the khvamli table mountain seems to stand as a fort between the north and the south, and it is an extraordinary sight. its uppermost two thousand feet are naked of verdure. the grey cliff, a mile long, rises sheer from the crests of a green forest and extends in a regular battlemented array, which suggests a great city wall. on one side of that mountain i found summer, and on the other winter.

it was an extraordinary experience to climb out of an almost tropical summer into a land where the trees were only just budding, and the snowdrop and crocus were in bloom, and where the snow had not yet melted from the road. i had started on a sunday when the weather approximated to that of july; on friday i had reached march, and on saturday i was in mid-winter.

i passed through oni, an unusual town, in which scarcely a new house has been built since the twelfth century, and which is now inhabited by a tribe of mountain jews living in peculiar isolation. this was on thursday afternoon, and i spent the night in an inn 195nine miles north, at the little town of utsera, now fast becoming a popular health resort though a hundred miles from a railway station. it is about the height of mount snowdon, on the fringe of an ancient pine forest. at utsera it was raining on the friday morning. at the next village, glola, a thousand feet higher, the rain was changed for sleet. the road ascends through a fir wood said to be the grandest in the caucasus; the pines are as broad-trunked as some of our famous oaks, and they rise straight as a die to almost incredible height. their ancient hoariness and greyness add to their majestic appearance.

i was now nearing the neck of the mountains and stormy mamison. the rion, broad at kutais, was here but a small torrent. the road, if such it can be called, was traversed by many cascades and broken away by rocks and rivers, so that a horseman could pass only with difficulty. to vehicular traffic it was completely closed. sitting at any point of the road one could count literally scores of uprooted pines. above glola the sun came out, the same hot caucasian sun, though tempered by the cold air, and, as if to pretend that summer was there, the camberwell beauty butterfly (of name obviously not universal) flitted to and fro flaunting its purple and gold. under the pine trees were wild snowdrops thick clustered, and on the roadway even little purple crocuses.

the road became difficult to manage, two bridges 196having been entirely washed away. i had at one point to leap fifteen feet on to a black snowdrift, which i feared might give under me. but i succeeded and won my way to gurshevi. that was the first village of the ossetines, and had generally a bad name. some years ago an explorer and two guides disappeared entirely in this region, and have never been heard of since. and i had an adventure there which greatly alarmed me. i had not stopped at the village; it was difficult of access, being upon a cliff, and i strode forward toward the pass. but a verst forward on the road i was hailed from a distance by four roughs, who demanded a rouble. i hurried on. they called “stop!” but i paid no attention, seeing that they were extremely heavily clad and could not hope to catch me up; they were in a valley about five hundred feet below. the road, however, was extraordinarily tortuous, and if i had only climbed straight up the cliff to the pass i should have saved myself at least five miles walking, and my encounter with the roughs into the bargain. they were able to cut me off and get into hiding among the boulders and rocks above the road. my position was sufficiently dangerous, but i did not guess their intention; they had no guns. fortunately i caught sight of one of them running from one rock to another, and when i came to the district i stopped short and demanded of my hidden enemies what they wanted. for answer a large lump of rock came whizzing 197through the air within two inches of my head. had i been struck i should have been stunned. whilst i was deliberating a second followed, almost more terrifying than the first, and coming with great force, being hurled from above. no one was to be seen. there was but one thing to do. i lifted up my legs and sprinted.

i did not cease running till i was well up the pass and in a region where there were no loose rocks to be found. the snowy peaks had now become unveiled, and the fir forest was left behind. i thought that if i hurried i might get over the pass that day. my assailants were far behind. i did not fear another ambush. what was my surprise, however, to see suddenly in front of me two men walking towards me. their dog rushed at me. i received him with equanimity, being much more afraid of men than of beasts. they told me there was no road for ten versts and would not be for a month, and they advised me to go back to gurshevi. i listened with trepidation and could not believe what they said. i agreed to their advice, however, but said i would rest a little as i was very tired, and bade them go on in front. when they were out of sight i left the road abruptly and struck straight up the turfy bank towards the pass. i crossed the circuitous road three times and came to the region of continuous unmelted snow. i dragged myself through a mile of “slosh,” where a profusion of yellow water-lilies were growing, and for the best part of an hour i strove 198to find the road again. when i found it and followed it i came rapidly to snow too soft and deep to pass; indeed, twenty yards in front the road was perfectly lost in the snow, unmarked by undulation or rift in the even whiteness.

i was desperate, but i felt sure there was a way, for i had heard of hillmen coming from utsera, and had been even counselled to wait for a companion there. i resolved to get a shepherd to show me the way, and with that in view climbed awkwardly downhill to the turfy region, where a flock was browsing. yes, there was a way—one quite different from the road; an ossetine shepherd offered to show me for a shilling. i agreed on condition that he first gave me a glass of milk, for i was exhausted and had eaten nothing since morning. this man was friendly enough, but on consideration he thought it impossible to show me that night. i should have to wait until next morning. i might sleep with them in their koutan if i didn’t mind the filth; they would make a bonfire and a big supper. his mate, gudaev, would play the fiddle; i could sing. he would roast two quails which achmet had killed; they would all have a jolly evening, and to-morrow morning very early he would take me and show me the track. very thankfully i agreed.