germany is a safe country. one is not permitted to lose oneself there. i, for my part, knew not a word of german beyond nicht hinauslehnen, which means: don’t put your head out at the window; but i had no misadventures there. the trains leave punctually, the carriages are all clean, the porters know their duty. one contrast has particularly impressed me. in russia, in second or even in first-class carriages, washing accommodation is very poor. often there is no water, and there is seldom a stopper to the hand-basin. there is a murky mirror but no towel, indeed, no further convenience of any kind. in germany, on the contrary, even third-class accommodation is superb. there is a fresh tablet of soap and a clean towel for each traveller; there is even a comb and brush, if one cares to use them after others. but in russia third-class accommodation is unspeakably filthy, and i think that if one mentioned the idea of soap gratis to a russian official he would frown as if overhearing revolutionary propaganda. surely the germans have the cleanest 16faces among all nations, and their free wash seems to say: “for god’s sake, don’t let a little piece of official soap stand between you and cleanliness.”

but though russian accommodation is inferior in this respect, it has one great excellence: the trains run smoothly over the lines. one can make the whole trans-siberian journey from warsaw to shanghai and be as fit at the end as when one started. the movement of the train is so pleasantly soothing that one slips easily into slumber. indeed, if one wakes in the night and finds the train stopping in a station, one waits and longs for the train to move again; minutes seem eternities. then one is entitled by one’s ticket to the whole length of a seat. no one objects if one undresses, and at least one can always remove collar, boots and overcoat. but german trains are noisy; they jerk and rattle and tear through the night. they compare with russian trains as a motor omnibus might with a child’s cradle. one would stand more chance of sleeping in the inner circle.

i arrived at alexandrovo, the frontier town, at ten o’clock at night, and took train on for warsaw at 1 a.m. my luggage was registered through to kharkov. the customs officer informed me that it had been forwarded and would be examined there. this was on the third day of my journey, and i had had two nights without sleep. it was with a great deal of gladness that i settled myself down in my russian coupé and hoped to 17sleep a few hours. the third bell, the last bell, sounded, and the train moved slowly out of the station and ground itself away over the heavy, snow-covered track. the guards came and punched my ticket; then i lay back and fell fast asleep. the white train moved over the white fields, and the light wind blew the thick snow against the window panes, or wreathed it in the gangways between the corridors. the train moved very slowly, and every quarter of an hour or so stopped. the movement was very weak and gentle, like the pulsation of an old man’s heart. when it ceased, it seemed to have paused through utter exhaustion. i was suddenly awakened by a touch on the shoulder. i opened my eyes and saw a man bending over me. i could have sworn he had been picking my pockets. he smiled unamiably and asked a question in german. getting no answer he tried polish; i replied in russian. he wanted to know where i was going to, and whether i was a german.

this man afterwards robbed me. next time i woke up my heavy overcoat was gone. i had hung it on a peg beside me, and when i looked for it it had disappeared. and the smiling pole who had been sitting opposite had also disappeared. new people were in the compartment. in fact, the moment i woke there were two men standing beside me and kissing one another frantically. the train had stopped at a station. i was dazed. i thought i was, perhaps, 18at warsaw already. i was assured warsaw was a long way off, and then i discovered the loss of my coat.

the chief guard assured me the coat would be recovered. if i would give him a rouble he would have the train searched. he took down notes of what i said and pocketed the money, but the thief got clear away. the flickering candle that illuminated the carriage was burning out. it was so dark that one could not be sure whether anything were lost or not. my astonishment was great when i looked under the seat and saw a man lying there—a man with a smell. the guard came in at that moment and we hauled the stowaway out. i thought it was the thief for certain. he was brought out and searched. he was a tatterdemalion, out at knees and out at elbows, thick with grease and dirt. his feet were wrapped up with sacking, tied round with rope, and the rest of his attire was uncured sheepskin. he hadn’t any ticket and was going to warsaw. he offered the guard twopence as a bribe, but the latter frowned terribly and asked whether i would care to have him arrested. he whispered to me aside that he felt quite sure we had caught the thief or an accomplice. if i would give him two roubles he would make a declaration at the next station. i should get my coat in a week at least. but i dissented, for i felt quite sure such a disreputable-looking character as the moujik we had hauled out was incapable of stealing a handsome 19overcoat. so the guard accepted twopence from the man in lieu of a ticket, and was fain to disappear.

russian trains are well heated. it is only when one steps out at a station that one realises how cold it is. i soon began to realise what the loss of my coat meant. at kharkov there were forty degrees of frost. the further into russia the colder it became. my only protection was a light summer overcoat and a plaid rug. my gloves, together with a voluminous silk muffler, had been left in the pockets of the coat that was stolen. when i went out at kharkov the cold struck in on all sides, and my moustache and eyebrows froze to solid ice at once.

calamity followed close upon calamity. my registered luggage was nowhere to be found. the customs officer was of opinion that it had been delayed on the line. if i would leave ten roubles with him he would look after it and forward it some time after christmas.

the cup of misery seemed filled to the brim. for i was deprived of all my clothes but the rough travelling things i stood up in. i pictured to myself what a strange, shabby christmas guest i should appear.

it was the 23rd of december, according to the old calendar; the morrow would be christmas eve, and all shops would be shut. i went out into the town and made good some of my deficiencies.

i had still a hundred-mile journey to make before i 20reached lisitchansk. the train left at 9 p.m. i telegraphed to my friend, asking to be met, and then went off to buy a ticket. the booking-office clerk would not issue tickets until he could be sure that the train would be run. the last express from sevastopol had arrived ten hours late.

i waited until midnight, and then at last a notice was put out intimating that the train would start. so i purchased my ticket and took my seat, and at two in the morning we moved slowly out. my impression of that train is that everyone, including passengers, guards and driver, was drunk. it was crowded with people going home for christmas. it was so crowded that there seemed to be no intention on the part of anyone to sleep, and i could not get a seat to myself. at length, however, a very friendly, though tipsy, little russian made an arrangement with the occupants of a ladies’ compartment, and i got an upper shelf there to lie upon.

when i awakened it was broad day and the train had stopped finally. a lady on a shelf opposite was reading a novel. no one else seemed to be in the carriage. i learned from her that we were snowed up. all the men employed to keep the line clear were dead drunk. no further progress would be made until after dinner. there was a forest on the right-hand side, full of wolves, the girl said. i went along to the men’s compartment and found that everyone had adjourned 21to a farm-house near by to get dinner. evidently thieves were not feared in that part of the country. i followed the others to the house and had a good hot dish of cabbage soup. it was a one-room cottage, and was packed with people. the clamour was deafening. i think the family must have had an unusually large supply of vodka, for the number of christmas healths drunk was at least treble the number of guests.

at about three o’clock the engine-driver, who was so drunk that he could not stand up, was lifted into the engine and he set the train going. scarcely anyone was in the train, neither people nor guards, and there was a rush to get on. but only about six were successful; the rest were all left behind. we, at the farm-house, had no chance whatever. somebody said, “the train is starting,” and there was a stampede. every vodka glass was drained, the singing stopped, and the shouting and the step-dancing, and everyone rushed out into the snow without, as far as i could see, paying a farthing to the good woman of the house. but no one stood any chance, and when i got out at the door the train had travelled a hundred yards. the snow was a foot deep, and nothing short of a pair of skis would have enabled anyone to cross it in the time.

que faire!

i pictured to myself the train arriving at sevastopol without passengers or guards, and i wondered what would happen to all the unclaimed wraps and bags, and 22how many roubles it would cost to get them out of the lost property office. i could afford to smile. most of my property was already lost. among the other passengers there was consternation. they were like a pack of frightened children, whispering in awe-stricken whispers. two men insisted on telling me their fears—fears of missing their christmas, fears of exhausting the vodka supply, fears of wolves, fears of freezing, and a fat man, who had fallen in the snow, kept punctuating their remarks with:

“devil take me! lord save us!”

there was nothing to be gained by remaining where we were, so i set out along the railway lines with six others who could walk. the next station proved to be about four miles distant, and after three quarters of an hour we came in sight of it. and in sight of the train! we had walked very seriously and solemnly, like convicts marching to the mines. i, for my part, felt like freezing to death. but at the sight of the train we all burst into exclamation. the russians gesticulated and waved their handkerchiefs. then suddenly we thought it might start out before we reached it. the russians began to run in that peculiar way all foreigners run—as if someone were after them. we arrived in time, feeling pleasantly warm.

i thought when the engine-driver had been remonstrated with he would have backed the train to the wayside stopping-place. but no, he said there was no 23time, and in ten minutes he started us off again. i have never heard how they fared, these unfortunates who were left behind.

late in the evening i arrived at lisitchansk, and nicholas, my london acquaintance, was actually there waiting for me. he had brought a large fur cloak and rugs. a little pony-sledge was at hand. we fitted ourselves in tightly and gave the word to the driver, who whisked us off through the keen air.

in twenty minutes we had climbed up the steep slope to the village and threaded our way through the broad streets to the cottage of my friend.