it needed the sight of beautiful kronstadt to efface the impression of this ghastly picture—beautiful, indeed, as it clings to the steep mountain-side, looking as though the picturesque houses and turrets had been carved out of the rocks which tower above them.

at hermanstadt the view of the mountain-chain is grander and more sublime, but kronstadt has the advantage of being in itself part and portion of the mountain scenery, the fashionable promenade winding in serpentine curves up the kapellen berg to the back of the town, being but the beginning of an ascent which, if pursued, will lead us to a height of wellnigh seven thousand feet.

without, however, going any such desperate distance, merely from{349} the top of the kapellen berg or zinne (thirteen hundred feet above the town), to be reached without perceptible effort, we can enjoy one of the finest views to be seen throughout transylvania, offering as it does a singularly harmonious blending of wild, uncultured nature and rich pastoral scenery.

not far below the highest point of the kapellen berg is a small cave which goes by the name of the nonnenloch (nun’s hole). a hermit is said to have lived here for many years; but it is more celebrated as having been the haunt of a monstrous serpent, which hence used to pounce down upon inadvertent wanderers. on one occasion it is said to have carried off and devoured a student who was reading near the town-wall; but tormented by thirst after this plentiful repast, the monster drank water till it burst. the portrait of this gigantic snake may still be seen painted on the old town-wall near the barracks.

there is another legend relating to the kronstadt kapellen berg, which, though somewhat lengthy, is too graceful to be refused a place here:

“many, many years ago there lived at the kronstadt gymnasium a student who was uncommon wise and god-fearing, and who could preach so well that it often happened that he was delegated by any one of the town clergymen, when indisposed with a cold or toothache, to preach in his stead. and this the student did right willingly; for he received for each sermon half a hungarian florin, which was good pay for those times. but still more for the honor and glory did he like to do it; and the most praiseworthy thing about it was, that he did not copy out his sermons from a book, but that he composed them unaided out of his own mind and learned them by rote; and as, moreover, he had a fine manner of delivery, it was a pleasure to listen to him. whenever he had to learn a sermon by heart, it was his custom to seek out solitary places where he might be undisturbed, but his favorite haunt used to be the steep, wooded hill behind the town.

“thus one day, having to learn a sermon to be preached on the morrow at the johannis kirche (the present catholic franciscan church), our student as usual repaired to his favorite haunt. he had just finished his self-allotted task, and was preparing to go home, when he espied a beautiful bird, which, hopping about on an overhanging branch, seemed to be intently gazing at him. the student approached the bird, but when he had reached it so close as almost to touch it with his hand, it flew off some paces farther up the hill, alighting on another{350} branch and gazing on him as before. again he followed the bird, which, repeating its former man?uvre, led him on by degrees almost to the top of the hill to the spot now known as the nonnenloch. here the bird disappeared into a thicket, still followed by the student, who, bending aside the branches, saw a broad cleft in the rock, wide enough to admit a man’s body. he could still descry the bird, which, flying in through the opening, was soon lost to sight in the cavernous depths within.

“wonderingly he entered the cave and penetrated a considerable way into the mountain, not understanding, however, how it was that, though so far removed from the light of day, he was yet perfectly able to distinguish his surroundings as in a sort of twilight. suddenly at the end of the cave, which had now contracted to a narrow passage, he was confronted by the figure of a dwarf with pale face and long gray beard, who cried in a deep, angry voice, ‘who art thou? and what seekest thou here?’

“the student felt sorely afraid, but took heart, seeing that his conscience was clear and he had done no harm; so he related to the dwarf how, having come hither to learn his sermon, which by the help of god he hoped to preach next day in the johannis kirche, he had been led by the bird ever up the hill and deeper into the forest, till he reached this cave.

“at the very first word the manikin’s face grew mild and benevolent. ‘so thou art he?’ he said, in a gentle voice, when the other had finished speaking. ‘often have i listened to thee reciting thy sermons down in the forest, and have been rejoiced and edified by the beautiful words. i am the berg-geist (mountain-spirit), and the bird which enticed thee hither is in my service, and did so by my order, for i wished to know thee. thou shalt not repent having come hither, for i will show thee what no mortal eye has seen.’

“at a sign from the dwarf an invisible door at the extremity of the cave flew open, and following his guide, the student gazed about him in speechless wonder. he now found himself in a vault far wider and loftier than the church nave, and though there were here neither windows nor torches, the whole building was pervaded by a rosy, transparent twilight. what a gorgeous and splendid sight now met his eyes! the arches on which the vault rested were of massive silver, and of silver, too, the pillars which supported them. the ribs of the arches were of gold, as likewise the ornaments on the columns. moreover,{351} these columns were encircled by flower-garlands composed of many-colored precious stones—diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and topazes; while hundreds more of the same stones lay strewn about on the ground. how all this glittered and sparkled before the eyes of the wondering student!

“‘see,’ spoke the dwarf, ‘this is a workshop, and there are many more such in the heart of the mountains, where, out of gold, silver, and precious stones, we spirits fashion the flowers that deck the surface of the earth. you foolish mortals no doubt believe the flowers to sprout of themselves in spring to enamel meadow and forest in blue, red, and yellow tints. but learn that this is the work of us, the mountain-spirits, who by order of the creator wander over the surface of the earth, unseen by men, sowing broadcast the mountain treasures which glitter in the sunshine in manifold shapes and colors. and in autumn, when the flowers wither, we go forth again to gather in the gems we have strewn, and hide them in rocky strongholds till spring comes round again. thus do we strive to rejoice the hearts of men by letting their eyes feast on the works of the creator. but,’ he continued, laughing maliciously, ‘we feel but contempt and derision for such foolish mortals as, having become possessed of some stray grains of our flower-seed, which they have perchance discovered in a torrent-bed or rocky fissure, set great store on their possession, decking themselves out with it as though each simple field-flower were not more beautiful by far than the gem from which it has sprung.’

“the words of the mountain-spirit well pleased the student, and he thought of the text of the sermon he was about to preach on the morrow, treating of the lilies of the field, which neither toil nor spin, and are yet more gorgeous than solomon in all his glory. but at the same time there went through his brain other thoughts of less lofty nature. to a poor devil such as he a pocketful of these glittering stones would be a most acceptable present—sufficient probably to relieve him of all material anxiety, and enable him to go to germany to finish his studies. vainly he hoped that the gray-bearded dwarf might tender some such gift, but to his discomfiture the berg-geist betrayed no such intention.

“something more than an hour the student spent in contemplation of the riches of the cavern; then he bethought himself of home, and begged the dwarf to let him out.

“‘the little bird,’ spoke the spirit, ‘which brought thee hither will{352} conduct thee back through the cleft.’ but as they neared the entrance of the vault the student made a feint of stumbling, and as he did so, surreptitiously caught up a handful of gems, which he secreted in the pocket of his dolman. the old dwarf said nothing, but smiled sarcastically, and the student deemed his man?uvre to have passed unnoticed.

“suddenly the dwarf had disappeared, and the student found himself again in the cleft of rock where an hour previously the bird had lured him; and here, too, the bird itself was waiting for him, and, hopping cheerfully in front, soon conducted him back to the light of day, whereupon it disappeared into the bushes.

“our student felt heartily thankful to be delivered from the somewhat uncanny surroundings, and to see the blue sky and the golden sunshine once more. but, strange to say, as he pursued his way homeward down the hill to regain the town by the upper gate, several things struck him as unknown and unfamiliar. the people he met were not attired according to the fashion of the day; the path was smoother and better kept; even the very trees seemed changed, and no more the same he had seen growing there when he had gone up the hill that morning. he specially remembered a slender young lime-tree which had been planted only the spring before; where had it now gone to? and how came there to be an aged and majestic tree in its place?

“as he entered the town-gate that leads into the heilig-leichnams gasse (corpus christi street), many things likewise appeared strange; the houses had foreign shapes, and out of their windows there peeped unknown faces.

“while ruminating over these puzzling facts he bethought himself of the treasure he carried in his pocket, and his conscience began to prick him, that he, who until now had been careful to keep the ten commandments, had now made himself guilty of breaking the eighth one. it seemed to him as though the purloined gems were burning through the coat into his heart. thus thinking, he approached the river in order to ease his conscience by throwing in the stolen property. he put his hand into his pocket and drew it out full, but before throwing away the treasure he wished to take a last look at the glittering stones. but what was this? a handful of coarse gravel was all he held. some witchcraft must be here at work; and a cold shudder ran over his frame, but he was thankful to be rid of the accursed jewels.

“at last he had reached the school, and stepped over the threshold of the door. several students met him in the corridors or coming down the staircase; but he, who knew every one about the place, was surprised to see naught but strange faces, who stared back at him with astonishment equal to his own.

“he entered his little bedchamber, but here also all was different: no press, no table, no chair remained of those he had left there that morning; the very bed was another one, and the occupants of the room knew him as little as he knew them.

“this was surely a greater wonder than all that had happened to him up yonder at the cavern. it needed all his self-control to keep his faculties together and prevent himself from going mad. and he must keep his reason; for was he not to preach his sermon next day in the church of st. john?

“he fared no better when, hoping to find a way out of his dilemma, he rushed wildly to the rector’s abode. the voice which responded ‘intra’ to his modest knock was a strange one; and as he, entering, saw a stranger sitting at the writing-table, he timidly said that he wished to speak to the virum pereximium. ‘i am he,’ was the answer; ‘who are you, and what seek you here? i am acquainted with all the students of the gymnasium. how come you to be wearing their dress?’

“our student now mentioned his name, and related how he had been delegated by the reverend and worthy minister such-and-such to preach on the following day; how he had gone out early on to the hill to learn his sermon by rote, and all that subsequently happened to him. everything he related faithfully, excepting the episode regarding the handful of glittering stones, which he thought better to conceal. then he told how on his return he found everything changed as by an evil charm—how he knew nobody, and was known by none in return.

“when the student had first named himself, and likewise mentioned the name of the preacher whose place he was to take next day, an expression of wondering astonishment had dawned on the rector’s face, which grew more intense as the narrative proceeded. when the student had finished his story, he turned round hastily and took from the bookcase behind him an ancient volume in pig-skin binding.

“‘yes; here it stands in the albo studios? juventutis gymnasii,{354} anno domini 1——: “on the —— of the month of august did the studiosus togatus n—— n—— ex ?dibus gymnasii, absent himself from here and did not again return, which defalcation caused all the greater consternation as the said studiosus had been delegated to preach next day, being the fifteenth sunday after trinity, in the church of st. johannes, and in lieu of the sermon a lectio biblica had to be held instead.” and this happened,’ wound up the rector, turning to the student, ‘exactly a hundred years ago to-day.’

“and so it was in truth; the time he had spent in the cave had seemed but an hour to the young man, and in reality a hundred years had passed! everything around him had changed except his own self; for the years that had fled had left no mark on him, and he looked young and strong as a youth of scarce twenty years.

“it is easy to conceive how this wonderful story was swiftly spread throughout the town, and especially what sensation it caused amid the kronstadt students, among whom the centenarian youth was now permitted to resume his place. then as the mid-day bell had just tolled, and our student felt a mighty craving of hunger within him (which was not wonderful, considering that he had fasted for a century), he did not require much pressing to sit down at the dinner-board with his companions.

“but oh, wonder of wonders! hardly had he swallowed the first spoonful of the dish before him, when his whole appearance began to change: his dark hair turned gradually white, and fell from his head like snow-flakes; his features shrank perceptibly, and the bloom of his cheek gave place to an ashy pallor; his eye grew dim; and scarcely had his comrades, hastening to support his sinking frame, laid him upon a bed, when with a last deep-drawn breath he expired.

“for some years after this many kronstadt students used to haunt the hill along the town, in hopes that the bird might appear and lead them into the enchanted cavern, secretly resolving well to line their pockets with the riches it contained—for that the jewels were subsequently changed to gravel they had not been informed. but though many have searched for the spot, none ever succeeded in finding it again, so that by degrees the love of reciting sermons on the mountain died out, and the whole story lapsed into oblivion. also, the page from the albo scholastico where mention is made of this is said to be missing, so that now but a few old people are acquainted with this legend, and fewer still there are who yet believe it.”

kronstadt, or brasso, as it is called in hungarian, lying at a height of 1900 feet above the sea-level, is of more mixed complexion than other transylvanian towns, and is already mentioned in the thirteenth century as having a mixed population of saxons, szeklers, and wallachs. whereas klausenburg is exclusively a hungarian, and hermanstadt a saxon city, kronstadt partakes a little of both characters, and has, moreover, a dash of oriental coloring about it. in the streets, besides the usual contingent of fiery magyars, stolid saxons, melancholy roumanians, ragged tziganes, and solemn armenians, we pass by other figures, red-fezzed, beturbaned, or long-robed, which, giving to the population a kaleidoscopic effect, make us feel that we are next door to the east, and only a few steps removed from such things as camels, minarets, and harems.

king matthias corvinus.

kronstadt is said to derive its name from a golden crown found suspended on a broken tree-stump about the year 1204. a fugitive king—such is one version of the story—had here deposited his head-gear, no doubt finding it inconvenient when flying through the forest. on the spot where the royal insignia was found was raised the present town of kronstadt, whose arms consist of the image of a crown suspended on a stump. the tree-stump represents the town, we are told, its roots the burzen, or wurzel, land, while the crown is figurative of the hungarian monarch.[78] the original crown is said to have been long treasured up in the guildhall of kronstadt, and jealously guarded by the citizens, who showed it but rarely, and as special mark of favor to some potentate. an old writer of the year 1605 described this crown as being of gold and decorated with golden plumes, and mentions that it was gregory, the despotic king of m?sia, who, obliged to withdraw from the siege of kronstadt, and defeated by the turkish pacha mizetes, laid down his crown on the stump where it was afterwards found by kronstadt citizens.

there is another story, which relates that this crown belonged to solomon, king of hungary, who died dethroned in the eleventh century, and spent his last years living as a hermit in a romantic valley near kronstadt which still bears his name. feeling his death approach, he concealed his golden crown in a hollow beech-tree, where long afterwards it was discovered by some shepherds, when the tree, becoming old and rotten, had fallen to the ground.

the feast of st. john the baptist (june 24th) was generally regarded as the anniversary of the crown-finding, to commemorate which it used to be customary to hoist up at the end of a high maypole a crown woven together of ripe cherries, roses, and rosemary, and adorned with gingerbread figures and cakes of various sorts. the youth of both sexes danced round this pole to the sound of music, and whoever succeeded in scaling the height and carrying off the crown received a handsome prize.

a dilapidated crown carved in the stone fa?ade of an old house in the purzelgasse at kronstadt gives evidence that here king matthias, once travelling incognito, as was his wont, entered and consumed the{357} frugal meal of six eggs, leaving behind him on the table-cloth a paper on which were written the latin words:

“hic fuit matthias rex comedit ova sex.”

the principal church at kronstadt, dating from the end of the fourteenth century, contains many objects of interest, besides an organ which is of european reputation. in the sacristy are preserved rich old vestments remaining from catholic times, perfect masterpieces of elaborate embroidery, such as i have not anywhere seen surpassed. sometimes a cope or chasuble is covered with a whole gallery of figures executed in raised-work, each detail of expression and every fold of the drapery being rendered in a manner approaching the sculptor’s art.

in the church itself hang some of the most exquisite turkish carpets i have ever seen—such tender idyllic blue-green tints, such gloomy passionate reds, such pensive amber shades, as to render distracted with envy any amateur of antique fabrics who has the harrowing disappointment of ascertaining that these masterpieces of the oriental loom are not purchasable even for untold sums of heavy gold!

“there was ein verrückter engl?nder (a mad englishman) here some years ago,” i was told by a church-warden, “who would have given any price for that pale-blue one up yonder, and he remained here a whole month merely to be able to see it every day; but he had to go away empty-handed at last, for these carpets, like the vestments, are the property of the church, and not even the bishop himself has power to dispose of them.”