the cultivation of rice necessitated keeping the fields flooded with river water until it became stagnant, and the whole atmosphere was polluted by the dreadful smell. no white person could remain on the plantation without danger of the most virulent fever, always spoken of as “country fever.” so the planters removed their families from their beautiful homes the last week in may, and they never returned until the first week in november, by which time cold weather had come and the danger of malarial fever gone. the formula was to wait for a black frost before moving; i believe that is purely a local expression; three white frosts make a black frost; that means that all the potato vines and all the other delicate plants had been killed so completely that the leaves were black.

at the end of may my father’s entire household migrated to the sea, which was only four miles to the east of chicora as the crow flies, but was only to be reached by going seven miles in a rowboat and four miles by land. the vehicles,{68} horses, cows, furniture, bedding, trunks, provisions were all put into great flats, some sixty by twenty feet, others even larger, at first dawn, and sent ahead. then the family got into the rowboat and were rowed down the pee dee, then through squirrel creek, with vines tangled above them and water-lilies and flags and wild roses and scarlet lobelia all along the banks, and every now and then the hands would stop their song a moment to call out: “missy, a alligator!” and there on the reeds and marsh in some sunny cove lay a great alligator basking in the sun, fast asleep. as soon as the sound of the oars reached him, he would plunge into the water, making great waves on which the boat rose and fell in a way suggestive of the ocean itself. the way was teeming with life; birds of every hue and note flew from tree to tree on the banks; here and there on top of a tall cypress a mother hawk could be seen sitting on her nest, looking down with anxious eye, while around, in ever-narrowing circles, flew her fierce mate, with shrill cries, threatening death to the intruder. no one who has not rowed through these creeks in the late spring or early summer can imagine the abundance and variety of life everywhere. on every log floating down the{69} stream or lodged along the shore, on such a summer day rows of little turtles can be seen fast asleep, just as many as the log will hold, ranging from the size of a dinner-plate to a dessert-plate, only longer than they are broad—the darkies call them “cooters” (they make a most delicious soup or stew)—so many it is hard to count the number one sees in one trip. besides all this, there is the less-pleasing sight of snakes on the banks and sometimes on the tree overhanging the water, also basking in the sun so trying to human beings at midday. but my mother was enchanted with this row, so perfectly new to her, and the negro boat-songs also delighted her. there were six splendid oarsmen, who sang from the moment the boat got well under way. oh, there is nothing like the rhythm and swing of those boat-songs. “in case if i neber see you any mo’, i’m hopes to meet yu on canaan’s happy sho’,” and “roll, jordan, roll,” and “run, mary, run,” “drinkin’ wine, drinkin’ wine,” “oh, zion!” i am filled with longing when i think of them. i was born at the seaside, and from that time until i was eighteen, the move from the plantation to the sea beach at the end of may, and the return home to the plantation the first week{70} in november were great events and a perfect joy.

of course, it was different for my mother, for the tearing up of stakes just as she had got accustomed to her new home and new life, the packing up of everything necessary for comfort for every member of the household for the summer and autumn was terrific. it required so much thought, so many lists, so much actual labor. at the same time carpets, curtains, and all the winter clothing had to be aired, sunned, and put up with camphor against the moths. she was pretty well worn out and tired by this new aspect of her future life, this upheaval and earthquake to be gone through twice a year, so that when she stepped into the boat she was not her gayest self; but, when the things were all stored in, the lunch-baskets and valises and a big moss-wrapped bunch of roses, and the dogs at her feet; when papa, seated by her, took the rudder ropes, when the boat shot out into the river and the hands broke into song, preceded by each one calling aloud to the other, “let’s go, boys, let’s go,” she told me it was the most delightful revelation and sensation of her life almost. she had never been in a rowboat before; she had never been on a river. she had grown up in the interior, far in the hill country near the upper{71} waters of the savannah river, a rocky stream, where no woman ever thought of going in a boat. this swift, delightful movement, with the glorious sunshine and fresh morning breeze—for they always made an early start, there being so much to be done at the other end—made the row only too short.

but new pleasures awaited her, for the flat with the horses had gone ahead of them, starting with the ebb tide, at four in the morning; and, when they landed at the wharf at waverly on the waccamaw (which belonged to my father’s elder brother, general joseph allston, who died leaving his two sons, joseph blythe and william allan, to papa’s care and guardianship), they found the horses all ready saddled, and they mounted and rode the four miles to “canaan,” where they were to spend the summer. it was on the seashore, just at an inlet where the ocean view was; and, as mamma saw the great waves come rolling in, she was filled with joy anew. to me it has always been intoxicating, that first view each year of the waves rolling, rolling; and the smell of the sea, and the brilliant blue expanse; but then i was born there and it is like a renewal of birth.{72}

my mother enjoyed her life here. it was much simpler than that at the plantation, with fewer servants, and that she much enjoyed. they had breakfast at six o’clock every morning, and as soon as breakfast was over, papa mounted his horse and rode to waverly, where the boat met him. his horse was put in the stable and he rowed to chicora, went over all the crop, the rice-fields first, landing on the bank opposite the house and walking round all the planted fields, seeing that the water was kept on the rice just at the right depth, that the fields which had been dried for hoeing were dry enough to begin on them with the hoe. there is a real science in rice-planting, and my father was thoroughly versed in it and most diligent in seeing after the treatment of each field. he was always followed by the trunk minder, jacob, and in every field jacob went down the bank to the water edge and drew out a stalk or two of rice for papa to examine the root growth, by which the water is managed. this accomplished, papa crossed to the house, where a horse was ready saddled. he mounted and rode all over the upland crop, corn, potatoes, oats, peas; went into the house, which maum mary kept fresh and clean, wrote a few letters, drank a glass{73} of buttermilk and ate some fruit, got into his boat again, and returned to the seashore for a three-o’clock dinner, having done a tremendous day’s work; and he never failed, with all his work, to go into the garden and gather a bunch of roses and pink oleander to bring to mamma. of course, his homecoming was the event of the day to my mother.

soon papa’s aunt, mrs. blythe, came to be with them for the summer, which was a great pleasure to mamma. she was a woman of noble character and ample means, who was specially devoted to my father, having no children of her own, and recognizing in him a kindred nature. aunt blythe was a true specimen of the “grande dame” of the old south. she had been brought up to responsibility, to command herself and others; she was an old lady when mamma first knew her, but tall and stately in figure and beautiful in face. she brought her own barouche, horses, and coachman and footman, and her own maid and laundress—in short, a retinue. i never saw aunt blythe, as she died before i was born, but the tales of her generosity and her grandeur which were told by white and black placed her in the category of fairies and other benign spirits. i{74} was named after aunt blythe, a rare instance of posthumous gratitude, i think; and my mother, in the way she did it, showed a sympathetic, romantic understanding of aunt blythe’s nature. she had been sought in marriage in her early youth by her first cousin, john waties; but, when he approached her father and asked for his consent, he refused absolutely, as he disapproved of the marriage of cousins. so aunt blythe and her lover agreed not to be married during the father’s lifetime. alas, alas! john waties died very soon! he left all his property to his fiancée, which made her the rich woman of the family. this property included a large and valuable rice-plantation, with a large number of negroes. aunt blythe felt this a great trust and responsibility and most difficult to manage, for it was almost impossible to get an overseer who would treat the negroes with gentleness and justice. the men who sought the place of overseer in those days were invariably from the north, their one idea being to get as much work from the hands as possible, and, consequently, make as much money. aunt blythe could not live alone in this isolated spot, the barony of friendfield (it is the plantation now owned by doctor baruch and kept by{75} him as a game-preserve), and, after trying one overseer after another, and finding them cruel and regardless in their treatment of her people, she accepted one of her many suitors, doctor blythe, who had been a surgeon in the revolutionary war. she was then able to live on her plantation and to see that her negroes were kindly and properly managed and looked after. mamma became devoted to aunt blythe and wanted to name her second daughter after her, but my father wanted her named after his mother, who had died a few years before his marriage, so he named her charlotte; but mamma wanted aunt blythe’s name in, so she asked to have the name charlotte frances—aunt blythe’s name was elizabeth frances—and papa consented, but he always called the beautiful little girl charlotte, while mamma called her frances. she died when she was about four, a grief my mother felt to the very end, with strange poignancy. when, some years after aunt blythe’s death, i made my appearance on the scene, mamma named me for her; but, instead of giving me the very pretty name of her excellent husband, she gave me the name of the man she loved, john waties. so, instead of being elizabeth blythe allston, i was named{76} elizabeth waties allston; not nearly so pretty a name, but it really made me the child of romance, i think. it was a beautiful thought and would have greatly pleased aunt blythe if she had known.

all of this has taken me from that first summer of my mother’s married life on the seashore. it was a very happy one, the long mornings spent in sewing and talking with one who knew people and life, which my mother did not at all; and, above all, who knew this very peculiar life, surrounded by hundreds of a different race, with absolutely different characteristics and ideas. mamma told me that once she had said in a despairing voice to her:

“but, auntie, are there no honest negroes? in your experience, have you found none honest?”

“my dear, i have found none honest, but i have found many, many trustworthy; and, adèle, when you think of it, that really is a higher quality. it is like bravery and courage; bravery is the natural, physical almost, absence of fear; courage is the spiritual quality which makes a man encounter danger confidently in spite of inward fear. and so honesty is a natural endowment, but trustworthiness is the quality of loyalty, of fidelity{77} which will make a man die rather than betray a trust; and that beautiful quality i have often found. when found, you must give it full recognition and seem to trust absolutely; one trace of suspicion will kill it; but one may make a mistake, and it is well, with every appearance of complete trust, to keep your mind alert and on the subject.”

my mother exclaimed: “oh, my dear auntie, i do not see how i can live my whole life amid these people! i don’t see how you have done it and kept your beautiful poise and serenity! to be always among people whom i do not understand and whom i must guide and teach and lead on like children! it frightens me!”

aunt blythe laid her hand on my mother’s hand and said: “adèle, it is a life of self-repression and effort, but it is far from being a degrading life, as you have once said to me. it is a very noble life, if a woman does her full duty in it. it is the life of a missionary, really; one must teach, train, uplift, encourage—always encourage, even in reproof. i grant you it is a life of effort; but, my child, it is our life: the life of those who have the great responsibility of owning human beings. we are responsible before our maker for not only their{78} bodies, but their souls; and never must we for one moment forget that. to be the wife of a rice-planter is no place for a pleasure-loving, indolent woman, but for an earnest, true-hearted woman it is a great opportunity, a great education. to train others one must first train oneself; it requires method, power of organization, grasp of detail, perception of character, power of speech; above all, endless self-control. that is why i pleaded with my dear sister until she consented to send robert to west point instead of to college. robert was to be a manager and owner of large estates and many negroes. he was a high-spirited, high-tempered boy, brought up principally by women. the discipline of four years at west point would teach him first of all to obey, to yield promptly to authority; and no one can command unless he has first learned to obey. it rejoices my heart to see robert the strong, absolutely self-controlled, self-contained man he now is; for i mean to leave him my property and my negroes, to whom i have devoted much care, and who are now far above the average in every way, and i know he will continue my work; and, from what i see of you, my child, i believe you will help him.”

my mother told me that this talk with aunt{79} blythe influenced her whole life. it altered completely her point of view. it enabled her to see a light on the path ahead of her, where all had been dark and stormy before; the life which had looked to her unbearable, and to her mind almost degrading. aunt blythe urged her daily to organize her household so that she would have less physical work herself, and that part should be delegated to the servants, who might not at first do it well, but who could be taught and trained to do it regularly and in the end well. with aunt blythe’s help she arranged a programme of duties for each servant, and aunt blythe’s trained and very superior maid was able to assist greatly in the training of mamma’s willing but raw servants.

the old lady was most regular in taking her daily drives and always insisted on my mother’s going with her. it was a great amusement to her to see the preparations made. aunt blythe was big and heavy and always wore black satin slippers without heels. mamma said she had never seen her take a step on mother earth except to and from the carriage, when she was always assisted. she wore an ample, plainly gathered black silk gown, with waist attached to skirt, cut rather low in the neck, and a white kerchief of fine white net for morning, and lace for dress,{80} crossed in front, and a white cap. we have her portrait by sully in that dress. she always carried a large silk bag filled with useful things, and as they met darkies on the way, aunt blythe would throw out to each one, without stopping the carriage, a handkerchief or apron, a paper of needles, or a paper of pins, or a spool of thread, or a card of buttons or hooks and eyes, or a spoon or fork—all things greatly prized, for in those days all these things were much scarcer than they are to-day, and there were no country shops as there are now, and, consequently, such small things were worth ten times as much as now to people, though they might not really cost as much as they now do. sometimes it was a little package of tea or coffee or sugar which she had minda, her maid, prepare and tie up securely for the purpose. naturally, “miss betsey bly” was looked upon as a great personage, and her path in her daily drives was apt to be crossed by many foot-passengers, who greeted her with profound courtesies, and apron skilfully tucked over the arm, so that it could be extended in time to receive anything.