the most significant thing i saw in south africa was an old-fashioned gabled, whitewashed house. the name of it is groote schuur, and it stands in very beautiful grounds on the slopes of table mountain, a mile or so at the back of cape town. that house was the home of cecil john rhodes, who, more than any other man, was responsible for the boer war and for the resultant british predominance south of the congo, and in his will he directed that it should be used as the official residence of the prime minister of that south african confederation which his prophetic mind foresaw. the welding of the boer republics of the transvaal and the orange free state with the british colonies of natal and the cape of good hope produced the great antipodal commonwealth of which the empire-builder dreamed, but the man who, as prime minister, dwells under groote schuur's gabled roof and directs the policies of the new nation is a member of that boer race which rhodes hated and feared and whose political power he firmly believed had been broken forever. fortune never doubled in her tracks more completely than when she made general louis botha, the last leader of boer troops in the field, the first prime minister of a united south africa.

strange things have happened in south africa in the dozen years that have passed since the musketry crackled along the modder and the tugela, for the country that the world believed had been won for good and all by british arms is being slowly but surely rewon by boer astuteness. already the bonds which hold the new union of south africa to the british empire have become very loose ones. the man who, as prime minister, is the virtual ruler of the young nation, is a far-sighted and sagacious dutchman, while seven out of the eleven portfolios in his cabinet are held by men of the same race. the union not only makes its own laws and fixes its own tariffs, but the leading dutch organ of the country recently went so far as to urge that, in case great britain should become engaged in a european war, it would be possible and might be proper for south africa to declare its neutrality and take no part in it. not only is the white population of the union overwhelmingly dutch, but in many parts of the country english is becoming merely a subsidiary tongue, while it is not at all unlikely, in view of the bill recently passed by the parliament making dutch compulsory in the schools, that the language of the netherlands will eventually become the predominant tongue throughout all south africa. most suggestive of all, perhaps, the orange river colony, upon entering the union, promptly reverted to its old name of the orange free state, which it bore before the war with england. indeed, it may sadly perplex the historians of the future to decide who won the boer war.

if south africa is to become a union in fact as well as in name its people will have to face and solve the great national problems of race and colour. of these, the former are, if not the more important, certainly the more pressing. two of the four provinces of the union, remember, are british solely by right of conquest; a third is bound by the closest ties of blood and tradition to the dutch people; while only one of the four is british in sentiment and population. many intelligent people with whom i talked, both in england and in africa, assured me that the formation of the union was the first step toward cutting the bonds which join south africa to the mother country. while most englishmen scoff at any such suggestion, swaggeringly asserting that they “have whipped the dutch once and can do it again,” the dutch retort, on the other hand, that it took england, with all her financial and military resources, four years, and cost her tens of thousands of lives and millions of pounds, to conquer the two little boer republics, and that she would not have beaten them then if their money had held out. though there is certainly no love lost between the english and the boers, i think that the majority of the latter are convinced that it is to their own best interests to be loyal to the new government, in the direction of which they have, after all, the greatest say.

the attitude which the british government has adopted in its treatment of the boer population since the close of the war has been remarkable for its generosity and far-sightedness. in all its colonial history it has [pg 226] done few wiser things than the recognition of the military, as well as the civic, ability of general botha. not only is this sagacious dutchman, who led the forces of the embattled boers until dispersed by the tremendously superior might of england, and then inaugurated a guerilla warfare by which the conflict was prolonged for two years with victories which will go down in history as notable, now prime minister of the new nation, but, early in 1912, he was appointed to the rank of general in that very army which he so long and so valorously defied. this is, i believe, an almost unprecedented instance of the wise and politic exercise of imperial authority in the strengthening of imperial power and can hardly fail to result in increasing the loyalty of south africa's boer population.

the men who planned and brought the union into being have had to pick their steps with care, and more than once their ingenuity has been taxed to the utmost to avoid the outcropping of racial jealousies and enmities. the white population of south africa, you should understand, consists of three classes: the boers, which means simply “tillers of the soil,” and which is the name applied by the south african dutch to themselves; the colonials, or british immigrants, most of whom have come out with the intention of returning to england as soon as they have made their fortunes; and, lastly, the africanders, men whose fathers were british immigrants, but who were themselves born and bred in south africa and who have intermarried with the boers so often that it is almost impossible to draw [pg 227] the line between the races. given these three factions, therefore, with their different customs, ideals, and aspirations, and it needs no saying that the task confronting those who are responsible for the smooth working of the governmental machinery is no easy one. the political jealousy existing between briton and boer in south africa to-day is comparable only to that which existed between northerners and southerners during reconstruction days. the racial antagonism which arose over the location of the federal capital, and which threatened at one time to upset the whole scheme of federation, was only overcome by the novel expedient of creating two capitals instead of one, pretoria, the old capital of the transvaal, where krüger held sway, being made the residence of the governor-general and the seat of the executive power, while the parliament sits in cape town.

the union parliament consists of a senate having forty members—eight of whom are appointed by the governor-general, the other thirty-two being elected, eight by each province—and a house of assembly with 121 members chosen as follows: cape of good hope 51, natal 17, transvaal 36, and orange free state 17. no voter is disqualified by race or colour, but the members of parliament must be english subjects of european descent who have lived in the colony for at least five years. now, a very great deal, so far as the well-being of the native races of south africa are concerned, depends upon the interpretation that is given to the words “european descent.” in cuban society every [pg 228] one who is not absolutely black is treated as white, whereas in the united states every one who is suspected of having even a “touch of the tar brush” is treated as black. though the federal constitution is very far from giving the native races a standing equal to that of the whites, intelligent government of the natives is promised by a clause which provides that four of the senate, out of a total of forty, shall be appointed because of their special knowledge of the wants and wishes of the coloured population.

if the racial problem is the most pressing, the colour problem is by far the most serious question before the people of south africa, for the blacks not only outnumber the whites four to one, but there is the ever-present danger that rebellion may spring up among them without the slightest warning. apart from all other considerations, the very numbers of the natives in south africa form a dangerous element in the problem, for there are close on five million blacks south of the limpopo as against a million and a quarter europeans. if, in our own south, where the blacks are only half as numerous as the whites, there exists a problem of which no satisfactory solution has been offered, how much more serious is the state of affairs in a country where a handful of white men—themselves split into two camps by racial and political animosities—are face to face with a vast, warlike, and constantly increasing native population! in fact, the colour problem which has arisen would be strikingly similar to that in our southern states were it not that there is a vast difference in type [pg 229] and temperament between the south african native and the southern darky. the native races are three in number: the bushmen, the aborigines of south africa, a race of pygmy savages of a very low order of intelligence, who are fast becoming extinct; the hottentots, a people considerably more advanced toward civilisation but rapidly decreasing from epidemics; and the kaffirs, as the various sections of the great zulu race are commonly known, a warlike, courageous, and handsome people who, since the british government ended their inter-tribal wars, are rapidly multiplying, having increased fifteen per cent in the last seven years. although the europeans in south africa universally regard the kaffirs with contempt, it is not altogether unmixed with fear, for a nation of fighting men, such as the zulus, who organised a great military power, enacted a strict code of laws, and held the white man at bay for a quarter of a century, will not always remain in a state of subjection, nor will they tamely submit to being driven into the wilderness north of the zambezi, a solution of the colour problem which has frequently been proposed.

that the attitude of great britain toward the colour question in south africa is similar to that of the northern states toward the same problem in the south, while the attitude of the european settlers is almost identical with that of the southerners, is strikingly illustrated by a case which recently occurred in south africa, in which a european jury found a native guilty of attempting to assault a white woman, a crime as unknown under the old régime in south africa as it was [pg 230] in our own south before the civil war. though the judge sentenced the man to death, the governor-general promptly commuted the sentence on the ground that the “fact of crime” had not been established. immediately a storm of protest and indignation arose among the white population which swept the country from the zambezi to the cape, the settlers asserting that if the decree of commutation were to form a precedent, no white woman would be safe in south africa. the echoes of this controversy had not yet died away before two other cases occurred which intensely aggravated the situation. one was the case of a settler named lewis, who shot a native for an insult to his daughters, while the other was that of the honourable galbraith cole, a son of the earl of enniskillen, who killed a native on the alleged charge of theft. both men were tried by white juries on charges of murder, and both were promptly acquitted, though mr. cole, in spite of his acquittal, was deported from south africa by the government. as though to emphasise their colour prejudice, the lawyers of the union about this time took concerted action to prevent native attorneys from practising among them. how, then, can the natives, who form three fourths of the population of the new union, and who are far more children of the soil than the europeans, be said to have protection of their most elementary rights if they are to be debarred from having men of their own colour and race to defend them, and if no white jury can be trusted to do justice where a native is concerned?

the imperial government deserves the greatest credit, however, for the steps it has taken to preserve his lands to the native. in the native protectorates and reservations of basutoland, swaziland, bechuanaland, griqualand, tembuland, and pondoland the government has reserved for the exclusive use and benefit of the natives territories considerably larger than the combined area of our three pacific-coast states. though these territories are under the control of british resident commissioners, the native chiefs are allowed to exercise jurisdiction according to tribal laws and customs in all civil matters between natives, special courts having been established to deal with serious civil or criminal matters in which europeans are concerned. though certain small areas of land in these rich territories are held by whites, the bulk of the country is reserved for the exclusive use and benefit of the natives, and it is not at all likely that any more land will be alienated for purposes of settlement by europeans. (could anything be in more striking contrast to our disgraceful treatment of the indian?) though south africa has much in common with canada, and with australia, and with our own southwest, it is, when all is said and done, a black man's country ruled by the white man, and it is upon the justice, liberality, and intelligence of this rule that the peace and prosperity of the young nation must eventually depend.

two great obstacles will always stand in the way of the white man having an easy row to hoe in south africa: the climate and the lack of water. though the [pg 232] climate of the uplands is pleasant and makes men want to lead an outdoor life, i am not at all certain that it tends to develop or maintain the keenness and energy characteristic of dwellers in the north temperate zone. the climate of the coastal regions is, moreover, distinctly bad, the sharply cold nights and the misty, steaming days producing the coast fever, which is a combination of rheumatism, influenza, dysentery, and malaria, and is very debilitating indeed. the white man who intends to make his permanent home in south africa has, therefore, two alternatives: he can submit to the exactions of the climate, take life easily, leave the black bottle severely alone, and live a long but unprogressive life, or he can exhaust his energies and undermine his health in fighting the climate and die of old age at sixty. if the climate is not all that is desirable for men, it is infinitely worse for animals, for every disease known to the veterinarian abounds. time and again the herds of the country have been almost exterminated by the hoof-and-mouth disease, or by the rinderpest, a highly contagious cattle distemper which is probably identical with that “murrain” with which moses smote the herds of ancient egypt and which helped to bring pharaoh to terms. in the low-lying regions along the east coast, and in the country north of the limpopo it is necessary to keep horses shut up every night until the poisonous mists and dew have disappeared before the sun lest they contract the “blue-tongue,” a disease characterised by a swollen, purplish-hued tongue which kills them in a few hours by choking; [pg 233] while in certain other districts, especially in the vicinity of the zambezi and of the portuguese territories, the deadly tsetse-fly makes it impossible to keep domestic animals at all.

the other great obstacle to the prosperity of south africa is the lack of water, for less than one-tenth of the country is suitable for raising any kind of a crop without water being led onto it—and irrigation by private enterprise is out of the question, as even the indomitable rhodes was forced to admit. the government is fully alive to the crying need for water, however, and a scheme for a national system of irrigation is filling a large part of the ministry of agriculture's programme. if carried out, this scheme will enormously enlarge the area of tillage, for some of the regions now hopelessly arid, such as the karroo, have a soil of amazing fertility and need only water to make them produce luxuriant crops. were the rains of the wet season conserved by means of the great tanks so common in india, or were artesian wells sunk like those which have transformed the desert regions of algeria and arizona, the vast stretch of the karroo, instead of being yellow with sand, might be yellow with waving corn.

though agriculture is, and probably always will be, the least important of the country's great natural sources of wealth, the development of rural industries is, thanks to governmental assistance, steadily progressing. roads and bridges are being built, experimental farms organised on a large scale, the services of scientific experts engaged, blooded live-stock imported, agricultural [pg 234] banks established, and literature dealing with agricultural problems is being distributed broadcast over the country. the exports of fruit are steadily increasing; sugar is being grown on the hot lands of natal and might be grown all the way to the zambezi; tea has lately been introduced in the coastal regions and would probably also flourish in the north; the tobacco of the transvaal is as good a pipe tobacco as any grown, and those who have become accustomed to it will use no other; with the exception of the olive, which does not thrive, and of the vine, which succeeds only in a limited area around cape town, nearly all of the products of the temperate zone and of subtropical regions can be grown successfully. though south africa unquestionably presents many promising openings in farming, in fruit-growing, and in truck gardening, it is folly for a man to attempt any one of them unless he possesses practical experience, a modest capital, and a willingness to work hard and put up with many inconveniences, for in no other english-speaking country are the necessities of life so dear and so poor in quality, nowhere is labour so unsatisfactory, and nowhere is lack of comfort so general.

south africa's chief source of wealth is, and always will be, its minerals. it was, strangely enough, the latest source to become known, for nobody suspected it until, in 1867, a boer hunter, his eye caught by a sparkle among the pebbles on the orange river, picked up the first diamond. the diamonds found in that region since then have amounted in value to nearly a [pg 235] billion dollars. fifteen years after the great diamond finds which sent the adventurers and fortune-seekers of the world thronging to south africa, came the still greater gold discoveries on the witwatersrand, or “the rand,” as the reef of gold-bearing quartz in the transvaal is commonly called. the total value of the gold production of the rand for the twenty-five years ending in june, 1910, was nearly one and a half billion dollars. but though the rand produces more gold than america and australia put together; though kimberley has a virtual monopoly of the world's supply of diamonds; though seams of silver, iron, coal, copper, and tin are only waiting for capital and skill to unlock their treasures, south africa is, in the midst of this stupendous wealth, poor, for she is as dependent on foreign sources for her food supply as england. in other words, a region as large as all the states west of the rocky mountains, in which flourish nearly all the products of every zone from the equator to the pole, is unable to supply the wants of a white population which is less than that of connecticut. in california, on the other hand, which is strikingly similar to south africa in many respects, the cultivation of the land kept pace with the production of gold and eventually outstripped it. until the mining industry of south africa is likewise put upon a solid agricultural foundation, the country can never hope to be self-supporting.

in many respects johannesburg, the “golden city,” is the most interesting place i have ever seen. in 1886 [pg 236] it was nothing but a collection of miserable shanties. to-day “joburg,” as it is commonly called, is a city of a quarter of a million people, with asphalted streets, imposing office buildings, one of the best street-railway systems that i know, the finest hotel south of the equator, and one of the most beautiful country clubs in the world. it is a city of contrasts, however, for you can stand under the porte-cochère of the palatial carlton hotel and hear the click of roulette balls, the raucous scrape of fiddles, and the shouts of drunken miners issuing from a row of gambling-hells, dance-halls, and gin palaces still housed in one-story buildings of corrugated iron; a beplumed and bepainted zulu will pull you in a 'rickshaw, over pavements as smooth and clean as those of fifth avenue, to a theatre where you will have the privilege of paying metropolitan opera house prices to witness much the same sort of a performance that you would find in a bowery music-hall; in the rand club you can see bronzed and booted prospectors, fresh from the mining districts of rhodesia or the congo, leaning over the bar, cheek-by-jowl with sleek, immaculately groomed financiers from london and berlin and new york. johannesburg is a spendthrift city, a place of easy-come and easy-go, for the mine-workers are paid big wages, the mine-managers receive big salaries, and the mine-owners make big profits, and they all spend their money as readily as they make it. the english miner averages five dollars a day, which he spends between saturday night and monday morning in a drunken spree, while a native labourer will save enough [pg 237] in a few months to keep him in idleness and his conception of comfort for the rest of his life.

there is pleasant society in johannesburg and much hospitality to a stranger. i took nearly a score of letters of introduction with me to the rand, but one would have done as well, for you present one letter, and at the dinner which the man to whom it is addressed promptly gives for you at the rand club or at the carlton you will meet several of the other people to whom you bear introductions. through their club life and their business relations the english and americans in south africa are linked together in acquaintance like rings in a shirt of chain-mail, so that if a man in bulawayo or kimberley or johannesburg gets to living beyond his income, or loses heavily at cards, or pays undue attention to another man's wife, they will be discussing his affairs in the club bars or on the hotel verandas of cape town and durban within a fortnight. i found that nearly all of the mines on the rand are managed by americans, and that the mine-owners, who are nearly all english or german, preferred them to any other nationality, which struck me as being very complimentary to the administrative and mechanical abilities of our people. one of these american mine-managers drove forty miles in his motor-car so as to shake hands with me, merely because he had learned in a roundabout way that i came from the same part of new york state as himself, while another fellow-countryman, who had made a great fortune during the boer war by contracting to wash the clothes of the british army, and [pg 238] received war-time prices for his work, kidnapped me from the hotel where i was staying, and landed me, baggage and all, in his home, and actually felt affronted when i tried to leave after a week.

few places could be more unlike johannesburg than pretoria, the new capital of the union, only thirty miles away. it is as different from the “golden city” as sleepy bruges is from bustling antwerp; as tarrytown, new york, is from paterson, new jersey. at first sight i was surprised to find so english a town, but after i had strolled in the shade of the wooden arcades formed by the broad verandas of the shops i decided that the atmosphere of the city was indian; the rows of mud-bespattered saddle-horses tied to hitching-posts along the main streets and the rural produce being sold from wagons in the central market-place recalled our own west; but the substantial, white-plastered houses, with their old-fashioned stoeps, their red-brick sidewalks, and their prim and formal gardens, finally convinced me that the town was, after all, dutch. every visitor to pretoria goes to see krüger's house, the low, whitewashed dwelling with the white lions on the stoep, where the stubborn old president used to sit, smoking his long pipe and drinking his black coffee and giving parental advice to his people. across the way is the old dutch church where he used to hold forth on sundays, with the gold hands still missing from the clock-face on its steeple, for in the last days of the south african republic they were melted down and went to swell the slender war-chest of the boer army. in the cemetery hard by the crafty, [pg 239] indomitable old man lies buried, while the hated flag against which he fought so long flies over the capital where he collected his guns and hatched his schemes of conquest, and within sight of his black-marble tomb there are rising in brick and stone the great new buildings which mark pretoria as the capital of a united south africa.

thirty miles northward across the veldt from pretoria is the great hole in the ground known as the premier diamond mine, the newest and potentially the richest of the south african diamond fields. here, in january, 1905, the surface manager, a scotchman named mchardy, while strolling through the pit during the noon hour, saw the sparkle of what he at first took to be a broken bottle. prying it loose with his stick from the surrounding rubble, he found it to be a diamond as large as a good-sized orange. this remarkable stone, which is the largest diamond heretofore found, has since become known to the world as the great cullinan, being named after sir thomas cullinan, one of the owners of the mine. it is a pure white stone, 4 by 2? by 2 inches, weighing 3,025 carats, or 1.37 pounds, and worth in the neighbourhood of a million dollars. as the surface cleavage shows that it is undoubtedly a fragment of a much larger crystal, one cannot but wonder what the original stone was like. the great cullinan was immediately purchased by the transvaal government—or, rather, the mine's share was purchased, for the government receives sixty per cent of the value of all diamonds found—and presented to king edward. the question then arose of how so valuable [pg 240] a gem could be transported to england in safety, for no sooner had its discovery been announced than the criminals of the world began to lay their plans to get possession of it. after many discussions and innumerable suggestions and much newspaper comment, four men, armed to the teeth, left the premier mine, carrying with them a red-leather despatch box. crossing the thirty miles of veldt to pretoria under heavy escort, they were conveyed in a private car to cape town; in the liner by which they took passage to england a safe had been specially installed and the red-leather despatch box was placed in it, two of the men remaining on duty in front of it night and day. from southampton a special train took them up to london and a strong guard of detectives and police surrounded them on their way to the bank at which the diamond was to be delivered. when the despatch box was opened in the presence of a group of curious officials it was found to contain nothing more valuable than a lump of coal! the stone itself—and as sir thomas cullinan told me the story it is undoubtedly true—was wrapped in cotton wool and tissue paper, put in a pasteboard box, wrapped up in brown paper, and sent to england by parcels post, not even the post-office authorities being given an inkling that it was in the mails. i almost forgot to mention, by the way, that mchardy, the discoverer of the great stone, was given a bonus of ten thousand dollars, though it is a sad and peculiar commentary that within a year his wife died, the bank in which he put the money failed, and his house burned down.

the diamonds are found in beds of clay, of which [pg 241] there are two layers: a soft, yellow clay, lying on or near the surface, and a hard, blue clay, lying deeper. these clays, which are usually covered by a thin stratum of calcareous rock, are supposed to be the remains of mud pits due to volcanic action, such as the boiling springs of the yellowstone. imagine a great hollow, looking like a gigantic bowl, perhaps half a mile in diameter and one hundred feet deep, enclosed by a series of barbed-wire fences and filled by thousands of kaffir workmen, looking, from a distance, like a gigantic swarm of ants—such was my first impression of the premier mine. the native labourers, who work in three shifts of eight hours each, after cleaving the “hard-blue” with their picks, load it onto trolley-cars, which are attached to a cable and hauled to the surface of the pit, where it is spread on mile-long fields and exposed for several months to rain, wind, and sun so as to effect decomposition. the softened lumps of earth, after being brought into still smaller fragments by the pickaxe, are then sent to the mills, where they are crushed, pulverised, washed, and finally sent to the “greaser” to get at the stones. until very recently men had to be employed to sort the washed “concentrates” and pick out the diamonds. but they would miss some. and the men had to be guarded lest they steal the gems. and detectives had to be hired to watch the guards who watched the men. but one day a mine employee named kirsten happened to notice that the diamonds, no matter how small or discoloured, always stuck to a greasy surface, just as iron filings stick to a magnet, while the [pg 242] dirt and other stones did not. that was the suggestion which led to the invention of the “kirsten greaser,” a series of sloping boards, heavily coated with grease, which are gently agitated as the mud and slime containing the diamonds are slowly washed over them, and which never fail to collect the precious stones.

at kimberley, which is the only other diamond-producing district of any importance in south africa, the gem-bearing ground extends over an area of but thirty-three acres, so that open mining has long since given way to shafts, which have now been sunk to a depth of two thousand five hundred feet, galleries being driven through the producing ground at every forty-foot level, precisely as in a coal mine. kimberley has a romantic and picturesque history. in 1869 you could not have found its name upon the map. in the following year a boer hunter, pitching his tent on the banks of the orange river, chanced to pick up a glittering stone from among the pebbles. the news of his find making its way overland to cape town, the submarine cables flashed it to every quarter of the globe, so that within a twelvemonth adventurers and fortune-seekers had flocked there in tens of thousands. by 1871 sixteen hundred claims, each thirty-one feet square, were being worked, each man digging out the earth on his own small plot, carrying it to one side, pulverising it by hand, and sifting it for diamonds. the dirt from one claim would fall into a neighbouring one, while some miners could not get their dirt out at all without crossing another's property, so that quarrels and lawsuits and [pg 243] shooting affrays soon began. about this time two quiet, uncommunicative, shabbily clad men appeared at kimberley and began to buy up the various claims, until, before any one really appreciated what was happening, the whole diamond industry of south africa was in their hands. those men were cecil john rhodes and barney barnato, and the great amalgamation which their skill and shrewdness effected, now known as the debeers consolidated mining company, was one of the greatest coups in the history of finance. it is this corporation which the women of the world have to blame for keeping up the price of diamonds, for the first thing it did was to close the greater part of the kimberley mines, keeping just enough open to produce the amount of stones which experience has proved that europe and america are able to take at a price high enough to leave a gratifying profit. although, as a result of this policy, the price of diamonds has been well maintained, the population of kimberley has been greatly reduced, the one great corporation, with its comparatively small staff of employees and its labour-saving machinery, having taken the place of the horde of independent adventurers of the early days.

it struck me that by far the most interesting sights, both at the kimberley and the premier mines, were the so-called compounds, in which the native labourers are confined, for the native who hires out to work in a diamond mine must submit, during the term of his contract, to as close confinement as a convict in a penitentiary; he knows that he is in danger of being shot by the [pg 244] guards if he attempts to escape; he is prepared to be searched daily with the same minuteness which customs inspectors display in the case of a known smuggler; and when his contract expires he has still to put up with a fortnight's solitary confinement, in which emetics and cathartics play an unpleasant part. the mine compounds are huge enclosures, unroofed but covered with a wire netting to prevent anything being thrown out over the walls. around the interior of the wall are rows of corrugated-iron huts, in which the natives live and sleep when they are not at work, while the open space in the middle is used for cooking, for washing, and for native games. the compounds are surrounded by three lines of barbed-wire fence which are constantly patrolled by armed sentries and illuminated at night by powerful search-lights; every entrance is as jealously guarded as that of a german fortress; and visitors are never admitted unless they bear a pass signed by the administration and are accompanied by a responsible official of the mine. although the government—which, as i have already remarked, takes sixty per cent of the mine's earnings—has made i. d. b. (illicit diamond-buying) a penal offence with a uniform punishment of twenty years at hard labour, and though the mining companies maintain espionage systems which rival those of many continental governments, no employee, from director down to day labourer, ever being free from scrutiny, millions of dollars' worth of diamonds are smuggled out of the mines each year. to encourage honesty, ten per cent of the value of any stone which a workman [pg 245] may find is given to him if he brings it himself to the overseer, well over a quarter of a million dollars being paid out annually on stones thus found.

the compound of the premier mine contained, at the time of my visit, something over twelve thousand natives, representing nearly every tribe from pondoland to the head-waters of the congo. here one sees zulus, fingos, pondos, basutos, bechuanas, matabele, mashonas, makalaka, and even bushmen from the kalahari country and masai from german east africa, all attracted by the high wages, which range from five to eight dollars a week. when the native's six-month contract has ended, he takes his wages in british sovereigns—and his earnings accumulate quickly because he can live on very little—goes home to his own tribe, perhaps six weeks' journey away, buys a wife and a yoke of oxen, and lives lazily ever after. not all of the natives are of so thrifty a turn of mind, however, for the company store holds many attractions for them and they are heavy purchasers of camel's-hair blankets, french perfumes, and imported cutlery, refusing almost invariably to take anything but the best.

i have tried to paint for you a comprehensive, though necessarily an impressionistic, picture of this great new nation that has sprung up so quickly in the antipodes, and to give you at least a rough idea of what its people, its soil, its towns, its climate, its resources, and its problems are like. that south africa will always be a country of great mineral wealth there is little doubt, for, when the supplies of gold and [pg 246] diamonds are exhausted, copper, iron, and coal should still furnish good returns. likewise, it will always be a great ranching country, for nearly all of its vast veldt is ideal, both in climate and pasturage, for live-stock. it will probably never become a manufacturing country, for coal is of poor quality, there is neither water power nor inland waterways, and labour is neither good nor cheap. if, as i have already remarked, government irrigation can be introduced as successfully as it has been in our own southwest, and if the malaria which makes the rich coast-lands almost uninhabitable can be exterminated as effectually as we have exterminated it on the isthmus of panama, i can see no reason why south africa should not eventually become one of the great agricultural countries of the world. though many south africans look forward to a day when the natives will begin to retire to the country north of the zambezi, and when a large european population will till their own farms, by their own labour, with the aid of government-assisted irrigation, i am personally of the opinion that south africa will never become at all evenly populated, but that it will always bear a marked resemblance to our southwest, with large areas devoted to the raising of sheep and cattle, with certain other areas irrigated for the raising of fruit, and with its population centred for the most part in towns scattered at long distances from one another, but connected by rapid railway communications.

everything considered, south africa is a country of big things—big pay, big prices, big opportunities, big [pg 247] obstacles, big resources, big rewards—and she needs young men to help her fight her battles and solve her problems. so, if i were a youngster, with the sheep-skin of a technical or agricultural school in my pocket, a few hundred dollars in my purse, and a longing for fortune and adventure in my heart, i think that i should walk into one of those steam-ship offices in bowling green and book a passage for that land of which some one has said, “fortune knocks at a man's door once in most countries, but in south africa she knocks twice.”