the mosque of st. sophia and its beauties, and some legends that attach to it—the present state of its courts—the sea of marmora and an historical pageant: genoese, venetians, khairreddin barbarossa and his victories—the story of stout sir thomas bentinck—the palace of justinian and its story: theophane and her husbands—the mosque of achmet—at-me?dan, the former hippodrome, and its story—justin, justinian and theodora, and the blues and greens—justinian ii and his doings—some reflections on modern history.
by the seraglio walls showing the gate by which the sultans used to enter st. sophia, and the dome of st. irene.
by the seraglio walls
showing the gate by which the sultans used to enter st. sophia, and the dome of st. irene.
just without the walls of the seraglio stands a building which above all others is connected with constantinople in the popular mind, the former church, now mosque, of st. sophia. this is one of those particular monuments of history which every one of any pretension to culture wishes to see. a mighty, imposing building, measuring 255 feet from north to south by 250 from east to west. this was the cathedral church of old byzantium built in the twentieth year of the reign of constantine the great, a.d. 325, and dedicated to divine wisdom. constantine’s son constantius enlarged the building, which was destroyed by fire in the reign of arcadius, 395-408, in whose time the goths came down over the hills by adrianople and devastated the land as far as the peloponese. it is said that the faction of st. john chrysostom set fire to this building during one of those religious disturbances which, more than elsewhere in the world, unsettled the minds of men and caused them to overlook the greater truths. theodosius ii, he who built the stout walls that guarded the city of constantine on the landward side for many{62}{61} centuries, re-erected the cathedral in 415, but little more than a century later, in the reign of justinian, it fell a victim to the flames again. twice did this happen in the reign of justinian, the second time during a revolt of different factions in the hippodrome, but st. sophia was rebuilt again in greater splendour and on a larger scale in a.d. 538.
this church of st. sophia became the scene of many solemn state functions and religious ceremonies, the fumes of incense curled round its many pillars of porphyry from phrygia—white marble striped rose-red, as with the blood of atys slain at synada; of green marble from laconia, and blue from lybia. celtic marble quarries sent their tribute, black with white veins, and from the bosphorus came white black-veined marble. among the most beautiful of all these pillars were those eight which aurelius had taken from the temple of the sun at baalbec. then there were monuments of gold, cunningly wrought, enriched with the most precious stones, and about all these glories floated hymns of praise or supplication to the god about whose triune person the citizens wrangled and fought in the hippodrome and in the narrow streets.
legend has it that this work of man’s hand was made yet more glorious by angelic influences. an angel appeared to order the work of the ten thousand men engaged in the reconstruction under justinian; he appeared again, robed in brilliant white, to a boy guarding the masons’ tools by night and ordered an immediate continuance of the pious work, and yet a third time to lead the mules of the treasury into the vaults to be laden with eighty hundredweight of gold wherewith to decorate the sacred fane. one more angel appeared, this time to the emperor himself, clad in imperial purple, wearing red shoes, to ordain that the light should fall through three windows{64} upon the high altar, this in memory of holy trinity. on christmas day of 548 emperor justinian and eutychius the patriarch moved to the newly reconstructed sanctuary with all the pomp and ceremony of the church. no sooner were the doors opened than the emperor ran in with outstretched arms crying, “god be praised, who hath esteemed me worthy to complete such a work. solomon, i have surpassed thee!”
not quite ten centuries later, in may of 1453 at pentecost, the patriarch was celebrating high mass within the walls of st. sophia, the fumes of incense floated heavenward with the supplications of the people, while the turk was battering down the stout defences of the city and the emperor and his followers were falling under the sword of othman about the ruined ramparts. the mass was interrupted and has never since been resumed, for from that day to this the crescent has gleamed on the dome, the high altar has faced towards mecca, and from the attendant minarets the imam has called the followers of the prophet to prayer. to the ancient christian legends of angels the turks have added traditions of their own. near the mihrab is a window facing north; here sheik ak shemseddin, the companion of mohammed the conqueror, first expounded the koran.
roumeli hissar the first fortress built by the turks on european soil. built by mohammed the conqueror, the ground plan being that monarch’s cypher.
roumeli hissar
the first fortress built by the turks on european soil. built by mohammed the conqueror, the ground plan being that monarch’s cypher.
in this feast of bairam, the turkish pentecost, the courts of st. sophia were crowded with turkish soldiery, some wounded, others stricken with cholera, and in and out of the upper gate of the seraglio, through which the sultan was wont to issue for worship in the mosque of sophia, convoys of sick were wending their weary way, soldiers and stores were passing, for the enemy was before the gates—not the old enceinte of the city, but the lines of chatalja stretching from the sea of marmora to the black sea—and he was demanding admission in order to complete the{65} high mass interrupted on that day in may four and a half centuries ago.
after sketching a corner of the enclosure of st. sophia and a bit of the seraglio wall, over which the graceful cupola of st. irene appears, a policeman stopped me for the first time in my experience of this city, but he was satisfied with a sight of my passport, which probably conveyed no definite idea to his mind. i went down towards the sea of marmora to renew my acquaintance with several historic places and to muse over the strange vicissitudes of this city of constantine. it was a fine, clear day, unusually warm for november, and the sea of marmora shone in myriads of sparkling facets under the midday sun. strange stories of ancient days came crowding in upon me. i seemed to see the face of the waters veiled by a cloud of swift-sailing vessels. this strange pageant came up out of the south, genoese, experienced travellers and redoubtable warriors, then venetians, the only seafarers who ever tried the strength of old byzantium’s sea-walls. in double line they came bearing down upon the walls under dandolo, the venerable doge. sailors leapt from the swifter craft and scaled the walls, while from the heavier ships with turrets and high of poop, and from platforms for the engines of war then in use, drawbridges were lowered to the summit of the walls. already the standard of st. mark waved from twenty-five towers and fire drove the greeks from the adjacent defences. but dandolo decided to forgo the advantage he had gained and to hasten to assist the exhausted band of latins who were suffering under the superior numbers of the greeks before the land-walls. the aspect of affairs was so serious that alexius, the emperor, fled with a treasure of some ten thousand pounds to an obscure thracian harbour, basely deserting{66} his wife and people. next came khairreddin, called barbarossa, high admiral of suleiman i. khairreddin was one of four brothers whose trade was piracy, then a most gentlemanly profession. he and his brother urudsh first sailed under the flag of the tunisian sultan, but paid tribute to suleiman. they conquered tunis, algiers, and all the barbary coast, and held these provinces in fief. how many of those overseas possessions now owe allegiance to the porte? charles v, emperor of the holy roman empire, “deutscher nation,” sent genoa’s greatest admiral, doria, with a mighty fleet against khairreddin, but they were dispersed by the eighty-four fast ships of barbarossa, who scoured the mediterranean sea, ravaged the coasts of italy, minorca, even distant spain, beating the combined naval forces of emperor, pope, and venetian republic, off prevesa. khairreddin barbarossa lies buried on the banks of the bosphorus. not long after barbarossa’s day a new sea-power began to make its influence felt; it stretched out feelers towards constantinople, and when amurath ii was sultan the red cross of st. george was seen for the first time from the sea-walls of constantinople. english ships came sailing up from the south bearing messages to the porte from elizabeth, queen of england.
when ibrahim ruled over turkey from 1640-1648 all manner of excesses went unpunished owing to the maladministration of a bad sultan. some english ships lying in harbour were plundered. in those days it was the custom for any one who had received an injury from minister or official to place fire on his head and hurry to the palace. redress for the injury to british ships having been refused by the porte, sir thomas bentinck brought the ships up from galata, anchored them below the palace windows, and lighted fires on every yard-arm. this{67} man?uvre sent the grand vizier hurrying to the ambassador with offers of settlement in full.
there was one place i revisited down by the sea of marmora which tells of evil deeds done one dark night in the days of old byzant. it is the palace of justinian, by some called after hormisdas or hormouz, a persian prince who sought refuge here with constantine the great.
a woman of low origin, theophane, had married romanus ii, the emperor, a man whose short reign added no lustre to the pages of the empire’s history, for he spent his time in idleness. theophane tired of her spouse and killed him by poison, and was minded to reign in the name of her two sons basil and constantine, one five, the other three years old. but the weight of responsibility was too great for her to bear, and she looked about for a strong man to support her. she found one in nicephorus phocas, then accounted the bravest soldier in the land; he was therefore popular with the people. but soon after theophane had disposed of her first husband, and her second, nicephorus, had ascended the throne, the fickle population turned from him and gave evidence of their discontent by stoning him. nicephorus was forced to seek refuge in this palace of justinian, which he had strengthened considerably for his own defence against the people of the city. but fate overtook him, coming from the sea of marmora. one winter’s night in 963, when the gates of the palace were locked and bolted, the windows barred, and as additional precaution the emperor had moved from the room he generally occupied into a smaller chamber, a boat was made fast at the foot of the palace steps. headed by john zimisces, theophane’s lover, a band of assassins entered the palace, they were joined by others hiding in the empress’s chamber; with much cruelty and insult they put nicephorus phocas to death.{68}
to-day as the visitor to constantinople looks out to the sea of marmora over the seaward walls he may see the smoke of foreign warships curling upward—by the asiatic coast a french warship, the sunlight glinting on her many round turrets, some way towards south-west the long hull of a british cruiser against the sky, and further towards the west yet another foreign vessel, austrian, moving slowly, watching events by the lake at the southern ends of the lines of chatalja; for history is in the making here, the enemy is before the gates, turks and bulgarians, with them serbs, are fighting for a settlement of long outstanding accounts.
a deserted street weary soldiers, sick and slightly wounded, trudged past up to the mosque erected by suleiman to commemorate his many victories.
a deserted street
weary soldiers, sick and slightly wounded, trudged past up to the mosque erected by suleiman to commemorate his many victories.
leaving the ruined palace of justinian i made my way up towards the hill on which stands the mosque of achmed, which rises so proudly with its six minarets above the little houses that cluster on the slope. i passed through more ruins on my way, not remains of ancient byzant, but the results of one of the numerous fires to which stamboul is well accustomed, and which it is so ill fitted to control. it was a peaceful spot, and quite deserted but for a very small boy who entertained me with an imitation of a railway engine engaged in shunting, a man?uvre of which whistling was the chief feature. we were not alone for long ere another body of weary soldiers, sick and slightly wounded, trudged past us up to the mosque erected by suleiman to commemorate his many victories. he it was who carried the crescent triumphant through hungary to the gates of vienna, leaving behind him serbs and bulgars in slavery. those very nations have been trying the power of the porte beyond the walls and are longing to enter; it is they who have reduced those turkish soldiers to their present state of misery. the possessions on the southern littoral of the mediterranean sea, which khairreddin barbarossa added to suleiman’s dominions,{70}{69} have been wrenched from the feeble grasp of his successor, and the courtyard of the great sultan’s mosque is crowded with refugees from thrace and macedonia, provinces won by the sword, lost by the sword, and the soldiers sent to defend them are now resting, sick and wounded, in the shadow of the suleimanyeh.
through the gratings of the enclosing wall of the suleimanyeh refugees and soldiers look out at the passersby on to a large space, the theatre of many scenes in the history of ancient byzant. little they know, little they care, for such matters, for their troubles are very present. the refugees have had to leave their homesteads in thrace and macedonia, taking with them their most treasured belongings, leaving the fruits of harvest to the invaders. it is said that fear of their own soldiery rather than of the enemy compelled them to flee. fathers, husbands, and sons of these refugees are among the sick and wounded. one case i know of where a wounded soldier just discharged from hospital set out to find his family, which he heard had migrated to asia minor. whither they have gone he knows not at all, but he has set out on his search, and in his pocket only a dollar, but his heart full of trust in allah.
suleiman built his mosque and its enclosure on part of the former hippodrome, and its erection covered a space of five years, from 1550-1555. st. sophia was taken as model, and relics of the greek empire went to its construction. it looks down on an open space, all that remains of the ancient hippodrome, at-me?dan, as it is now called. several ancient monuments stand here dating from the time of the greek emperors—the obelisk of egyptian granite, a four-cornered shaft some fifty feet high, brought from heliopolis and set up by the emperor theodosius; the remains more curious still of the column of the three serpents, of bronze and about fifteen feet in height.{72} the serpents seem to grow out of the ground, but the illusion is rather spoilt by the fact that they have lost their heads; one of them at least is said to have been struck off by mohammed the conqueror. this column has had an eventful history; it is said to have been taken by the greeks from the persians at the battle of plat?a, 479 b.c., and kept at delphi, dedicated to the oracle, until the time of pausanias. constantine the great then had it removed to his city, and set it up where it now stands.
among the memories that haunt at-me?dan, the hippodrome of old byzant, are strongest those of the days of justinian and theodora his wife. justinian, nephew of justin, a simple dacian who rose step by step to the imperial purple, he and his contemporary theodoric, king of italy, were illiterate, a strange thing in those days when learning was no uncommon thing among all classes. justin sent to dacia for his nephew to train him for high imperial office, and trained him well during the nine years of his reign. so on the death of justin, justinian inherited the throne, and with his many advantages should have proved successful. he was comely of face and of great bodily strength, full of the best intentions and restless in pursuit of knowledge; the wars he undertook he brought to a happy issue, and the laws he framed should have won the gratitude of his people. yet they loved not justinian, and by some this is ascribed to theodora his wife: theodora, the actress, the dancer, justinian’s empress!
two factions, blue and green, influenced the fortunes of constantinople in those days. the green faction employed one acacius as keeper of the wild beasts for their games; he was theodora’s father. on his death the mother brought theodora and her sisters to the theatre, where they appeared in the garb of supplicants. the{73} green faction received them with contempt, by the blue faction they were kindly entreated, so theodora favoured that colour ever after. the details of theodora’s life as actress, dancer, need not concern us; a son was born to her during this period of her existence. many years later the father of the child, when dying, told him: “your mother is an empress.” the son of theodora hastened to constantinople, hurried to the palace to present himself, and was never seen again. for a while theodora lived in seclusion in alexandria, then she had a vision which told her that she was destined to wear the imperial purple; she returned to constantinople, won justinian’s love, and verified the vision’s prophecy.
another justinian, second of that name, played his short part in the history of byzant, in scenes enacted in the hippodrome. in all things different from his great predecessor, for he was feeble of intellect and unable to control his passions, neither was he faithful to his wife, another theodora, whose love saved his life when her brother, the khan of the chazars, bribed by byzantine gold, sought to take it. this justinian ruled with great cruelty, through the hands of his favourite ministers, and succeeded by their aid in braving the growing hatred of his subjects. a sudden impulse, rather than any sense of the justice he habitually outraged, led him to liberate one leontius, a general of great renown, who had suffered unjust imprisonment for several years. leontius, raised to honour and appointed governor of greece, headed a conspiracy which resulted in the populace breaking open the prisons and releasing many innocent sufferers from the emperor’s injustice. then in their thousands an excited populace swarmed to the church of st. sophia, where the patriarch, taking as text for his sermon, “this is the day of the lord,” still further inflamed the passions of the{74} mob. they crowded into the hippodrome, dragged justinian before the insurgent judges, who clamoured for his immediate death. but leontius, already clothed in the purple, was merciful to the son of his former master and friend; so justinian, the scion of so many emperors, was deposed and, slightly mutilated about the face, banished to the crimea.
here justinian waited for revenge while constantinople’s fickle population revolted from leontius and placed apsimar, as emperor tiberius, on the throne. but he failed to satisfy the mob, and so when justinian appeared before the city walls and besieged his own capital with a bulgarian army the citizens opened the gates and re-instated him. so the hippodrome witnessed justinian’s return to power. he sat on his throne watching the chariot race, one foot on the neck of each captive usurper leontius and apsimar in chains, while the fickle people shouted in the words of the psalmist: “thou shalt trample on the asp and basilisk, and on the lion and the dragon shalt thou set thy foot.” on the conclusion of the games leontius and apsimar were led away to execution.
the mosque of st. sophia refugees from thrace, seeking shelter in the courtyard of the mosque of achmet. in the background the mosque of st. sophia.
the mosque of st. sophia
refugees from thrace, seeking shelter in the courtyard of the mosque of achmet. in the background the mosque of st. sophia.
these are some of the strange scenes which the hippodrome has witnessed ere the turk crowned his conquests by the taking of constantinople. here overlooking one end of at-me?dan, where the janissaries used to exercise their horses, is the building which contains many relics of that famous corps; the janissaries are no more, for, like the pr?torian guard, they became a danger to their sovereign. here on at-me?dan the ottoman exhibition was held in 1863. how many changes have taken place in europe since those days when abdul aziz was sultan! the uncalled-for crimean war was scarcely at an end and turkey’s european possessions showed a tendency towards disruption, but things went very well for all that, and no{76}{75} one among the general public noticed the rise of a great power in the north. the year following saw prussia master of schleswig-holstein, two years from then austria had been beaten and the southern german states forced into union by the same power. then by the time another four or five years had passed, the french empire fell, and the german empire became an accomplished fact. roumania, servia, bulgaria have become kingdoms independent of the sublime porte; bosnia and herzegovina are no longer turkish provinces, neither does tripolitana form part of the ottoman empire any longer. over macedonia and thrace the slav enemies of turkey, formerly that country’s vassals, fly their victorious colours. montenegro has occupied part of the adriatic coast, the hellenes have seized saloniki, and foreign warships have landed their contingents in constantinople. beyond the walls of the city which mohammed conquered bulgarians and slavs are clamouring for admittance; within the walls the beaten osmanli troops fill the hospitals, crowd the enclosures of mosques erected by conquering sultans, and die daily by hundreds from neglected wounds, from sickness, above all from that dread asiatic scourge, cholera.