caught in a snowstorm—via the santa clara and rio virgen to the muddy—news of sad disaster to the emigrant company—making charcoal and nails—an apostle as a blacksmith—searching for water on the desert—crossing an alkali stream—discover gold near salt springs—hurrying on over the desert—cattle poisoned at bitter springs—killing animals to relieve their sufferings—first wagon over cajon pass, going west—severe journey to the summit of the pass—all get over safely—sense of great relief—grass and water in abundance—overtaken by survivors of the emigrant company—their story of terrible suffering—divide provisions with them—celebrating christmas, 1849—continuing the journey north—spanish warning in a cemetery to indians—cruelty of the spaniards to the indians—the writer placed in charge of the company—directed to go to the gold mines.

when the company had separated the weather was very threatening, and it soon began to snow very fast. we pulled on until late in the afternoon, and camped on the mountain. next day we came to some indian farms where the savages had raised corn, wheat and squash. we passed on to the santa clara, followed it down for three or four days, and found a written notice to those who came that way: "look out, for we have killed two indians here." with this warning, we felt that we must keep a vigilant guard all the time. from the santa clara we had a very long drive across the mountain and down a long, dry, rocky slope until we came to the rio virgen. we went along that stream three or four days; where we left it we found a cow with an indian arrow sticking in her. we next passed over a high plateau to a stream well named the muddy. there we laid by and doctored and shod our lame cattle.

while we were on the muddy, brother c. c. rich and party came down the stream to us, bringing sad and heartrending news from the great emigrant company, which had broken into factions and become perfectly demoralized and confused. some had taken packs on their backs and started on foot, their cattle dying, their wagons abandoned. all were despondent, and unwilling to listen to anybody. i think, from the best information we ever got of them, i would be safe in saying that four-fifths of them met a most horrible fate, being starved or choked to death in or near what was afterwards called death valley. in after years the miners of pahranagat found the irons of the wagons very handy for use in their pursuits.

on the muddy we burned charcoal and made nails to shoe our cattle, having to throw the animals down and hold them while apostle c. c. rich shod them. brother rich did his work well, for the shoes never came loose till they wore off.

from the muddy i accompanied captain hunt and henry rollins twelve miles and found some small pools of water about two miles to the right of the trail; i went back to turn the packers to it, while captain hunt and henry rollins went ahead in search of more pools of water and found some. george q. cannon and i stayed there as guides for the wagon train, and turned them off to the water. when the train arrived, about 11 o'clock p.m., we had to dip water with cups and water the stock from buckets. then we pressed on till daylight, made a halt long enough to take breakfast, and pushed on, for there was no feed for our stock.

about 2 p.m. we came to the los vegas, where we rested a day, then continued our journey over mountains and across dry deserts from day to day until we reached a stream of water about three rods wide. it was so strong with alkali that we dared not allow our cattle to drink of it, but put the lash to them so that they could not get a sup as we crossed it twice. thence we traveled across a very sandy desert for twelve miles to the salt springs, where the train went around a point of the mountain. a. pratt and i, with three or four others, followed on a small trail that passed over a notch of the mountain. while going through a narrow pass, brother a. pratt said it looked as if there might be gold there. at that we went to looking in the crevices of the rock, and in a few minutes one of the party found a small scale, and then another. among the rest, i saw the precious metal projecting from a streak of quartz in the granite rock. from there we went over about one and a half miles to the salt springs, and met with the teams. several of the party journeyed back to look further for the gold. i took along a cold chisel and hammer, and chipped out some at the place i had found, but as our teams were weakening very fast and there was neither food nor water at that place to sustain our stock, we had to push on across the sandy desert of seventy-five miles, day and night, until we came to the bitter springs.

these were the springs that captain hunt had told the emigrant company about before they left salt lake city, that from thence it was "away hellward to california or some other place." it certainly began to look that way now, when our cattle began to weaken and die all along the trail. the springs would have been as properly named if they had been called poison springs, instead of bitter, for it seemed that from that place our cattle began to weaken every moment, and many had to be turned loose from the yoke and then shot to get them out of their misery.

we had to shoot one of brother pratt's oxen to end its suffering. this act fell to my lot. oh, how inhuman and cruel it seemed to me, to drive the patient and faithful dumb animal into a barren desert, where there is neither food nor drink, to goad him on until he falls from sheer exhaustion, so that he bears any punishment, to make him rise, that his master sees fit to inflict, without giving a single moan, then to walk around and calmly look him in the face and fire the deadly missile into his brain, then leave his carcass to the loathsome wolves and birds of prey!

in looking back over a period of fifty years since then, the writer cannot call to memory a single act in his life that seemed so cruel and ungrateful as that; and still there was no earthly means to save the poor creature from a more horrible death, which would have come if he had been left in that driving snowstorm, when his whole frame shook with cold, there to lie and starve—one of the most miserable deaths that the human mind can conceive of. of the two evils we chose the least by ending the suffering in a moment, when it would have taken hours if it had not been for this act of mercy, as we call it after taking in the whole situation.

from bitter springs our team took the lead to the end of the journey, or to williams' ranch, being the first team that ever crossed over the cajon pass going west, as i remember. ascending to the first pass from the bitter springs our situation was most gloomy. in mud and snow, with darkness come on, every rod of the road became more steep and difficult. the summit was two miles ahead and the nearest team half a mile back. we moved by hitches and starts, and could only make three or four rods at a time. two of us pushed at the wagon while the other drove. our guide was a few feet ahead, marking out the road, and saying, "crowd up, boys, if possible. let us wallow on over the summit, for it is our only salvation to cross and try to open the road if possible for the weaker teams."

finally, with a shout of triumph, we reached the summit in two feet of snow, at 11 o'clock at night. our guide told us to go on down and build fires at the first place where we could find anything for our stock, and he would go back and cheer the rest on as best he could.

the descent being quite steep, we soon made the distance of three or four miles to where there was but about six inches of snow, and where we found some feed. our matches were all damp, and we were wet as could be. we split up our spare yoke and struck fire with flint and steel, crawled into the wagon, and started a fire in the frying-pan. then, as there was plenty of fuel, we made a roaring fire outside, took a bite to eat, and turned in for a few moments' rest, being satisfied that the others of the party had halted before they reached the summit, and as the guide was with them we thought they would take a rest and come on at daybreak.

this conjecture proved right, for about 4 o'clock a.m. captain hunt hallooed to us and called for a cup of coffee. he seemed to be chilled to the bone, so we soon stirred the fire and got him something to eat. he told us all the teams would make the riffle, but for us to have a good fire, for some of the men would be chilled nearly to death. then he directed us to go ahead until we found feed for the stock, and he would remain until the company came up. we advanced about ten miles, and halted for our cattle to feed and rest. in the meantime we discovered the company coming down the slope of the mountain. our feelings, as well as theirs, were much relieved at the sight, as we beheld each other, and when they had rested their teams they came on to our camping place for another stop, while we moved ahead to the mohave river. when we reached that stream, i presume that we felt as pleased as a man liberated from a life sentence in a dungeon, for we had reason to feel assured that we would succeed in our journey, as we had only one more hard scramble of thirty miles, and had pleasant weather and plenty of feed and water for our stock, with time to rest in. some shouted: "daylight once more; thank god for our deliverance!"

it was while we lay here that some of the company which had parted with us at the rim of the basin came up to us with packs on their backs, half-starved. the story of the condition of their comrades was horrifying beyond description. men, women and children suffered death alike by thirst and starvation. this painful episode affords one more instance of where the majority had been wrong and the minority right. the new arrivals said that when we parted from them they were sorry for us. but now we were more sorry for them than they had been for us.

we divided our food the second or third time to relieve these starving people, then pursued our course up stream for nine or ten days. there we rested our cattle, did some hunting, and replenished our food supply with wild meat, principally venison, quail and the gray squirrel. we found plenty of wild grapes, and also discovered that the raccoon lived in that part of the world.

it was about the 17th of december when we crossed the cajon pass, in the sierra nevada mountains; from thence we moved via the cocomonga ranch to williams' ranch, arriving there on december 24th. at williams' we found c. c. rich and party; we joined in with them and had a good christmas dinner. there we traded for new supplies to last us up to the gold mines on the mariposa and the stanislaus rivers, in northern california, or the upper country. the writer acted as pilot, interpreter and quartermaster for the company of something like fifty men.

it was about the 27th of january when we left the ranch, from which we traveled to los angeles, thence twenty miles to the north, where c. c. rich and ten or fifteen men left us, and h. egan took charge of the company as captain. we followed up the santa barbara road at the rate of fifteen miles per day. the roads were very rough and hilly. the whole country was still in a very wild state. we were frequently warned to be on our guard for bandits, which were said to be roaming in the locality. we passed in peace, however, nothing out of the general routine happening until we arrived at the san antonio mission. the alcalde invited me into the chapel. to me, at that time, it seemed to be very grand, so attractive was the decoration. the alcalde then opened the gates of the cemetery, in which i saw a pillar of burnt adobes with four indian skulls on it, for the rest of the indians to see what they might expect if they committed any outrages on the citizens.

from all that i have learned about spain's treatment of the red men, it has been very cruel, yet the spaniards claimed their methods were necessary in order to christianize the aborigines. at that time the indians in california were more cruelly treated than the slaves in the south; many of them had scars on their backs ten or twelve inches long, caused by the lash of the spaniards.

we continued our journey up towards san francisco until the 11th of february, when we arrived at a town called the mission san juan. there we received a letter from apostle c. c. rich; it was dated february 8, 1850. the mission was old and dilapidated, and at that date was occupied by a very rough class of men. the surrounding country was very beautiful and fertile.

about 7 o'clock that same evening captain howard egan assembled the company together, and called on the writer to take charge. then he went forward to overhaul the company that had preceded us. next morning we continued on our journey, crossing a deep stream of water, and going to near fisher's ranch, where we received a few lines from captain egan, ordering us to stop the ox teams and forward the mule teams to san jose to get provisions. we obeyed, and purchased a beef animal and dried the meat.

when captain egan returned to camp he told me that apostle c. c. rich thought i had better continue with the company on to the mines, until i saw or heard from him again. accordingly i did so.

retracing our steps about four miles, we turned to the left on a trail that led us to gilroy's ranch, thence to rancho pacheco. there we met a frenchman who directed us across the mountains. meantime our company appointed six of us to precede the wagons and mark out the road, as we were again entering into a wilderness with no roads except indian and wild animals' trails.