heidelberg castle must have been very beautiful before the french battered and bruised and scorched it two hundred years ago. the stone is brown, with a pinkish tint, and does not seem to stain easily. the dainty and elaborate ornamentation upon its two chief fronts is as delicately carved as if it had been intended for the interior of a drawing-room rather than for the outside of a house. many fruit and flower clusters, human heads and grim projecting lions’ heads are still as perfect in every detail as if they were new. but the statues which are ranked between the windows have suffered. these are life-size statues of old-time emperors, electors, and similar grandees, clad in mail and bearing ponderous swords. some have lost an arm, some a head, and one poor fellow is chopped off at the middle. there is a saying that if a stranger will pass over the drawbridge and walk across the court to the castle front without saying anything, he can make a wish and it will be fulfilled. but they say that the truth of this thing has never had a chance to be proved, for the reason that before any stranger can walk from the drawbridge to the appointed place, the beauty of the palace front will extort an exclamation of delight from him.

a ruin must be rightly situated, to be effective. this one could not have been better placed. it stands upon a commanding elevation, it is buried in green woods, there is no level ground about it, but, on the contrary, there are wooded terraces upon terraces, and one looks down through shining leaves into profound chasms and abysses where twilight reigns and the sun cannot intrude. nature knows how to garnish a ruin to get the best effect. one of these old towers is split down the middle, and one half has tumbled aside. it tumbled in such a way as to establish itself in a picturesque attitude. then all it lacked was a fitting drapery, and nature has furnished that; she has robed the rugged mass in flowers and verdure, and made it a charm to the eye. the standing half exposes its arched and cavernous rooms to you, like open, toothless mouths; there, too, the vines and flowers have done their work of grace. the rear portion of the tower has not been neglected, either, but is clothed with a clinging garment of polished ivy which hides the wounds and stains of time. even the top is not left bare, but is crowned with a flourishing group of trees and shrubs. misfortune has done for this old tower what it has done for the human character sometimes—improved it.

a gentleman remarked, one day, that it might have been fine to live in the castle in the day of its prime, but that we had one advantage which its vanished inhabitants lacked—the advantage of having a charming ruin to visit and muse over. but that was a hasty idea. those people had the advantage of us. they had the fine castle to live in, and they could cross the rhine valley and muse over the stately ruin of trifels besides. the trifels people, in their day, five hundred years ago, could go and muse over majestic ruins that have vanished, now, to the last stone. there have always been ruins, no doubt; and there have always been pensive people to sigh over them, and asses to scratch upon them their names and the important date of their visit. within a hundred years after adam left eden, the guide probably gave the usual general flourish with his hand and said: “place where the animals were named, ladies and gentlemen; place where the tree of the forbidden fruit stood; exact spot where adam and eve first met; and here, ladies and gentlemen, adorned and hallowed by the names and addresses of three generations of tourists, we have the crumbling remains of cain’s altar—fine old ruin!” then, no doubt, he taxed them a shekel apiece and let them go.

an illumination of heidelberg castle is one of the sights of europe. the castle’s picturesque shape; its commanding situation, midway up the steep and wooded mountainside; its vast size—these features combine to make an illumination a most effective spectacle. it is necessarily an expensive show, and consequently rather infrequent. therefore whenever one of these exhibitions is to take place, the news goes about in the papers and heidelberg is sure to be full of people on that night. i and my agent had one of these opportunities, and improved it.

about half past seven on the appointed evening we crossed the lower bridge, with some american students, in a pouring rain, and started up the road which borders the neunheim side of the river. this roadway was densely packed with carriages and foot-passengers; the former of all ages, and the latter of all ages and both sexes. this black and solid mass was struggling painfully onward, through the slop, the darkness, and the deluge. we waded along for three-quarters of a mile, and finally took up a position in an unsheltered beer-garden directly opposite the castle. we could not see the castle—or anything else, for that matter—but we could dimly discern the outlines of the mountain over the way, through the pervading blackness, and knew whereabouts the castle was located. we stood on one of the hundred benches in the garden, under our umbrellas; the other ninety-nine were occupied by standing men and women, and they also had umbrellas. all the region round about, and up and down the river-road, was a dense wilderness of humanity hidden under an unbroken pavement of carriage tops and umbrellas. thus we stood during two drenching hours. no rain fell on my head, but the converging whalebone points of a dozen neighboring umbrellas poured little cooling steams of water down my neck, and sometimes into my ears, and thus kept me from getting hot and impatient. i had the rheumatism, too, and had heard that this was good for it. afterward, however, i was led to believe that the water treatment is not good for rheumatism. there were even little girls in that dreadful place. a man held one in his arms, just in front of me, for as much as an hour, with umbrella-drippings soaking into her clothing all the time.

in the circumstances, two hours was a good while for us to have to wait, but when the illumination did at last come, we felt repaid. it came unexpectedly, of course—things always do, that have been long looked and longed for. with a perfectly breath-taking suddenness several mast sheaves of varicolored rockets were vomited skyward out of the black throats of the castle towers, accompanied by a thundering crash of sound, and instantly every detail of the prodigious ruin stood revealed against the mountainside and glowing with an almost intolerable splendor of fire and color. for some little time the whole building was a blinding crimson mass, the towers continued to spout thick columns of rockets aloft, and overhead the sky was radiant with arrowy bolts which clove their way to the zenith, paused, curved gracefully downward, then burst into brilliant fountain-sprays of richly colored sparks. the red fires died slowly down, within the castle, and presently the shell grew nearly black outside; the angry glare that shone out through the broken arches and innumerable sashless windows, now, reproduced the aspect which the castle must have borne in the old time when the french spoilers saw the monster bonfire which they had made there fading and spoiling toward extinction.

while we still gazed and enjoyed, the ruin was suddenly enveloped in rolling and rumbling volumes of vaporous green fire; then in dazzling purple ones; then a mixture of many colors followed, then drowned the great fabric in its blended splendors. meantime the nearest bridge had been illuminated, and from several rafts anchored in the river, meteor showers of rockets, roman candles, bombs, serpents, and catharine wheels were being discharged in wasteful profusion into the sky—a marvelous sight indeed to a person as little used to such spectacles as i was. for a while the whole region about us seemed as bright as day, and yet the rain was falling in torrents all the time. the evening’s entertainment presently closed, and we joined the innumerable caravan of half-drowned strangers, and waded home again.

the castle grounds are very ample and very beautiful; and as they joined the hotel grounds, with no fences to climb, but only some nobly shaded stone stairways to descend, we spent a part of nearly every day in idling through their smooth walks and leafy groves. there was an attractive spot among the trees where were a great many wooden tables and benches; and there one could sit in the shade and pretend to sip at his foamy beaker of beer while he inspected the crowd. i say pretend, because i only pretended to sip, without really sipping. that is the polite way; but when you are ready to go, you empty the beaker at a draught. there was a brass band, and it furnished excellent music every afternoon. sometimes so many people came that every seat was occupied, every table filled. and never a rough in the assemblage—all nicely dressed fathers and mothers, young gentlemen and ladies and children; and plenty of university students and glittering officers; with here and there a gray professor, or a peaceful old lady with her knitting; and always a sprinkling of gawky foreigners. everybody had his glass of beer before him, or his cup of coffee, or his bottle of wine, or his hot cutlet and potatoes; young ladies chatted, or fanned themselves, or wrought at their crocheting or embroidering; the students fed sugar to their dogs, or discussed duels, or illustrated new fencing tricks with their little canes; and everywhere was comfort and enjoyment, and everywhere peace and good-will to men. the trees were jubilant with birds, and the paths with rollicking children. one could have a seat in that place and plenty of music, any afternoon, for about eight cents, or a family ticket for the season for two dollars.

for a change, when you wanted one, you could stroll to the castle, and burrow among its dungeons, or climb about its ruined towers, or visit its interior shows—the great heidelberg tun, for instance. everybody has heard of the great heidelberg tun, and most people have seen it, no doubt. it is a wine-cask as big as a cottage, and some traditions say it holds eighteen thousand bottles, and other traditions say it holds eighteen hundred million barrels. i think it likely that one of these statements is a mistake, and the other is a lie. however, the mere matter of capacity is a thing of no sort of consequence, since the cask is empty, and indeed has always been empty, history says. an empty cask the size of a cathedral could excite but little emotion in me.

i do not see any wisdom in building a monster cask to hoard up emptiness in, when you can get a better quality, outside, any day, free of expense. what could this cask have been built for? the more one studies over that, the more uncertain and unhappy he becomes. some historians say that thirty couples, some say thirty thousand couples, can dance on the head of this cask at the same time. even this does not seem to me to account for the building of it. it does not even throw light on it. a profound and scholarly englishman—a specialist—who had made the great heidelberg tun his sole study for fifteen years, told me he had at last satisfied himself that the ancients built it to make german cream in. he said that the average german cow yielded from one to two and half teaspoons of milk, when she was not worked in the plow or the hay-wagon more than eighteen or nineteen hours a day. this milk was very sweet and good, and a beautiful transparent bluish tint; but in order to get cream from it in the most economical way, a peculiar process was necessary. now he believed that the habit of the ancients was to collect several milkings in a teacup, pour it into the great tun, fill up with water, and then skim off the cream from time to time as the needs of the german empire demanded.

this began to look reasonable. it certainly began to account for the german cream which i had encountered and marveled over in so many hotels and restaurants. but a thought struck me—

“why did not each ancient dairyman take his own teacup of milk and his own cask of water, and mix them, without making a government matter of it?’

“where could he get a cask large enough to contain the right proportion of water?”

very true. it was plain that the englishman had studied the matter from all sides. still i thought i might catch him on one point; so i asked him why the modern empire did not make the nation’s cream in the heidelberg tun, instead of leaving it to rot away unused. but he answered as one prepared—

“a patient and diligent examination of the modern german cream had satisfied me that they do not use the great tun now, because they have got a bigger one hid away somewhere. either that is the case or they empty the spring milkings into the mountain torrents and then skim the rhine all summer.”

there is a museum of antiquities in the castle, and among its most treasured relics are ancient manuscripts connected with german history. there are hundreds of these, and their dates stretch back through many centuries. one of them is a decree signed and sealed by the hand of a successor of charlemagne, in the year 896. a signature made by a hand which vanished out of this life near a thousand years ago, is a more impressive thing than even a ruined castle. luther’s wedding-ring was shown me; also a fork belonging to a time anterior to our era, and an early bootjack. and there was a plaster cast of the head of a man who was assassinated about sixty years ago. the stab-wounds in the face were duplicated with unpleasant fidelity. one or two real hairs still remained sticking in the eyebrows of the cast. that trifle seemed to almost change the counterfeit into a corpse.

there are many aged portraits—some valuable, some worthless; some of great interest, some of none at all. i bought a couple—one a gorgeous duke of the olden time, and the other a comely blue-eyed damsel, a princess, maybe. i bought them to start a portrait-gallery of my ancestors with. i paid a dollar and a half for the duke and a half for the princess. one can lay in ancestors at even cheaper rates than these, in europe, if he will mouse among old picture shops and look out for chances.