market of mexico—great temple—interior sanctuaries—spanish quarters

1519

four days had elapsed since the spaniards made their entry into mexico. whatever schemes their commander may have revolved in his mind, he felt that he could determine on no plan of operations till he had seen more of the capital and ascertained by his own inspection the nature of its resources. he accordingly, as was observed at the close of the last book, sent to montezuma, asking permission to visit the great teocalli, and some other places in the city.

the friendly monarch consented without difficulty. he even prepared to go in person to the great temple to receive his guests there,—it may be, to shield the shrine of his tutelar deity from any attempted profanation. he was acquainted, as we have already seen, with the proceedings of the spaniards on similar occasions in the course of their march. cortés put himself at the head of his little corps of cavalry, and nearly all the spanish foot, as usual, and followed the caciques sent by montezuma to guide him. they proposed first to con{311}duct him to the great market of tlatelolco, in the western part of the city.

on the way, the spaniards were struck, in the same manner as they had been on entering the capital, with the appearance of the inhabitants, and their great superiority in the style and quality of their dress over the people of the lower countries.[354] the tilmatli, or cloak thrown over the shoulders and tied round the neck, made of cotton of different degrees of fineness, according to the condition of the wearer, and the ample sash around the loins, were often wrought in rich and elegant figures and edged with a deep fringe or tassel. as the weather was now growing cool, mantles of fur or of the gorgeous feather-work were sometimes substituted. the latter combined the advantage of great warmth with beauty.[355] the mexicans had also the art of spinning a fine thread of the hair of the rabbit and other animals, which they wove into a delicate web that took a permanent dye.

the women, as in other parts of the country, seemed to go about as freely as the men. they wore several skirts or petticoats of different{312} lengths, with highly-ornamented borders, and sometimes over them loose flowing robes, which reached to the ankles. these, also, were made of cotton, for the wealthier classes, of a fine texture, prettily embroidered.[356] no veils were worn here, as in some other parts of anahuac, where they were made of the aloe thread, or of the light web of hair, above noticed. the aztec women had their faces exposed; and their dark, raven tresses floated luxuriantly over their shoulders, revealing features which, although of a dusky or rather cinnamon hue, were not unfrequently pleasing, while touched with the serious, even sad expression characteristic of the national physiognomy.[357]

on drawing near to the tianguez, or great market, the spaniards were astonished at the throng of people pressing towards it, and on entering the place their surprise was still further heightened by the sight of the multitudes assembled there, and the dimensions of the enclosure,{*} thrice as large as the celebrated square of salamanca.[358] here were met together traders from all parts, with the products and manufactures peculiar to their countries; the goldsmiths of azcapozalco, the potters and jewellers of cholula, the painters of tezcuco, the stone-cutters of tenajocan, the hunters of xilotepec, the fishermen of cuitlahuac, the fruiterers{313} of the warm countries, the mat-and chair-makers of quauhtitlan, and the florists of xochimilco,—all busily engaged in recommending their respective wares and in chaffering with purchasers.[359]

{*} [ante, p. 288, note.—m.]

the market-place was surrounded by deep porticoes, and the several articles had each its own quarter allotted to it. here might be seen cotton piled up in bales, or manufactured into dresses and articles of domestic use, as tapestry, curtains, coverlets, and the like. the richly stained and nice fabrics reminded cortés of the alcayceria, or silk-market, of granada. there was the quarter assigned to the goldsmiths, where the purchaser might find various articles of ornament or use formed of the precious metals, or curious toys, such as we have already had occasion to notice, made in imitation of birds and fishes, with scales and feathers alternately of gold and silver, and with movable heads and bodies. these fantastic little trinkets were often garnished with precious stones, and showed a patient, puerile ingenuity in the manufacture, like that of the chinese.[360]{314}

in an adjoining quarter were collected specimens of pottery coarse and fine, vases of wood elaborately carved, varnished or gilt, of curious and sometimes graceful forms. there were also hatchets made of copper alloyed with tin, the substitute, and, as it proved, not a bad one, for iron. the soldier found here all the implements of his trade: the casque fashioned into the head of some wild animal, with its grinning defences of teeth, and bristling crest dyed with the rich tint of the cochineal;[361] the escaupil, or quilted doublet of cotton, the rich surcoat of feather-mail, and weapons of all sorts, copper-headed lances and arrows, and the broad maquahuitl, the mexican sword, with its sharp blades of itztli. here were razors and mirrors of this same hard and polished mineral, which served so many of the purposes of steel with the aztecs.[362] in the square were also to be found booths occupied by barbers, who used these same razors in their vocation. for the mexicans, contrary to the popular and erroneous notions respecting the aborigines of the new world, had beards,{315} though scanty ones. other shops or booths were tenanted by apothecaries, well provided with drugs, roots, and different medicinal preparations. in other places, again, blank books or maps for the hieroglyphical picture-writing were to be seen, folded together like fans, and made of cotton, skins, or more commonly the fibres of the agave, the aztec papyrus.

under some of the porticoes they saw hides raw and dressed, and various articles for domestic or personal use made of the leather. animals, both wild and tame, were offered for sale, and near them, perhaps, a gang of slaves, with collars round their necks, intimating they were likewise on sale,—a spectacle unhappily not confined to the barbarian markets of mexico, though the evils of their condition were aggravated there by the consciousness that a life of degradation might be consummated at any moment by the dreadful doom of sacrifice.

the heavier materials for building, as stone, lime, timber, were considered too bulky to be allowed a place in the square, and were deposited in the adjacent streets on the borders of the canals. it would be tedious to enumerate all the various articles, whether for luxury or daily use, which were collected from all quarters in this vast bazaar. i must not omit to mention, however, the display of provisions, one of the most attractive features of the tianguez; meats of all kinds, domestic poultry, game from the neighboring mountains, fish from the lakes and streams, fruits in all the delicious abundance of these temperate regions, green vege{316}tables, and the unfailing maize. there was many a viand, too, ready dressed, which sent up its savory steams provoking the appetite of the idle passenger; pastry, bread of the indian corn, cakes, and confectionery.[363] along with these were to be seen cooling or stimulating beverages, the spicy foaming chocolatl, with its delicate aroma of vanilla, and the inebriating pulque, the fermented juice of the aloe. all these commodities, and every stall and portico, were set out, or rather smothered, with flowers, showing—on a much greater scale, indeed—a taste similar to that displayed in the markets of modern mexico. flowers seem to be the spontaneous growth of this luxuriant soil; which, instead of noxious weeds, as in other regions, is ever ready, without the aid of man, to cover up its nakedness with this rich and variegated livery of nature.[364]

i will spare the reader the repetition of all the particulars enumerated by the bewildered spaniards, which are of some interest as evincing the various mechanical skill and the polished wants, resembling those of a refined community rather{317} than of a nation of savages. it was the material civilization, which belongs neither to the one nor the other. the aztec had plainly reached that middle station, as far above the rude races of the new world as it was below the cultivated communities of the old.

as to the numbers assembled in the market, the estimates differ, as usual. the spaniards often visited the place, and no one states the amount at less than forty thousand! some carry it much higher.[365] without relying too much on the arithmetic of the conquerors, it is certain that on this occasion, which occurred every fifth day, the city swarmed with a motley crowd of strangers, not only from the vicinity, but from many leagues around; the causeways were thronged, and the lake was darkened by canoes filled with traders flocking to the great tianguez. it resembled, indeed, the periodical fairs in europe, not as they exist now, but as they existed in the middle ages, when, from the difficulties of intercommunication, they served as the great central marts for commercial inter{318}course, exercising a most important and salutary influence on the community.

the exchanges were conducted partly by barter, but more usually in the currency of the country. this consisted of bits of tin stamped with a character like a t, bags of cacao, the value of which was regulated by their size, and, lastly, quills filled with gold dust.[366] gold was part of the regular currency, it seems, in both hemispheres. in their dealings it is singular that they should have had no knowledge of scales and weights. the quantity was determined by measure and number.[367]

the most perfect order reigned throughout this vast assembly. officers patrolled the square, whose business it was to keep the peace, to collect the duties imposed on the different articles of merchandise, to see that no false measures or fraud of any kind were used, and to bring offenders at once to justice. a court of twelve judges sat in one part of the tianguez, clothed with those ample and summary powers which in despotic countries are often delegated even to petty tribunals. the extreme severity with which they exercised these powers, in more than one instance, proves that they were not a dead letter.[368]

the tianguez of mexico was naturally an object{319} of great interest, as well as wonder, to the spaniards. for in it they saw converged into one focus, as it were, all the rays of civilization scattered throughout the land. here they beheld the various evidences of mechanical skill, of domestic industry, the multiplied resources, of whatever kind, within the compass of the natives. it could not fail to impress them with high ideas of the magnitude of these resources, as well as of the commercial activity and social subordination by which the whole community was knit together; and their admiration is fully evinced by the minuteness and energy of their descriptions.[369]

from this bustling scene the spaniards took their way to the great teocalli, in the neighborhood of their own quarters. it covered, with the subordinate edifices, as the reader has already seen, the large tract of ground now occupied by the cathedral, part of the market-place, and some of the adjoining streets.[370] it was the spot which had been consecrated to the same object, probably, ever since the foundation of the city. the present building, however, was of no great antiquity, having been constructed by ahuitzotl, who celebrated its dedication, in 1486, by that hecatomb of victims of which such incredible reports are to be found in the chronicles.[371]{320}

it stood in the midst of a vast area, encompassed by a wall of stone and lime, about eight feet high, ornamented on the outer side by figures of serpents, raised in relief, which gave it the name of the coatepantli, or “wall of serpents.” this emblem was a common one in the sacred sculpture of anahuac, as well as of egypt. the wall, which was quadrangular, was pierced by huge battlemented gateways, opening on the four principal streets of the capital. over each of the gates was a kind of arsenal, filled with arms and warlike gear; and, if we may credit the report of the conquerors, there were barracks adjoining, garrisoned by ten thousand soldiers, who served as a sort of military police for the capital, supplying the emperor with a strong arm in case of tumult or sedition.[372]

the teocalli itself was a solid pyramidal structure of earth and pebbles, coated on the outside with hewn stones, probably of the light, porous kind employed in the buildings of the city.[373] it was probably square, with its sides facing the cardinal points.[374] it was divided into five bodies or{321} stories, each one receding so as to be of smaller dimensions than that immediately below it,—the usual form of the aztec teocallis, as already described, and bearing obvious resemblance to some of the primitive pyramidal structures in the old world.[375] the ascent was by a flight of steps on the outside, which reached to the narrow terrace or platform at the base of the second story, passing quite round the building, when a second stairway conducted to a similar landing at the base of the third. the breadth of this walk was just so much space as was left by the retreating story next above it. from this construction the visitor was obliged to pass round the whole edifice four times in order to reach the top. this had a most imposing effect in the religious ceremonials, when the pompous procession of priests with their wild minstrelsy came sweeping round the huge sides of the pyramid, as they rose higher and higher, in the presence of gazing multitudes, towards the summit.

the dimensions of the temple cannot be given with any certainty. the conquerors judged by the eye, rarely troubling themselves with anything like an accurate measurement. it was, probably, not much less than three hundred feet square at{322} the base:[376] and, as the spaniards counted a hundred and fourteen steps, was, probably, less than one hundred feet in height.[377]

when cortés arrived before the teocalli, he found two priests and several caciques commissioned by montezuma to save him the fatigue of the ascent by bearing him on their shoulders, in the same manner as had been done to the emperor. but the general declined the compliment, preferring to march up at the head of his men. on reaching the summit, they found it a vast area, paved with broad flat stones. the first object that met their view was a large block of jasper, the peculiar shape of which showed it was the stone on which the bodies of the unhappy victims were stretched{323} for sacrifice. its convex surface, by raising the breast, enabled the priest to perform his diabolical task more easily, of removing the heart. at the other end of the area were two towers or sanctuaries, consisting of three stories, the lower one of stone and stucco, the two upper of wood elaborately carved. in the lower division stood the images of their gods; the apartments above were filled with utensils for their religious services, and with the ashes of some of their aztec princes, who had fancied this airy sepulchre. before each sanctuary stood an altar, with that undying fire upon it, the extinction of which boded as much evil to the empire as that of the vestal flame would have done in ancient rome. here, also, was the huge cylindrical drum made of serpents’ skins, and struck only on extraordinary occasions, when it sent forth a melancholy sound that might be heard for miles,—a sound of woe in aftertimes to the spaniards.

montezuma, attended by the high-priest, came forward to receive cortés as he mounted the area. “you are weary, malinche,” said he to him, “with climbing up our great temple.” but cortés, with a politic vaunt, assured him “the spaniards were never weary”! then, taking him by the hand, the emperor pointed out the localities of the neighborhood. the temple on which they stood, rising high above all other edifices in the capital, afforded the most elevated as well as central point of view. below them, the city lay spread out like a map, with its streets and canals intersecting each other at right angles, its terraced roofs blooming like so{324} many parterres of flowers. every place seemed alive with business and bustle; canoes were glancing up and down the canals, the streets were crowded with people in their gay, picturesque costume, while from the market-place they had so lately left a confused hum of many sounds and voices rose upon the air.[378] they could distinctly trace the symmetrical plan of the city, with its principal avenues issuing, as it were, from the four gates of the coatepantli and connecting themselves with the causeways, which formed the grand entrances to the capital. this regular and beautiful arrangement was imitated in many of the inferior towns, where the great roads converged towards the chief teocalli, or cathedral, as to a common focus.[379] they could discern the insular position of the metropolis, bathed on all sides by the salt floods of the tezcuco, and in the distance the clear fresh waters of the chalco; far beyond stretched a wide prospect of fields and waving woods, with the burnished walls of many a lofty temple rising high above the trees and crowning the distant hilltops.[380] the view{325} reached in an unbroken line to the very base of the circular range of mountains, whose frosty peaks glittered as if touched with fire in the morning ray; while long, dark wreaths of vapor, rolling up from the hoary head of popocatepetl, told that the destroying element was, indeed, at work in the bosom of the beautiful valley.

cortés was filled with admiration at this grand and glorious spectacle, and gave utterance to his feelings in animated language to the emperor, the lord of these flourishing domains. his thoughts, however, soon took another direction; and, turning to father olmedo, who stood by his side, he suggested that the area would afford a most conspicuous position for the christian cross, if montezuma would but allow it to be planted there. but the discreet ecclesiastic, with the good sense which on these occasions seems to have been so lamentably deficient in his commander, reminded him that such a request, at present, would be exceedingly ill timed, as the indian monarch had shown no dispositions as yet favorable to christianity.[381]

cortés then requested montezuma to allow him to enter the sanctuaries and behold the shrines of his gods. to this the latter, after a short conference with the priests, assented, and conducted the spaniards into the building. they found them{326}selves in a spacious apartment incrusted on the sides with stucco, on which various figures were sculptured, representing the mexican calendar, perhaps, or the priestly ritual. at one end of the saloon was a recess with a roof of timber richly carved and gilt. before the altar in this sanctuary stood the colossal image of huitzilopochtli, the tutelary deity and war-god of the aztecs. his countenance was distorted into hideous lineaments of symbolical import. in his right hand he wielded a bow, and in his left a bunch of golden arrows, which a mystic legend had connected with the victories of his people. the huge folds of a serpent, consisting of pearls and precious stones, were coiled round his waist, and the same rich materials were profusely sprinkled over his person. on his left foot were the delicate feathers of the humming-bird, which, singularly enough, gave its name to the dread deity.[382] the most conspicuous ornament was a chain of gold and silver hearts alternate, suspended round his neck, emblematical of the sacrifice in which he most delighted. a more unequivocal evidence of this was afforded by three human hearts smoking and almost palpitating, as if recently torn from the victims, and now lying on the altar before him!

the adjoining sanctuary was dedicated to a milder deity. this was tezcatlipoca, next in honor to that invisible being, the supreme god, who was represented by no image and confined by no temple. it was tezcatlipoca who created the world and watched over it with a providential care. he{327} was represented as a young man, and his image, of polished black stone, was richly garnished with gold plates and ornaments, among which a shield burnished like a mirror was the most characteristic emblem, as in it he saw reflected all the doings of the world. but the homage to this god was not always of a more refined or merciful character than that paid to his carnivorous brother; for five bleeding hearts were also seen in a golden platter on his altar.

the walls of both these chapels were stained with human gore. “the stench was more intolerable,” exclaims diaz, “than that of the slaughterhouses in castile!” and the frantic forms of the priests, with their dark robes clotted with blood, as they flitted to and fro, seemed to the spaniards to be those of the very ministers of satan![383]

from this foul abode they gladly escaped into the open air; when cortés, turning to montezuma, said, with a smile, “i do not comprehend how a great and wise prince, like you, can put faith in such evil spirits as these idols, the representatives of the devil! if you will but permit us to erect here the true cross, and place the images of the blessed virgin and her son in your sanctuaries, you will soon see how your false gods will shrink before them!”

montezuma was greatly shocked at this sac{328}rilegious address. “these are the gods,” he answered, “who have led the aztecs on to victory since they were a nation, and who send the seed-time and harvest in their seasons. had i thought you would have offered them this outrage, i would not have admitted you into their presence.”

cortés, after some expressions of concern at having wounded the feelings of the emperor, took his leave. montezuma remained, saying that he must expiate, if possible, the crime of exposing the shrines of the divinities to such profanation by the strangers.[384]

on descending to the court, the spanish took a leisurely survey of the other edifices in the enclosure. the area was protected by a smooth stone pavement, so polished, indeed, that it was with difficulty the horses could keep their legs. there were several other teocallis, built generally on the model of the great one, though of much inferior size, dedicated to the different aztec deities.[385] on their summits were the altars crowned with perpetual flames, which, with those on the numerous temples in other quarters of the capital, shed a{329} brilliant illumination over its streets through the long nights.[386]

among the teocallis in the enclosure was one consecrated to quetzalcoatl, circular in its form, and having an entrance in imitation of a dragon’s mouth, bristling with sharp fangs and dropping with blood. as the spaniards cast a furtive glance into the throat of this horrible monster, they saw collected there implements of sacrifice and other abominations of fearful import. their bold hearts shuddered at the spectacle, and they designated the place not inaptly as the “hell.”[387]

one other structure may be noticed as characteristic of the brutish nature of their religion. this was a pyramidal mound or tumulus, having a complicated frame-work of timber on its broad summit. on this was strung an immense number of human skulls, which belonged to the victims, mostly prisoners of war, who had perished on the accursed stone of sacrifice. two of the soldiers had the patience to count the number of these ghastly trophies, and reported it to be one hundred and thirty-six thousand![388] belief might well be stag{330}gered, did not the old world present a worthy counterpart in the pyramidal golgothas which commemorated the triumphs of tamerlane.[389]

there were long ranges of buildings in the enclosure, appropriated as the residence of the priests and others engaged in the offices of religion. the whole number of them was said to amount to several thousand. here were, also, the principal seminaries for the instruction of youth of both sexes, drawn chiefly from the higher and wealthier classes. the girls were taught by elderly women who officiated as priestesses in the temples, a custom familiar, also, to egypt. the spaniards admit that the greatest care for morals, and the most blameless deportment, were maintained in these institutions. the time of the pupils was chiefly occupied, as in most monastic establishments, with the minute and burdensome ceremonial of their re{331}ligion. the boys were likewise taught such elements of science as were known to their teachers, and the girls initiated in the mysteries of embroidery and weaving, which they employed in decorating the temples. at a suitable age they generally went forth into the world to assume the occupations fitted to their condition, though some remained permanently devoted to the services of religion.[390]

the spot was also covered by edifices of a still different character. there were granaries filled with the rich produce of the church-lands and with the first-fruits and other offerings of the faithful. one large mansion was reserved for strangers of eminence who were on a pilgrimage to the great teocalli. the enclosure was ornamented with gardens, shaded by ancient trees and watered by fountains and reservoirs from the copious streams of chapoltepec. the little community was thus provided with almost everything requisite for its own maintenance and the services of the temple.[391]

it was a microcosm of itself, a city within a city, and, according to the assertion of cortés, embraced a tract of ground large enough for five hundred houses.[392] it presented in their brief compass the{332} extremes of barbarism, blended with a certain civilization, altogether characteristic of the aztecs. the rude conquerors saw only the evidence of the former. in the fantastic and symbolical features of the deities they beheld the literal lineaments of satan; in the rites and frivolous ceremonial, his own especial code of damnation; and in the modest deportment and careful nurture of the inmates of the seminaries, the snares by which he was to beguile his deluded victims![393] before a century had elapsed, the descendants of these same spaniards discerned in the mysteries of the aztec religion the features, obscured and defaced, indeed, of the jewish and christian revelations![394] such were the opposite conclusions of the unlettered soldier and of the scholar. a philosopher, untouched by superstition, might well doubt which of the two was the more extraordinary.

the sight of the indian abomination seems to have kindled in the spaniards a livelier feeling for their own religion; since on the following day they asked leave of montezuma to convert one of the halls in their residence into a chapel, that they might celebrate the services of the church there. the monarch, in whose bosom the feelings of resentment seem to have soon subsided, easily granted their request, and sent some of his own artisans to aid them in the work.

while it was in progress, some of the spaniards{333} observed what appeared to be a door recently plastered over. it was a common rumor that montezuma still kept the treasures of his father, king axayacatl, in this ancient palace. the spaniards, acquainted with this fact, felt no scruple in gratifying their curiosity by removing the plaster. as was anticipated, it concealed a door. on forcing this, they found the rumor was no exaggeration. they beheld a large hall filled with rich and beautiful stuffs, articles of curious workmanship of various kinds, gold and silver in bars and in the ore, and many jewels of value. it was the private hoard of montezuma, the contributions, it may be, of tributary cities, and once the property of his father. “i was a young man,” says diaz, who was one of those that obtained a sight of it, “and it seemed to me as if all the riches of the world were in that room!”[395] the spaniards, notwithstanding their elation at the discovery of this precious deposit, seem to have felt some commendable scruples as to appropriating it to their own use,—at least for the present. and cortés, after closing up the wall as it was before, gave strict injunctions that nothing should be said of the matter, unwilling that the knowledge of its existence by his guests should reach the ears of montezuma.

three days sufficed to complete the chapel; and the christians had the satisfaction to see themselves in possession of a temple where they might wor{334}ship god in their own way, under the protection of the cross and the blessed virgin. mass was regularly performed by the fathers olmedo and diaz, in the presence of the assembled army, who were most earnest and exemplary in their devotions, partly, says the chronicler above quoted, from the propriety of the thing, and partly for its edifying influence on the benighted heathen.