in 1484 diogo cam, a portuguese navigator, first sighted the mouth of the congo river. four centuries have since elapsed, and only now have14 we the definite knowledge of the course of that mighty flood. seven years after the discovery of the river, an embassy was sent to the capital of the congo country, known as san salvador; roman catholic missionaries followed, who in time penetrated some 250 miles into the interior. they made, however, san salvador their head-quarters and cathedral city, but were finally expelled by the governor of angola some 130 years ago. they appear to have kept away from the river; what records of their work remain throw no light as to its course. the slave trade flourished in the mouth of the river, but interiorwards the land remained unknown.

in 1816 captain tuckey was commissioned by the admiralty to endeavour to solve the mystery, and was instructed to ascertain whether there was any connection between the niger and the congo. this ill-fated expedition penetrated to a distance of 150 miles from the coast. and this was the extent of our knowledge of its lower course until recently.

in 1871 dr. livingstone, travelling westward from the lake tanganika, discovered a great river flowing northward, called by the natives lualaba. after three and a half months he returned to the tanganika, and finally striking south, died at ilala,15 on the south of lake bangweolo, the upper waters of the congo-lualaba, in april, 1873.

lieut. cameron, commissioned by the royal geographical society to carry fresh supplies and aid to dr. livingstone, met his dead body being conveyed to the coast by his faithful servants. continuing his journey with the material he hoped to deliver to the doctor, he crossed the tanganika, and reached nyangwe, the point where dr. livingstone had first sighted the lualaba. he would have followed the course of the mysterious river; but was unable to induce his men to attempt the solution of the problem, and striking southwards skirted the lower edge of the congo basin, and reached the west coast at benguela in november, 1875.

in 1874 the daily telegraph and new york herald combined to send mr. stanley to africa, to complete the geographical discoveries of dr. livingstone.

in les belges au congo, the excellent christmas number of le mouvement géographique, the official organ of the international african association, we have a sketch of the life of the greatest living explorer. born at denbigh, in north wales, in 1840, john rowlands lost his father at two years of age; he was educated at the parish school of st. asaph.16 at the age of sixteen he worked his passage to new orleans, where he obtained employment in the house of a merchant named stanley. he rose rapidly in favour and esteem, until the sudden death of his employer destroyed his hopes. assuming the name of his benefactor, henry moreland stanley was enrolled in the confederate army when the war of secession broke out in 1861. he was made prisoner at the battle of pittsburg, in 1862, but effected his escape. constantly exposed to arrest as an escaped prisoner, he engaged himself as a sailor in the federal marine, in which he obtained rapid promotion, becoming secretary to the captain of the ticonderoga, and later held the same position under the admiral.

he accompanied his vessel on a european cruise, and obtained his discharge at the end of the war. he was next correspondent of the missouri democrat, and the new york tribune, and later became travelling correspondent to the new york herald, for which he accompanied the british forces during the abyssinian and ashantee wars. after those he made a journey through asia minor, the caucasus and persia to india, thence by egypt to spain, where he received his commission to find livingstone.

that successful expedition marked him as the17 man to carry on further exploratory work in africa; and when the news of dr. livingstone’s death reached europe, fired with the desire to carry on the work of the great doctor, he gladly accepted the commission of the daily telegraph and new york herald.

starting from zanzibar november 17, 1874, he circumnavigated the lakes victoria nyanza and tanganika for the first time, carefully charting. thence he struck across to nyangwe. in spite of the obstacles and difficulties that had hindered others, his immense determination, his resources, and knowledge of the swahili language, enabled him to induce his men to follow him down the river.

he recalled to their minds the long weary marches, the terrible dank forests of urega, how easy it would be to sit in canoes, and paddle down this great river, which must flow into the sea. they agreed, and met the first serious impediment to navigation at the equator, where a series of seven cataracts in forty miles caused them to transport their canoes overland round these obstacles.

clear of these stanley falls they had an uninterrupted course for 1,060 miles, the river widening out in some places to as much as twenty-five miles in breadth, studded with low sandy tree-covered18 islands. as he neared the end of this grand reach of waterway, hills appeared, the river narrowed, and the banks grew steeper until they towered a thousand feet above him. the river widened out once more into a pool some seventy miles in circumference, which is now named stanley pool, at the western end of which the explorer heard the thunder of the ntamu cataracts. from this point his difficulties were to be of a different nature. along the 1,000 miles of clear waterway which he had just passed, he had been exposed to the constant attacks of wild, fierce savages, now he had to struggle with a wilder, fiercer river. the next one hundred miles occupied four months. dragging his canoes overland, past the ntamu cataracts, he took once more to the water, only to find another cataract a few miles lower down. this was his constant experience, while the porterage past these obstacles often involved the conveyance of his heavy canoes, stores, etc., 700 and 1,000 feet up the steep banks of the river, four or five miles overland, and down again into the deep gorge. stores were running short, food was scarce, canoes were lost in the rapids, some of his men were drowned, including frank pocock, his only surviving white companion. privations, sickness, and murderous natives had19 thinned his ranks, but he struggled on. clearing the ntombo mataka falls, he found a reach of ninety miles of very bad, but navigable water, and at the end of which were the great isangila falls. there, learning that he was within a few days’ journey of factories and white men, he left the river, and his weary company toiled over the steep quartz hills and reached mboma in august, 1877, in an almost starving condition. a year of drought and great scarcity of food had added much to his difficulties. however, the journey was accomplished, the congo river had been traced, the highway into the heart of africa had been explored. taking his people down the last quiet sixty miles of the river, he arranged for their return to zanzibar, via the cape of good hope. having seen them safe home again, and rewarded their devotion and toil, he reached england to announce his great discovery.