nagara. festival of buddha’s skull-bone. other relics, and his shadow.

going west for sixteen yojanas,1 he came to the city he-lo2 in the borders of the country of nagara, where there is the flat-bone of buddha’s skull, deposited in a vihara3 adorned all over with gold-leaf and the seven sacred substances. the king of the country, revering and honouring the bone, and anxious lest it should be stolen away, has selected eight individuals, representing the great families in the kingdom, and committing to each a seal, with which he should seal (its shrine) and guard (the relic). at early dawn these eight men come, and after each has inspected his seal, they open the door. this done, they wash their hands with scented water and bring out the bone, which they place outside the vihara, on a lofty platform, where it is supported on a round pedestal of the seven precious substances, and covered with a bell of /lapis lazuli/, both adorned with rows of pearls. its colour is of a yellowish white, and it forms an imperfect circle twelve inches round,4 curving upwards to the centre. every day, after it has been brought forth, the keepers of the vihara ascend a high gallery, where they beat great drums, blow conchs, and clash their copper cymbals. when the king hears them, he goes to the vihara, and makes his offerings of flowers and incense. when he has done this, he (and his attendants) in order, one after another, (raise the bone), place it (for a moment) on the top of their heads,5 and then depart, going out by the door on the west as they entered by that on the east. the king every morning makes his offerings and performs his worship, and afterwards gives audience on the business of his government. the chiefs of the vaisyas6 also make their offerings before they attend to their family affairs. every day it is so, and there is no remissness in the observance of the custom. when all the offerings are over, they replace the bone in the vihara, where there is a vimoksha tope,7 of the seven precious substances, and rather more than five cubits high, sometimes open, sometimes shut, to contain it. in front of the door of the vihara, there are parties who every morning sell flowers and incense,8 and those who wish to make offerings buy some of all kinds. the kings of various countries are also constantly sending messengers with offerings. the vihara stands in a square of thirty paces, and though heaven should shake and earth be rent, this place would not move.

going on, north from this, for a yojana, (fa-hien) arrived at the capital of nagara, the place where the bodhisattva once purchased with money five stalks of flowers, as an offering to the dipankara buddha.9 in the midst of the city there is also the tope of buddha’s tooth, where offerings are made in the same way as to the flat-bone of his skull.

a yojana to the north-east of the city brought him to the mouth of a valley, where there is buddha’s pewter staff;10 and a vihara also has been built at which offerings aremade. the staff is made of gosirsha chandana, and is quite sixteen or seventeen cubits long. it is contained in a wooden tube, and though a hundred or a thousand men ere to (try to) lift it, they could not move it.

entering the mouth of the valley, and going west, he found buddha’s sanghali,11 where also there is reared a vihara, and offerings are made. it is a custom of the country when there is a great drought, for the people to collect in crowds, bring out the robe, pay worship to it, and make offerings, on which there is immediately a great rain from the sky.

south of the city, half a yojana, there is a rock-cavern, in a great hill fronting the south-west; and here it was that buddha left his shadow. looking at it from a distance of more than ten paces, you seem to see buddha’s real form, with his complexion of gold, and his characteristic marks12 in their nicety clearly and brightly displayed. the nearer you approach, however, the fainter it becomes, as if it were only in your fancy. when the kings from the regions all around have sent skilful artists to take a copy, none of them have been able to do so. among the people of the country there is a saying current that “the thousand buddhas13 must all leave their shadows here.”

rather more than four hundred paces west from the shadow, when buddha was at the spot, he shaved his hair and clipt his nails, and proceeded, along with his disciples, to build a tope seventy or eighty cubits high, to be a model for all future topes; and it is still existing. by the side of it there is a monastery, with more than seven hundred monks in it. at this place there are as many as a thousand topes14 of arhans and pratyeka buddhas.