assistants in shops.—i do not think it is generally known how valid the claim of the girls employed by the large linendrapers is to the much-disputed title of "young lady." at all the houses where i have inquired, i find that a large proportion of the girls are daughters of professional men, the fathers of the remainder being for the most part farmers and clerks; they are all fairly well educated, possess good manners, and if their conduct is not above reproach they are immediately dismissed.
i give particulars of five representative houses. i think the rules of others of the same class will be found very similar. all the particulars have been furnished me by members of the firms, and in many cases i have also made inquiries of the young ladies who are employed. their universal opinion is that92 they are much better off than they would be if they were governesses; in fact, many of them have been governesses, and have given it up from the difficulty of obtaining comfortable engagements. their evenings are entirely at their own disposal, and they are allowed to go away from saturday until sunday night or monday morning, if their employers know where they are going. at very nearly all the shops i mention the girls are allowed to sit down excepting when they are engaged in serving. the good feeling existing between employers and employed seems to be very general.
i heard no complaints from either side; the heads of the firms all seemed to think they could not do too much for the comfort of their employés, and they on their side seemed fully sensible of the kindness with which they are treated. their sitting and bed rooms are all spacious and airy, and their food, which on two occasions i had opportunities of inspecting, plentiful and good.
all the firms employ large numbers of women who do not live in the house, but i shall not give any particulars respecting them, as they are of quite a different class to those i am writing for.
messrs. howell and james, regent street, employ twenty-five ladies in their establishment, who live in the house. when their contemplated alterations93 and improvements are made, each young lady will have a separate bed-room; they have very pleasant sitting-rooms, and a library and piano are provided for their use.
the hours of work are from 9 to 6, saturdays until two, and they all have a fortnight or three weeks' holiday in the summer. the salaries vary from ￡20 to ￡200 a year. apprentices are received for three years; they live in the house, and pay a premium of ￡40. improvers are also taken. all applicants must have good references and manners, and be well educated.
messrs. lewis and allenby, regent street, employ seventy ladies in the house, twenty-four in the show-rooms, and the rest in the workrooms. they take neither apprentices nor improvers, and all the young ladies who apply to them must previously have received a thorough training. hours of work are from 8.30 until 6.30, saturdays until 2. they have three weeks' holiday after the london season. their house has lately been rebuilt, and the rooms are everything that can be desired; two young ladies usually share a bed-room. a piano, and house library, besides a subscription to mudie's, are provided for the use of the young people.
the salaries range from ￡25 to ￡200 per annum. a doctor calls every day to see any one who may be94 ill, and anything he orders is immediately provided at the expense of the firm.
messrs. marshall and snelgrove, oxford street and vere street, employ seventy ladies in their show-rooms. the hours of work are from 8.30 until 6.30 in the winter, or 7 in the summer; saturdays until 2. sixteen days' holidays are allowed after the season. no apprentices are received, and the salaries vary from ￡20 to ￡150 a year. about ninety or a hundred girls are also employed in their work-rooms, at salaries of from ￡15 to ￡100 a year.
messrs. venables, high street, whitechapel, a very old-established firm, employ twenty-five in the house, at salaries of from ￡20 to ￡200 per annum. the hours of work are from 9 till 7 in winter, until 7.30 or 8 in summer, saturdays until 3 o'clock. a fortnight's holiday is given every year. apprentices are taken for two or three years at a small premium, which is usually returned as a bonus for good conduct. there is a bagatelle and a billiard table, a piano, and a library of 2,000 volumes, for the use of the employés. not more than four girls are ever expected to share the same room.
messrs. spencer, turner, and boldero, lisson grove, employ seventy ladies. the working hours are from 8.30 until 7, and they have a fortnight or three weeks' holiday in the year. the95 salaries are from ￡5 to ￡100 a year. apprentices are received for two years without a premium, and their friends are only required to provide them with clothes. in one large room five young ladies sleep, but as a rule there are not more than three or four in a room.
only the young ladies in the show-rooms are allowed to sit down; it would interfere too much with business if those behind the counters were provided with seats. i asked two of them if they found the continual standing affect their health; they said girls for the first month found it very trying, but after that they become used to it, and, excepting in very hot weather, did not mind it at all. cases of serious illness are very rare in all the establishments i have visited. at the last two shops i have mentioned the class of customers is very different from the others; but, with that exception, i believe the young ladies employed are equally comfortable.
teachers of cookery.—at the national training school for cookery in the exhibition road, south kensington, ladies are taught to be efficient teachers of cookery, and, as a rule, do not find it difficult to obtain engagements. the school board employs a considerable number, and pays them at the rate of ￡60 a year.
teachers of cookery can now pass through a full96 course of twenty weeks' training in cookery and practice in teaching at the national training school for cookery, south kensington. the fee is ￡20. teachers of plain cookery only can now pass through a course lasting ten weeks; the fee is ￡8 8s.
students in training are expected to attend evening classes, held by staff teachers, once a week. a student in training for a teacher first passes as a pupil through the scullery and demonstration classes. this takes (working every day except saturday) one month, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., with an interval from 12 to 2 for rest and luncheon. at the end of the month her note-books are to be examined and corrected. she then spends one month learning in the plain cookery practice kitchen, and a fortnight in teaching there what she has already learnt. she next goes into the high class practice kitchen, and spends one month in learning and a fortnight in teaching. the last month is devoted to practice in demonstrating, first a fortnight in private, and lastly a fortnight in public, for which the lady superintendent has drawn up careful and strict rules; they are hung up close to where the student stands, to give her demonstration.
during her course of training the student can, if she likes, dine with the other pupils for 1s., or, if that is beyond her means, she is allowed to purchase any97 little dish that has been cooked as a lesson, at a nominal charge.
the staff teachers receive ￡75 per annum and their dinner at the school while employed in london. when sent to reside out of london they receive a further sum of 20s. a week for board and lodging, and all their travelling expenses; one months' notice on either side to terminate the engagement. when the staff teachers are all employed a few extra teachers are taken on as improvers at ￡1 a week, as this fits them to fill good appointments in the provinces when they offer. these engagements are terminable by a week's notice on either side.
the work of a teacher on the staff varies somewhat according to the nature of her appointment—i.e., if employed in the school itself she will have to be in her kitchen by 9.30 a.m. to see that her kitchen-maid has everything in proper order for the pupils to begin work at 10 a.m. the lessons end at 4 p.m. the teacher would, in most cases, be able to leave the school at 5 p.m.
if a staff teacher is sent to the provinces, the hours of work in that case depend greatly upon the local committee who for the time being employ her, but the number of hours of work are limited to twenty-four in the week, to be distributed by arrangement with the local committee and the teacher. if98 nominated for training, the candidate must not be under eighteen nor exceed thirty-five years of age. she will be admitted either by payment of fees or by subscriber's nomination. she must be sufficiently educated to be able to perform the duties of an instructor after the special training.
the diplomas of teachers are of two classes. students, according to the class of diploma they have obtained, will be recommended to the public desirous to employ teachers, preference being given to teachers in the highest class.
the conditions of admission are:—
(a) that the student agrees to obey all the rules of the school laid down by the executive committee.
(b) that for any infraction of the rules the student may be discharged at a day's notice, without having a claim of any kind upon the school.
(c) that if after training the student proves competent (of which the committee are sole judges), and her services be required, she will be prepared to accept an engagement on the staff of the school, at a salary ranging from ￡1 to ￡2 weekly; but it is to be clearly understood that the committee are not responsible for finding any paid employment for the student while in the school, or afterwards, the employment of teachers certified by the school resting wholly with the public.
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teachers, while on the staff, and employed in the school, are not free to take any engagement without leave from the committee, given in writing. teachers holding diplomas not on the staff are free to make any engagement for teaching they may think fit, and may refer to the lady superintendent, who will give additional information as to their qualifications when required to do so.
any subscriber to the school of ￡1 1s. has a right to a vote, and twenty votes admit a candidate to a full course of training, so that to become a subscriber is an excellent opportunity to be charitable, and oblige, possibly, a friend at the same time.
i think if, in addition to teaching cookery, ladies were able also to lecture on the elements of physiology and the laws of health, they would more readily find engagements, and be able to command better salaries. unfortunately, at present there is no place where they can be examined as to their capabilities, and receive certificates, which would be most desirable. they can, however, acquire the necessary information by reading and attending some of the excellent courses of lectures on the subject that are frequently held in london; they are generally advertised in the daily papers.
music.—no lady should take up music as a profession unless she has sufficient talent to justify her100 in expecting to be a first-rate teacher and performer. the profession is overstocked to a most painful extent already with second-rate teachers, and, speaking roughly, i should say there are very nearly as many people anxious to teach music as there are people to be taught. in the one branch of class-singing, i believe there is a large demand for good lady teachers, as they are most difficult to obtain, and any really competent persons may be sure of obtaining engagements at good salaries. for any one with exceptional talent a thorough training is the great thing to be desired, and this can be obtained at the royal college of music, kensington gore, where a free musical education, in all its branches, is given for five years, to any one who can obtain a scholarship. many of these are open to public competition, without any limit of age. the school does not provide board or lodging, though i believe some of the scholarships carry with them exhibitions for maintenance. the year is divided into three terms, and there are twelve weeks of vacation. students, when competent, are allowed to give lessons or perform in public during their spare time. no engagements are guaranteed at the end of the course of study; but the authorities do all in their power to secure them. for further information respecting the scholarships, &c., application should be made to the registrar at the school.
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royal academy of music, tenterden street, hanover square.—at this academy, also, pupils are thoroughly trained in music.
students are admitted at the commencement of each term and half-term. candidates for admission must attend for examination, bringing music they can perform, at eleven o'clock on the saturday before each term or half-term, with a recommendation from a subscriber, a member, an associate, or an honorary member.
the fee for examination is ￡1 1s., which is returned on the admission of the candidate. candidates residing at a distance from london may be primarily examined by any one of the local examiners, from whom they may obtain information and advice respecting the academy. one or more local examiners (whose services are honorary) are appointed in every principal town of the kingdom.
the year is divided into three terms, and there are thirteen weeks of vacation.
the annual fee for the entire course of study is 30 guineas, or 10 guineas per term, with an entrance fee of 5 guineas.
the course of instruction includes two weekly lessons in a principal study, one in harmony, one in a second study, when deemed desirable, one in elocution for singers, and the advantages of the sight-singing102 class and violin quartet class, and the orchestral and choral practices.
all payments must be made in advance. on leaving the academy students may undergo an examination. should the examination prove satisfactory they will receive a certificate, and in special cases the additional distinction of being made an associate of the institution.
there are a great many free scholarships attached to this institution; inquiries about them should be directed to the secretary at the academy.
the london academy of music, st. george's hall, langham place, regent street, is designed for vocal and instrumental students, amateur and professional, desirous of receiving a complete musical education in this country from the best london professors on the moderate fees of the continental institutions.
students can select either harmony, pianoforte playing, singing, or any other branch of the art, as their principal study, and receive individual instruction in that branch from one of the principal professors; they will in addition receive instruction in two other branches.
the year is divided into three terms, each term consisting of twelve weeks' instruction. a lesson is given once a week in each branch of study, students103 residing at a distance can receive all their lessons on one day. the fee for each student is 5 guineas per term. this includes a whole course of instruction necessary for a complete musical education. french, german, italian, elocution, and deportment, are all extras. the fee for each is ￡1 1s. per term. a fee of ￡3 3s. is charged for students desirous of attending the operatic class and the drawing and painting class.
all fees are required to be paid in advance. candidates for admission as students must show that they possess sufficient ability to profit by the course of study, and are required to attend at the academy before the commencement of the term at which they desire to be admitted in order to be examined by the principal. the examination fee is 5s. there are several scholarships; these entitle their holders to one year's free instruction, or to two years' instruction by paying half fees each term.
further particulars can be obtained at the office, st. george's hall.
printing.—a women's printing office has been established at 21b, great college street, westminster, where only female apprentices are taken. in answer to my questions, the girls said they liked the work much, and found it very interesting; it is necessary that they should read and spell well, and have some104 knowledge of punctuation. the apprenticeships are for three years, and the premium is ￡2, which is returned in wages, as they commence after the first month, at the rate of 2s. 6d. per week, rising to 10s. by the end of the three years; after that time the amount earned depends upon the worker's industry and quickness; the average earnings are from ￡1 to ￡1 10s. a week. the hours of work are from 9 till 6.30, with an hour's interval for dinner; all the workers, including apprentices, are paid extra for overtime.
several other printers employ women, but when men are employed as well the women are not usually paid at the same rate, and the premium in most cases is ￡5. messrs. bale, of 87 and 89, great titchfield street, have taken girl apprentices for many years, and mr. bowden, of red lion street, has done the same. miss emily faithfull was the first to introduce printing as an occupation for women in england, and has employed them for some time at her victoria press, in praed street, paddington.
dressmaking.—a lady, trading under the name of grace and co., has recently started a business at albany house, 259, vauxhall bridge road, s.w., with the following avowed objects:—
i. to provide work for ladies who do not desire charity.
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ii. to afford ladies the means of thoroughly qualifying themselves in cutting, fitting, and making-up dresses of every description
iii. to give employment to those who have become qualified in work-rooms, in their own homes, and in the houses of those willing to treat them as ladies.
iv. to aid those who may be considered competent in opening branch establishments.
v. to assist those who are qualified and desirous of emigrating in finding suitable colonial engagements. workers will be required to give satisfactory references. they must be good needlewomen, and forward a sample, which will not be returned. the object of this undertaking is to provide remunerative employment for those requiring it; so all those employed are expected to conform heartily to the rules which are essential to success in business. one of the partners can always be found at albany house, and will be pleased to see any one interested in the work.
plain needlework.—classes for ladies are held at 7, fitzroy street, fitzroy square each course consists of ten lessons in plain needlework and cutting out in alternate lessons, according to the german method of teaching in schools. tickets for one course, ￡1 1s.; to ladies who take more than one course a reduction of 5s. will be made for each additional106 course. tickets are not transferable. each lesson lasts an hour and a half.
ladies anxious to start in business for themselves, or to obtain situations as overlookers of workers in wholesale houses, are frequently at a loss to know where they can obtain the necessary knowledge. the firm of hamilton and co., co-operative shirtmakers, 27, mortimer street, london, is willing to take young ladies to train in business habits and a knowledge of what is expected from forewomen of workers, for a year, at a premium of ￡5, to be returned in instalments after the first six months. the knowledge of what work really is, and the punctual habits that might be acquired in that time, would prove very valuable to any one wishing to engage in business on their own account.
at many of the large city warehouses ladies could, if they liked, be employed in the work-rooms as machinists, plain-needleworkers, feather-dressers, and to make up artificial flowers and lace goods. in the last-mentioned occupations their taste would be a great advantage. the only objection to ladies being employed is the class of girls they would have to associate with; but of course they need have no acquaintance with them outside the work-room. the work is usually paid for by the piece, and the earnings of tolerably quick workers are from 14s. to107 18s. a week. the hours of work are from 9 to 7, with an hour's interval for dinner, half an hour for tea, and a quarter of an hour for luncheon.
the plain needlework can in many cases, if the worker likes, be done at home. apprenticeships are necessary for some kinds of the work required, but no premium is charged, the girl is only expected to give her time for a few months. this may be difficult at first, but in the end it is always an advantage; the skilled workers can always be tolerably certain of getting employment.
school board visitors.—a few ladies are employed by the school board to go to the children's homes and to make inquiries as to the cause of their absence from school; they are paid from ￡60 to ￡75 a year. the duties are frequently very unpleasant indeed, as their visits are considered an intrusion, and are often deeply resented by the parents; but as no special qualifications are required, i dare say many ladies would be glad to obtain the situations. application should be made to the secretary, school board office, victoria embankment, london.
minor food productions.—a ladies' association has been recently formed for the promotion of horticulture and of minor food production. they are anxious to establish a college for108 ladies where theoretic and practical instruction would be given, and scientific training in horticulture and arboriculture, poultry-raising, dairy work, bee-keeping, etc. to carry out this plan a freehold farm is necessary, together with sufficient funds to secure a well-organised system of instruction. it is believed by the promoters of this scheme that country life may be made healthy, interesting, and profitable, by a wise application of intelligence and capital; and that by so doing many openings to beneficial and healthy occupations may be found for women of the higher and lower classes, both at home and in the colonies.
many millions of money are annually paid by great britain to foreign countries for various articles of food, a large part of which could be equally well raised at home, if the best methods of their production were more widely known and acted upon.
this association is still quite in its infancy, but a committee has been formed to act as a means of communication between ladies desiring instruction in the various branches of minor food production and ladies and gentlemen competent to give the necessary teaching. letters addressed to the honorary secretaries, miss thorn or miss may thorn, southover grange, lewes, sussex, will receive attention. i believe109 these ladies have already tested the scheme themselves, and found poultry and pig keeping decidedly remunerative.
machine knitters.—a great many girls are employed in working knitting-machines. they have to give a short time to learn how to manage the machine, and then their earnings are from 10s. to 15s. a week. the hours of work are generally eight a day, but these vary with the season. this trade is not overstocked.
hairdressing.—this is a very suitable occupation for women, and it is a great pity they are not more extensively employed. messrs. truefitt and douglas are still the only two large firms where girls are employed in dressing ladies' hair. mr. h. p. truefitt, 13, old bond street, tells me he always trains the young women in his own workshops, and that a moderately apt girl is ready to take her turn in the hair-dressing saloon in six or nine months. their average earnings are from 32s. to 35s. weekly. hours of work are from 9.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. mr. douglas's (also of bond street) rules are almost the same. the last set of girls mr. truefitt trained were ladies, and he found the intelligence they brought to bear on their profession and the difference in their address to ladies much appreciated.110
perfumery.—mr. eugene rimmel, 96, strand, employs 60 young women in making-up valentines, scent-packets, &c., and in gumming labels on to bottles, packing violet powder, bottles of scent, and in various other ways. their wages begin at 8s. a week and rise to 21s. the work is quite light and easy. the hours are from 8 to 1, and 2 to 7.30. the young ladies he employs to serve in his shops have rather higher salaries. they begin at 10s. a week, and rise to ￡2.
stationery work.—most of the wholesale stationers employ large numbers of women. the firm that kindly furnished me with the following particulars employs 100. they go as apprentices for two years, paying a premium of a guinea, and they receive in wages, for the first six months, 1s. a week; during the second, 2s. 6d.; the third, 5s.; during the fourth, and last six months, 7s. 6d. a week. after that time their wages vary from 10s. to 15s. a week. they are employed in book folding and sewing, stamping paper, and in various other ways. the hours of work are from 8.30 to 7; saturdays until 1.30. an hour is allowed them for dinner, and two short intervals of from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes for luncheon and tea.
superintendents in laundries.—it is desired to employ ladies as superintendents of laundries. the111 work is not at all disagreeable, as, of course, they are not expected to do any of the washing; only they must have a thorough knowledge of how it should be done, including the proper amount of soap, starch, &c., to use. the salaries are about ￡80 a year, as well as board and lodging. application should be made to some of the large laundry companies.
artificial flower making.—large numbers of women are employed in this trade. they should begin very young, immediately they leave school, and it is a great advantage to them if their fingers happen to be pointed. a large west end firm where i made inquiries employs 60 or 70 women. the hours of work are from 9 till 8, with an hour and a half's interval for refreshment; on saturdays they cease working at 2. the wages vary from 14s. to 22s. a week. to learn the business it is usual to give a few months; no premium is expected. the large city houses, i believe, pay by the piece. making common flowers is very unhealthy work.
feather making.—girls are not generally apprenticed to this trade, but begin to learn it when they are very young. their wages commence at 2s. or 2s. 6d. a week, rising eventually to 15s. or ￡1. the hours of work are from 9 to 7, out of which time112 half an hour is allowed for dinner, and half an hour for tea.
jewellery.—women are employed in most manufacturing jewellers' as polishers. they are apprenticed for two years without a premium, but during that time they receive no wages. afterwards they are paid from 5d. to 8d. an hour, according to their skill. the hours of work are usually nine a day, from 8.30 to 1, and from 2 to 6.30.
jewel case makers.—the apprenticeship for lining jewel cases is generally four years without premium. the first year the girls receive no salary; the second, 3s. a week; the third, 5s.; and the fourth year, 8s. weekly. the average wages after that time are from 18s. to 30s. a week, and work is very regular and certain, although the trade is small. for covering cases the apprenticeship is three years. wages begin after the first six months, at 3s., rising until during the last six months of their time they receive 8s. a week. their earnings afterwards are from 14s. to 22s. a week. the hours of work are from 8.30 till 8. saturdays until 4.
gold and silver burnishing.—girls are apprenticed to this trade generally for three years, sometimes paying a small premium, sometimes none at all. they113 give their services for the first year, and are generally paid 3s. or 4s. a week the second; and from 8s. to 10s. the third. after that time their wages are from 14s. to 18s. a week, but a really good burnisher, if she could get sufficient gilt-work to do, would make as much as 25s. a week. the hours of work are from 9 till 8; an hour allowed for dinner, and half an hour for tea. they are expected to provide their own tools at a cost of from ￡3 to ￡5, but these will last a life-time, and improve by using.
dentistry.—manufacturing dentists employ girls in making false teeth. the wages are generally from 15s. to 18s. a week. an apprenticeship of from 18 months to two years is necessary, and the premium greatly depends upon the position of the dentist. some are glad to teach girls simply for their services.
map mounting.—mounting maps is tolerably easy work, and requires no special knowledge, only great care and neatness. employment can be obtained from map-shops, and the wages are usually about 15s. a week.
concertina makers.—manufacturers of concertinas employ girls at about 25s. a week wages. an appren114ticeship of a year is necessary. the premium is ￡10 10s.
addresses of manufacturers of all the things i have mentioned will be found in the post office directory.