so far, momma said she had every reason to be pleased with the effect on her mind. about the senator's she would not commit herself, beyond saying that we had a great deal to be thankful for in that his health hadn't suffered, in spite of the indigestibility of that eternal french twist and honey that you were obliged on the continent to begin the day with. she hoped, i think, that the senator had absorbed other things beside the french twist equally unconsciously, with beneficial results that would appear later. he said himself that it was well worth anybody's while to make the trip, if only in order to be better satisfied with america for the rest of his life, but why people belonging to the united states and the nineteenth century should want to spend whole summers in the middle ages he failed to understand. both my parents, however, looked forward to venice with enthusiasm. momma expected it to be the realization of all her dreams, and poppa decided that it must, at all events, be unique. it couldn't have any arno or any campagna in the nature of things—that would be a change—and it was not possible to the human mind, however sophisticated, with a livelong experience of street cars and herdics, to stroll up and take a seat in a gondola and know exactly what would happen, where the fare-box was and everything, and whether they took swiss silver, and if a gentleman in a crowded gondola was expected to give up his seat to a lady and stand. poppa, as a stranger and unaccustomed to the motion, hoped this would not be the case, but i knew him well enough to predict that if it were so he would vindicate american gallantry at all risks.

thus it was that, from the moment momma put her head out of the car window, after mestre, and exclaimed, "it's getting wateryer and wateryer," venice was a source of the completest joy and satisfaction to both my parents. dicky and i took it with the more moderate appreciation natural to our years, but it gave us the greatest pleasure to watch the simple and unrestrained delight of momma and poppa, and to revert, as it were, in their experience, to what our own enjoyment might have been had we been born when they were. "no express agents, no delivery carts, no baggage checks," murmured poppa, as our trunks glided up to the hotel steps, "but it gets there all the same." this was the keynote of his admiration—everything got there all the same. the surprise of it was repeated every time anything got there, and was only dashed once when we saw brown-paper parcels being delivered by a boy at the back door of the palazzo balbi, who had evidently walked all the way. the senator commented upon that boy and his groceries as an inconsistency, and thereafter carefully closed his eyes to the fact that even our own hotel, which faced upon the grand canal, had communications to the rear by which its guests could explore a large part of commercial venice without going in a gondola at all. the canals were the only highways he would recognise, and he went three times to st. maria della salute, which was immediately opposite, for the sake of crossing the street in the venetian way. momma became really hopeful about the stimulus to his imagination; she told him so. "it appeals to you, alexander," she said. "its poetry comes home to you—you needn't deny it;" and poppa cordially admitted it. "yes," he said, "ruskin, according to the guide-book, doesn't seem as if he could say too much about this city, and bramley was just the same. they're both right, and if we were going to be here long enough i'd be like that myself. there's something about it that makes you willing to take a lot of trouble to describe it. there's no use saying it's the canals, or the reflections in the water, or the bridges, or the pigeons, or the gargoyles, or the gondolas——"

"or salviati, or jesurum," said momma, in lighter vein.

"your memory, augusta, for the names of old masters is perfectly wonderful," continued poppa placidly. "or salviati, or jesurum, or what. but there's a kind of local spell about this place——"

"there are various kinds of local smells," interrupted dicky, whom mrs. portheris still evaded, but this levity received no encouragement from the senator. he said instead that he hadn't noticed them himself. for his part he had come to venice to use his eyes, not his nose; and dicky, thus discouraged, faded visibly upon his stem.

i could see that poppa was still strongly under the influence of the venetian sentiment when he invited me to go out in a gondola with him after dinner, and pointedly neglected to suggest that either momma or dicky should come too. i had a presentiment of his intention. if i have seemed, thus far, to omit all reference to mr. page in boston, since we left paris, it is, first, because i believe it is not considered necessary in a book of travels to account for every half hour, and second, because i privately believed him to be in correspondence with the senator the whole time, and hesitated to expose his duplicity. i had given poppa opportunities for confessing this clandestine business, but in his paternal wisdom he had not taken them. i was not prepared, therefore, to be very responsive when, from a mere desire to indulge his sense of the fitness of things, poppa endeavoured to probe my sentiments with regard to mr. page by moonlight on the grand canal. to begin with, i wasn't sure of them—so much depended upon what arthur had been doing; and besides, i felt that the perfect confidence which should exist between father and daughter had already been a good deal damaged at the paternal end. so when poppa said that it must seem to me like a dream, so much had happened since the day momma and i left chicago at twenty-four hours' notice, six weeks ago, i said no, for my part i had felt pretty wide awake all the time; a person had to be, i ventured to add, with no more time to waste upon southern europe than we had.

"you mean you've been sleeping pretty badly," said the senator sympathetically.

"where was it," i inquired, "you would give us pounded crabs and cream for supper after we'd been to hear masses for the repose of somebody's soul? that was a bad night, but i don't think i've had any others. on the contrary."

"oh, well," said poppa, "it's a good thing it isn't undermining your constitution," but he looked as if it were rather a disappointment.

"the american constitution can stand a lot of transportation," i remarked. "railways live on that fact. i've heard you say so yourself, senator."

then there was an interval during which the oars of the gondoliers dipped musically, and the moon made a golden pathway to the marble steps of the palazzo contarina. then poppa said, "i refer to the object of our tour."

"the object of our tour wasn't to undermine my constitution," i replied. "it was to write a book—don't you remember. but it's some time since you made any suggestions. if you don't look out, the author of that volume will practically be momma."

the senator allowed himself to be diverted. "i think," he said, "you'd better leave the chapter on venice to me; you can't just talk anyhow about this city. i'll write it one of these nights before i go to bed."

"but the main reason," he continued, "that sent us to glide this minute over the canal system of the bride of the adriatic was the necessity of bracing you up after what you'd been through."

"well," i said, "it's been very successful. i'm all braced up. i'm glad we have had such a good excuse for coming." a fib is sometimes necessary to one's self-respect.

"premé!" cried the gondolier, and we shaved past the gondola of a solitary gentleman just leaving the steps of the hotel britannia.

"that was a shave!" poppa exclaimed, and added somewhat inconsequently, "you might just as well not speak so loud."

"i've always liked arty," he continued, as we glided on.

"so have i," i returned cordially.

"he's in many ways a lovely fellow," said poppa.

"i guess he is," said i.

"i don't believe," ventured my parent, "that his matrimonial ideas have cooled down any."

"i hope he may marry well," i said. "has he decided on frankie turner?"

"he has come to no decision that you don't know about. of course, i have no desire to interfere where it isn't any of my business, but if you wish to gratify your poppa, daughter, you will obey him in this matter, and permit arthur once more to—to come round evenings as he used to. he is a young man of moderate income, but a very level head, and it is the wish of my heart to see you reconciled."

"sorry i can't oblige you, poppa," i said. i certainly was not going to have any reconciliation effected by poppa.

"you'd better just consider it, daughter. i don't want to interfere—but you know my desire, my command."

"senator," said i, "you don't seem to realise that it takes more than a gondola to make a paternal doge. i've got to ask you to remember that i was born in chicago. and it's my bed time. gondolier! albergo! andate presto!"

"he seems to understand you," said poppa meekly.

so we dropped arthur—dropped him, so to speak, into the grand canal, and i really felt callous at the time as to whether he should ever come up again.

but the senator's joy in venice found other means of expressing itself. one was an active and disinterested appeal to the gondoliers to be a little less modern in their costume. he approached this subject through the guide with every gondolier in turn, and the smiling impassiveness with which his suggestions were received still causes him wonder and disgust. "i presume," he remonstrated, "you think you earn your living because tourists have got to get from the accademia to st. mark's, and from st. mark's to the bridge of sighs, but that's only a quarter of the reason. the other three-quarters is because they like to be rowed there in gondolas by the gondoliers they've read about, and the gondoliers they've read about wore proper gondoliering clothes—they didn't look like east river loafers."

"they are poor men, these gondolieri," remarked the guide. "they cannot afford."

"i am not an infant, my friend. i'm a business man from chicago. it's a business proposition. put your gondoliers into the styles they wore when andrea dandolo went looting constantinople, and you'll double your tourist traffic in five years. twice as many people wanting gondolas, wanting guides, wanting hotel accommodation, buying your coloured glass and lace flounces—why, great scott! it would pay the city to do the thing at the public expense. then you could pass a by-law forbidding gondoliering to be done in any style later than the fifteenth century. pay you over and over again."

poppa was in earnest, he wanted it done. he was only dissuaded from taking more active measures to make his idea public by the fact that he couldn't stay to put it through. he was told, of course, how the plain black gondola came to be enforced through the extravagance of the nobles who ruined themselves to have splendid ones, and how the venetians scrupled to depart from a historic mandate, but he considered this a feeble argument, probably perpetuated by somebody who enjoyed a monopoly in supplying venice with black paint. "circumstances alter cases," he declared. "if that old doge knew that the p. and o. was going to run direct between venice and bombay every fortnight this year, he'd tell you to turn out your gondolas silver-gilt!"

nevertheless, as i say, the senator's views were coldly received, with one exception. a highly picturesque and intelligent gondolier, whom the guide sought to convert to a sense of the anachronism of his clothes in connection with his calling, promised that if we would give him a definite engagement for next day, he would appear suitably clad. the following morning he awaited us with honest pride in his sunday apparel, which included violently checked trousers, a hard felt hat, and a large pink tie. the senator paid him hurriedly and handsomely and dismissed him with as little injury to his feelings as was possible under the circumstances. "tell him," said poppa to the guide, "to go home and take off those pants. and tell him, do you understand, to rush!"

that same day, in the afternoon, i remember, when we were disembarking for an ice at florian's, momma directed our attention to two gentlemen in an approaching gondola. "there's something about that man," she said impressively, "i mean the one in the duster, that belongs to the reign of louis philippe."

"there is," i responded; "we saw him last in the petit trianon. it's mr. pabbley and mr. hinkson. two more transatlantic fellow-travellers. senator, when we meet them shall we greet them?"

the senator had a moment of self-expostulation.

"well, no," he said, "i guess not. i don't suppose we need feel obliged to keep up the acquaintance of every american we come across in europe. it would take us all our time. but i'd like to ask him what use he finds for a duster in venice."

"how i wish the misses bingham could hear you," i thought, but one should never annoy one's parents unnecessarily, so i kept my reflections to myself.