, had realized himself how far in earnest they were until then, suddenly bestirred himself, making one stride across the deck to where i lay, hardly conscious. oh, how god-like i thought him! the scene returns to me across the chasm of years as vividly as a photograph. his manly figure, erect before my poor little shrinking body, and the sweep of his strong right arm as he drove those bloodthirsty pagans back, will never fade from my mind. "that's enough now," he said, "ye —— idiots. did ye think i was goin' ter let yer drown the kid? s'elp me, ef i thought yer really meant it, damfi wouldn't drown two or three of ye meself, ye yelpin' cowardly scum!" for a short minute or so they faced him, their eyes glaring with the lust of superstitious cruelty, and then (it should be remembered that there were ten of them) they slank away, muttering blasphemies between their clenched teeth. with a bitter laugh of derision he stooped and cut my hands adrift from the lashing, and then resumed his pipe as if nothing extraordinary had happened. it hardly needs saying that i cowered close to his side, nor did i once get out of arm's length of him during the remainder of that passage.

happily for us a breeze sprang up, sending the schooner bustling along at a good rate into the harbour of savannah le mar, where we arrived late that evening. by some means or other, which i don't understand, considering our penniless condition, a good supply of yams, salt fish, and water was obtained, and we set sail again at about ten p. m. by the light of the incandescent moon. our troubles were at an end for the time, the wind holding strong and fair; so that in less than forty-eight hours we were running in swiftly past port royal and up to the wharves at kingston.

it probably had never occurred to any one of us to doubt that when we arrived there it would be all plain sailing for us. as shipwrecked seamen, and in a british port, we naturally supposed that all we needed to do was to march in a body to the sailors' home, show our credentials, and be received with the warmest of welcomes. and the rest of our stay, until ships were found for us to go home again in, would, of course, be one delightful round of eating, drinking, and sleeping, varied by such amusements as the place afforded. accordingly, every man shouldered his belongings, and off we marched, guided by friendly darkies, to the sailors' home, which we entered with the air of proprietors. it was a fine, large building, with a double row of verandahs and an air of coolness and comfort extremely grateful to us after our miserable trip in the schooner. we were received with great courtesy, and shown to the dormitory, which, with its rows of clean beds and white mosquito-curtains, looked like fairyland. we were told that breakfast would be ready in a few minutes; so all hands had a good wash, hastening down grubwards at the first stroke of the welcome bell. there appeared to be scarcely any other boarders; at any rate, there were none visible then. coffee and bread were brought, and then a white man came, who introduced himself as the superintendent. he called our attention to the fact that there were three tariffs here, according to the kind of food desired, and wished to know which of them we would choose. the bo'sun replied that, as we were the guests of our country, we might as well have the best, and added that, as we were somewhat sharp-set, the sooner we got it the happier we should be. "oh," said the official; "if that's the case, i'm afraid i can't take you in. i've had no orders; and our rule here is payment in advance." blank amazement overspread every face, and half a dozen voices volubly attempted to explain the situation. but to all remarks, remonstrances, and objurgations, the superintendent was adamant. he had no doubt it was all true enough; but he had no instructions on our behalf, and, until he had, we could either pay or go. when asked who we ought to apply to, he was blandly ignorant; but it was increasingly evident that he wanted us gone very badly.

well, there was no help for it, and so, breakfastless and dispirited, we started off again to the town, intending to go to the shipping-office, as the only place we could think of. in a foreign port we should, of course, have gone to the consul at once; but here, under our own flag, no one knew what to do. our escort of negroes grew quite imposing as we trudged along, and the news of our reception passed from mouth to mouth. floods of advice were poured upon us by our sable friends, and offers of hospitality also without limit. indeed, had any of our crowd been orators, there seemed to be all the materials necessary for a very decent riot. but, peaceably enough, we reached the shipping-office, where we asked humbly if we might see his high-mightiness the shipping-master. after keeping us waiting for nearly an hour, this gentleman came out, and in bullying tones demanded our business. our spokesman, the bo'sun, laid our hard case before him in a most respectful manner; but before he had finished his story the shipping-master cut him short, roughly telling him that we had no business to come there whining, and that he had nothing to do with us. and with that he ordered us out of the office. utterly amazed and dispirited at this treatment, we retired. upon reaching the street we were surrounded at once by the friendly darkies, who made good their previous promises by carrying all hands off to breakfast in their several huts, talking and gesticulating violently all the time. fortunately i remembered that i had a letter of introduction to a gentleman in the town; so, refusing all offers of hospitality, i hurried off to present it. i was not very cordially received; but a note to the superintendent of the sailors' home was at once given me, which procured me instant admission to that institution, with a right to the best entertainment they could give.

meanwhile the crew had formulated a plan of campaign, romantic enough, but promising well. it should be remembered that port royal, at the entrance to kingston harbour is, or was, one of our most important colonial naval stations. a huge old line-of-battle ship, called the aboukir, was then the guard-ship, and lay moored opposite the dockyard at port royal, several miles from kingston. a deputation of two, one of which was the bo'sun, determined to board the guard-ship and lay the case before the commodore, feeling, like all british seamen abroad, that, although not to be lightly approached, the captain of a british man-o'-war could always be depended upon to see justice done to any sailor, however humble. accordingly, they availed themselves of a friendly fisherman's canoe, and immediately set out on their long paddle down the bay to port royal. at the same time the elderly irishman before spoken of, volunteered to tramp out to spanish town, the residence of the governor of jamaica—a distance of about ten miles, as nearly as i can remember. he said he was well used to the road, having tramped between nearly every seaport in england. and so, while the majority of the crew lay around in the shade discussing the situation over and over again with a deeply interested crowd of darkies, male and female, the messenger fared forth. the port royal deputation reached their goal first, and, climbing up the steep side of the great guard-ship, saluted, and asked to see the commodore. they were promptly conducted aft before this officer, who listened patiently to their yarn, and did not interrupt them in its recital. when they ceased speaking, he said, "is that all, my men?" "yes, yer honour." "then go forward and get some food at once, and, when you have done so, the second lieutenant will return with you. you shall be cared for. good morning." with a salute they retreated, and, not being hungry, received a tot of grog instead. then, to their astonishment and delight, they saw a natty little steam-launch alongside, into which they were invited to descend. a smart young lieutenant in full uniform joined them, the white-clad crew jumped in, and away they went back to kingston. long before they arrived at the landing-place the anxious watchers had descried them, and, when they touched land, there was quite an excited crowd ready to welcome them. straight to the shipping-office went the lieutenant, and at his brief request the shipping-master was immediately forthcoming. without wasting a word the lieutenant came to the point, demanding to know whether his commanding officer had been rightly informed by these men of the state of their case. as the facts were undeniable there was little reply.sternly, scornfully, the young officer reminded the discomfited official of his obvious duty to british seamen in distress, with an expression of wonder at its being necessary for him to do so. "you will be good enough to see all these men's wants immediately attended to, and a passage home found for them at the earliest possible opportunity. the commodore trusts he will hear no more complaints of a like nature." then, turning on his heel, the lieutenant bade our delighted fellows good day, returning to his launch amid the cheers of the darkies. a clerk was at once sent with the men to the "home" with instructions to the superintendent, and the trouble was over.

not so those of the unfortunate shipping-master, who must have been heartily sorry for his foolish behaviour. for late in the afternoon our other messenger returned in state from spanish town in one of the governor's carriages, accompanied by a secretary who bore a message from the governor that made the shipping-master quake. he could only return an abject apology, with an assurance that the shipwrecked crew were now well cared-for, and that nothing on his part should be lacking for their comfort. but, though we heard no more of the affair, i doubt very much whether the shipping-master did. from the stir the event made in kingston, i am inclined to think it was a long time before he was permitted to forget it.

for about a fortnight i had a rattling good time in kingston. confident in the assurance that i should not be forgotten whenever a chance presented itself of getting away, i cast all care to the winds, and set about enjoying myself all i knew how. moonlight fishing-excursions in ramshackle canoes to sheltered coves around the great harbour, long rambles in the wonderful brakes and jungles with darkies, that, though men in years, were children in their fresh enjoyment of everything; singing-parties along the beautiful beaches in the silky evenings, and all with never a thought of to-morrow—oh, it was heavenly! i scarcely saw anything of my shipmates. i didn't want to. my new associates, although black, were full of kindliness, and as pleased with me as i was with them; what wonder that i avoided, as far as i could, any intercourse with men whose presence only reminded me of miserable days better forgotten. out of the many incidents that are mellowed by time into a haze of half recollection, one grotesque affair stands out sharply, and even now makes me quiver with laughter as its vivid details reappear. a favourite pastime with the élite of the coloured population was to gather in large numbers, dressed in all their finery, upon an old disused pier, whose crazy piles and beams actually swayed with a stronger breeze than usual. upon this ancient structure, when the day's work was over, the young men and women would frisk or loll about, according to their humour; but their chief amusement was the singing of chanties, camp-meeting hymns, and, in fact, anything with a rousing chorus in which all hands could join. on the night in question, song had succeeded song until somebody sent an electric thrill through the whole gathering by starting the negroes' great anthem of freedom, "marching through georgia." you could hear the pulses of that great crowd beat while they waited breathlessly for the last word of the sonorous verse; and then, in one tremendous burst of melody, every one lifted up heart and voice, while from far-away fishermen on the bay and labourers on the hills the inspiring chorus rolled on. as verse succeeded verse the enthusiasm rose to fever-heat; every one sprang to their feet, waving their arms and stamping in unison until the crazy structure upon which they stood trembled to its ancient foundations. it was a wonderful sight, having its ludicrous side, doubtless; but the high seriousness, and irrepressible energy of the actors, prevented all desire to laugh. suddenly, in the height of the chorus, there was a rending crash, and the entire fabric collapsed in one chaotic heap of disjointed timbers and shrieking humanity into the placid waters beneath. no one was hurt, for the tide was high, and every darky swam like a fish; but the scene of mad merriment on the beach, as one draggled figure after another emerged from the wreckage, was indescribable. not until long after midnight did the peals of laughter entirely cease, for they rose again and again in all quarters of the town, as the participants rehearsed the scene to those who had not been fortunate enough to witness it.

i had begun to feel as if i had always lived there, and the thought of leaving had quite disappeared from my mind, when one day i received a note from the gentleman to whom i had brought the letter of introduction, telling me to go on board a large steamer, which had arrived at kingston that morning, as he had seen the captain, and made arrangements for me to be allowed to work my passage home.