the words “church” and “fortress” used to be synonymous in transylvania, so the places of worship might accurately have been described as churches militant. each saxon village church was surrounded by a row, sometimes even a double or triple row, of fortified walls, which are mostly still extant. the remains of moat and drawbridge are also yet frequently to be seen. when threatened by an enemy the people used to retire into these fortresses, often built on some rising piece of ground, taking with them their valuables as well as provisions for the contingency of a lengthy siege. from these heights the saxons used to roll down heavy stones on to their assailants, sometimes with terrible effect; but when they had in this way exhausted their missiles, the predicament was often a very precarious one. some of these stones still survive, and may occasionally be seen—as within the fortress walls of the old ruined church which i have already mentioned as standing on a steep incline above the picturesque village of michelsberg.

the church itself, having been replaced by a more conveniently situated one down in the village, is now deserted, and is used only as a storehouse by the villagers. the fortified walls are crumbling away, and the passage round the church is choked up by weeds and briers, among which lie strewn about many old moss-grown stones, circular in shape and resembling giant cannon-balls. these were the missiles which lay there in readiness to be rolled down on to an approaching enemy; and there was a law compelling each bridegroom, before leading his bride to the altar, to roll uphill to the church-door one of these formidable globes. this was so ordained in order to exclude from matrimony all sick or weakly subjects; and as the incline was a steep one, and each stone weighed about two hundred-weight, it was a considerable test of strength.

fortified saxon church.

would that these old stones, lying here neglected among the nettles, had the gift of speech! what traits of love and of bloodshed might we not learn from them! only to look at them there strewn{65} around, it is not difficult to guess at the outlines of some of the stories they are dumbly telling us. many are chipped and worn away, and have evidently been used more than once in their double capacity, alternately rolled up the hill by smiling cupid, to be hurled down again by furious nemesis.

here near a clump of burdock-leaves is a shabby-looking globe of yellow sandstone, whose puny size plainly speaks of a mariage de convenance—a mere union of hands without hearts; perhaps some old widower, with trembling hands and shaky knees, in quest of a wife to look after his house, and to whom the whole matter was very uphill work indeed!

close alongside, half hidden beneath the graceful tangles of a wild-rose bush, is a formidable bowlder of gigantic, nay, heroic size, which forcibly suggests that it must have been a mighty love indeed which brought it up here—so mighty, no doubt, that to the two strong young arms which rolled it up the hill it must have seemed light as a feather’s weight.

and how many of these, might one ask, have been rolled up here in vain, in so far as the love was concerned? when the fire of love had grown cold and its sweetness all turned to vinegar, how many, many a former lover must heartily have wished that he had never moved his stone from the bottom of the hill!

such thoughts involuntarily crowd on the mind when sitting, as i have done many a time, within this lonely ruin on fine summer evenings, the idyllic peacefulness of the scene the more strongly felt by contrast with the bloody memories linked around it. it is so strange to realize how completely everything has passed away that once used to be: that the hands which pushed these heavy globes, as well as the moslem crania for which they were intended, have turned alike to dust; that hushed forever are the voices once awaking fierce echoes within these very walls; and that of all those contrasting passions, of all that tender love and that burning hatred, nothing has survived but a few old stones lying forgotten near a deserted church!

the history of the sieges endured in transylvania on the part of turk or tartar would in itself furnish matter for many volumes. numberless anecdotes are yet current characterizing the endurance and courage of the besieged, and the original means often resorted to in order to baffle or mislead the enemy.

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once it was the ready wit of a szekel woman which saved her people besieged by the tartars within the almescher cavern. as the whole land had been devastated from end to end, a severe famine was the consequence, and both besiegers and besieged were sorely in want of victuals. the szekels had taken some provisions with them into the cave, but these were soon exhausted; and the tartars, though starving themselves, were consoled by thinking that hunger would soon compel their enemy to give in. one day, when, as usual, the barbarians had assembled shouting and howling in front of the cavern, whose entrance was defended by a high wall, a hungarian woman held up before their eyes a large cake at the end of a long pole, and cried out, tauntingly, “see here, ye dogs of tartars! thus are we feasting in plenty and comfort, while you are reduced to eat grass and roots of trees.” this much-vaunted cake was but kneaded together of water and ashes, with a few last remaining spoonfuls of flour; but the tartars, taken in by the feint, abandoned the field.

another time it was nothing more than a swarm of bees which turned the scale in favor of the saxons, hard pressed by the enemy outside. already they had begun to scale the walls of the fortified church, and death and destruction seemed imminent, when the youthful daughter of the church-warden was struck by a bright idea. behind the church was a little garden full of sweet-scented flowers, and containing a dozen beehives, which it was lieschen’s (such was her name) pride to watch over. seizing a hive in each hand, she sprang up on the fortress wall, and with all her strength hurled them down among the approaching besiegers. again and again she repeated this man?uvre till the hives were exhausted, and the bewildered enemies, blinded by the dense swarm of infuriated bees, deafened by the angry buzzing in their ears, and maddened by hundredfold stings, beat an ignominious and hasty retreat.

this occurred in the village of holzmengen towards the end of the seventeenth century, and of this same village it is related that, when peace was finally restored to the land, the population was so reduced that most houses stood empty. of four hundred landholders there used to be, but fifteen now remained; and many years passed by without any wedding being celebrated in the place. when, however, at last this rare event came to pass, the bridegroom received the name of the “young man,” which stuck to him until his end. the bride was no other than lieschen, the bee-maiden, and thomas was the name of{67} her husband; and to this day whoever is in possession of that particular house goes by the name of “den jung mon thomas,” even though he happen to have been christened hans or peter, and be, moreover, as old as methuselah. if you ask the name of such another house in the same village, you are told that it belongs to michel am eck (michael at the corner). it is not a corner house, neither does its proprietor answer to the name of michel; but where it stands was once the corner of a street, and michel the name of one of the fifteen landholders who divided the property after the war; hence the appellation.

there is a story told of an active saxon housewife who, after she had been shut up for three days within the fortress awaiting the tartars reported to be near, began to weary of her enforced idleness, and throwing open the gate of the citadel, impatiently called out, “now, then, you dogs of tartars, are you never coming?”

when the tartars had succeeded in capturing prisoners they used to fatten them up for eating. a woman from the village of almesch, being sickly, refused to fatten, and, set at liberty, came home to relate the doleful tale. the little hungarians and saxons were regarded as toys for the young tartars, who, setting them up in rows, used to practise upon them the merry pastime of cutting off heads.

living in transylvania, we are sometimes inclined to wonder whether to be besieged by turks and tartars be really a thing of the past, and not rather an actual danger for which we must be prepared any day, so strangely are many little observances relating to those times still kept up. thus in the belfry tower at kaisd there hangs a little bell bearing a gothic inscription and the date 1506. it is rung every evening at the usual curfew-hour, and until within a very few years ago the watchman was under the obligation of calling forth into the night with stentorian voice, “not this way, you villains! not this way! i see you well!”

also the habit of keeping provisions stored up within the fortified church-walls, to this day extant in most saxon villages, is clearly a remnant of the time when sieges had to be looked for. even now the people seem to consider their goods to be in greater security here than in their own barns and lofts. the outer fortified wall round the church is often divided off into deep recesses or alcoves, in each of which stands a large wooden chest securely locked, and filled with grain or flour, while the little surrounding turrets or chapels are used{68} as storehouses for home-cured bacon. “we have seven chapels all full of bacon,” i was once proudly informed by a village church-warden; but, with the innate mistrust of his race, he would not indulge my further curiosity on the subject by suffering me to inspect the interior of these greasy sanctuaries, evidently suspecting me of sinister intentions on his bacon stores.

this storing up of provisions is a perfect mania among the saxons, and each village has its own special hobby or favorite article, vast quantities of which it hoards up in a preposterous, senseless fashion, reminding one of a dog who buries more bones than he can ever hope to eat in the course of his life. thus, one village prides itself on having the greatest quantity of bacon, much of which is already thirty or forty years old, and consequently totally unfit for use; while in another community the oldest grain is the great specialité. each article, case, or barrel is marked with the brand of the owner, and the whole placed under the charge of the church-warden.

some parishes can still boast of many curiously wrought pieces of church plate remaining over from catholic days—enamelled chalices, bejewelled crucifixes, remonstrances, and ciboriums, richly inlaid and embossed. the village of heltau is in possession of many such valuable ornaments which, during the turkish wars, used to be buried in the earth, sometimes for a period of many years, the exact spot where the treasure was hidden being known only to the oldest church-warden, who was careful to pass on the secret to the next in rank when he felt himself to be drawing near the end of his life. thus, in the year 1794, the church at heltau, struck by lightning, was seriously damaged, and urgently demanded extensive repairs. how to defray these expenses was the question which sorely perplexed the village pastor and the church elders, when the old warden came forward and offered to reveal to the pastor and the second warden the secret of a hidden treasure of whose existence none but he was aware. the man himself had never set eyes on the treasure, but had received from his predecessor precise directions how to find it in case of necessity. accordingly, under his guidance the pastor, accompanied by the younger warden, repaired to the church, where, entering the right-hand aisle, the old man pointed to three high-backed wooden seats fixed against the wall, saying, “the centre one of these chairs has a movable panel, behind which a door is said to be concealed.” after some effort—for the panel was jammed from long disuse—it yielded, moving upward,{69} and disclosing a small iron door with a keyhole, into which fitted an old-fashioned rusty key produced by the warden. when this door was at last got open, the three men stepped into a small vault paved with bricks. “one of these bricks is marked by a cross, and under it we have to dig for the treasure,” were the further instructions given by the old man. a very few minutes proved the truth of his words, bringing to light a small wooden chest containing a chalice, a silver remonstrance, and various other valuables, which may still be seen at the heltau parsonage; likewise a bag of gold and silver coins, dating from the time of the batorys, which leads to the supposition that the treasure had been lying here concealed ever since the beginning of the seventeenth century.

great was the pastor’s surprise and delight at this unexpected windfall; but he only took from the bag sufficient money for the necessary repairs, replacing the rest of the treasure where it had been found. none of the other parishioners were informed whence had come the money, so the secret remained a secret.

only many years later, in the present century, when the son-in-law of the former clergyman had become pastor in his turn, the story of the treasure was imparted to him by the successor of former wardens. the necessity for concealment had now gone by, and peace and prosperity reigned in the country; so the church ornaments were once more disinterred, and finally restored to the light of day, while the antiquated gold and silver pieces, exchanged into current coinage, were applied to useful purposes. thus it was that the secret oozed out, and came to be generally known.

saxon village churches of the present day are generally bare and unornamented inside, for all decorations had been dismantled at the time of the reformation; stone niches have been emptied of the statues they contained, and rich pieces of carving stowed away in lumber-rooms. only the old oriental carpets, brought hither from turkish campaigns, which frequently adorn the front of the pews or the organ-gallery, have been suffered to remain, and hang there still, delicately harmonious in coloring, but riddled through with holes like a sieve, and fed upon by the descendants of a hundred generations of moths, which flutter in a dense cloud round the visitor who inadvertently raises a corner of the drapery to investigate its fleecy quality.

curious old tombstones and bass-reliefs may often be seen carelessly{70} huddled together in the church entrance or outside the walls, treated with no sort of appreciation of their historical value or care for their ultimate preservation. also the numerous frescos which used to cover many church walls have been obliterated by the barbarous touch of a whitewashing hand. it would almost seem as if this saxon people had originally possessed some degree of artistic feeling, which has been, however, effectually extinguished by the reformation; for it is difficult otherwise to explain how a nation capable of raising monuments of real artistic value in the troubled times of the barbarous middle ages should be thus heedless of their conservation in the present enlightened and peaceful century.

ruined abbey of kerz.

of this lamentable indifference to the conservation of their historical and artistic treasures, the ruined abbey of kerz, situated in the valley of the aluta, offers a melancholy instance. this wealthy cistercian monastery was founded by king bela iii. towards the end of the twelfth century; but being abolished by king mathias three centuries later, on account of irregularities into which the monks had fallen, it passed, with its lands, into possession of the hermanstadt church.

the choir of the ancient abbey church, built in the time of louis the great in the transition style, is still used as a place of worship by the small lutheran congregation of kerz, but the nave has been suffered to fall into decay; many of the richly carved stones of which it was formed have been carried off by the villagers, who have utilized them for building their houses, or degraded them to yet baser purposes. we ourselves crossed the little stream, which runs close by the parson’s house, on stepping-stones evidently taken from the ancient building. likewise a lime-tree of gigantic dimensions in front of the western portal, and supposed to have been planted when the foundation-stone of the church was laid, is now in imminent danger of splitting in twain for want of the trifling attention of an iron waistband to keep its poor old body together. such the present lamentable condition of one of the most interesting relics in the country which has been named the melrose of transylvania.