european settlement on the west coast of america—progress of panamá—laws respecting spanish settlements in america—final abandonment of antigua—administration of the south sea government—piracy upon principle—pascual de andagoya explores southward—conquers birú—return to panamá—colonies of veragua and chiriquí—the chieftain urracá takes up his abode in the mountains and defies the spaniards—pizarro, espinosa, pedrarias, and compa?on in vain attempt his overthrow—building of natá—compa?on as governor—hurtado colonizes chiriquí—conspiracy—capture and escape of urracá—several years more of war.
at length we find on the pacific seaboard a european settlement, in the aboriginal fishing-station of panamá the germ of a spanish city, the first on the western side of the american continent from patagonia to alaska, the first on the isthmus which remains to the present day. and there was much about it which the befogged but in many respects far-seeing adventurers of the time could foretell. there was wealth on this shore, but to what extent they knew not, as peru stood yet unrevealed. unless some strait should be found, or some narrower thread of tierra firme offering superior advantages, panamá would become the great entrep?t of south sea traffic; but wild as were their speculations in some respects, in others the imagination was as far behind the facts. even in their wildest dreams they had not seen resting on their broad-stretching beach ships from the north and the south, and the far western east, laden 496 with the wealth of half a world, and in the streets of their sun-beaten city gold and silver stacked in bricks; and spices, and precious merchandise waiting transportation over the cordillera to nombre de dios, where cargoes of european goods in like manner waited carriage southward.
the south sea metropolis.
to the importance of this city, even at this early day, the council of the indies was by no means blind; and beside the regulations[xv-1] of a general nature regarding 497 settlement and city-building which began now to be enacted, panamá was the recipient of special royal favors.
498
we have seen how pedrarias, by fair means and foul, labored to depopulate antigua; and it was a good work, though at the time he was not fully aware 499 of it. fortune had favored him in many ways of late, and the rewards of his rascalities were truly gratifying. not to mention the deaths of vasco nu?ez and lope de sosa, the successes of espinosa and other gold-hunting captains, or the discomfiture of gil gonzalez, it was a fine stroke of policy making the licenciado alarconcillo his lieutenant at antigua; for the fraudulent residencias taken by him, under the artful management of the governor's wife in spain, did pedrarias and espinosa good service at court. nor was there any practical inconvenience to the governor in the royal orders prohibiting complex legal proceedings, that the truth might be simply and inexpensively arrived at in cases of dispute, and permitting appeals from castilla del oro to the audiencia of santo domingo; for the one gave his power a wider range, while the other could be easily regulated so as to work him no prejudice. las casas likewise had failed in his effort to displace pedrarias, the privileges granted in tierra firme limiting him to territory outside of the jurisdiction of this governor.
abandonment of antigua.
the abandonment of antigua began in 1521, and was consummated in september, 1524, diego ribero, the last survivor, being massacred with his entire family by his own indians, who afterward burned the town. thus the streets wherein had been acted so many stirring scenes were vacant, and the country, after a struggle of fifteen years and the loss of thousands of lives, lapsed into its original savagism. by royal decree issued at búrgos september 15, 1521, panamá was made a city, and received royal privileges 500 and a coat of arms, in further ennoblement.[xv-2] the regidores should enjoy the title of veinticuatros, as in seville and córdova. for the first ten years the city had to pay only a tithe on gold; the eleventh year, one ninth; the twelfth, one eighth, and so on to the fifteenth when the usual fifth would be due. hitherto the currency consisted of pieces of gold cut into various weights; now silver and copper money were employed.
government.
the first regidores of panamá were gonzalo de badajoz, rodrigo enriquez de colmenares, rogel de loris, pascual de andagoya, martin estete, benito hurtado, luis de la rocha, and francisco gonzalez. the alcalde mayor, hernando de salaya, was made lieutenant of pedrarias in panamá, with a salary of 150,000 maravedís, espinosa having turned his attention almost exclusively to military matters. the royal officers formerly at antigua as a rule held their places in panamá. these were alonso de la puente, the treasurer; diego marquez, the contador; miguel juan de ribas, factor. to some of these pedrarias was obliged to give repartimientos as an inducement to move.
more difficulty was experienced in having the episcopal see transferred to panamá, but it was 501 finally accomplished; the royal order to move it, with the clergy and paraphernalia of the church as well as the vecinos and the hospital, bearing date the same as the order making panamá a city, namely, september 15, 1521. on the death of the first bishop of darien, juan de quevedo, a successor was appointed in the person of fray vicente de peraza. salaya and the archdeacon perez came out together in 1522; peraza came later, salaya being commissioned to superintend ecclesiastical affairs until the bishop's arrival. and when he did arrive he appeared in no haste to move, and was still at antigua in 1524. there, finally, pedrarias went and exercised upon him his softest blandishments. the governor could make himself quite pleasing to one who did not know him. the bishop had not been long in panamá before his eyes were opened, and then, indeed, forever closed; for one day, while the bishop and the governor were at cards, they had a quarrel, during which the latter was treated badly with words, and soon after the bishop died. then with salaya the governor employed sharp words, saying, if he did not mind he would cut off his head. "more than one head you have wrongfully cut off," salaya retorted, "but he who cuts off my head must have a better head than mine, and that you have not." then they were friends again. nevertheless salaya died. both these men were poisoned; suspicion pointed to pedrarias, though he was never formally charged with the crime.
for the building of churches in castilla del oro, the king gave large alms; his annual donation to the hospital was three hundred pesos,[xv-3] while the royal 502 treasury covered the cost of an organ and a clock for the panamá cathedral. about the time of the removal, francisco de lizaur, procurador of the new settlement for providing the indians as well as the spaniards with food, procured an order requiring the governor to attend to planting; likewise barter must be opened with the natives, and negro slaves were not allowed to accompany expeditions. the boundaries of the municipality extended about forty-five leagues in every direction from the three leagues of city lands in the centre.
the natives of the new world, and they alone, were expected to support the new city, and through panamá to send great wealth to spain. the object of the spaniards was not agriculture, except to save themselves from hunger; nor even mining, except as they could force the natives to dig; it was unadulterated robbery, with only the lame excuses of civilization and christianity, and panamá was but a pirates' nest.
by no means the worst of the band was pascual de andagoya, who but for the bad company he kept might have been pronounced an honest man. he assisted pedrarias, and acted as the forerunner of pizarro, but when it came to wholesale infamies he had no zeal for them.
expedition of andagoya.
a faithful retainer of the governor, he was in 1522 sent by him to explore the southern coast beyond the limits of the discovery of vasco nu?ez. landing at the gulf of san miguel, andagoya visited a province called chochama, where he was informed that during the periods of the full moon, a fierce people infested its shore, driving the inhabitants from their fisheries, slaying them if they resisted, and spreading terror 503 generally. this people came from a province called birú, which name was corrupted by the spaniards into pirú, and finally into the peru of francisco pizarro. chochama begged andagoya to protect his subjects from this scourge, and having obtained reinforcements from panamá, andagoya set out in company with his host and his warriors for the dreaded region. ascending a large river for twenty leagues, the spaniards found a number of villages and caciques, and on the outskirts of the province, near the junction of two rivers, they discovered a strong native fortress, well garrisoned, which on being attacked was defended with skill and bravery. but superior tactics soon prevailed, and after a struggle the stronghold was reduced and the inmates were brought to terms.
the subjugation of birú being thus effected, andagoya continued his voyage, the ships keeping well off shore, while the commander reconnoitred the coast in canoes navigated by friendly indians. it happened one day, while thus employed, that his boat was caught in the surf and overturned. he was saved by the brave efforts of one of the natives whose cause he had espoused; but a rheumatic fever which followed determined him to abandon the discovery, and on the following day he turned his face toward panamá, where he arrived in safety with a few captives.[xv-4] 504
permission was then given to juan basurto to continue the discovery of andagoya; but his sudden death cut short the preparations, and there the matter rested until taken up by francisco pizarro.
bravery of urracá.
leaving for the moment affairs to the southward, let us return to the western side of panamá bay. there was a cacique named urracá, whom the spaniards sought to kill, whose domain was the sierra of veragua, and whose crime was the love of liberty. indeed so villainously depraved was this savage that he would not accept spanish salvation and domination when offered him in return for his gold; he even thought to kill the good men who invaded his territory to kill him. urracá was fierce and strong; his mountains were rugged, and his home almost inaccessible to the hostile invader. therefore he must be approached with caution, and his capture intrusted only to picked men. as he was reported rich, and worth the trouble, two companies were fitted out against him, one by water under espinosa, and one by land under francisco pizarro. the former embarked at panamá in two vessels, and, after touching at the island of cebaco, passed over to the mainland of veragua and began his march on the redoubtable mountaineer. urracá was not afraid of him, and after placing the women, the children, and the aged of his people in safety, with his warriors he marched boldly out against the enemy. he first encountered the indian vanguard of espinosa, and falling on them slew them to a man. then he fiercely attacked the horsemen, of whom there were two or three, and the foot-soldiers, fighting with such determination that but for hernando de soto, who with thirty men had been sent forward by pizarro to seek a pass, the licentiate would have been cut to pieces. pizarro, 505 who was near at hand, had not reached the place without hard fighting. and now urracá defied them all. with every advantage of a rugged and well-known country on his side, he rallied his men and attacked the combined force with such desperate energy that when night came the spaniards endeavored to withdraw secretly to the open plain. to this urracá objected. he permitted them to break up camp, it is true, and to begin their march; but, when within the darkest pass, he was on them again like a trap, and from the black craggy defile they could not move, except against the lances and war-clubs that hemmed them in. with morning the question faced them, whether they should die there or escape? and thus the captains placed the matter before the men. summoning all their strength, they threw their united force against the living obstructions at the opening toward the sea, and, treading down the enemy, escaped to their ships, and spreading sail directed their course toward panamá. but it would not do to return empty-handed. so landing at borrica they plundered the town, and took the inhabitants captive, though the licentiate finally released the women. while espinosa with the main body of his troops proceeded to natá, francisco compa?on with fifty men surprised by night a peaceful village in the neighborhood. it was palisaded, and the spaniards were repulsed. hiding themselves, they waited until the inhabitants had come forth in the morning, and had scattered themselves about the fields. at a signal they sprang upon them. the poor natives ran for shelter from the merciless steel, and arriving at the gateway in a body they so blocked it as to be easily butchered. those not killed were carried captives to natá.
natá and chiriquí.
the native village of natá was situated on an open plain, most beautiful, with a fertile soil and wholesome air. we have seen how on former occasions it had attracted the attention of the spaniards. they 506 had long desired to found there a settlement, and, the present expedition having proved a failure, espinosa sent messengers to pedrarias asking permission to remain and form a colony. the governor acquiesced, but ordered espinosa with the ships to panamá, leaving at natá only fifty men under compa?on.
the new seaport lay nearer to urracá than the island of cebaco, although espinosa began his march against this province at a point on azuero peninsula, opposite the island, more than thirty leagues from natá, by sea.
it was near enough, at all events, for the wary urracá to follow the spaniards with his vindictive eye. the chieftain, by his emissaries, knew when espinosa landed there, what he and the others did, when they went away, and how many remained. peeping in on compa?on he thought he could manage fifty men. he would try it. collecting his forces he made preparations to attack the spaniards by night. on approaching their quarters he came to a house at some distance from the others, in which three men were sleeping. one of them the savages killed with a spear; one they captured; the third eluded them until he had secured his arms, when he sprang up and shouted as if to some companions near. single-handed he then attacked them and put them to flight; after which he released his captive comrade, and the two sought their commander. compa?on immediately sent messengers to pedrarias, informing him of the attack.
it was not praiseworthy on the part of urracá to allow his multitude of brave warriors to be defeated by a single spaniard; probably he never knew how easily he was beaten; and now confederating with his neighbors he confined the spaniards so closely in their quarters that they began to suffer for food. the opportune arrival of hernando ponce de leon with forty men, and shortly afterward of the governor himself with one hundred and fifty men, placed compa?on at ease again. 507
it is true; the old governor is in the field again! war, at home or abroad, is his natural element. this bold mountain chieftain must be put down; and who so fitting to do it, who so capable, as the governor? appointing francisco pizarro as second in command, with his entire available force, among which are some horses and small cannon, pedrarias sallies forth.
urracá is ready to receive him. he has joined forces with a neighbor named exquegua, and awaits the spanish governor just beyond the strongest pass. he hopes a second time to entangle the enemy amongst the craggy steeps to him so familiar. the fox enters the trap. the governor must choose either to fight at great disadvantage, or retire and leave the country to its aboriginal lord. urracá is powerful, sagacious, and brave. occupying in his retreat the most elevated part of the cordillera where it cuts veragua, and being about midway between the two oceans, he can draw supplies and reinforcements from either side. so pernicious is the influence he exerts that he can prevent the pacification of western castilla del oro: hence the importance of his extermination.
the old governor harangues his army. after the stale fashion of xerxes and the scipios he sneers at the enemy, and praises his own men. it is not common to hear pedrarias praise any one. "you see the necessity of this chieftain's death," he concludes; "let it never be said of spaniards that they left alive a rich heathen." a charge is then ordered. the battle lasts till nightfall. it is renewed the next day and the day following. before such unparalleled obstinacy the spaniards grow faint. even the fire-belching cannon, with its reverberating roar and its balls sweeping down men, splitting rocks and trees, and tearing up the earth, confounds them but for a moment. for five days the engagement continues, much of the time in a desultory manner, the spaniards fighting from under cover like the indians. 508
urracá at length resorts to stratagem. withdrawing his forces as if in abandonment of the fight, he retires toward the river atra, the rendezvous of the confederates from both sides of the cordillera. pedrarias follows, thinking in some open spot to scatter the foe and kill them. seeing which, urracá calls to him several wise warriors, and instructs them to play the part of men of the country, and when captured by the spaniards to direct them to their ruin. through this ruse diego de albites falls into ambush, at one time with forty men, at another with sixty, narrowly escaping destruction.
determined never to abandon the country until his purpose is accomplished, pedrarias sends out parties against the villages of the confederates individually. two caciques, bulaba and musa, are captured, but on accepting terms of peace are set at liberty. urracá avoids another general engagement, and pedrarias returns to natá. the lands and captives are divided among such soldiers as are willing to remain as colonists under diego de albites, who is left there as the governor's lieutenant. sixty elect to remain, who begin to build and plant. thus is established the town and settlement suggested by espinosa, which is called natá after the cacique, and which name it still retains, and next after panamá on the pacific seaboard, natá assumes importance as a spanish settlement.
all the same it is exceedingly hard on the poor aboriginal, drudgery or death. those enslaved under the fatherly-protection system endeavor by every means to escape; failing in which, if they do not kill themselves, they soon die from hard treatment. urracá never ceases narrowly to watch the spaniards, attacking them as opportunity offers. albites retaliates with frequent incursions; but unable to overthrow urracá he finally makes peace with him. this displeases pedrarias, who thereupon recalls albites and appoints francisco compa?on governor of natá. under the 509 new regime hostilities are yet more vigorously pressed, but in almost every instance to the discomfiture of the spaniards.
beyond the domain of urracá, toward the west, in veragua, was the province of chiriquí. thither pedrarias sent benito hurtado to establish a colony. the country being thinly populated was easily taken and held. indeed, the caciques of chiriquí, vareclas, and burica, the chief rulers within an area of one hundred leagues, obeyed without resistance, and for two years the colony of chiriquí was unmolested. but the more submissive the people, the more exacting the conquering race. the crushing weight of servitude becoming unbearable, the men of chiriquí at length rose to arms. they were joined in a general revolt by urracá. unable to vanquish this chieftain, compa?on determined to capture him by fair means or foul. overtures were begun by presents and fair promises, and at length, under the most solemn assurances of liberty and safety, urracá was induced to visit the governor at natá. no sooner had he entered the town than he was seized and ironed. i am disposed to praise the perfidious compa?on for not burning his captive, or giving him to the dogs; he only sent him, in violation of his sacred pledge, a prisoner to nombre de dios, with the intention of shipping him off to spain. before the sailing of a ship, however, the brave cacique managed to burst his fetters and escape. breathing vengeance he roused the mountains, organized a yet more powerful confederation, and marched against natá. long and bloody warfare ensued, with alternate success. one of the most disastrous conflicts occurred early in 1527, in an expedition against a rebel chief named trota, under captain alonso de vargas, with forty soldiers, principally men newly arrived from spain. the protestations of some of trota's adherents, who entered the camp with humble mien but active eyes, induced 510 the captain, at the recommendation of a veteran comrade, to send pocoa, an allied chief and guide, with offers of peace. the fellow was no sooner out of sight than he cast the olive branch to the winds, and joining cause with trota, advised him to seize so advantageous an opportunity for glory and revenge, when the force before him was weak and inexperienced and the commander ailing. four days later five hundred warriors fell upon the camp, led by pocoa in a glittering breastplate of gold. although taken by surprise, the soldiers fought desperately, but the numbers were overwhelming, and vargas succumbed with half his men. this blow was one more incentive for the spaniards to exert themselves in retaliation and conquest. the country adjacent to the settlement being open and level, horses and cannon could be used with advantage; while on the other hand, to make up for lack of skill, were numbers, drawn from a great distance around, with the protecting mountains in which to nurse declining energies. thus for nine years the war continued, until the chieftain urracá, yielded up his life, though not, after all, to arquebuse or bloodhound: he died in bed, among his own people, but lamenting, with the last breath, his inability to drive out the detested christians.