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The Exeter Road

Chapter 22
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abbot’s ann

the trail of the romans is over all the surroundings of andover, and they must have loved this fishful and fertile valley well, for ample relics of extensive settlements and gorgeous villas have been unearthed by the plough. some of the fine mosaic pavements discovered here are now in the british museum, and every now and again the shepherd or the ploughman picks up a worn and battered coin of the c?sars in the neighbouring fields. one of the finest roman pavements came from the village of abbot’s ann, a short distance away, under the shadow of the great bulk of bury hill, which, crowned with prehistoric earthworks of cyclopean size, frowns down upon the valley. the whimsical name of this village and that of little ann derive from the stream, the ann, or anton, on whose banks they are situated.

in this village of abbot’s ann there still prevails a remarkable custom. on the death of a young unmarried person of the parish, his or her friends and relatives make a funeral garland, or chaplet, similar to the one sketched overleaf, in paper, and hang it from the ceiling of the church. the interior of the building now holds quite a number of these singular mementoes, the oldest dating back to the last century. they are fashioned of cardboard and white paper, something in the shape of a crown, with elaborately cut rosettes and with five paper gloves suspended, on two of which are recorded the name, the age, and the date of death of the deceased whose memory is{154} thus kept alive, while the other three are inscribed with texts or verses from favourite hymns. the particulars of age and death are repeated on a little wooden shield above.

image unavailable: funeral garland, abbot’s ann.

funeral garland, abbot’s ann.

during the last eight years three of these memorials have been added. they are placed here after having been carried in front of the coffin on the day of the funeral. on such occasions the garland is carried by two girls, dressed in white, with curiously folded handkerchiefs on their heads. there is now only one other place in england, at matlock, in derbyshire, where this curious custom survives.

the wallops

these villages, together with amport, thruxton, monxton, and east cholderton, lie in the triangular district between the branching of the two great routes of the road to exeter. just out of andover, on the rising road, stands the old toll-house that commanded either route, with the mileage to various towns still displayed prominently on its walls. the right-hand road leads to the weyhill and amesbury branch of the exeter road, while the left-hand fork is the main road to salisbury. passing this toll-house, the old road runs through an inhospitable succession of uplands which are for the most part a weariness alike to mind and body, whether you walk, or cycle, or drive a horse, or urge forth your wild career on a motor-car. going westwards, the gradient is chiefly a rising one for a long distance after leaving andover behind, and it is not until ‘the wallops’ are reached,{155} at little (or middle) wallop, lying in a hollow where a little stream trickles across the road, that any relief is experienced.

it must be little wallop to which mr. thomas hardy refers in the mayor of casterbridge, where the ruined and broken-hearted henchard, after taking up his early occupation of hay-trusser, becomes employed at a ‘pastoral farm near the old western highway.... he had chosen the neighbourhood of this artery from a sense that, situated here, though at a distance of fifty miles, he was virtually nearer to her whose welfare was so dear than he would be at a roadless spot only half as remote.’

the wallops are interesting places, despite their silly name. there are over, and nether, and middle, or, as they are otherwise styled, upper, lower, and little wallop. according to one school of antiquaries (who must by no means be suspected of joking), the wallop district is to be identified with the ‘gualoppum’ described by an old chronicler, a district, appropriately enough, the scene of a great battle in which vortigern was defeated by the saxons. there are, of course, local derivations of the meaning of this place-name, together with a belief that to sir john wallop, an ancestor of the earl of portsmouth, who ‘walloped the french’ in one or other of our many medi?val battles with that nation, we owe that very active, not to say slangy verb, ‘to wallop.’ but, unhappily for unscientific theories, there is a little stream, called the wallop, flowing through these villages, to which they owe their generic name; the name of the stream itself deriving from the anglo-saxon{156} ‘weallan,’ to boil or bubble; the root of our english word ‘well.’

of these villages, little wallop alone is on the road, and is merely an offshoot of the others, called into existence by the traffic which followed this course in the old coaching days. since railways have left the roads lonely it has simply slumbered, ‘far from the madding crowd’s ignoble strife,’ and its inhabitants are presumably happy in their retirement; although, when days are short and nights are long, and the stormy winds do blow, it is quite conceivable that there are more cheerful and warmer situations.

three miles from here the road leaves hampshire and enters wilts, and two miles onwards from that point, after passing ‘lobcombe corner,’ the junction of the stockbridge road, is seen that famous old coaching inn, the ‘pheasant,’ known much better under its other name, ‘winterslow hut.’

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