voyage from york factory to red river—voyage begun—our manner of travelling—encamping in the woods—portaging and shooting wildfowl—whisky-jacks—a storm—lake winnipeg—arrival at red river settlement.
somewhere about the beginning of september, mr carles, mr and mrs gowley, mr rob, and myself set out with the portage la loche brigade, for the distant colony of red river. the portage la loche brigade usually numbers six or seven boats, adapted for inland travelling where the navigation is obstructed by rapids, waterfalls, and cataracts, to surmount which, boats and cargo are carried overland by the crews. these carrying places are called portages; and between york factory and red river there are upwards of thirty-six, of various lengths. besides these, there are innumerable rapids, up which the boats have to be pushed inch by inch with poles, for miles together; so that we had to look forward to a long and tedious voyage.
the brigade with which we left york factory usually leaves red river about the end of may, and proceeds to norway house, where it receives athabasca and mackenzie river outfits. it then sets out for the interior; and upon arriving at portage la loche, the different boats land their cargoes, while the mackenzie river boats, which came to meet them, exchange their furs for the outfits. the brigade then begins to retrace its way, and returns to norway house, whence it proceeds to york factory, where it arrives about the commencement of september, lands the furs, and receives part of the red river outfit, with which it sets out for that place as soon as possible.
with this brigade, then, we started from york factory, with a cheering song from the men in full chorus. they were in good spirits, being about to finish the long voyage, and return to their families at red river, after an absence of nearly five months, during which time they had encountered and overcome difficulties that would have cooled the most sanguine temperament; but these hardy canadians and half-breeds are accustomed to such voyages from the age of fifteen or sixteen, and think no more of them than other men do of ordinary work.
mr carles and i travelled together in the guide’s boat; mr and mrs gowley in another; and mr rob in a third by himself. we took the lead, and the others followed as they best could. such was the order of march in which we commenced the ascent of hayes river.
it may not be uninteresting here to describe the matériel of our voyage.
our boat, which was the counterpart of the rest, was long, broad, and shallow, capable of carrying forty hundredweight, and nine men, besides three or four passengers, with provisions for themselves and the crew. it did not, i suppose, draw more than three feet of water when loaded, perhaps less, and was, moreover, very light for its size. the cargo consisted of bales, being the goods intended for the red river sale-room and trading-shop. a rude mast and tattered sail lay along the seats, ready for use, should a favourable breeze spring up; but this seldom occurred, the oars being our chief dependence during the greater part of the voyage.
the provisions of the men consisted of pemmican and flour; while the passengers revelled in the enjoyment of a ham, several cured buffalo-tongues, tea, sugar, butter, and biscuit, and a little brandy and wine, wherewith to warm us in cold weather, and to cheer the crew with a dram after a day of unusual exertion. all our provisions were snugly packed in a case and basket, made expressly for the purpose.
pemmican being a kind of food with which people in the civilised world are not generally acquainted, i may as well describe it here.
it is made by the buffalo-hunters of the red river, swan river, and saskatchewan prairies; more particularly by those of red river, where many of the colonists spend a great part of the year in pursuit of the buffalo. they make it thus: having shot a buffalo (or bison), they cut off lumps of his flesh, and slitting it up into flakes or layers, hang it up in the sun to dry. in this state it is often made up into packs, and sent about the country to be consumed as dried meat; but when pemmican is wanted, it has to go through another process. when dry, the meat is pounded between two stones till it is broken into small pieces; these are put into a bag made of the animal’s hide, with the hair on the outside, and well mixed with melted grease; the top of the bag is then sewn up, and the pemmican allowed to cool. in this state it may be eaten uncooked; but the voyageurs, who subsist on it when travelling, mix it with a little flour and water, and then boil it; in which state it is known throughout the country by the elegant name of robbiboo. pemmican is good wholesome food, will keep fresh for a great length of time, and were it not for its unprepossessing appearance, and a good many buffalo hairs mixed with it, through the carelessness of the hunters, would be very palatable. after a time, however, one becomes accustomed to those little peculiarities.
it was late in the afternoon when we left york factory; and after travelling a few miles up hayes river, put ashore for the night.
we encamped upon a rough, gravelly piece of ground, as there was no better in the neighbourhood; so that my first night in the woods did not hold out the prospect of being a very agreeable one. the huge log fires, however, soon blazed cheerily up, casting a ruddy glow upon the surrounding foliage and the wild uncouth figures of the voyageurs, who, with their long dark hair hanging in luxuriant masses over their bronzed faces, sat or reclined round the fires, smoking their pipes, and chatting with as much carelessness and good-humour as if the long and arduous journey before them never once entered their minds. the tents were pitched on the most convenient spot we could find; and when supper was spread out, and a candle lighted (which, by the way, the strong blaze of our camp-fire rendered quite unnecessary), and mr carles, seating himself upon a pile of cloaks, blankets, and cushions, looked up with a broad grin on his cheerful, good-humoured countenance, and called me to supper, i began to think that if all travelling in hudson bay were like this, a voyage of discovery to the north pole would be a mere pleasure trip! alas! in after-years i found it was not always thus.
supper was soon disposed of, and having warmed ourselves at the fire, and ventured a few rash prophecies on the probable weather of the morrow, we spread our blankets over an oiled cloth, and lay lovingly down together; mr carles to snore vociferously, and i to dream of home.
at the first blush of day i was awakened by the loud halloo of the guide, who, with a voice of a stentor, gave vent to a “lève! lève! lève!” that roused the whole camp in less than two minutes. five minutes more sufficed to finish our toilet (for, be it known, mr carles and i had only taken off our coats), tie up our blankets, and embark. in ten minutes we were once more pulling slowly up the current of hayes river.
the missionaries turned out to be capital travellers, and never delayed the boats a moment; which is saying a good deal for them, considering the short space of time allowed for dressing. as for the hardy voyageurs, they slept in the same clothes in which they had wrought during the day, each with a single blanket round him, in the most convenient spot he could find. a few slept in pairs, but all reposed under the wide canopy of heaven.
early morning is always the most disagreeable part of the traveller’s day. the cold dews of the past night render the air chilly, and the gloom of departing night tends greatly to depress the spirits. as i became acquainted with this mode of travelling, i became more knowing; and, when there was not much probability of being interrupted by portages, i used to spread out my blanket in the stern of the boat, and snooze till breakfast-time. the hour for breakfast used to vary, according as we arrived late or early at an eligible spot. it was seldom earlier than seven, or later than nine o’clock.
upon the occasion of our first breakfast in the woods, we were fortunate. the sun shone brightly on the surrounding trees and bushes; the fires blazed and crackled; pots boiled, and cooks worked busily on a green spot, at the side of a small bay or creek, in which the boats quietly floated, scarce rippling the surface of the limpid water. a little apart from the men, two white napkins marked our breakfast-place, and the busy appearance of our cook gave hopes that our fast was nearly over. the whole scene was indescribably romantic and picturesque, and worthy of delineation by a more experienced pencil than mine. breakfast was a repetition of the supper of the preceding night; the only difference being, that we ate it by daylight, in the open air, instead of by candlelight, under the folds of our canvas tent. after it was over, we again embarked, and proceeded on our way.
the men used to row for a space of time denominated a pipe; so called from the circumstance of their taking a smoke at the end of it. each spell lasted for nearly two hours, during which time they rowed without intermission. the smoke usually occupied five or ten minutes, after which they pulled again for two hours more; and so on. while travelling in boats, it is only allowable to put ashore for breakfast; so, about noon, we had a cold dinner in the boat: and, with appetites sharpened by exposure to the fresh air, we enjoyed it pretty well.
in a couple of days we branched off into steel river, and began its ascent. the current here was more rapid than in hayes river; so rapid, indeed, that, our oars being useless, we were obliged to send the men ashore with the tracking-line. tracking, as it is called, is dreadfully harassing work. half of the crew go ashore, and drag the boat slowly along, while the other half go to sleep. after an hour’s walk, the others then take their turn; and so on, alternately, during the whole day.
the banks of the river were high, and very precipitous; so that the poor fellows had to scramble along, sometimes close to the water’s edge, and sometimes high up the bank, on ledges so narrow that they could scarcely find a footing, and where they looked like flies on a wall. the banks, too, being composed of clay or mud, were very soft, rendering the work disagreeable and tiresome; but the light-hearted voyageurs seemed to be quite in their element, and laughed and joked while they toiled along, playing tricks with each other, and plunging occasionally up to the middle in mud, or to the neck in water, with as much nonchalance as if they were jumping into bed.
on the fifth day after leaving york factory, we arrived at the rock portage. this is the first on the route, and it is a very short one. a perpendicular waterfall, eight or ten feet high, forms an effectual barrier to the upward progress of the boats by water; so that the only way to overcome the difficulty is to carry everything across the flat rock, from which the portage derives its name, and reload at the upper end.
upon arriving, a novel and animating scene took place. some of the men, jumping ashore, ran briskly to and fro with enormous burdens on their backs; whilst others hauled and pulled the heavy boats slowly up the cataract, hallooing and shouting all the time, as if they wished to drown the thundering noise of the water, which boiled and hissed furiously around the rocks on which we stood. in about an hour our boat, and one or two others, had passed the falls; and we proceeded merrily on our way, with spirits elevated in proportion to the elevation of our bodies.
it was here that i killed my first duck; and well do i remember the feeling of pride with which i contemplated the achievement. that i had shot her sitting about five yards from the muzzle of my gun, which was loaded with an enormous charge of shot, is undeniable; but this did not lessen my exultation a whit. the sparrows i used to kill in days of yore, with inexpressible delight, grew “small by degrees” and comically less before the plump inhabitant of the marshes, till they dwindled into nothing; and the joy and fuss with which i hailed the destruction of the unfortunate bird can only be compared to, and equalled by, the crowing and flurry with which a hen is accustomed to announce the production of her first egg.
during the voyage, we often disturbed large flocks of geese, and sometimes shot a few. when we chanced to come within sight of them before they saw us, the boats all put ashore; and l’esperance, our guide, went round through the bushes, to the place where they were, and seldom failed in rendering at least one of the flock hors de combat. at first i would as soon have volunteered to shoot a lion in africa, with a bushman beside me, as have presumed to attempt to kill geese while l’esperance was present—so poor an opinion had i of my skill as a marksman; but, as i became more accustomed to seeing them killed, i waxed bolder; and at last, one day, having come in sight of a flock, i begged to be allowed to try my hand. the request was granted; l’esperance lent me his gun, and away i went cautiously through the bushes. after a short walk, i came close to where they were swimming about in the water; and cocking my gun, i rushed furiously down the bank, breaking everything before me, and tumbling over half a dozen fallen trees in my haste, till i cleared the bushes; and then, scarcely taking time to raise the gun to my shoulder, banged right into the middle of the flock, just as they were taking wing. all rose; but they had not gone far when one began to waver a little, and finally sat down in the water again—a sure sign of being badly wounded. before the boats came up, however, he had swam to the opposite bank, and hid himself among the bushes; so that, much to my disappointment, i had not the pleasure of handling this new trophy of my prowess.
upon one occasion, while sauntering along the banks of the river in search of ducks and geese, while the boats were slowly ascending against the strong current, i happened to cast my eyes across the stream, and there, to my amazement, beheld a large black bear bounding over the rocks with the ease and agility of a cat. he was not within shot, however, and i was obliged to content myself with seeing him run before me for a quarter of a mile, and then turn off into the forest.
this was truly the happiest time i ever spent in the nor’-west. everything was full of novelty and excitement. rapid succeeded rapid, and portage followed portage in endless succession—giving me abundance of opportunities to range about in search of ducks and geese, which were very numerous, while the men were dragging the boats, and carrying the goods over the portages. the weather was beautiful, and it was just the season of the year when the slight frost in the mornings and evenings renders the blazing camp-fire agreeable, and destroys those little wretches, the mosquitoes. my friend mr carles was a kind and indulgent companion, bearing good-naturedly with my boyish pranks, and cautioning me, of course ineffectually, against running into danger. i had just left home and the restraint of school, and was now entering upon a wild and romantic career. in short, every thing combined to render this a most agreeable and interesting voyage. i have spent many a day of amusement and excitement in the country, but on none can i look back with so much pleasure as on the time spent in this journey to red river.
the scenery through which we passed was pretty and romantic, but there was nothing grand about it. the country generally was low and swampy; the highest ground being the banks of the river, which sometimes rose to from sixty to seventy feet. our progress in hill river was slow and tedious, owing to the number of rapids encountered on the way. the hill from which the river derives its name is a small, insignificant mound, and owes its importance to the flatness of the surrounding country.
besides the larger wild-fowl, small birds of many kinds were very numerous. the most curious, and at the same time the most impudent, among the latter were the whisky-jacks. they always hovered round us at breakfast, ready to snap up anything that came within their reach—advancing sometimes to within a yard or two of our feet, and looking at us with a very comical expression of countenance. one of the men told me that he had often caught them in his hand, with a piece of pemmican for a bait; so one morning after breakfast i went a little to one side of our camp, and covering my face with leaves, extended my hand with a few crumbs in the open palm. in five minutes a whisky-jack jumped upon a branch over my head, and after reconnoitring a minute or so, lit upon my hand, and began to breakfast forthwith. you may be sure the trap was not long in going off; and the screeching that mr jack set up on finding my fingers firmly closed upon his toes was tremendous. i never saw a more passionate little creature in my life: it screamed, struggled, and bit unceasingly, until i let it go; and even then it lighted on a tree close by, and looked at me as impudently as ever. the same day i observed that when the men were ashore the whisky-jacks used to eat out of the pemmican bags left in the boats; so i lay down close to one, under cover of a buffalo-skin, and in three minutes had made prisoner of another of these little inhabitants of the forest. they are of a bluish-grey colour, and nearly the size of a blackbird; but they are such a bundle of feathers that when plucked they do not look much larger than a sparrow. they live apparently on animal food (at least, they are very fond of it), and are not considered very agreeable eating.
we advanced very slowly up hill river. sometimes, after a day of the most toilsome exertions, during which the men were constantly pushing the boats up long rapids, with poles, at a very slow pace, we found ourselves only four or five miles ahead of the last night’s encampment. as we ascended higher up the country, however, travelling became more easy. sometimes small lakes and tranquil rivers allowed us to use the oars—and even the sails, when a puff of fair wind arose. occasionally we were sweeping rapidly across the placid water; anon buffeting with, and advancing against, the foaming current of a powerful river, whose raging torrent seemed to bid defiance to our further progress: now dragging boats and cargoes over rocks, and through the deep shades of the forest, when a waterfall checked us on our way; and again dashing across a lake with favouring breeze; and sometimes, though rarely, were wind-bound on a small islet or point of land.
our progress was slow, but full of interest, novelty, and amusement. my fellow-travellers seemed to enjoy the voyage very much; and even mrs gowley, to whom hardships were new, liked it exceedingly.
on our way we passed oxford house—a small outpost of york factory district. it is built on the brow of a grassy hill, which rises gradually from the margin of oxford lake. like most of the posts in the country, it is composed of a collection of wooden houses, built in the form of a square, and surrounded by tall stockades, pointed at the tops. these, however, are more for ornament than defence. a small flag-staff towers above the buildings; from which, upon the occasion of an arrival, a little red hudson bay company’s flag waves its folds in the gentle current of an evening breeze. there were only two or three men at the place; and not a human being, save one or two wandering indians, was to be found within hundreds of miles of this desolate spot. after a stay here of about half an hour, we proceeded on our way.
few things are more beautiful or delightful than crossing a lake in the woods on a lovely morning at sunrise. the brilliant sun, rising in a flood of light, pierces through the thin haze of morning, converting the countless myriads of dewdrops that hang on tree and bush into sparkling diamonds, and burnishing the motionless flood of water, till a new and mighty firmament is reflected in the wave; as if nature, rising early from her couch, paused to gaze with admiration on her resplendent image reflected in the depths of her own matchless mirror. the profound stillness, too, broken only by the measured sweep of the oars, fills the soul with awe; whilst a tranquil but unbounded happiness steals over the heart of the traveller as he gazes out upon the distant horizon, broken here and there by small verdant islets, floating as it were in air. he wanders back in thought to far-distant climes; or wishes, mayhap, that it were possible to dwell in scenes like this with those he loves for ever.
as the day advances, the scene, though slightly changed, is still most beautiful. the increasing heat, dispelling the mists, reveals in all its beauty the deep blue sky speckled with thin fleecy clouds, and, imparting a genial warmth to the body, creates a sympathetic glow in the soul. flocks of snow-white gulls sail in graceful evolutions round the boats, dipping lightly in the water as if to kiss their reflected images; and, rising suddenly in long rapid flights, mount in circles up high above the tranquil world into the azure sky, till small white specks alone are visible in the distance. up, up they rise on sportive wing, till the straining eye can no longer distinguish them, and they are gone! ducks, too, whir past in rapid flight, steering wide of the boats, and again bending in long graceful curves into their course. the sweet, plaintive cry of the whip-poor-will rings along the shore; and the faint answer of his mate floats over the lake, mellowed by distance to a long tiny note. the air is motionless as the water; and the enraptured eye gazes in dreamy enjoyment on all that is lovely and peaceful in nature.
these are the pleasures of travelling in the wilderness. let us change the picture.
the sun no longer shines upon the tranquil scene. dark, heavy clouds obscure the sky; a suffocating heat depresses the spirits and enervates the frame; sharp, short gusts of wind now ruffle the inky waters, and the floating islands sink into insignificance as the deceptive haze which elevated them flies before the approaching storm. the ducks are gone, and the plaintive notes of the whip-poor-will are hushed as the increasing breeze rustles the leafy drapery of the forest. the gulls wheel round still, but in more rapid and uncertain flight, accompanying their motions with shrill and mournful cries, like the dismal wailings of the spirit of the storm. a few drops of rain patter on the boats, or plump like stones into the water, and the distant melancholy growl of thunder swells upon the coming gale. uneasy glances are cast, ever and anon, towards clouds and shore, and grumbling sentences are uttered by the men. suddenly a hissing sound is heard, a loud clap of thunder growls overhead, and the gale, dashing the white spray wildly before it, rushes down upon the boats.
“a terre! à terre!” shout the men. the boats are turned towards the shore, and the bending oars creak and groan as they pull swiftly on. hiss! whir! the gale bursts forth, dashing clouds of spray into the air, twisting and curling the foaming water in its fury. the thunder crashes with fearful noise, and the lightning gleams in fitful lurid streaks across the inky sky. presently the shore is gained, amid a deluge of rain which saturates everything with water in a few minutes. the tents are pitched, but the fires will scarcely burn, and are at last allowed to go out. the men seek shelter under the oiled cloths of the boats; while the travellers, rolled up in damp blankets, with the rain oozing through the tents upon their couches, gaze mournfully upon the dismal scene, and ponder sadly on the shortness of the step between happiness and misery.
nearly eighteen days after we left york factory we arrived in safety at the dep?t of norway house. this fort is built at the mouth of a small and sluggish stream, known by the name of jack river. the houses are ranged in the form of a square; none of them exceed one story in height, and most of them are whitewashed. the ground on which it stands is rocky; and a small garden, composed chiefly of sand, juts out from the stockades like a strange excrescence. a large, rugged mass of rocks rises up between the fort and playgreen lake, which stretches out to the horizon on the other side of them. on the top of these rocks stands a flagstaff, as a beacon to guide the traveller; for norway house is so ingeniously hid in a hollow that it cannot be seen from the lake till the boat almost touches the wharf. on the left side of the building extends a flat grassy park or green, upon which during the summer months there is often a picturesque and interesting scene. spread out to dry in the sun may be seen the snowy tent of the chief factor, lately arrived. a little further off, on the rising ground, stands a dark and almost imperceptible wigwam, the small wreath of white smoke issuing from the top proving that it is inhabited. on the river bank three or four boats and a north canoe are hauled up; and just above them a number of sunburned voyageurs and a few indians amuse themselves with various games, or recline upon the grass, basking in the sunshine. behind the fort stretches the thick forest, its outline broken here and there by cuttings of firewood or small clearings for farming.
such was norway house in 1841. the rocks were crowded when we arrived, and we received a hearty welcome from mr russ—the chief factor in charge—and his amiable family. as it was too late to proceed any further that day, we determined to remain here all night.
from the rocks before mentioned, on which the flagstaff stands, we had a fine view of playgreen lake. there was nothing striking or bold in the scene, the country being low and swampy, and no hills rose on the horizon or cast their shadows on the lake; but it was pleasing and tranquil, and enlivened by one or two boats sailing about on the water.
we spent an agreeable evening; and early on the following morning started again on our journey, having received an agreeable addition to our party in the person of miss jessie russ, second daughter of mr russ, from whom we had just parted.
on the evening of the first day after our departure from norway house, we encamped on the shores of lake winnipeg. this immense body of fresh water is about three hundred miles long by about fifty broad. the shores are generally flat and uninteresting, and the water shallow; yet here and there a few pretty spots may be seen at the head of a small bay or inlet, where the ground is a little more elevated and fertile.
nothing particular occurred during our voyage along the shores of the lake, except that we hoisted our sails oftener to a favourable breeze, and had a good deal more night travelling than heretofore. in about five days after leaving norway house we arrived at the mouth of red river; and a very swampy, sedgy, flat-looking mouth it was, covered with tall bulrushes and swarming with water-fowl. the banks, too, were low and swampy; but as we ascended they gradually became more woody and elevated, till we arrived at the stone fort—twenty miles up the river—where they were tolerably high.
a few miles below this we passed an indian settlement, the cultivated fields and white houses of which, with the church spire in the midst, quite refreshed our eyes, after being so long accustomed to the shades of the primeval forest.
the stone fort is a substantial fortification, surrounded by high walls and flanked with bastions, and has a fine appearance from the river.
here my friend and fellow-traveller, mr carles, hearing of his wife’s illness, left us, and proceeded up the settlement on horseback. the missionaries also disembarked, and i was left alone, to be rowed slowly to fort garry, nearly twenty miles further up the river.
the river banks were lined all the way along with the houses and farms of the colonists, which had a thriving, cleanly appearance; and from the quantity of live stock in the farmyards, the number of pigs along the banks, and the healthy appearance of the children who ran out of the cottages to gaze upon us as we passed, i inferred that the settlers generally were well-to-do in the world. the houses of some of the more wealthy inhabitants were very handsome-looking buildings, particularly that of mr mcallum, where in a few hours i landed. this gentleman was the superintendent of the red river academy, where the children of the wealthier colonists and those of the gentlemen belonging to the hudson bay company are instructed in the various branches of english literature, and made to comprehend how the world was convulsed in days of yore by the mighty deeds of the heroes of ancient greece and rome.
here i was hospitably treated to an excellent breakfast, and then proceeded on foot with mr carles—who rejoined me here—to fort garry, which lay about two miles distant. upon arriving i was introduced to mr finlayson, the chief factor in charge, who received me very kindly, and introduced me to my fellow-clerks in the office. thus terminated my first inland journey.