from the sabine mountains to the sea, south to frosinone and north to siena is that section of the peninsula which, it seems to me, is so greatly affected by life and conditions in rome as to be set off properly as the roman zone. it includes the greater portion of the provinces of romagna lazio, or latium and umbria, and the lower portion of tuscany.

the greatest positive influence in italy to-day is the church; the greatest potentiality, the army and the military party; the greatest question, the condition of the peasantry of italia meridionale; the greatest danger to the nation as a nation, the bitterness between the people of the great and prosperous provinces of the north and the less favored ones of the south.

as the centre of the world-wide catholic church, of the political and military interests of the kingdom, of art, education and literature, modern rome is a city of institutions, and her citizens are parasites in precisely the same way that a majority of the population of washington is parasitical. i have not at hand the figures to show which city has the greater proportion of industries, but i think there is little difference.

all through the region are quarries from which are taken the material consumed in the thousands of studios that produce the enormous volume of copies of noted pieces of statuary and the slenderer stream of new creations which pours out of rome and disperses 62to other parts of the continent, great britain and the united states. the amount of art copies bought in rome by american tourists each season is very large, much larger than is generally known, and forms the most important source of revenue to the people of the roman zone, aside from the dispersion of government funds, church funds and the compensation for the maintenance of the hosts of tourists and art, musical and theological students. next in industrial importance to the stone-workers come the operations that pertain to silk and to the making of imitation jewelry, of which latter pursuit rome is certainly the incomparable centre. hundreds of shops in italy display roman imitations that are nowhere excelled, and thousands of workmen in imitation flowers, jewels, etc., are coming into the united states, establishing themselves in the new world in their old vocations and finding things very prosperous indeed. in the vicinity of the tenement house in which we lived on houston street, down west broadway and elsewhere in new york, are scores of establishments engaged in this very business, and all the workmen are italians, from the zone of rome for the most part. all over the united states the industry of designing, cutting and establishing marble and granite pieces of all sorts for cemeteries is rapidly passing into the hands of italians, and in questioning many of them, in various parts of the country, as to their native provinces, they have replied uniformly, the roman campania or tuscany.

the silk-weavers and hat-makers have centred in new jersey, and in newark vie with the jews, while in paterson they have the lists more nearly to themselves. in italy the class of workmen so engaged forms a ready field for the operations of socialistic and anarchistic 63agitators; and though the fruit of their labors is rendered comparatively harmless in italy owing to the vigilance of the police and secret service, in the united states, where there is freedom of speech, the fuller harvest is reaped and the greatest danger exists.

back of these conditions lies the contempt which these people have come to hold, in the roman zone, for both church and state, and the reason is that to them both st. peter’s and the quirinal and all they represent are things far more ordinary and less impressive than to the populace of the remoter provinces. political and religious skepticism is growing to be as dangerously common among the poor people in and about rome as it was in france early last century. many social conditions are accurately reproduced, and there are wise patriots who dread a repetition in italy of what followed the 14th of july, 1789, in france.

these things really concern the people of the great northern provinces but little. they are busy and prosperous, educated and advanced, and, though within the boundaries of the same nation, they are very distinctly apart.

i can easily understand the attitude of the common people in the roman zone toward the aristocracy. the representatives of this class were returning in full force to rome only about the time we left it, but we had abundant opportunity in both naples and rome for getting something near the proper measure of these idling, pleasure-seeking, self-sufficient landholders. having their position by right of birth, and given every advantage of the european civilization as a result of rent-rolls from huge inherited estates, we found them to be, nevertheless, insolent, shallow, degenerate physically, vicious and so thoroughly unfit as 64a class for the responsibilities of the rich and high-placed that, if i had the choice between admitting to the united states a wealthy educated roman nobleman and a poor calabrese contract laborer unable to read or write, i should choose the laborer every time.

though the numbers of the middle class are lamentably small even in rome, there is a greater and more deplorable paucity farther south. in the agricultural districts a man is either a laboring tenant or a landholder, except for those few who are village artisans, tradesmen, or are in the liberal professions. it requires well-divided ownership of land or diversified industries, as in the united states, to create that sturdy enlightened and independent middle class which is the strength of any nation. the army of returned emigrants are the nearest approach to a middle class to be found in many of the southern communes.

a man should certainly be able, under nearly all circumstances, to find a better use for his pen than in uttering derogatory statements concerning any other man or class of men engaged in the service of god, no matter what their beliefs or his own convictions may be; but the relation of the italian priests to the millions of emigrants that have come or will come to the united states is of such importance that it would be cowardly not to give an honest expression concerning them. in a general sort of way the poor provinces are referred to, just as is spain, as “priest-ridden”; but to the average american that is a term of indefiniteness.

morning in the village and vineyards

the thought of a catholic cleric always brings to my mind the memory of the rt. rev. m. f. howley, f. r. s. c., the noble and self-sacrificing bishop of newfoundland; of father tommaso laboring among the 65poor italian miners of the pennsylvania anthracite regions; of priests in frontier missions of the great canadian northwest; of priests in the slums of new york, chicago, cincinnati, and other cities; of men whom i know, admire, and revere. so, judging the italian clergy by them and by them alone, i do not believe prejudice of any sort could be charged against what is hereafter said.

nor is it the italian clergy as a whole or a major portion that is open to criticism, except as it contributes to the continuance of the oppressive, vitiating system whose acute wrongs are wrought by the minority in the cloth.

rome, as the centre of the tremendous fabric of the church, witnesses not only the focussing of the beneficent operations of the church at large, but of the condemnable workings of the provincial clerics as well. there the true root of the trouble is most nearly laid bare, and it seems strange indeed that something so unworthy should exist under the very walls of the vatican.

this basic condition is the propensity of indolent young men, sons of impoverished families of quality, sickly youths unfit for more strenuous pursuits, and designing and ambitious students, to turn to the priesthood as affording them the prospect of a lifelong “soft snap.” they do this, and are supported in it by their families, without the slightest regard, as a rule, to any truly religious considerations whatever. italy is greatly overcrowded. opportunities to rise in life are very few indeed. the man is fortunate who can hold what his father attained. england has suffered and is suffering from the incompetence of those younger sons of good families who have turned to the church, army, 66and similar professions. in italy the diversity of pursuits is still smaller than in england, and the candidates far greater in number, while the examples of italian priests who have risen to bishoprics, archbishoprics, the cardinal’s hat, and even the pontifical chair are so constantly before them, that men who are really fitted by nature and fibre for the priesthood are crowded out to make way for those who are unfit and never become fit. rome, more than all other cities, sees them in the early stages of their evil progress, and they take on cant, hypocrisy, and prejudice there which, mingled with unscrupulousness, and often with vicious propensities, make them a cloaked harass indeed to the poor people of the parishes in which they are later established.

in the villages of the provinces where the people are poorly educated, the priests have nearly an absolute control of local affairs. i do not mean in any way that pertains to the business of the commune or as to its officials, or the proceedings of law, but the deeper current of life. a newly established school will thrive or fail just as the village priests favor it or inveigh against it. the holidays are the feast days of the patron saints, and it depends upon the priests whether these days are mere occasions for bearing a painted and carved figure of a saint through the streets to be loaded with gifts of money and valuables by the populace, or whether they shall be made occasions of relaxation and communal development to the people. a very great deal of letter-writing is done by the priests for illiterate parishioners, so that much of the correspondence between emigrants in america and relatives at home passes through the priests’ hands. not infrequently priests are money-lenders and take their 67usury just as might the veriest shylock, only that their loan is a “charitable advance to an unfortunate parishioner.” an interesting incident of this sort of thing happened at velletri. an old priest of one of the churches of the town had two brothers for parishioners who desired to emigrate to america. one was named giuseppe and the other giacomo. they had barely money enough for one passage, though giuseppe had a tiny bit of property. both had borrowed money of the old priest before and paid it back with a high rate of interest. they plotted to get even with him. giuseppe turned the care of his bit of property over to giacomo and sailed for america. in a few months giacomo went to the priest and offered as security for a loan of 300 lire the property which did not belong to him. the old priest took a note of temporary conveyance, installed one of his dependents in the property, gave giacomo the 300 lire at twenty per cent per annum, and giacomo went to naples and sailed for new york. at the end of two years the old priest was beginning to consider the property already his, when giuseppe came home on a visit, proved that his brother had no right to offer the property as security, and forced the priest to pay rent for it for two years. giacomo was of course safe from harm in america. giuseppe sold the property and returned, and is now in partnership with his brother in a little business on vine street, cincinnati.

in an effort to maintain in the eyes of their parishioners their own outward show of virtue, priests whose lives have vicious tendencies often commit crimes that are worse than murder. the attitude of the church toward an adulteress is a matter of common knowledge. when it is said that the judging of the 68women of their parish is left in the hands of the priests, and that in small communities a woman disgraced by such judgment has no opportunity of hiding it from her neighbors, the terrible power of the padre can be seen. there is scarcely a community which has not its pathetic story; some have many, and i have heard more than one told in brief whispers as the poor woman who was the object of it passed by. yet, though convinced of her innocence, her neighbors do not dare take up her cause, for fear of bringing on their own heads what has fallen on her.

a son of a well-to-do oil and wine merchant in a certain village was a patron of the priest in charge at the principal church of the town. he was in love with the daughter of the man who sold the salt and tobacco for the government. she refused his attentions, and, though there had never been a whisper of blame against her, one sunday she found that the priest had directed against her the power of the church. she bravely faced the conditions, stepped quietly into her new status in village life, and since then has been living such a life of self-sacrifice and nobility that her very deeds have daily given the lie to the charge against her. since then the son of the oil merchant has ruined his father and fled to australia, and the priest died a miserable death in a torrente into which he stumbled while drunk; but to her is for ever denied everything most dear to a woman.

not so with many other women who come under the ban: though equally innocent, though victims of spite, of distorted circumstances, they fail to support the blow and do become abandoned. the natural current is toward the cities, where they may hide from all who ever knew them in the village.

69it must not be forgotten that this system has been going on in a greater or less degree for centuries, and it has forced the natural attitude of the fathers, husbands, and brothers of the women into one of the utmost watchfulness and jealousy. i have often heard philanthropically inclined americans who went into the italian quarters seeking to do good, complain that the men were exceedingly averse to allowing their wives or daughters to meet strangers, or to have any of the usual liberties of american women. this jealousy is traditional, and is the result of the system outlined above.

another point on which this system may have some bearing is the devotion of the italian women to the church compared with the indifference of the men. in most civilized countries the women are more inclined to be religious than the men, but in italy this is accentuated, and the separation is growing, as the skepticism to which i have referred spreads.

all over southern italy one hears a bitter reference to the decime, the one-tenth of a man’s money which is claimed by the church each year; and though this often works out as not a literal allotment of one-tenth, there are many parishes, where the principal priests are keen business men, that more than one-tenth is extracted, and the tithes take form in labor, vegetables, wine, fruit, fees, etc., but are nevertheless valuable.

it is not a matter of economics and does not pertain to this consideration, if the peasantry of southern italy are such good christians as to give to the use of god one-tenth of their all; but it certainly comes within the scope of this study when that enormous fund goes to support that portion of the priesthood 70which is unworthy and is nothing but an army of hypocritical parasites.

before leaving the subject of conditions in and about rome, the vagabondi should be mentioned. as i have said, the government considers no man a pauper so long as he is able to beg, and the tourist centres have gradually drawn a great collection of professional beggars, who are really artistic in their methods of appeal. they are not satisfied, as is the beggar of naples, with a crust of bread, a sip of wine, and a stone treasuring sun-warmth on which to stretch at night, but go in for better things. at all the points of interest in the way of ruins and the like, which lie in the roman zone, their representatives will be found. the liberality and apparent great wealth of the american tourists have inspired many of these to save enough to emigrate to america, but they have found begging a very poor occupation here, and in several instances of which i have heard have gone to work and are prospering.

in many districts where there are clay banks, sand banks, and other spots where earth materials have been extracted for building or plastic art work, the extraction has been done as if cutting out arched caves, and in these and in the arches of ruins, with boarded-up or plastered-up fronts, thousands of poor families live, making their living by digging in the pits, acting as guides about the ruins, begging, or working on the land as hired laborers.