barring two or three tall buildings, the city of pittsburgh was then of a simple and homelike aspect. a few blackened church spires, a small dark city hall and an old market-place, a long stretch of blast furnaces, black as night, and the lightly constructed bridges over the rivers, gave it all an airy grace and charm.

since the houses up here were very simple, mostly working-men’s cottages, and the streets back followed the crests of hills twisting and winding as they went and providing in consequence the most startling and effective views of green hills and mountains beyond, i decided that should i be so fortunate as to secure work i would move over here. it would be like living in a mountain resort, and most inexpensively.

i descended and took a car which followed the monongahela upstream to homestead, and here for the first time had a view of that enormous steel plant which only recently (june to december, 1892) had played such a great part in the industrial drama of america. the details of the quarrel were fairly fresh in my mind: how the carnegie steel company had planned, with the technicalities of a wage-scale readjustment as an excuse, to break the power of the amalgamated steel workers, who were becoming too forceful and who were best organized in their plant, and how the amalgamated, resenting the introduction of three hundred pinkerton guards to “protect” the plant, had attacked them, killing several and injuring others, and so permitting the introduction of the state militia, which speedily and permanently broke the power of the strikers. they could only wait then and starve, and so they had waited and starved for six months, when they finally returned to work, such of them as would be received. when i reached there in april, 1894, the battle was already fifteen months past, but the feeling was still alive. i did not then know what it was about this town of homestead that was so depressing, but in the six months of my stay here i found that it was a compound of a sense of defeat and sullen despair. the men had not forgotten. even then the company was busy, and had been for months, importing poles, hungarians, lithuanians, to take the places of the ousted strikers. whole colonies were already here, housed under the most unsatisfactory conditions, and more were coming. hence the despair of those who had been defeated.

along the river sprawled for a quarter of a mile or more the huge low length of the furnaces, great black bottle-like affairs with rows of stacks and long low sheds or buildings paralleling them, sheds from which came a continuous hammering and sputtering and the glow of red fire. the whole was shrouded by a pall of gray smoke, even in the bright sunshine. above the plant, on a slope which rose steeply behind it, were a few moderately attractive dwellings grouped about two small parks, the trees of which were languishing for want of air. behind and to the sides of these were the spires of several churches, those soporifics against failure and despair. turning up side streets one found, invariably, uniform frame houses, closely built and dulled by smoke and grime, and below, on the flats behind the mill, were cluttered alleys so unsightly and unsanitary as to shock me into the belief that i was once more witnessing the lowest phases of chicago slum-life, the worst i had ever seen. the streets were mere mud-tracks. where there were trees (and there were few) they were dwarfed and their foliage withered by a metallic fume which was over all. though the sun was bright at the top of the hill, down here it was gray, almost cloudy, at best a filtered dull gold haze.

the place held me until night. i browsed about its saloons, of which there was a large number, most of them idle during the drift of the afternoon. the open gates of the mill held my interest also, for through them i could see furnaces, huge cranes, switching engines, cars of molten iron being hauled to and fro, and mountains of powdered iron ore and scrap iron piled here and there awaiting the hour of new birth in the smelting vats. when the sun had gone down, and i had watched a shift of men coming out with their buckets and coats over their arms, and other hundreds entering in a rush, i returned to the city with a sense of the weight and breadth and depth of huge effort. here bridges and rail and plate steel were made for all the world. but of all these units that dwelt and labored here scarce a fraction seemed even to sense a portion of the meaning of all they did. i knew that carnegie had become a multi-millionaire, as had phipps and others, and that he was beginning to give libraries, that phipps had already given several floral conservatories, and that their “lobbies” in congress were even then bartering for the patronage of the government on their terms; but the poor units in these hovels at homestead—what did they know?

on another day i explored the east end of pittsburgh, which was the exclusive residence section of the city and a contrast to such hovels and deprivations as i had witnessed at homestead and among the shacks across the monongahela and below mt. washington. never in my life, neither before nor since, in new york, chicago or elsewhere, was the vast gap which divides the rich from the poor in america so vividly and forcefully brought home to me. i had seen on my map a park called schenley, and thinking that it might be interesting i made my way out a main thoroughfare called (quite appropriately, i think) fifth avenue, lined with some of the finest residences of the city. never did the mere possession of wealth impress me so keenly. here were homes of the most imposing character, huge, verandaed, tree-shaded, with immense lawns, great stone or iron or hedge fences and formal gardens and walks of a most ornate character. it was a region of well-curbed, well-drained and well-paved thoroughfares. even the street-lamps were of a better design than elsewhere, so eager was a young and democratic municipality to see that superior living conditions were provided for the rich. there were avenues lined with well-cropped trees, and at every turn one encountered expensive carriages, their horses jingling silver or gold-gilt harness, their front seats occupied by one or two footmen in livery, while reclining was madam or sir, or both, gazing condescendingly upon the all too comfortable world about them.

in schenley park was a huge and interesting arboretum or botanical garden under glass, a most oriental affair given by phipps of the carnegie company. a large graceful library of white limestone, perhaps four or five times the size of the one in allegheny, given by andrew carnegie, was in process of construction. and he was another of the chief beneficiaries of homestead, the possessor of a great house in this region, another in new york and still another in scotland, a man for whom the unwitting “pinkertons” and contending strikers had been killed. like huge ribbons of fire these and other names of powerful steel men—the olivers, thaws, fricks, thompsons—seemed to rise and band the sky. it seemed astonishing to me that some men could thus rise and soar about the heavens like eagles, while others, drab sparrows all, could only pick among the offal of the hot ways below. what were these things called democracy and equality about which men prated? had they any basis in fact? there was constant palaver about the equality of opportunity which gave such men as these their chance, but i could not help speculating as to the lack of equality of opportunity these men created for others once their equality at the top had made them. if equality of opportunity had been so excellent for them why not for others, especially those in their immediate care? true, all men had not the brains to seize upon and make use of that which was put before them, but again, not all men of brains had the blessing of opportunity as had these few men. strength, as i felt, should not be too arrogant or too forgetful of the accident or chance by which it had arrived. it might do something for the poor—pay them decent living wages, for instance. were these giants planning to subject their sons and daughters to the same “equality of opportunity” which had confronted them at the start and which they were so eager to recommend to the attention of others? not at all. in this very neighborhood i passed an exclusive private school for girls, with great grounds and a beautiful wall—another sample of equality of opportunity.

on the fourth day of my stay here i called again at the dispatch office and was given a position, but only after the arrival of a telegram from toledo offering me work at eighteen a week. now i had long since passed out of the eighteen-dollar stage of reporting, and this was by no means a comforting message. if i could show it to the dispatch city editor, i reasoned, it would probably hasten his decision to accept me, but also he might consider eighteen dollars as a rate of pay acceptable to me and would offer no more. i decided not to use it just then but to go first and see if anything had come about in my favor.

“nothing yet,” he said on seeing me. “drop around tomorrow or saturday. i’m sure to know then one way or the other.”

i went out and in the doorway below stood and meditated. what was i to do? if i delayed too long my friend in toledo would not be able to do anything for me, and if i showed this message it would fix my salary at a place below that which i felt i deserved. i finally hit upon the idea of changing the eighteen to twenty-five and went to a telegraph office to find some girl to rewrite it for me. not seeing a girl i would be willing to approach, i worked over it myself, carefully erasing and changing until the twenty-five, while a little forced and scraggly, looked fairly natural. with this in my pocket i returned to the dispatch this same afternoon, and told the city editor with as great an air of assurance as i could achieve that i had just received this message and was a little uncertain as to what to do about it. “the fact is,” i said, “i have started from the west to go east. new york is my eventual goal, unless i find a good place this side of it. but i’m up against it now and unless i can do something here i might as well go back there for the present. i wouldn’t show you this except that i must answer it tonight.”

he read it and looked at me uncertainly. finally he got up, told me to wait a minute, and went through a nearby door. in a minute or two he returned and said: “well, that’s all right. we can do as well as that, anyhow, if you want to stay at that rate.”

“all right,” i replied as nonchalantly as i could. “when do i start?”

“come around tomorrow at twelve. i may not have anything for you, but i’ll carry you for a day or two until i have.”

i trotted down the nearby steps as fast as my feet would carry me, anxious to get out of his sight so that i might congratulate myself freely. i hurried to a telegraph office to reject my friend’s offer. to celebrate my cleverness and success i indulged in a good meal at one of the best restaurants. here i sat, and to prepare myself for my work examined that day’s dispatch, as well as the other papers, with a view to unraveling their method of treating a feature or a striking piece of news, also to discover what they considered a feature. by nine or ten i had solved that mystery as well as i could, and then to quiet my excited nerves i walked about the business section, finally crossing to mt. washington so as to view the lighted city at night from this great height. it was radiantly clear up there, and a young moon shining, and i had the pleasure of looking down upon as wonderful a night panorama as i have ever seen, a winking and fluttering field of diamonds that outrivaled the sky itself. as far as the eye could see were these lamps blinking and winking, and overhead was another glistering field of stars. below was that enormous group of stacks with their red tongues waving in the wind. far up the monongahela, where lay homestead and mckeesport and braddock and swissvale, other glows of red fire indicated where huge furnaces were blazing and boiling in the night. i thought of the nest of slums i had seen at homestead, of those fine houses in the east end, and of carnegie with his libraries, of phipps with his glass conservatories. how to get up in the world and be somebody was my own thought now, and yet i knew that wealth was not for me. the best i should ever do was to think and dream, standing aloof as a spectator.

the next day i began work on the dispatch and for six months was a part of it, beginning with ordinary news reporting, but gradually taking up the task of preparing original column features, first for the daily and later for the sunday issue. still later, not long before i left, i was by way of being an unpaid assistant to the dramatic editor, and a traveling correspondent.

what impressed me most was the peculiar character of the city and the newspaper world here, the more or less somnolent nature of its population (apart from the steel companies and their employees) and the genial and sociable character of the newspaper men. never had i encountered more intelligent or helpful or companionable albeit cynical men than i found here. they knew the world, and their opportunities for studying public as well as private impulses and desires and contrasting them with public and private performances were so great as to make them puzzled if not always accurate judges of affairs and events. one can always talk to a newspaper man, i think, with the full confidence that one is talking to a man who is at least free of moralistic mush. nearly everything in connection with those trashy romances of justice, truth, mercy, patriotism, public profession of all sorts, is already and forever gone if they have been in the business for any length of time. the religionist is seen by them for what he is: a swallower of romance or a masquerader looking to profit and preferment. of the politician, they know or believe but one thing: that he is out for himself, a trickster artfully juggling with the moods and passions and ignorance of the public. judges are men who have by some chance or other secured good positions and are careful to trim their sails according to the moods and passions of the strongest element in any community or nation in which they chance to be. the arts are in the main to be respected, when they are not frankly confessed to be enigmas.

in a very little while i came to be on friendly terms with the men of this and some other papers, men who, because of their intimate contact with local political and social conditions, were well fitted to enlighten me as to the exact economic and political conditions here. two in particular, the political and labor men of this paper were most helpful. the former, a large, genial, commercial-drummer type, who might also have made an excellent theatrical manager or promoter, provided me with a clear insight into the general cleavage of local and state politics and personalities. i liked him very much. the other, the labor man, was a slow, silent, dark, square-shouldered and almost square-headed youth, who drifted in and out of the office irregularly. he it was who attended, when permitted by the working people themselves, all labor meetings in the city or elsewhere, as far east at times as the hard coal regions about wilkes-barre and scranton. as he himself told me, he was the paper’s sole authority for such comments or assertions as it dared to make in connection with the mining of coal and the manufacture of steel. he was an intense sympathizer with labor, but not so much with organized as with unorganized workers. he believed that labor here had two years before lost a most important battle, one which would show in its contests with money in the future: which was true. he pretended to know that there was a vast movement on foot among the moneyed elements in america to cripple if not utterly destroy organized labor, and to that end he assured me once that all the great steel and coal and oil magnates were in a conspiracy to flood the country with cheap foreign labor, which they had lured or were luring here by all sorts of dishonest devices; once here, these immigrants were to be used to break the demand of better-paid and more intelligent labor. he pretended to know that in the coal and steel regions thousands had already been introduced and more were on their way, and that all such devices as showy churches and schools for defectives, etc., were used to keep ignorant and tame those already here.

“but you can’t say anything about it in pittsburgh,” he said to me. “if i should talk i’d have to get out of here. the papers here won’t use a thing unfavorable to the magnates in any of these fields. i write all sorts of things, but they never get in.”

he read the congressional record daily, as well as various radical papers from different parts of the country, and was constantly calling my attention to statistics and incidents which proved that the workingman was being most unjustly put upon and undermined; but he never did it in any urgent or disturbed manner. rather, he seemed to be profoundly convinced that the cause of the workers everywhere in america was hopeless. they hadn’t the subtlety and the force and the innate cruelty of those who ruled them. they were given to religious and educational illusions, the parochial school and church paper, which left them helpless. in the course of time, because i expressed interest in and sympathy for these people, he took me into various mill slums in and near the city to see how they lived.