about seven o’clock one blistering hot morning—for it was now dead summer time—higbie and i took the boat and started on a voyage of discovery to the two islands. we had often longed to do this, but had been deterred by the fear of storms; for they were frequent, and severe enough to capsize an ordinary row-boat like ours without great difficulty—and once capsized, death would ensue in spite of the bravest swimming, for that venomous water would eat a man’s eyes out like fire, and burn him out inside, too, if he shipped a sea. it was called twelve miles, straight out to the islands—a long pull and a warm one—but the morning was so quiet and sunny, and the lake so smooth and glassy and dead, that we could not resist the temptation. so we filled two large tin canteens with water (since we were not acquainted with the locality of the spring said to exist on the large island), and started. higbie’s brawny muscles gave the boat good speed, but by the time we reached our destination we judged that we had pulled nearer fifteen miles than twelve.

we landed on the big island and went ashore. we tried the water in the canteens, now, and found that the sun had spoiled it; it was so brackish that we could not drink it; so we poured it out and began a search for the spring—for thirst augments fast as soon as it is apparent that one has no means at hand of quenching it. the island was a long, moderately high hill of ashes—nothing but gray ashes and pumice-stone, in which we sunk to our knees at every step—and all around the top was a forbidding wall of scorched and blasted rocks. when we reached the top and got within the wall, we found simply a shallow, far-reaching basin, carpeted with ashes, and here and there a patch of fine sand. in places, picturesque jets of steam shot up out of crevices, giving evidence that although this ancient crater had gone out of active business, there was still some fire left in its furnaces. close to one of these jets of steam stood the only tree on the island—a small pine of most graceful shape and most faultless symmetry; its color was a brilliant green, for the steam drifted unceasingly through its branches and kept them always moist. it contrasted strangely enough, did this vigorous and beautiful outcast, with its dead and dismal surroundings. it was like a cheerful spirit in a mourning household.

we hunted for the spring everywhere, traversing the full length of the island (two or three miles), and crossing it twice—climbing ash-hills patiently, and then sliding down the other side in a sitting posture, plowing up smothering volumes of gray dust. but we found nothing but solitude, ashes and a heart-breaking silence. finally we noticed that the wind had risen, and we forgot our thirst in a solicitude of greater importance; for, the lake being quiet, we had not taken pains about securing the boat. we hurried back to a point overlooking our landing place, and then—but mere words cannot describe our dismay—the boat was gone! the chances were that there was not another boat on the entire lake. the situation was not comfortable—in truth, to speak plainly, it was frightful. we were prisoners on a desolate island, in aggravating proximity to friends who were for the present helpless to aid us; and what was still more uncomfortable was the reflection that we had neither food nor water. but presently we sighted the boat. it was drifting along, leisurely, about fifty yards from shore, tossing in a foamy sea. it drifted, and continued to drift, but at the same safe distance from land, and we walked along abreast it and waited for fortune to favor us. at the end of an hour it approached a jutting cape, and higbie ran ahead and posted himself on the utmost verge and prepared for the assault. if we failed there, there was no hope for us. it was driving gradually shoreward all the time, now; but whether it was driving fast enough to make the connection or not was the momentous question. when it got within thirty steps of higbie i was so excited that i fancied i could hear my own heart beat. when, a little later, it dragged slowly along and seemed about to go by, only one little yard out of reach, it seemed as if my heart stood still; and when it was exactly abreast him and began to widen away, and he still standing like a watching statue, i knew my heart did stop. but when he gave a great spring, the next instant, and lit fairly in the stern, i discharged a war-whoop that woke the solitudes!

but it dulled my enthusiasm, presently, when he told me he had not been caring whether the boat came within jumping distance or not, so that it passed within eight or ten yards of him, for he had made up his mind to shut his eyes and mouth and swim that trifling distance. imbecile that i was, i had not thought of that. it was only a long swim that could be fatal.

the sea was running high and the storm increasing. it was growing late, too—three or four in the afternoon. whether to venture toward the mainland or not, was a question of some moment. but we were so distressed by thirst that we decide to try it, and so higbie fell to work and i took the steering-oar. when we had pulled a mile, laboriously, we were evidently in serious peril, for the storm had greatly augmented; the billows ran very high and were capped with foaming crests, the heavens were hung with black, and the wind blew with great fury. we would have gone back, now, but we did not dare to turn the boat around, because as soon as she got in the trough of the sea she would upset, of course. our only hope lay in keeping her head-on to the seas. it was hard work to do this, she plunged so, and so beat and belabored the billows with her rising and falling bows. now and then one of higbie’s oars would trip on the top of a wave, and the other one would snatch the boat half around in spite of my cumbersome steering apparatus. we were drenched by the sprays constantly, and the boat occasionally shipped water. by and by, powerful as my comrade was, his great exertions began to tell on him, and he was anxious that i should change places with him till he could rest a little. but i told him this was impossible; for if the steering oar were dropped a moment while we changed, the boat would slue around into the trough of the sea, capsize, and in less than five minutes we would have a hundred gallons of soap- suds in us and be eaten up so quickly that we could not even be present at our own inquest.

but things cannot last always. just as the darkness shut down we came booming into port, head on. higbie dropped his oars to hurrah—i dropped mine to help—the sea gave the boat a twist, and over she went!

the agony that alkali water inflicts on bruises, chafes and blistered hands, is unspeakable, and nothing but greasing all over will modify it—but we ate, drank and slept well, that night, notwithstanding.

in speaking of the peculiarities of mono lake, i ought to have mentioned that at intervals all around its shores stand picturesque turret-looking masses and clusters of a whitish, coarse-grained rock that resembles inferior mortar dried hard; and if one breaks off fragments of this rock he will find perfectly shaped and thoroughly petrified gulls’ eggs deeply imbedded in the mass. how did they get there? i simply state the fact—for it is a fact—and leave the geological reader to crack the nut at his leisure and solve the problem after his own fashion.

at the end of a week we adjourned to the sierras on a fishing excursion, and spent several days in camp under snowy castle peak, and fished successfully for trout in a bright, miniature lake whose surface was between ten and eleven thousand feet above the level of the sea; cooling ourselves during the hot august noons by sitting on snow banks ten feet deep, under whose sheltering edges fine grass and dainty flowers flourished luxuriously; and at night entertaining ourselves by almost freezing to death. then we returned to mono lake, and finding that the cement excitement was over for the present, packed up and went back to esmeralda. mr. ballou reconnoitred awhile, and not liking the prospect, set out alone for humboldt.

about this time occurred a little incident which has always had a sort of interest to me, from the fact that it came so near “instigating” my funeral. at a time when an indian attack had been expected, the citizens hid their gunpowder where it would be safe and yet convenient to hand when wanted. a neighbor of ours hid six cans of rifle powder in the bake-oven of an old discarded cooking stove which stood on the open ground near a frame out-house or shed, and from and after that day never thought of it again. we hired a half-tamed indian to do some washing for us, and he took up quarters under the shed with his tub. the ancient stove reposed within six feet of him, and before his face. finally it occurred to him that hot water would be better than cold, and he went out and fired up under that forgotten powder magazine and set on a kettle of water. then he returned to his tub.

i entered the shed presently and threw down some more clothes, and was about to speak to him when the stove blew up with a prodigious crash, and disappeared, leaving not a splinter behind. fragments of it fell in the streets full two hundred yards away. nearly a third of the shed roof over our heads was destroyed, and one of the stove lids, after cutting a small stanchion half in two in front of the indian, whizzed between us and drove partly through the weather-boarding beyond. i was as white as a sheet and as weak as a kitten and speechless. but the indian betrayed no trepidation, no distress, not even discomfort. he simply stopped washing, leaned forward and surveyed the clean, blank ground a moment, and then remarked:

“mph! dam stove heap gone!”—and resumed his scrubbing as placidly as if it were an entirely customary thing for a stove to do. i will explain, that “heap” is “injun-english” for “very much.” the reader will perceive the exhaustive expressiveness of it in the present instance.