my fellow-passengers in the boat train to constanza—the bosphorus and places of interest by its shores: kavak and the genoese castle, forts ancient and modern—some mention of forgotten deities, and also of races long since dead, who passed by here—the russians and their first visit to the bosphorus—the genoese and their doings in these waters—the giant’s mountain and joshua’s grave—my adventure at kavak, suspected of spying, and a similar experience at badajoz—the castles, anatoli and roumeli hissar—mohammed the conqueror and the siege of constantinople—approaching the golden horn, foreign warships—byzas the seafarer—some legends and tales about ancient byzantium, mentioning important people like alcibiades and philip of macedonia—stamboul and the origin of its name; some of its story—its present troubles.

the roumanian mail-steamer “dacia,” a fast, well-appointed ship, carried me out into the black sea on a clear, dark night, her nose pointing towards the bosphorus. my fellow-passengers by the train conveying me to constanza had tried to fill me with alarm as to the state of constantinople, they spoke of rumoured massacres, and advised me to don a fez, alluded with head-shakings to cholera, and generally warned me against my enterprise. nevertheless, the next morning found me within sight of the entrance to the bosphorus; a pearly grey morning, and the sun drew a flickering path of light from our port bow, broadening into a scintillating expanse of silver on the horizon. groups of turks stood in the bows straining their eyes for a sight of land.

it was an intensely peaceful morning which made it difficult to imagine that behind the blue heights rising out{30} of the water fierce war raged with all its attendant horrors; for there to south-west, beyond the coast fort of kilia, and some fifty miles beyond it, were the lines of chatalja, where the bulgarians were trying to wrest the empire of the east from the palsied hand of the sons of othman. the coast of asia minor emerges from the pearly sea and marks the entrance to the turkish empire from the north. history and legend crowd in upon this narrow waterway, with its little wooden houses by the shore, sombre cypresses guarding them, and the graves upon the slopes, where modern forts and ancient strongholds stand side by side. here to our left on the asiatic side lies anatoli kavak, the poplar of asia, for several poplars stand out above the buildings devoted to the sanitary service of the port. there is a fort at the point trying its best to look modern, and above it, rising to the heights, are the remains of an older civilization, those of the genoese castle. on the opposite bank is roumeli kavak, the poplar of europe, also fortified in the divers manners of many ages. legend and history have been busy in this part of the bosphorus. this narrow passage was formerly known as the straits of hieron, and that name derives from the fact that a temple to the twelve gods stood here. here jason offered sacrifices on his return from colchis. there were also temples to poseidon and zeus, serapis and cybele, but they have vanished with the gods to whom they were dedicated.

the heruli took refuge here after an unsuccessful sea fight off scutari, then known as chrysopolis, and about the same time the goths crossed over from roumeli kavak into asia, and ravaged bithynia up to the walls of nicodemia, but odenatus, commanding the military forces of the east, checked their progress and drove them away to heraklea on the black sea. in the middle of the ninth century russians appeared for the first time,{31} passing down the bosphorus to the city of constantine, but attempted no further than hieron. they came again in the middle of the tenth century under a cloud of sail ten thousand vessels in all, and burned stenia and hieron, but theophanes, the soldier of emperor romanus ii, met and defeated them at hieron. in later years the genoese became powerful and held a strong position at galata; they took hieron and serapeori, and the ruined castle on the heights above anatoli kavak stands as a monument to that enterprising republic. another seafaring republic, venice, which rivalled greece on this highway between the black sea and the mediterranean, troubled the waters between anatoli and roumeli kavak with frequent naval engagements. meanwhile the country was supposed to belong to the empire of the east, and a church was built and dedicated to st. michael the archangel, who was considered peculiarly suited to represent and defend greek interests at hieron. however, those who had assigned to him this duty neglected their own, and so in time had to make way for the turk. he in his turn was now threatened from the north, for but fifty miles away the bulgarians were hammering at the lines of chatalja.

a little further to the south on the asiatic side rises the highest point on the banks of the bosphorus, the giant’s mountain. the turks call it yousha daghi, the mountain of joshua, and no one shares with them the interest in this spot, for here they have thought fit to bury joshua. his grave is here, so who dare doubt; it stands over five hundred feet above the level, is guarded by true believers, and offers to others an opportunity of becoming immune to “need, sickness, or any other adversity.” all the visitor need do to attain to this happy state is to hang a bit of rag on one of the bushes that grow out of the grave, and rags are plentiful in turkey. it is also advisable to{32} walk round the grave several times and wish for something you happen to want. the grave is twenty feet long and five feet broad, and carefully enclosed within a framework of stone.

while taking a sketch of this landscape some years ago, i had my first of two experiences as a suspected spy.

in some countries of europe even the most innocuous traveller is liable to be suspected of espionage as soon as he produces a camera—a bit of paper and a pencil will even suffice to arouse suspicion. strange to say, it is among the so-called great powers that the mania has got the firmest hold of the official world and even of the public.

of course, the lesser powers have not quite escaped contagion, and it is from some of these that i have gained my experience as a suspected spy, for, needless to say, such an habitual traveller as i am is not likely to escape from the effects of the prevailing malaise. fortunately my experiences have been rather amusing than otherwise, and have caused no international crisis, no trembling in the balance of the peace of europe, not even a newspaper paragraph.

but think of what might have happened when i took a pencil sketch of the bulwarks of belgrade! true, those venerable fortifications date from the days of vauban, and are as much use for defence as are the walls of semendria, the old roman castle further down the danube, and moreover the danube powers have long ago agreed not to fortify any place along the river-bank. yet the fortifications of belgrade are jealously guarded; but as it was four in the morning when i took my sketch from on board the danube steamer there was no one about to say me nay, and hence no international complications.

a few days later my peripatetic habits took me to{33} constantinople, and there one day i seated myself on the banks of the bosphorus, asiatic side, and began a sketch of the lovely view before me. there happened to be a more or less modern fort immediately behind me; this, of course, did not concern me. i was deeply engaged in rendering the blue sky reflected in the sea, a stern old genoese castle in the background, which had served its purpose of defence many centuries ago, when two amiable turkish artillery officers came down to the beach and sat one on either side of me. they greeted me kindly and inquired whether i could speak german or french. i replied that i could oblige in either, whereupon they conversed with me in both, mixed, and to my mind not a judicious mixture. we talked of many things, when one of them said, “it is forbidden to sketch here!” and the other endorsed the statement. they quite agreed with me, however, that it would be a pity to stop painting now, as i had so nearly finished, and so our conversation went into other channels. there was yet another turkish officer, who stood some way behind us, shouting in an angry tone and in his own tongue, which, as i understand it not at all, did not trouble me. an occasional pacifying answer from my two neighbours failed of its effect. when i had quite finished my friends helped me to pack up and escorted me past the fort, followed by the sound of the angry voice. my escort explained that the owner of the voice wanted to arrest me and was with difficulty dissuaded; this friendly demonstration moved me to offer hospitality, my escort having casually mentioned that good beer was to be found at a neighbouring café. the escort furtively looked back towards the fort, then sadly shook hands with me and said, “no, he (the angry one, a good moslem) is looking—come again another day.”

my most recent experience showed me that the mania{34} has spread to spain, though happily in a mild form. i suffered from it, so i know; and this is what happened.

at the time i was collecting material for a book on portugal, and to this end the portuguese government had kindly given me a free pass over their railway system. this pass, i found, would take me to badajoz and back, a most excellent reason for visiting the place. the time-table prepared me for a twelve hours’ journey by slow train, but in its being intensely matter-of-fact could not foreshadow the “local colour” which illumined my pilgrimage. the start at 7 p.m. was quite peaceful; i secured a corner seat, and the other corners only were occupied, so we jogged along in no very great discomfort. but only a few stations out of lisbon the peace was broken. a sound of many voices, high-pitched, grew louder as we drew up at a wayside station, it rolled into our compartment in “dense volume” as the door was flung open, and with it came a shower of parcels of all sizes, impartially distributed among us. the fulcrum of this shower (if a shower runs to one) was a stout lady, impelled through space into our midst by some potent agency without. grasping a bottle of wine in one hand, a bottle of water in the other, talking loudly all the while, she alighted (not at all like a bird) on my foot, dropped on to my knee, and slid thence into a seat by my side. followed quickly by her maid, also talking; she settled abruptly on the cap of a cavalry officer opposite to me. but yet more strident tones dominated this babel, proceeding from a stouter lady, volant, who once settled, fitted a number of talkative males into the interstices between huge hat-boxes and other personal effects. the compartment was thus completely crowded, and conversation raged—raged till morning, was raging on the platform at badajoz, when i left for the town. had i been a stranger to the country and its people the{35} intense excitement of my fellow-travellers might have led me to imagine all manner of horrid happenings to unhappy portugal, grim revolution mixed with devastating earthquakes, foreign invasion on one frontier and a tidal wave on the seaward side—as a matter of fact, the ladies were travelling for their health.

all-unsuspecting i passed in at the gates of badajoz, past the guard-house, and made my way towards the south-east of the city, where i hoped to get a good view. i did, and having indulged in an appropriate thrill over the storming of that citadel, proceeded with my legitimate business, sketching. then i wandered round by the river, and began the outline of a mass of crumbling ruins, tumbling down towards the bank. those walls must have been quite useful for defensive purposes many centuries ago, they are now extremely picturesque, and therefore still useful to the peripatetic artist. suddenly a well-modulated voice broke in upon my labours. standing by my side, cap in hand, was a sergeant of the guarda civil, who wished to know whether my excellency, grace, or worship (i do not know what the spanish usted means) had any authorization to take sketches. i admitted that i had none, at the same time appealing to the gentleman as an expert whether my sketches could possibly be considered of any strategical or tactical value. the sergeant modestly declined to judge in such a weighty matter, and requested that i should do him the favour of accompanying him. this i untruthfully expressed myself delighted to do, and so he led me to the guard-house. there was no barred and bolted prison cell for me, in fact i did not penetrate into the interior of the guard-house at all, possibly because a very stout corporal filled up all the doorway. this warrior took a very serious view of the case and said he must fetch an officer; so he majestically passed out of{36} my ken, for i never saw him again. in the meantime i was getting distinctly bored; the sergeant, though most courteous, was no conversationalist, and my knowledge of spanish is strictly limited. after an hour’s delay two gentlemen in mufti passed our way, evidently people of importance, for my sergeant was at once cap in hand, and to them he entered upon a recital about my serious case. one of them understood french, so i showed him my sketch-book and asked him to try and discover anything of military value or importance in it. he failed, but nevertheless suggested that the sergeant and i should call upon the military governor. i hinted that we might have thought of that before, but my sergeant seemed to consider it (thinking) no part of his business.

we waited another hour at the military governor’s palatial official residence, watching spanish soldiers moving in and out in their quick, jaunty manner; smart, well-dressed men they are too. then his excellency the governor came down the steps, and my sergeant, cap in hand, began his story all over again. i burst into it in french and again showed up my sketch-book, his excellency quite agreeing with me that my sketches were singularly harmless from any point of view. perhaps i was assuming more responsibility than becomes a wandering painter when i promised that i would never bring out an english army to upset the walls of badajoz again, though of course i could safely promise never to take part in any such disturbance should it happen again. the governor was thoroughly satisfied with my earnest assurances, and with a generous wave of his arm invited me to draw and paint all badajoz. “would his excellency give me that gracious permission in writing? without it i might be calling again in half an hour’s time and with a fresh escort!” “certainly!” so i became possessed of a{37} document which gave a strange rendering of my name—it described me as one leandro vaca, which latter being interpreted means cow. after this formality we were all extremely polite to each other, we bowed a great deal and said to each other things which we could not have meant to be taken seriously. twice did i meet the governor and his staff in the streets that afternoon, and each time we did the bowing all over again.

two hours of precious daylight had been wasted, so i made up for lost time and sketched everywhere, especially near sentries, as i particularly wished to watch the magic effect of the leandro vaca document. but alas! not one of those sentries could be roused to the least interest in my proceedings; so i took my way back to the station, destroying the document, as the governor had requested me to do so. here ends my “espionage story,” which, not to be behindhand, i have had to put into print myself, no reporter having thought it worth while at the time.

a very different place altogether is therapia, some three miles further south on the european side; the name means “place of healing,” and must have been given to it before the ambassadors of the great powers set up their summer residence by its shore. as i passed by therapia several turkish men-of-war, a small cruiser, a gunboat, and several destroyers were lying peacefully in the small harbour, completely indifferent to the trials of turkey’s land forces, who, only a matter of fifty miles away, were endeavouring to ward off the bulgarians’ blow at the heart of the ottoman empire.

the bosphorus broadens out somewhat at beikos on the asiatic side, and it is on this curving bay that according to legend pollux visited amycus, king of the bebryces, to the latter’s undoing.

the banks draw closer together, clustering wooden{38} houses dipping their stone foundations in the water grow more numerous as the bosphorus winds southward. two castles rise from among trees and wooden houses, one majestically, the other in rather humbler fashion, the former on the european, the latter on the asiatic shore. history lingers round these broken towers, but the battered grey walls looked sadder than when i saw them last, under the grey sky they seemed to mourn the departed glory of the race that built them. the castle on the asiatic side, anatoli hissar, encloses rows of quaint little wooden huts, tendrils of vine stretch across the narrow cobbled alleys from the overhanging roofs, and at the foot of the castle flow the sweet waters of asia. it is a pleasant place in spring, this “valley of the heavenly water,” and one of the loveliest spots on the banks of the bosphorus. to many asiatic poets it has been what the valley of the mondego was to camoens and other sweet singers of lusitania. mohammed i built this castle, and mohammed ii sat here in 1451 watching the growth of roumeli hissar, the castle of europe, on the frontier shore. in three months this castle rose from the rocky slope at this the narrowest part of the bosphorus; thousands of labourers were forced into the service of construction, and the ground plan was the initial letter of mohammed’s name.

when it was finished firaz agha was appointed commander of the garrison of four hundred men, and levied toll on all passing ships, while the emperor of the east sent despairing offers of peace from his purple palace in constantinople. but mohammed ii declined to negotiate, and continued his preparations for the taking of the castle of c?sar. here the forces of othman gathered strength for their great enterprise, hence they set forth on desperate venture. constantinople fell before them, the eastern empire vanished like a dream, and the crescent gleamed{39} over the subject races of the balkan peninsula and carried terror into the hearts of christian countries away to the walls of vienna.

to-day those former subject races, strong and united, have overrun all but the last few miles of the turkish empire in europe; there to westward, at a distance of fifty miles or so, the bulgarians were hammering at the lines of chatalja.

when mohammed the conqueror first began to besiege constantinople he endeavoured to force an entrance by the golden horn; from roumeli hissar to seraglio point his fleet extended, but in vain, for a heavy chain barred the entrance, and beyond it the larger vessels of the genoese and venetians rode at anchor. so mohammed conceived a bold plan in keeping with his character and ability.

from beshiktash—called by the greeks diplokion, the double columns, mohammed caused a road of smooth planks to be constructed; this road led over the heights and down to the western end of the golden horn. it must have been a difficult task, for galata, the genoese fortress, had to be avoided. galata stands in a position somewhat similar to constantinople, on a promontory formed by the hellespont and the golden horn, which bends slightly to the north after passing west of the place where the land wall of theodosius joined the sea-wall, towards the sweet waters of europe. when the road was completed, the planks thoroughly greased, a host of men hauled eighty galleys over it during the night. according to the byzantine chronicler, ducas, every galley had a pilot at her prow, another on her poop, with his hand on the tiller; so, with drums beating time to the sailors’ songs the whole fleet passed along as though it were carried by a stream of water, sailing, as it were, over the land. the next morning{40} these ships were riding at anchor in the upper, shallower part of the harbour, beyond reach of the larger genoese and venetian vessels.

thus the fleet of mohammed the conqueror in 1453, while the turkish fleet of to-day was lying idle, though hundreds of thousands of sons of ottoman were struggling to retain a fragment of turkey’s european possessions.

there were few signs to show that turkey was engaged in a struggle for life as i passed down the bosphorus; here and there were camps, red-brown canvas tents, and over some buildings by the shore the red crescent on a white ground spoke of much-needed comfort for the sick and wounded. it was not till stamboul and scutari hove in sight that i saw anything unusual, but what i saw was remarkably so—the massive hulls of foreign warships. nearer to scutari lay a large french cruiser, black against the uncertain light of a rainy day. scutari and kadi kevi, the ancient chalcedon, as byzas, the founder of byzantium, called it, because the inhabitants of that place must have been blind, or they would have chosen the tongue of land opposite, on the glorious harbour, on which to build their city. scutari, where florence nightingale’s hospital still stands. english ladies are following in that noble woman’s steps here, in constantinople, in this day of affliction for the turkish empire—and are doing so with the bravery and devotion of women of our race.

indeed a sign of evil days when foreign warships are anchored in the golden horn, but the interests of many nations are affected, and the future, not only for the balkan countries, but also for all europe, is big with possibilities.

grey clouds hung over the golden horn as i approached it, the domes of mosques and their attendant minarets stood out darkly against a sullen sky, and the ancient{41} cypress grove that breaks the outlines of the buildings on seraglio point seemed like those who mourn over some great catastrophe. here, on this tongue of land—seraglio point—began the history of this troubled city, this castle of c?sar, throne of the osmanli, which has seen more glory and more gloom, known more high delights and abject terrors than perhaps even eternal rome. while heavy drops of rain fall from a leaden sky on to the steel decks of those grim foreign men-of-war, or splash on the slow-swinging waters of the golden horn, it is difficult to conjure up the scenes of former glories witnessed here by the sun on his daily passage from the east.

the oracle in poseidon’s sacred grove had whispered to byzas the seafarer: “go forth to the country of the blind and build you a city opposite their own—you shall prosper.” silently the ship that carried byzas and his fortunes stood out to sea as aurora touched the high peaks of the peloponese with rosy finger-tips, and called forth colours, carmine and gold, from the unruffled surface of the pearly ?gean sea. bearing ever to the north, byzas and his fellows asked of those they met, “is this the city of the blind,” and receiving no answer, held on their way. he may have been tempted to land on one or other of the prince’s islands, floating on the bosom of the blue sea of marmora, but the spirit within urged him further into the unknown.

perhaps it was twilight when he saw a large city looming on the eastern shore of the narrowing waterway, the city he called chalcedon, for opposite to it he found that entrance to the spacious harbour which is known the world over as the “golden horn.” here byzas, fulfilling the oracle’s prediction, laid the foundations of ancient byzantium, and the city grew and prospered. behind the walls a busy populace increased the wealth and importance of the{42} place, and others came here from afar in search of riches. so ancient byzantium became the mart for those who traded from the west along the coasts of the mediterranean sea, through the dardanelles and the bosphorus away to trebizond, on the black sea, where the old greek tongue yet lingers in its purest form; the crimea opening out cold, inhospitable russia, even distant persia exchanged its wares for the products of the city which byzas had founded.

byzant also assumed great strategical importance, as many of those who came in search of wealth came armed and minded to acquire what they wanted by the sword. chroseos, king of the persians, emerges from the mists of history, and appears for a brief space of time before the walls, with hordes of warriors, trained to ride, to shoot, to speak the truth; spartans and athenians tried the strength of this bulwark of europe, and alcibiades besieged it. in 370 b.c. the athenians, urged on by demosthenes, helped to defend the city against philip of macedonia, and forced him to abandon his intent. it is said that during this siege the macedonians, under cover of a dark night, were on the point of carrying the town by assault, when a light appeared in the heavens to reveal their danger to the inhabitants. rome gained possession of the city before the christian era, and constantine the great, the man of genius, made this his capital in a.d. 330, giving to the city its present name, or rather one of its names, for the turks call it stamboul, or istamboul, probably derived from the greek ε?? τ?ν π?λιν, and to the slavs it is known as tsarigrad, the castle of c?sar.

here in the heart of the eastern empire history, strong, full-blooded, speaks to us from ancient monuments and battered walls. churches arose to mark the religious life{44}{43} of a strongly imaginative people, ruins of palaces still tell of a line of rulers, emperors, sultans who lived their day, worked for good or evil, and passed into the mist of things but half-remembered. alien races found their way hither in search of booty, and dashed out their souls against the city’s strong defences. severus, maximus, and constantinus tried its strength; another persian king, chroseos ii, battled before these walls in 616, and ten years later the avari came with the persians on like enterprise. towards the end of the seventh century a fierce foe, the arabs, came up from the south, and tried in vain to force an entrance into the castle of constantine. they came again, and besieged the city for two years, from 716-18, but were refused a second time.

anatoli kavak where modern forts and ancient strongholds stand side by side.

anatoli kavak

where modern forts and ancient strongholds stand side by side.

about a century and a half later russians came down from the black sea, the prows of their long boats, under a cloud of sail, ploughing up the wintry waters of the bosphorus. they also failed, but repeated the attempt twice in the tenth century, and yet once more towards the middle of the eleventh, only to return northward, baffled and broken.

the city fell for the first time before a host of western christians during the latin crusades under the leadership of dandolo, doge of venice, in 1203-4. these christians pillaged the imperial city, and set up a line of counts of flanders as emperors of the east. after some fifty years the latins were driven forth, leaving constantinople in a state of indescribable misery and desolation; greek emperors returned, but failed to restore the power of the eastern empire, which was sorely tried by the insistent sons of othman. the last greek emperors reigned but two short centuries after the retreat of the latins; then came mohammed the conqueror, and constantinople passed into the hands of the turk. it was during the feast of{46} pentecost, on may 29th of 1453, that constantinople fell before the sword of othman. at this present season the turks were keeping the feast of bairam, their pentecost. again, the superstitious point out another coincidence; both 1453 and 1912 make up the unlucky number thirteen.

before constantinople fell in 1453 the eastern empire had been shorn of all its possessions by the invading turk, and from adrianople, his european capital, he had organized the siege of the city. to-day all that the turk may call his own of the european territory acquired by the sword is the point of land between the black sea and the sea of marmora, on the north and south respectively, the bosphorus on the east, and to westward the lines of chatalja. young nations long oppressed have risen against the power of the porte; greece, the first country to free itself, has marched to saloniki, adding victory on victory; montenegrins, the first to enter on this war, have come down from their mountains, and have taken possession of turkish territory on the adriatic sea; servia poured her warlike sons over the passes into macedonia, and wrenched former possessions of old servia from the fiercely resisting turks; finally bulgaria, that strong, ambitious nation, holds adrianople in a grip of steel, has hurled its young strength against the stubborn turkish defences, and is now on guard at the lines of chatalja, demanding admission by the voice of death-dealing ordnance.

during the turkish feast of pentecost the enemy was at the gates, and the fate of constantinople, the fate of the turkish empire in europe, trembled in the balance.

it is rather a leap from the days of mohammed the conqueror to an evening at the club de pera, but constantinople is a city of strong contrasts. the streets leading from the water-side to the club showed no signs{47} of unusual military activity, there was no appearance of excitement or despondency in the bearing of the inhabitants, and the club, but for a larger gathering of members and the sight of a white crescent armlet, was much as i am accustomed to find it. indeed, men came to me, as the latest arrival, for news from the front and the outside world, for they have to wait for the papers from home, generally four or five days old. it seems strange, but is none the less true, that we here on the spot heard hardly anything of events that are disquieting the rest of europe; we heard but distantly of servia’s stubbornness in face of austria’s insistence concerning the adriatic littoral, we caught but a fleeting rumour of russia’s supposed designs and roumania’s possible peril. all we knew was that brave men were dying by thousands out by the lines of chatalja, some fifty miles distant; the booming of guns carried by the sobbing wind from out of the west brought us tidings of warlike happenings.