march resumed—ascent of the great volcano—valley of mexico—impression on the spaniards—conduct of montezuma—they descend into the valley

1519

everything being now restored to quiet in cholula, the allied army of spaniards and tlascalans set forward in high spirits, and resumed the march on mexico. the road lay through the beautiful savannas and luxuriant plantations that spread out for several leagues in every direction. on the march, they were met occasionally by embassies from the neighboring places, anxious to claim the protection of the white men, and to propitiate them by gifts, especially of gold, their appetite for which was generally known throughout the country.

some of these places were allies of the tlascalans, and all showed much discontent with the oppressive rule of montezuma. the natives cautioned the spaniards against putting themselves in his power by entering his capital; and they stated, as evidence of his hostile disposition, that he had caused the direct road to it to be blocked up, that{222} the strangers might be compelled to choose another, which, from its narrow passes and strong positions, would enable him to take them at great disadvantage.

the information was not lost on cortés, who kept a strict eye on the movements of the mexican envoys, and redoubled his own precautions against surprise.[230] cheerful and active, he was ever where his presence was needed, sometimes in the van, at others in the rear, encouraging the weak, stimulating the sluggish, and striving to kindle in the breasts of others the same courageous spirit which glowed in his own. at night he never omitted to go the rounds, to see that every man was at his post. on one occasion his vigilance had wellnigh proved fatal to him. he approached so near a sentinel that the man, unable to distinguish his person in the dark, levelled his cross-bow at him, when fortunately an exclamation of the general, who gave the watchword of the night, arrested a movement which might else have brought the campaign to a close and given a respite for some time longer to the empire of montezuma.

the army came at length to the place mentioned by the friendly indians, where the road forked, and one arm of it was found, as they had foretold, obstructed with large trunks of trees, and huge stones which had been strewn across it. cortés inquired the meaning of this from the mexican ambassadors. they said it was done by the em{223}peror’s orders, to prevent their taking a route which, after some distance, they would find nearly impracticable for the cavalry. they acknowledged, however, that it was the most direct road; and cortés, declaring that this was enough to decide him in favor of it, as the spaniards made no account of obstacles, commanded the rubbish to be cleared away. some of the timber might still be seen by the roadside, as bernal diaz tells us, many years after. the event left little doubt in the general’s mind of the meditated treachery of the mexicans. but he was too politic to betray his suspicions.[231]

they were now leaving the pleasant champaign country, as the road wound up the bold sierra which separates the great plateaus of mexico and puebla. the air, as they ascended, became keen and piercing; and the blasts, sweeping down the frozen sides of the mountains, made the soldiers shiver in their thick harness of cotton, and benumbed the limbs of both men and horses.

they were passing between two of the highest mountains on the north american continent; popocatepetl, “the hill that smokes,” and iztaccihuatl, or “white woman,”[232]—a name suggested, doubtless, by the bright robe of snow spread over its broad and broken surface. a puerile superstition of the indians regarded these celebrated mountains as gods, and iztaccihuatl as the wife of{224} her more formidable neighbor.[233] a tradition of a higher character described the northern volcano as the abode of the departed spirits of wicked rulers, whose fiery agonies in their prison-house caused the fearful bellowings and convulsions in times of eruption. it was the classic fable of antiquity.[234] these superstitious legends had invested the mountain with a mysterious horror, that made the natives shrink from attempting its ascent, which, indeed, was from natural causes a work of incredible difficulty.

the great volcan,[235] as popocatepetl was called, rose to the enormous height of 17,852 feet above the level of the sea; more than 2000 feet above the “monarch of mountains,”—the highest elevation in europe.[236] during the present century it has rarely given evidence of its volcanic origin, and “the hill that smokes” has almost forfeited its claim to the appellation. but at the time of the conquest it was frequently in a state of activity,{225} and raged with uncommon fury while the spaniards were at tlascala; an evil omen, it was thought, for the natives of anahuac. its head, gathered into a regular cone by the deposit of successive eruptions, wore the usual form of volcanic mountains when not disturbed by the falling in of the crater. soaring towards the skies, with its silver sheet of everlasting snow, it was seen far and wide over the broad plains of mexico and puebla, the first object which the morning sun greeted in his rising, the last where his evening rays were seen to linger, shedding a glorious effulgence over its head, that contrasted strikingly with the ruinous waste of sand and lava immediately below, and the deep fringe of funereal pines that shrouded its base.

the mysterious terrors which hung over the spot, and the wild love of adventure, made some of the spanish cavaliers desirous to attempt the ascent, which the natives declared no man could accomplish and live. cortés encouraged them in the enterprise, willing to show the indians that no achievement was above the dauntless daring of his followers. one of his captains, accordingly, diego ordaz, with nine spaniards, and several tlascalans, encouraged by their example, undertook the ascent. it was attended with more difficulty than had been anticipated.

the lower region was clothed with a dense forest, so thickly matted that in some places it was scarcely possible to penetrate it. it grew thinner, however, as they advanced, dwindling by degrees into a straggling, stunted vegetation, till, at the{226} height of somewhat more than thirteen thousand feet, ?t faded away altogether. the indians who had held on thus far, intimidated by the strange subterraneous sounds of the volcano, even then in a state of combustion, now left them. the track opened on a black surface of glazed volcanic sand and of lava, the broken fragments of which, arrested in its boiling progress in a thousand fantastic forms, opposed continual impediments to their advance. amidst these, one huge rock, the pico del fraile, a conspicuous object from below, rose to the perpendicular height of a hundred and fifty feet, compelling them to take a wide circuit. they soon came to the limits of perpetual snow, where new difficulties presented themselves, as the treacherous ice gave an imperfect footing, and a false step might precipitate them into the frozen chasms that yawned around. to increase their distress, respiration in these aerial regions became so difficult that every effort was attended with sharp pains in the head and limbs. still they pressed on, till, drawing nearer the crater, such volumes of smoke, sparks, and cinders were belched forth from its burning entrails, and driven down the sides of the mountain, as nearly suffocated and blinded them. it was too much even for their hardy frames to endure, and, however reluctantly, they were compelled to abandon the attempt on the eve of its completion. they brought back some huge icicles,—a curious sight in these tropical regions,—as a trophy of their achievement, which, however imperfect, was sufficient to strike the minds of the natives with wonder, by showing that with the{227} spaniards the most appalling and mysterious perils were only as pastimes. the undertaking was eminently characteristic of the bold spirit of the cavalier of that day, who, not content with the dangers that lay in his path, seemed to court them from the mere quixotic love of adventure. a report of the affair was transmitted to the emperor charles the fifth, and the family of ordaz was allowed to commemorate the exploit by assuming a burning mountain on their escutcheon.[237]

the general was not satisfied with the result. two years after, he sent up another party, under francisco monta?o, a cavalier of determined resolution. the object was to obtain sulphur to assist in making gunpowder for the army. the mountain was quiet at this time, and the expedition was attended with better success. the spaniards, five in number, climbed to the very edge of the crater, which presented an irregular ellipse at its mouth, more than a league in circumference. its depth might be from eight hundred to a thousand feet. a lurid flame burned gloomily at the bottom, sending up a sulphurous steam, which, cooling as it rose, was precipitated on the sides of the cavity. the party cast lots, and it fell on monta?o himself, to descend in a basket into this hideous abyss, into which he was lowered by his companions to the{228} depth of four hundred feet! this was repeated several times, till the adventurous cavalier had collected a sufficient quantity of sulphur for the wants of the army.[238] this doughty enterprise excited general admiration at the time. cortés concludes his report of it to the emperor with the judicious reflection that it would be less inconvenient, on the whole, to import their powder from spain.[239]

but it is time to return from our digression, which may perhaps be excused, as illustrating, in a remarkable manner, the chimerical spirit of enterprise—not inferior to that in his own romances of chivalry—which glowed in the breast of the spanish cavalier in the sixteenth century.

the army held on its march through the intricate gorges of the sierra. the route was nearly the{229} same as that pursued at the present day by the courier from the capital to puebla, by the way of mecameca.[240] it was not that usually taken by travellers from vera cruz, who follow the more circuitous road round the northern base of iztaccihuatl, as less fatiguing than the other, though inferior in picturesque scenery and romantic points of view. the icy winds, that now swept down the sides of the mountains, brought with them a tempest of arrowy sleet and snow, from which the christians suffered even more than the tlascalans, reared from infancy among the wild solitudes of their own native hills. as night came on, their sufferings would have been intolerable, but they luckily found a shelter in the commodious stone buildings which the mexican government had placed at stated intervals along the roads for the accommodation of the traveller and their own couriers. it little dreamed it was providing a protection for its enemies.

the troops, refreshed by a night’s rest, succeeded, early on the following day, in gaining the crest of the sierra of ahualco, which stretches like a curtain between the two great mountains on the north and south. their progress was now comparatively easy, and they marched forward with a buoyant step, as they felt they were treading the soil of montezuma.

they had not advanced far, when, turning an angle of the sierra, they suddenly came on a view which more than compensated the toils of the preceding day. it was that of the valley of mexico,{230} or tenochtitlan, as more commonly called by the natives; which, with its picturesque assemblage of water, woodland, and cultivated plains, its shining cities and shadowy hills, was spread out like some gay and gorgeous panorama before them. in the highly rarefied atmosphere of these upper regions, even remote objects have a brilliancy of coloring and a distinctness of outline which seem to annihilate distance.[241] stretching far away at their feet, were seen noble forests of oak, sycamore, and cedar, and beyond, yellow fields of maize and the towering maguey, intermingled with orchards and blooming gardens; for flowers, in such demand for their religious festivals, were even more abundant in this populous valley than in other parts of anahuac. in the centre of the great basin were beheld the lakes, occupying then a much larger portion of its surface than at present; their borders thickly studded with towns and hamlets, and, in the midst,—like some indian empress with her coronal of pearls,—the fair city of mexico, with her white towers and pyramidal temples, reposing, as it were, on the bosom of the waters,—the far-famed “venice of the aztecs.” high over all rose the royal hill of chapoltepec, the residence of the mexican monarchs, crowned with the same grove of gigantic cypresses which at this day fling their broad shadows over the land. in the distance beyond the blue waters of the lake, and nearly screened by intervening foliage, was seen a shining speck, the{231} rival capital of tezcuco, and, still farther on, the dark belt of porphyry, girdling the valley around, like a rich setting which nature had devised for the fairest of her jewels.

such was the beautiful vision which broke on the eyes of the conquerors. and even now, when so sad a change has come over the scene; when the stately forests have been laid low, and the soil, unsheltered from the fierce radiance of a tropical sun, is in many places abandoned to sterility; when the waters have retired, leaving a broad and ghastly margin white with the incrustation of salts, while the cities and hamlets on their borders have mouldered into ruins;—even now that desolation broods over the landscape, so indestructible are the lines of beauty which nature has traced on its features, that no traveller, however cold, can gaze on them with any other emotions than those of astonishment and rapture.[242]

what, then, must have been the emotions of the spaniards, when, after working their toilsome way into the upper air, the cloudy tabernacle parted{232} before their eyes, and they beheld these fair scenes in all their pristine magnificence and beauty! it was like the spectacle which greeted the eyes of moses from the summit of pisgah, and, in the warm glow of their feelings, they cried out, “it is the promised land!”[243]

but these feelings of admiration were soon followed by others of a very different complexion, as they saw in all this the evidences of a civilization and power far superior to anything they had yet encountered. the more timid, disheartened by the prospect, shrank from a contest so unequal, and demanded, as they had done on some former occasions, to be led back again to vera cruz. such was not the effect produced on the sanguine spirit of the general. his avarice was sharpened by the display of the dazzling spoil at his feet; and, if he felt a natural anxiety at the formidable odds, his confidence was renewed, as he gazed on the lines of his veterans, whose weather-beaten visages and battered armor told of battles won and difficulties surmounted, while his bold barbarians, with appetites whetted by the view of their enemies’ country, seemed like eagles on the mountains, ready to pounce upon their prey. by argument, entreaty, and menace, he endeavored to restore the faltering courage of the soldiers, urging them not to think of retreat, now that they had reached the goal for which they had panted, and the golden gates were{233} opened to receive them. in these efforts he was well seconded by the brave cavaliers, who held honor as dear to them as fortune; until the dullest spirits caught somewhat of the enthusiasm of their leaders, and the general had the satisfaction to see his hesitating columns, with their usual buoyant step, once more on their march down the slopes of the sierra.[244]

with every step of their progress, the woods became thinner; patches of cultivated land more frequent; and hamlets were seen in the green and sheltered nooks, the inhabitants of which, coming out to meet them, gave the troops a kind reception. everywhere they heard complaints of montezuma, especially of the unfeeling manner in which he carried off their young men to recruit his armies, and their maidens for his harem. these symptoms of discontent were noticed with satisfaction by cortés, who saw that montezuma’s “mountain-throne,” as it was called, was indeed seated on a volcano, with the elements of combustion so active within that it seemed as if any hour might witness an explosion. he encouraged the disaffected natives to rely on his protection, as he had come to redress their wrongs. he took advantage, moreover, of their favorable dispositions, to scatter among them such gleams of spiritual light as time and the preaching of father olmedo could afford.

he advanced by easy stages, somewhat retarded by the crowd of curious inhabitants gathered on{234} the highways to see the strangers, and halting at every spot of interest or importance. on the road, he was met by another embassy from the capital. it consisted of several aztec lords, freighted, as usual, with a rich largess of gold, and robes of delicate furs and feathers. the message of the emperor was couched in the same deprecatory terms as before. he even condescended to bribe the return of the spaniards, by promising, in that event, four loads of gold to the general, and one to each of the captains,[245] with a yearly tribute to their sovereign. so effectually had the lofty and naturally courageous spirit of the barbarian monarch been subdued by the influence of superstition!

but the man whom the hostile array of armies could not daunt was not to be turned from his purpose by a woman’s prayers. he received the embassy with his usual courtesy, declaring, as before, that he could not answer it to his own sovereign if he were now to return without visiting the emperor in his capital. it would be much easier to arrange matters by a personal interview than by distant negotiation. the spaniards came in the spirit of peace. montezuma would so find it; but, should their presence prove burdensome to him, it would be easy for them to relieve him of it.[246]

the aztec monarch, meanwhile, was a prey to the most dismal apprehensions. it was intended{235} that the embassy above noticed should reach the spaniards before they crossed the mountains. when he learned that this was accomplished, and that the dread strangers were on their march across the valley, the very threshold of his capital, the last spark of hope died away in his bosom. like one who suddenly finds himself on the brink of some dark and yawning gulf, he was too much bewildered to be able to rally his thoughts, or even to comprehend his situation. he was the victim of an absolute destiny, against which no foresight or precautions could have availed. it was as if the strange beings who had thus invaded his shores had dropped from some distant planet, so different were they from all he had ever seen, in appearance and manners; so superior—though a mere handful in numbers—to the banded nations of anahuac in strength and science and all the fearful accompaniments of war! they were now in the valley. the huge mountain screen, which nature had so kindly drawn around it for its defence, had been overleaped. the golden visions of security and repose in which he had so long indulged, the lordly sway descended from his ancestors, his broad imperial domain, were all to pass away. it seemed like some terrible dream,—from which he was now, alas! to awake to a still more terrible reality.

in a paroxysm of despair, he shut himself up in his palace, refused food, and sought relief in prayer and in sacrifice. but the oracles were dumb. he then adopted the more sensible expedient of calling a council of his principal and oldest nobles. here was the same division of opinion{236} which had before prevailed. cacama, the young king of tezcuco, his nephew, counselled him to receive the spaniards courteously, as ambassadors, so styled by themselves, of a foreign prince. cuitlahua, montezuma’s more warlike brother, urged him to muster his forces on the instant, and drive back the invaders from his capital or die in its defence. but the monarch found it difficult to rally his spirits for this final struggle. with downcast eye and dejected mien, he exclaimed, “of what avail is resistance, when the gods have declared themselves against us?[247] yet i mourn most for the old and infirm, the women and children, too feeble to fight or to fly. for myself and the brave men around me, we must bare our breasts to the storm, and meet it as we may!” such are the sorrowful and sympathetic tones in which the aztec emperor is said to have uttered the bitterness of his grief. he would have acted a more glorious part had he put his capital in a posture of defence, and prepared, like the last of the pal?ologi, to bury himself under its ruins.[248]

he straightway prepared to send a last embassy to the spaniards, with his nephew, the lord of tezcuco, at its head, to welcome them to mexico.

the christian army, meanwhile, had advanced as far as amaquemecan, a well-built town of several thousand inhabitants. they were kindly received by the cacique, lodged in large, commodious,{237} stone buildings, and at their departure presented, among other things, with gold to the amount of three thousand castellanos.[249] having halted there a couple of days, they descended among flourishing plantations of maize and of maguey, the latter of which might be called the aztec vineyards, towards the lake of chalco. their first resting-place was ajotzinco, a town of considerable size, with a great part of it then standing on piles in the water. it was the first specimen which the spaniards had seen of this maritime architecture. the canals which intersected the city, instead of streets, presented an animated scene, from the number of barks which glided up and down freighted with provisions and other articles for the inhabitants. the spaniards were particularly struck with the style and commodious structure of the houses, built chiefly of stone, and with the general aspect of wealth and even elegance which prevailed there.

though received with the greatest show of hospitality, cortés found some occasion for distrust in the eagerness manifested by the people to see and approach the spaniards.[250] not content with gazing at them in the roads, some even made their way stealthily into their quarters, and fifteen or twenty unhappy indians were shot down by the{238} sentinels as spies. yet there appears, as well as we can judge, at this distance of time, to have been no real ground for such suspicion. the undisguised jealousy of the court, and the cautions he had received from his allies, while they very properly put the general on his guard, seem to have given an unnatural acuteness, at least in the present instance, to his perceptions of danger.[251]

early on the following morning, as the army was preparing to leave the place, a courier came, requesting the general to postpone his departure till after the arrival of the king of tezcuco, who was advancing to meet him. it was not long before he appeared, borne in a palanquin or litter, richly decorated with plates of gold and precious stones, having pillars curiously wrought, supporting a canopy of green plumes, a favorite color with the aztec princes. he was accompanied by a numerous suite of nobles and inferior attendants.{239} as he came into the presence of cortés, the lord of tezcuco descended from his palanquin, and the obsequious officers swept the ground before him as he advanced. he appeared to be a young man of about twenty-five years of age, with a comely presence, erect and stately in his deportment. he made the mexican salutation usually addressed to persons of high rank, touching the earth with his right hand, and raising it to his head. cortés embraced him as he rose, when the young prince informed him that he came as the representative of montezuma, to bid the spaniards welcome to his capital. he then presented the general with three pearls of uncommon size and lustre. cortés, in return, threw over cacama’s neck a chain of cut glass, which, where glass was as rare as diamonds, might be admitted to have a value as real as the latter. after this interchange of courtesies, and the most friendly and respectful assurances on the part of cortés, the indian prince withdrew, leaving the spaniards strongly impressed with the superiority of his state and bearing over anything they had hitherto seen in the country.[252]

resuming its march, the army kept along the southern borders of the lake of chalco, overshadowed, at that time, by noble woods, and by orchards glowing with autumnal fruits, of unknown names, but rich and tempting hues. more{240} it passed through cultivated fields waving with the yellow harvest, and irrigated by canals introduced from the neighboring lake; the whole showing a careful and economical husbandry, essential to the maintenance of a crowded population.

leaving the main land, the spaniards came on the great dike or causeway, which stretches some four or five miles in length and divides lake chalco from xochicalco on the west. it was a lance in breadth in the narrowest part, and in some places wide enough for eight horsemen to ride abreast. it was a solid structure of stone and lime running directly through the lake, and struck the spaniards as one of the most remarkable works which they had seen in the country.

as they passed along, they beheld the gay spectacle of multitudes of indians darting up and down in their light pirogues, eager to catch a glimpse of the strangers, or bearing the products of the country to the neighboring cities. they were amazed, also, by the sight of the chinampas, or floating gardens,—those wandering islands of verdure, to which we shall have occasion to return hereafter,—teeming with flowers and vegetables, and moving like rafts over the waters. all round the margin, and occasionally far in the lake, they beheld little towns and villages, which, half concealed by the foliage, and gathered in white clusters round the shore, looked in the distance like companies of wild swans riding quietly on the waves. a scene so new and wonderful filled their rude hearts with amazement. it seemed like enchantment; and they{241} could find nothing to compare it with but the magical pictures in the “amadis de gaula.”[253] few pictures, indeed, in that or any other legend of chivalry, could surpass the realities of their own experience. the life of the adventurer in the new world was romance put into action. what wonder, then, if the spaniard of that day, feeding his imagination with dreams of enchantment at home and with its realities abroad, should have displayed a quixotic enthusiasm,—a romantic exaltation of character, not to be comprehended by the colder spirits of other lands!

midway across the lake the army halted at the town of cuitlahuac, a place of moderate size, but distinguished by the beauty of the buildings,—the most beautiful, according to cortés, that he had yet seen in the country.[254] after taking some refreshment at this place, they continued their march along the dike. though broader in this northern section, the troops found themselves much embarrassed by the throng of indians, who, not content with gazing on them from the boats, climbed up the causeway and lined the sides of the road. the{242} general, afraid that his ranks might be disordered, and that too great familiarity might diminish a salutary awe in the natives, was obliged to resort not merely to command, but menace, to clear a passage. he now found, as he advanced, a considerable change in the feelings shown towards the government. he heard only of the pomp and magnificence, nothing of the oppressions, of montezuma. contrary to the usual fact, it seemed that the respect for the court was greatest in its immediate neighborhood.

from the causeway, the army descended on that narrow point of land which divides the waters of the chalco from the tezcucan lake, but which in those days was overflowed for many a mile now laid bare.[255] traversing this peninsula, they entered the royal residence of iztapalapan, a place containing twelve or fifteen thousand houses, according to cortés.[256] it was governed by cuitlahua, the emperor’s brother, who, to do greater{243} honor to the general, had invited the lords of some neighboring cities, of the royal house of mexico, like himself, to be present at the interview. this was conducted with much ceremony, and, after the usual present of gold and delicate stuffs,[257] a collation was served to the spaniards in one of the great halls of the palace. the excellence of the architecture here, also, excited the admiration of the general, who does not hesitate, in the glow of his enthusiasm, to pronounce some of the buildings equal to the best in spain.[258] they were of stone, and the spacious apartments had roofs of odorous cedar-wood, while the walls were tapestried with fine cotton stained with brilliant colors.

but the pride of iztapalapan, on which its lord had freely lavished his care and his revenues, was its celebrated gardens. they covered an immense tract of land; were laid out in regular squares, and the paths intersecting them were bordered with trellises, supporting creepers and aromatic shrubs that loaded the air with their perfumes. the gardens were stocked with fruit-trees, imported from distant places, and with the gaudy family of flowers which belonged to the mexican flora, scientifically arranged, and growing luxuriant in the equable temperature of the table-land. the natural dryness of the atmosphere was counteracted{244} by means of aqueducts and canals that carried water into all parts of the grounds.

in one quarter was an aviary, filled with numerous kinds of birds, remarkable in this region both for brilliancy of plumage and of song. the gardens were intersected by a canal communicating with the lake of tezcuco, and of sufficient size for barges to enter from the latter. but the most elaborate piece of work was a huge reservoir of stone, filled to a considerable height with water well supplied with different sorts of fish. the basin was sixteen hundred paces in circumference, and was surrounded by a walk, made also of stone, wide enough for four persons to go abreast. the sides were curiously sculptured, and a flight of steps led to the water below, which fed the aqueducts above noticed, or, collected into fountains, diffused a perpetual moisture.

such are the accounts transmitted of these celebrated gardens, at a period when similar horticultural establishments were unknown in europe;[259] and we might well doubt their existence in this semi-civilized land, were it not a matter of such notoriety at the time and so explicitly attested by the invaders. but a generation had scarcely passed after the conquest, before a sad change came over these scenes so beautiful. the town itself was deserted, and the shore of the lake was strewed with the wreck of buildings which once were its ornament and its glory. the garden shared the{245} fate of the city. the retreating waters withdrew the means of nourishment, converting the flourishing plains into a foul and unsightly morass, the haunt of loathsome reptiles; and the water-fowl built her nest in what had once been the palaces of princes![260]

in the city of iztapalapan, cortés took up his quarters for the night. we may imagine what a crowd of ideas must have pressed on the mind of the conqueror, as, surrounded by these evidences of civilization, he prepared with his handful of followers to enter the capital of a monarch who, as he had abundant reason to know, regarded him with distrust and aversion. this capital was now but a few miles distant, distinctly visible from iztapalapan. and as its long lines of glittering edifices, struck by the rays of the evening sun, trembled on the dark-blue waters of the lake, it looked like a thing of fairy creation, rather than the work of mortal hands. into this city of enchantment cortés prepared to make his entry on the following morning.