having passed over the borders of switzerland and germany, and through the first german town, called friedsburg, i will linger a while at strasborg. it was once the capitol of many provinces. in times gone by, many centuries ago, it was called the roman’s “argentoratum,” and experienced more than a few of the miseries of war. the tallest piece of monumental art the world ever had recorded on the pages of its chronology, not even the tower of babel excepted, is here in this city of over two thousand years old. its name is the munster, and ought to have been monster. it is a church, and was three hundred years in process of erection. it is 474 feet from the earth, and to give a clearer perception of its height, it is 24 feet higher than the pyramids of egypt. in it is that famous clock, made three hundred years ago, which runs yet. this clock might justly have an other half added to its name, clock. many people flock there every day to see its man?uvres. at 12 o’clock, or a few minutes before twelve, wooden men, representing the apostles or priests, come out of the clock, and some inferior personages also, and march a short distance and waits a few minutes to be warned of the hour, then this waited for moment is signalized by a brass cock coming out of the clock on the other side, which flaps its wings three times and crows, after which this group of old men returns to their vestry of study or seclusion, and the clock clicks on as it has done for three hundred years, and the crowd disperses.

the streets are crowded with soldiers, as in paris, and the ladies go about the streets holding up their dresses just the right height to attract attention.

the rain is over, and there is no more attraction in the spicy town of strasborg, so i am going to baden baden, the spiciest gambling place in europe. in the park is a great large building in the shape of a country stable, but full of splendor, called a casino or conversation room, and this conspicuous appellation is conspicuously written on the front of the building. in this open hall—open to all—is gambling hours between each meal. the great gambling table is in the centre with numerous stools, such as are to be found in stuarts, or any other fashionable dry goods store in america. on these stools are all classes of society that like excitement—dukes, earls, marquises, barons, knights, valets, and even liveried coachmen, betting from 5 francs to 10,000 francs. while i was in the casino the prince of prussia broke the bank. only thirty thousand francs is allowed in the bank at once, and if broken no more business or amusement goes on that day in that cassino; but there are others dealing on the same platform.

it is quite amusing to see the anxiety written on the brow of players, and to see the expression of disinterested persons, which we in america term “stuck on the game.” i have seen more excruciating pain come from an outsider by the loss of some pile of gold, than i ever saw come from the expression of the loser. here comes a count who has been betting and losing on another bank, and he came to change his luck. he threw down his last thousand and it won; he let it all stand on the red, and this time it all goes into the bank. he exclaims, “that’s my luck.” then the outsiders would cast an eye of pity on him, and say, he might have known that he would lose it, when the very reason they were not betting, was, they were broke on the same bank perhaps a week ago. i see six beautiful noble ladies betting, with their money snugly piled up before them. their bets generally range from twenty to one hundred francs. but the most amusing part of this crowd’s entertainment is, the airs that the money scampers put on. if a lady or gentleman should win, he pays it with an air of nonchalence and great pleasure; but if he wins, which he is sure to do in the end, he looks very melancholy, as if it were the result of accident, and in his opinion it was very vulgar for the bank to win. i put down a five franc piece, it won; i let the ten stand, it won; i let the twenty stand, it won; i moved it, and it lost, and i quit. he attempted to console me by saying i ought to have let it stand where it was, “what do you bet on now sir,” said he; i don’t bet any more said i, i have already lost five francs. he took me to be a green yankee and said no more to me. another amusing sight was there; it was two more broken american youths, who said they were waiting for mr. peabody to forward them money, and was “sound on the borry.” i did’nt pride myself much here on my nationality, lest i would have some unprofitable fame. one of them owed two weeks’ board in the british hotel. he was mighty polite when he met me in company, and placed me under the truly painful necessity of being introduced to some person of note whom he had himself been a bore upon. he asked me if i was acquainted with the grand duke, at the same time looking over the heads of the players, as if he would call him if he could only get his eye on him. then he insisted on my going down to the other bank, where the chances were better, and where the grand duke of baden would most likely be. i declined all invitations, and got a carriage and went out of town to see the ruins of the erhreinstein castle.

having returned and paid my bill, i left this little german town to go to heidelburg, where once dwelled a good castilian, frederick the 1st, of the palatinate.

james lived between baden baden and heidelberg two or three years, and wrote the two following novels, which gives a better history of these, the castles of heidelberg and erhreinstein, than any other history gives or can be obtained at present. he lived at carlsruth. the grand duke lives at baden baden, and carlsruth, and heidelberg, and he is here now at heidelberg, and was here when my american friend was hunting him in the casino.

tilly, the great french general, blew up the front side of this castle in 1620, since which all its magnificence has been known but as tradition. the picture gallery still remains perfect, that is to say, some wings of it. there is many talented artists now grouped about in its rural halls, for the grass has grown up in them, taking copies of these splendid pictures. the city of heidelberg which this castle overlooks, is quite a large city for a german interior town. i was told by my landlord that its population was upwards of 60,000. the cellar of the old ruins still contains its wine casks. i saw one cask or vat said to hold 60,000 bottles of wine. ten men can dine round a king arthur’s round table on its head. in the cellar is the statue of one of king frederick’s fools, with one side of his face painted green and one half of his hair red, whilst the other is not. he drank eighteen bottles of wine each day and lived one hundred years. father matthew never heard of that juice of such admirable longevity, or it would have clapped the cap on his spouting eloquence. german towns are spicy towns. outside of the city, just across the necker, is to be two duels to-day with short swords, and they fight duels on that duelling ground every day, either students or other citizens. it is considered a small gladiatorial arena. the grand duke is about to leave for carlsruth, and the people are parading with great glee. children women and men are crowding the gates in solid batallions; you would think old zack had come to town.

i am dizzy with reflections of these fast little towns of germany. as i whirl along now towards the cradle of the rothschild’s my brain is rocking its reflective matter from the canton of the quiet and religious swiss here to the burghers of this profane people. but here i am, in the independent little territory of the duchess of darmstadt. each mile-post is painted barber-pole style. this duchess is better known as the duchess of nassau. the cars stopped at darmstadt, and if a good big southern barber’s shop had been here the people all would have gone in it instead of darmstadt by mistake. the gates are barberified in its style of designation.

i saw an american looking out of the cars at these posts until he felt his beard. all at once he threw himself back in his seat, as if he thought the country was too dull to look at, and of course impossible to produce anything sharp enough to take off beards.

frankfort may be strictly termed the capitol of germany; because all the german princes meet here once a year and hold a conference on the great topics of interest to the whole german people. this gathering is called the diet. this diet enacts for the german principalities, some of the most wholesome and sound logical laws that comes from the parliament of any nation of these modern times. frankfort has produced the most sagacious merchants the world ever knew. i have just been to look at goethe’s house. it has stood the scathing weather of the main for five hundred years, but none of the calamities of time have laid their fingers upon it, save a slight decay.

“frankfort on the oder” must not be misconstrued so as to convey an idea of this frankfort. this is generally designated as frankfort on the main. it is a town full of high spirited people, and lively as crickets, but less sedate. business is always good here. each man is in some degree possessed with the ambition of a rothschild. i am going to see the house of the primitive rothschild, and then off to the rhine.

here i am at mainz, on the banks of the rhine. looking at my ticket down the rhine, i see this is the 17th of september, but the weather indicates summer time. this old, dead, but vast town, has the distinction allotted to it of producing the first book printer.

i will not attempt, as most chroniclers, to describe the impression the legend river of europe made on me; suffice it to say that, on every peak, and that is saying a good deal, is the ruins of tyrants, and every hole that is made through these turrets, sends out a woeful wisp of a “blue beard’s wrath,” that quickens the pulse of a modern civilian.

i am now in town, at a great hotel, called disch. here is a very old city, and in old times roman emperors were proclaimed here. the wife of germanicus, aggrippa, the mother of the tyrant that “fiddled” whilst rome was burning, was born here. in this city is a church which has already cost four millions of florins, and is not finished yet. in this church is one of the most imposing pieces of splendor the eye of man ever gazed on. inside of this case of jewels is three skulls filled with jewels. they glitter about in the nose and eyes and ears like moving maggots, and causes man to gaze with amazement upon the peculiarities of the people of german towns. its name is cologne. its modern merit is its production of colognes, not little towns, but the fluid possessing requisite qualifications of admittance to the private apartment of the sweetest virgin.

i must now bring this chapter to a close and go down among the dutch.