i used to walk out with her about the city, seeing all that is there of beauty and magnificence. and in what city is there more that is worth the seeing? at first this was very delightful to me, for i felt that i was blessed with a privilege that would not be granted to any other man. but its value soon fell in my eyes, for others would accost her, and walk on the other side, talking to her in spanish, as though i hardly existed, or were a servant there for her protection. and i was not allowed to take her arm, and thus to appropriate her, as i should have done in england. “no, john,” she said, with the sweetest, prettiest smile, “we don’t do that here; only when people are married.” and she made this allusion to married life out, openly, with no slightest tremor on her tongue.

“oh, i beg pardon,” said i, drawing back my hand, and feeling angry with myself for not being fully acquainted with all the customs of a foreign country.

“you need not beg pardon,” said she; “when we were in england we always walked so. it is just a custom, you know.” and then i saw her drop her large dark eyes to the ground, and bow gracefully in answer to some salute.

i looked round, and saw that we had been joined by a young cavalier,—a spanish nobleman, as i saw at once; a man with jet black hair, and a straight nose, and a black moustache, and patent leather boots, very slim and very tall, and—though i would not confess it then—uncommonly handsome. i myself am inclined to be stout, my hair is light, my nose broad, i have no hair on my upper lip, and my whiskers are rough and uneven. “i could punch your head though, my fine fellow,” said i to myself, when i saw that he placed himself at maria’s side, “and think very little of the achievement.”

the wretch went on with us round the plaza for some quarter of an hour talking spanish with the greatest fluency, and she was every whit as fluent. of course i could not understand a word that they said. of all positions that a man can occupy, i think that that is about the most uncomfortable; and i cannot say that, even up to this day, i have quite forgiven her for that quarter of an hour.

“i shall go in,” said i, unable to bear my feelings, and preparing to leave her. “the heat is unendurable.”

“oh dear, john, why did you not speak before?” she answered. “you cannot leave me here, you know, as i am in your charge; but i will go with you almost directly.” and then she finished her conversation with the spaniard, speaking with an animation she had never displayed in her conversations with me.

it had been agreed between us for two or three days before this, that we were to rise early on the following morning for the sake of ascending the tower of the cathedral, and visiting the giralda, as the iron figure is called, which turns upon a pivot on the extreme summit. we had often wandered together up and down the long dark gloomy aisle of the stupendous building, and had, together, seen its treasury of art; but as yet we had not performed the task which has to be achieved by all visitors to seville; and in order that we might have a clear view over the surrounding country, and not be tormented by the heat of an advanced sun, we had settled that we would ascend the giralda before breakfast.

and now, as i walked away from the plaza towards mr. daguilar’s house, with maria by my side, i made up my mind that i would settle my business during this visit to the cathedral. yes, and i would so manage the settlement that there should be no doubt left as to my intentions and my own ideas. i would not be guilty of shilly-shally conduct; i would tell her frankly what i felt and what i thought, and would make her understand that i did not desire her hand if i could not have her heart. i did not value the kindness of her manner, seeing that that kindness sprung from indifference rather than passion; and so i would declare to her. and i would ask her, also, who was this young man with whom she was intimate—for whom all her volubility and energy of tone seemed to be employed? she had told me once that it behoved her to consult a friend in seville as to the expediency of her marriage with me. was this the friend whom she had wished to consult? if so, she need not trouble herself. under such circumstances i should decline the connection! and i resolved that i would find out how this might be. a man who proposes to take a woman to his bosom as his wife, has a right to ask for information—ay, and to receive it too. it flashed upon my mind at this moment that donna maria was well enough inclined to come to me as my wife, but —. i could hardly define the “buts” to myself, for there were three or four of them. why did she always speak to me in a tone of childish affection, as though i were a schoolboy home for the holidays? i would have all this out with her on the tower on the following morning, standing under the giralda.

on that morning we met together in the patio, soon after five o’clock, and started for the cathedral. she looked beautiful, with her black mantilla over her head, and with black gloves on, and her black morning silk dress—beautiful, composed, and at her ease, as though she were well satisfied to undertake this early morning walk from feelings of good nature—sustained, probably, by some under-current of a deeper sentiment. well; i would know all about it before i returned to her father’s house.

there hardly stands, as i think, on the earth, a building more remarkable than the cathedral of seville, and hardly one more grand. its enormous size; its gloom and darkness; the richness of ornamentation in the details, contrasted with the severe simplicity of the larger outlines; the variety of its architecture; the glory of its paintings; and the wondrous splendour of its metallic decoration, its altar-friezes, screens, rails, gates, and the like, render it, to my mind, the first in interest among churches. it has not the coloured glass of chartres, or the marble glory of milan, or such a forest of aisles as antwerp, or so perfect a hue in stone as westminster, nor in mixed beauty of form and colour does it possess anything equal to the choir of cologne; but, for combined magnificence and awe-compelling grandeur, i regard it as superior to all other ecclesiastical edifices.

it is its deep gloom with which the stranger is so greatly struck on his first entrance. in a region so hot as the south of spain, a cool interior is a main object with the architect, and this it has been necessary to effect by the exclusion of light; consequently the church is dark, mysterious, and almost cold. on the morning in question, as we entered, it seemed to be filled with gloom, and the distant sound of a slow footstep here and there beyond the transept inspired one almost with awe. maria, when she first met me, had begun to talk with her usual smile, offering me coffee and a biscuit before i started. “i never eat biscuit,” i said, with almost a severe tone, as i turned from her. that dark, horrid man of the plaza—would she have offered him a cake had she been going to walk with him in the gloom of the morning? after that little had been spoken between us. she walked by my side with her accustomed smile; but she had, as i flattered myself, begun to learn that i was not to be won by a meaningless good nature. “we are lucky in our morning for the view!” that was all she said, speaking with that peculiarly clear, but slow pronunciation which she had assumed in learning our language.

we entered the cathedral, and, walking the whole length of the aisle, left it again at the porter’s porch at the farther end. here we passed through a low door on to the stone flight of steps, and at once began to ascend. “there are a party of your countrymen up before us,” said maria; “the porter says that they went through the lodge half an hour since.” “i hope they will return before we are on the top,” said i, bethinking myself of the task that was before me. and indeed my heart was hardly at ease within me, for that which i had to say would require all the spirit of which i was master.

the ascent to the giralda is very long and very fatiguing; and we had to pause on the various landings and in the singular belfry in order that miss daguilar might recruit her strength and breath. as we rested on one of these occasions, in a gallery which runs round the tower below the belfry, we heard a great noise of shouting, and a clattering of sticks among the bells. “it is the party of your countrymen who went up before us,” said she. “what a pity that englishmen should always make so much noise!” and then she spoke in spanish to the custodian of the bells, who is usually to be found in a little cabin up there within the tower. “he says that they went up shouting like demons,” continued maria; and it seemed to me that she looked as though i ought to be ashamed of the name of an englishman. “they may not be so solemn in their demeanour as spaniards,” i answered; “but, for all that, there may be quite as much in them.”

we then again began to mount, and before we had ascended much farther we passed my three countrymen. they were young men, with gray coats and gray trousers, with slouched hats, and without gloves. they had fair faces and fair hair, and swung big sticks in their hands, with crooked handles. they laughed and talked loud, and, when we met them, seemed to be racing with each other; but nevertheless they were gentlemen. no one who knows by sight what an english gentleman is, could have doubted that; but i did acknowledge to myself that they should have remembered that the edifice they were treading was a church, and that the silence they were invading was the cherished property of a courteous people.

“they are all just the same as big boys,” said maria. the colour instantly flew into my face, and i felt that it was my duty to speak up for my own countrymen. the word “boys” especially wounded my ears. it was as a boy that she treated me; but, on looking at that befringed young spanish don—who was not, apparently, my elder in age—she had recognised a man. however, i said nothing further till i reached the summit. one cannot speak with manly dignity while one is out of breath on a staircase.

“there, john,” she said, stretching her hands away over the fair plain of the guadalquivir, as soon as we stood against the parapet; “is not that lovely?”

i would not deign to notice this. “maria,” i said, “i think that you are too hard upon my countrymen?”

“too hard! no; for i love them. they are so good and industrious; and come home to their wives, and take care of their children. but why do they make themselves so—so—what the french call gauche?”

“good and industrious, and come home to their wives!” thought i. “i believe you hardly understand us as yet,” i answered. “our domestic virtues are not always so very prominent; but, i believe, we know how to conduct ourselves as gentlemen: at any rate, as well as spaniards.” i was very angry—not at the faults, but at the good qualities imputed to us.

“in affairs of business, yes,” said maria, with a look of firm confidence in her own opinion—that look of confidence which she has never lost, and i pray that she may never lose it while i remain with her—“but in the little intercourses of the world, no! a spaniard never forgets what is personally due either to himself or his neighbours. if he is eating an onion, he eats it as an onion should be eaten.”

“in such matters as that he is very grand, no doubt,” said i, angrily.

“and why should you not eat an onion properly, john? now, i heard a story yesterday from don—about two englishmen, which annoyed me very much.” i did not exactly catch the name of the don in question but i felt through every nerve in my body that it was the man who had been talking to her on the plaza.

“and what have they done?” said i. “but it is the same everywhere. we are always abused; but, nevertheless, no people are so welcome. at any rate, we pay for the mischief we do.” i was angry with myself the moment the words were out of my mouth, for, after all, there is no feeling more mean than that pocket-confidence with which an englishman sometimes swaggers.

“there was no mischief done in this case,” she answered. “it was simply that two men have made themselves ridiculous for ever. the story is all about seville, and, of course, it annoys me that they should be englishmen.”

“and what did they do?”

“the marquis d’almavivas was coming up to seville in the boat, and they behaved to him in the most outrageous manner. he is here now and is going to give a series of fêtes. of course he will not ask a single englishman.”

“we shall manage to live even though the marquis d’almavivas may frown upon us,” said i, proudly.

“he is the richest, and also the best of our noblemen,” continued maria; “and i never heard of anything so absurd as what they did to him. it made me blush when don — told me.” don tomàs, i thought she said.

“if he be the best of your noblemen, how comes it that he is angry because he has met two vulgar men? it is not to be supposed that every englishman is a gentleman.”

“angry! oh, no! he was not angry; he enjoyed the joke too much for that. he got completely the best of them, though they did not know it; poor fools! how would your lord john russell behave if two spaniards in an english railway carriage were to pull him about and tear his clothes?”

“he would give them in charge to a policeman, of course,” said i, speaking of such a matter with the contempt it deserved.

“if that were done here your ambassador would be demanding national explanations. but almavivas did much better;—he laughed at them without letting them know it.”

“but do you mean that they took hold of him violently, without any provocation? they must have been drunk.”

“oh, no, they were sober enough. i did not see it, so i do not quite know exactly how it was, but i understand that they committed themselves most absurdly, absolutely took hold of his coat and tore it, and—; but they did such ridiculous things that i cannot tell you.” and yet don tomàs, if that was the man’s name, had been able to tell her, and she had been able to listen to him.

“‘what made them take hold of the marquis?” said i.

“curiosity, i suppose,” she answered. “he dresses somewhat fancifully, and they could not understand that any one should wear garments different from their own.” but even then the blow did not strike home upon me.

“is it not pretty to look down upon the quiet town?” she said, coming close up to me, so that the skirt of her dress pressed me, and her elbow touched my arm. now was the moment i should have asked her how her heart stood towards me; but i was sore and uncomfortable, and my destiny was before me. she was willing enough to let these english faults pass without further notice, but i would not allow the subject i drop.

“i will find out who these men were,” said i, “and learn the truth of it. when did it occur?”

“last thursday, i think he said.”

“why, that was the day we came up in the boat, johnson and myself. there was no marquis there then, and we were the only englishmen on board.”

“it was on thursday, certainly, because it was well known in seville that he arrived on that day. you must have remarked him because he talks english perfectly—though by-the-bye, these men would go on chattering before him about himself as though it were impossible that a spaniard should know their language. they are ignorant of spanish, and they cannot bring themselves to believe that any one should be better educated than themselves.”

now the blow had fallen, and i straightway appreciated the necessity of returning immediately to clapham where my family resided, and giving up for ever all idea of spanish connections. i had resolved to assert the full strength of my manhood on that tower, and now words had been spoken which left me weak as a child. i felt that i was shivering, and did not dare to pronounce the truth which must be made known. as to speaking of love, and signifying my pleasure that don tomàs should for the future be kept at a distance, any such effort was quite beyond me. had don tomàs been there, he might have walked off with her from before my face without a struggle on my part. “now i remember about it,” she continued, “i think he must have been in the boat on thursday.”

“and now that i remember,” i replied, turning away to hide my embarrassment, “he was there. your friend down below in the plaza seems to have made out a grand story. no doubt he is not fond of the english. there was such a man there, and i did take hold—”

“oh, john, was it you?”

“yes, donna maria, it was i; and if lord john russell were to dress himself in the same way—” but i had no time to complete my description of what might occur under so extravagantly impossible a combination of circumstances, for as i was yet speaking, the little door leading out on to the leads of the tower was opened and my friend, the mayo of the boat, still bearing gewgaws on his back, stepped up on to the platform. my eye instantly perceived that the one pendule was still missing from his jacket. he did not come alone, but three other gentlemen followed him, who, however, had no peculiarities in their dress. he saw me at once and bowed and smiled; and then observing donna maria, he lifted his cap from his head, and addressing himself to her in spanish, began to converse with her as though she were an old friend.

“se?or,” said maria, after the first words of greeting had been spoken between them; “you must permit me to present to you my father’s most particular friend, and my own,—mr. pomfret; john, this is the marquis d’almavivas.”

i cannot now describe the grace with which this introduction was effected, or the beauty of her face as she uttered the word. there was a boldness about her as though she had said, “i know it all—the whole story. but, in spite of that you must take him on my representation, and be gracious to him in spite of what he has done. you must be content to do that; or in quarrelling with him you must quarrel with me also.” and it was done at the spur of the moment—without delay. she, who not five minutes since had been loudly condemning the unknown englishman for his rudeness, had already pardoned him, now that he was known to be her friend; and had determined that he should be pardoned by others also or that she would share his disgrace. i recognised the nobleness of this at the moment; but, nevertheless, i was so sore that i would almost have preferred that she should have disowned me.

the marquis immediately lifted his cap with his left hand while he gave me his right. “i have already had the pleasure of meeting this gentleman,” he said; “we had some conversation in the boat together.”

“yes,” said i, pointing to his rent, “and you still bear the marks of our encounter.”

“was it not delightful, donna maria,” he continued, turning to her; “your friend’s friend took me for a torero?”

“and it served you properly, se?or,” said donna maria, laughing, “you have no right to go about with all those rich ornaments upon you.”

“oh! quite properly; indeed, i make no complaint; and i must beg your friend to understand, and his friend also, how grateful i am for their solicitude as to my pecuniary welfare. they were inclined to be severe on me for being so extravagant in such trifles. i was obliged to explain that i had no wife at home kept without her proper allowance of dresses, in order that i might be gay.”

“they are foreigners, and you should forgive their error,” said she.

“and in token that i do so,” said the marquis, “i shall beg your friend to accept the little ornament which attracted his attention.” and so saying, he pulled the identical button out of his pocket, and gracefully proffered it to me.

“i shall carry it about with me always,” said i, accepting it, “as a memento of humiliation. when i look at it, i shall ever remember the folly of an englishman and the courtesy of a spaniard;” and as i made the speech i could not but reflect whether it might, under any circumstances, be possible that lord john russell should be induced to give a button off his coat to a spaniard.

there were other civil speeches made, and before we left the tower the marquis had asked me to his parties, and exacted from me an unwilling promise that i would attend them. “the se?ora,” he said, bowing again to maria, “would, he was sure, grace them. she had done so on the previous year; and as i had accepted his little present i was bound to acknowledge him as my friend.” all this was very pretty, and of course i said that i would go, but i had not at that time the slightest intention of doing so. maria had behaved admirably; she had covered my confusion, and shown herself not ashamed to own me, delinquent as i was; but, not the less, had she expressed her opinion, in language terribly strong, of the awkwardness of which i had been guilty, and had shown almost an aversion to my english character. i should leave seville as quickly as i could, and should certainly not again put myself in the way of the marquis d’almavivas. indeed, i dreaded the moment that i should be first alone with her, and should find myself forced to say something indicative of my feelings—to hear something also indicative of feelings. i had come out this morning resolved to demand my rights and to exercise them—and now my only wish was to run away. i hated the marquis, and longed to be alone that i might cast his button from me. to think that a man should be so ruined by such a trifle!

we descended that prodigious flight without a word upon the subject, and almost without a word at all. she had carried herself well in the presence of almavivas, and had been too proud to seem ashamed of her companion; but now, as i could well see, her feelings of disgust and contempt had returned. when i begged her not to hurry herself, she would hardly answer me; and when she did speak, her voice was constrained and unlike herself. and yet how beautiful she was! well, my dream of spanish love must be over. but i was sure of this; that having known her, and given her my heart, i could never afterwards share it with another.

we came out at last on the dark, gloomy aisle of the cathedral, and walked together without a word up along the side of the choir, till we came to the transept. there was not a soul near us, and not a sound was to be heard but the distant, low pattering of a mass, then in course of celebration at some far-off chapel in the cathedral. when we got to the transept maria turned a little, as though she was going to the transept door, and then stopped herself. she stood still; and when i stood also, she made two steps towards me, and put her hand on my arm. “oh, john!” she said.

“‘well,” said i; “after all it does not signify. you can make a joke of it when my back is turned.”

“dearest john!”—she had never spoken to me in that way before—“you must not be angry with me. it is better that we should explain to each other, is it not?”

“oh, much better. i am very glad you heard of it at once. i do not look at it quite in the same light that you do; but nevertheless—”

“what do you mean? but i know you are angry with me. and yet you cannot think that i intended those words for you. of course i know now that there was nothing rude in what passed.”

“oh, but there was.”

“no, i am sure there was not. you could not be rude though you are so free hearted. i see it all now, and so does the marquis. you will like him so much when you come to know him. tell me that you won’t be cross with me for what i have said. sometimes i think that i have displeased you, and yet my whole wish has been to welcome you to seville, and to make you comfortable as an old friend. promise me that you will not be cross with me.”

cross with her! i certainly had no intention of being cross, but i had begun to think that she would not care what my humour might be. “maria,” i said, taking hold of her hand.

“no, john, do not do that. it is in the church, you know.”

“maria, will you answer me a question?”

“yes,” she said, very slowly, looking dawn upon the stone slabs beneath our feet.

“do you love me?”

“love you!”

“yes, do you love me? you were to give me an answer here, in seville, and now i ask for it. i have almost taught myself to think that it is needless to ask; and now this horrid mischance—”

“what do you mean?” said she, speaking very quickly.

“why this miserable blunder about the marquis’s button! after that i suppose—”

“the marquis! oh, john, is that to make a difference between you and me?—a little joke like that?”

“but does it not?”

“make a change between us!—such a thing as that! oh, john!”

“but tell me, maria, what am i to hope? if you will say that you can love me, i shall care nothing for the marquis. in that case i can bear to be laughed at.”

“who will dare to laugh at you? not the marquis, whom i am sure you will like.”

“your friend in this plaza, who told you of all this.”

“what, poor tomàs!”

“i do not know about his being poor. i mean the gentleman who was with you last night.”

“yes, tomàs. you do not know who he is?”

“not in the least.”

“how droll! he is your own clerk—partly your own, now that you are one of the firm. and, john, i mean to make you do something for him; he is such a good fellow; and last year he married a young girl whom i love—oh, almost like a sister.”

do something for him! of course i would. i promised, then and there, that i would raise his salary to any conceivable amount that a spanish clerk could desire; which promise i have since kept, if not absolutely to the letter, at any rate, to an extent which has been considered satisfactory by the gentleman’s wife.

“but, maria—dearest maria—”

“remember, john, we are in the church; and poor papa will be waiting breakfast.”

i need hardly continue the story further. it will be known to all that my love-suit throve in spite of my unfortunate raid on the button of the marquis d’almavivas, at whose series of fêtes through that month i was, i may boast, an honoured guest. i have since that had the pleasure of entertaining him in my own poor house in england, and one of our boys bears his christian name.

from that day in which i ascended the giralda to this present day in which i write, i have never once had occasion to complain of a deficiency of romance either in maria daguilar or in maria pomfret.