turk and bulgarian—a wrestling match and a dispute.

river navigation is, to my mind, most captivating; but space forbids that i should enlarge on it, and on many other points of interest in this eventful voyage. i shall therefore pass over the dardanelles and the bosporus, leaving the great and classic stamboul itself behind untouched, and transport the reader at once to one of those “touches of nature” which “make the whole world kin.”

it is a little village on the danube river—the mighty danube, which bears the fleets of the world on its ample breast.

we had been a considerable time in the river, for we took things very leisurely, before reaching the village to which i refer. it was named yenilik. while i had been rejoicing in the varied scenery—the lagoons and marshes of the several mouths of the great river, and the bolder prospects of hill and dale higher up—i had not been idling my time or making entire holiday of it, for i had devoted myself to the study of the turkish language.

my powers as a linguist may not perhaps be above the average, nevertheless i confess to a considerable facility in the acquisition of languages. russian i already knew very well, having, as before intimated, spent a considerable time in st. petersburg.

desiring to perfect myself in turkish, i undertook to teach my man lancey. not that i had much opinion of his ability—far from it; but i entertain a strong belief in the scriptural idea that two are better than one. of course i do not hold that two fools are better than one wise man; but two men of average ability are, in nearly all circumstances, better than one, especially if one of them is decidedly and admittedly superior to the other. lancey’s powers were limited, but his ambition was not so, and i am bound to add that his application was beyond all praise. of course his attainments, like his powers, were not great. his chief difficulty lay in his tendency to drop the letter h from its rightful position in words, and to insert it, along with r and k, in wrong places. but my efforts to impress lancey’s mind had the satisfactory effect of imbedding minute points of the language deeply in my own memory.

the village to which i have referred was in bulgaria—on the right or southern shore of the danube. it was a pretty spot, and the bright sunny weather lent additional charms to water, rock, and tree, while the twittering of birds, to say nothing of the laughter and song of men, women, and children working in the fields, or engaged in boisterous play, added life to it.

towards the afternoon i landed, and, accompanied by lancey, went up to the chief store or shop of the village. it was a primitive store, in which the most varied and incongruous articles were associated.

the owner of the shop was engaged in bargaining with, i think, one of the finest specimens of manhood i ever saw. his name i accidentally learned on entering, for the shopman, at that moment, said—

“no, dobri petroff, i cannot let you have it for less.”

the shopman spoke in the bulgarian tongue, which, being a kindred dialect of the russian language, i understood easily.

“too dear,” said petroff, as he turned over the article, a piece of calico, with a good-humoured affectation of contempt.

dobri petroff was a young man, apparently not more than twenty-five, tall, broad, deep-chested, small-waisted—a perfect study for an apollo. both dress and language betokened him an uneducated man of the bulgarian peasantry, and his colour seemed to indicate something of gipsy origin; but there was an easy frank deportment about him, and a pleasant smile on his masculine countenance, which told of a naturally free, if not free-and-easy, spirit. although born in a land where tyranny prevailed, where noble spirits were crushed, independence destroyed, and the people generally debased, there was an occasional glance in the black eye of dobri petroff which told of superior intelligence, a certain air of natural refinement, and a strong power of will.

“no, dobri, no; not a rouble less,” repeated the shopman.

petroff smiled, and shook back his black curly hair, as a lion might in sporting with an obstinate cub.

at that moment a turk entered. his position in society i could not at the time guess, but he had the overbearing manner of one who might have been raised by favour from a low to a high station. he pushed petroff rudely out of his way, and claimed the entire attention of the shopman, which was at once and humbly accorded.

a fine expression of fierce contempt flashed across petroff’s countenance; but to my surprise, he at once drew aside.

when the turk was served and had gone out, the shopman turned to me.

“after petroff,” i said, bowing towards the man.

the surprise and pleasure of petroff was evidently great, but he refused to take advantage of my courtesy, and seemed so overwhelmed with modest confusion at my persisting that he should be served before me, that he ultimately left the shop, much to my regret, without making his purchase.

to my inquiries, the shopman replied that dobri was the blacksmith of the place, and one of its best and steadiest workmen.

after completing my purchases i left, and strolled through the village towards its further extremity.

“the turks seem to ’ave it all their own way ere, sir,” said lancey, as we walked along.

“if the treatment we have seen that man receive were the worst of it,” i replied, “the bulgarians would not have very much to complain of, though insolence by superiors to inferiors is bad enough. they have, however, more than that to bear, lancey; the story of bulgarian wrongs is a long and a very sad one.”

as we strolled beyond the village, and were engaged in earnest converse on this subject, we suddenly came on a group of holiday-makers. a number of the peasantry were assembled in a field, engaged in dances, games, and athletic sports. we mingled with the crowd and looked on. they were engaged at the time in a wrestling match. little notice was taken of our appearing, so intent were they on the proceedings. two strong men were engaged in what i may call a tremendous hug. each was stripped to the waist. their muscles stood out like those of hercules, as they strained and tugged. at last they went down, one being undermost, with both shoulder-blades touching the ground, and a loud cheer greeted the victor as he stood up.

he was a splendid animal, unquestionably—over six feet, with immense chest and shoulders, and modest withal; but a man of about five feet eight stepped into the ring, and overthrew him with such ease that a burst of laughter mingled with the cheer that followed. the triumph of the little man was, however, short-lived, for a bulgarian giant next made his appearance—evidently a stranger to those present—and after a prolonged struggle, laid the little man on his back.

for some time this giant strutted about defiantly, and it appeared as if he were to remain the champion, for no one seemed fit or willing to cope with him. at last some gipsy girls who were sitting in front of the ring, urged one of their tribe, a tall, strong, young fellow, to enter the lists against the giant.

the youth consented, and entered the ring; but a quick throw from the giant sent him sprawling, to the great disappointment of his brunette friends.

amongst the girls present, there sat a remarkably pretty young woman, whom the others endeavoured to urge to some course of action, to which she at first objected. after a little persuasion, however, she appeared to give in, and, rising, left the circle. soon after she returned with a magnificent specimen of humanity, whom she pushed into the ring with evident pride.

it was dobri petroff. the villagers greeted him by name with a ringing cheer as he advanced.

with a modest laugh he shook his huge antagonist by the hand.

he stripped to the waist, and each man presented a rounded development of muscular power, which would have done credit to any of the homeric heroes; but there was a look of grand intelligence and refinement in petroff’s countenance, which would probably have enlisted the sympathies of the villagers even if he had been an utter stranger.

having shaken hands, the wrestlers began to walk round each other, eagerly looking for a chance to get the “catch.” it seemed at first as if neither liked to begin, when, suddenly, the bulgarian turned sharp on petroff, and tried a favourite throw; but with the lithe easy motion of a panther, the blacksmith eluded his grasp. the excitement of the spectators became intense, for it now seemed as if the two huge fellows were well-matched, and that a prolonged struggle was about to take place. this, however, was a mistake. the villagers apparently had underrated the powers of their own champion, and the gipsy girls looked anxious, evidently fearing that the hitherto victorious stranger would again triumph.

for some moments the cautious walk-round continued, then there was a sudden exclamation of surprise from the crowd, for the blacksmith seized his adversary by the waist, and with a quick throw, caused him to turn almost a somersault in the air, and to come down on his back with stunning violence.

while the heavy fellow lay, as if slightly stunned, on the ground, petroff stooped, again shook hands with him, and then lifting him high in the air, as though he had been but a boy, set him on his feet, and turned to resume his jacket, amid the enthusiastic cheers of the people.

petroff’s jacket was handed to him by a pretty dark-eyed girl of about five years of age, who bore so strong a resemblance to the young woman who had brought the blacksmith on the scene, that i at once set them down as sisters. the child looked up in the champion’s face with such innocence that he could not resist the temptation to stoop and kiss her. then, taking the little one’s hand, he pushed through the crowd and left the ring. i observed that the young woman also rose and went with them.

feeling interested in these people. lancey and i followed, and overtook them before they had quitted the field. i said in russian:—

“good-day, petroff; you overthrew that fellow with greater ease than i had expected.”

the blacksmith gave me a look of pleased recognition as he returned my salutation.

“well, sir,” he said, “it was not difficult. the man is strong enough, but does not understand the art well. you are an englishman, i think.”

“i am,” said i, somewhat surprised as well by the question as by the superior manner and address of the man.

“it was a man from your land,” returned petroff, with a grave earnest look, “who taught me to wrestle,—a man from cornwall. he was a sailor—a stout fellow, and a good man. his vessel had been anchored off our village for some time, so that we saw a good deal of him. they had a passenger on board, who landed and went much about among the people. he was a german, and called himself a colporteur. he taught strange doctrines, and gave away many bibles, printed in the bulgarian tongue.”

“ah,” said i, “no doubt he was an agent of the british and foreign bible society.”

“perhaps so,” returned petroff, with a somewhat perplexed look, “but he said nothing about that. his chief desire seemed to be to get us to listen to what he read out of his bible. and some of us did listen, too. he gave one of the bibles to my wife here, and she has been reading it pretty eagerly ever since.”

“what! this, then, is your wife?” i exclaimed.

“yes, marika is my wife, and ivanka is my daughter,” replied petroff, with a tender glance at the little girl that trotted by his side.

“perhaps, marika, your cornish friend may have taught you to speak english,” said i, in my native tongue, turning to the woman.

marika shook her pretty head, laughed, and blushed. she seemed to understand me, but would not consent to reply in english.

“the colporteur of whom you have spoken,” said i, turning to the blacksmith, and again speaking russian, “did you a great service when he gave your wife the word of god.”

dobri petroff assented, but a frown for a minute overspread his face. “yes,” he said, “i admit that, but he also taught me to think, and it might have been better for me—for many of us in this land—if we did not think; if we could eat and sleep and work like the brutes that perish.”

i feared that i knew too well what the man referred to, and would gladly have dropped the subject, but could not do so without appearing rude.

“it is always well to think,” said i, “when we think rightly, that is, in accordance with the teachings of the bible, about which we have just been speaking. marika has read much of it to you, no doubt?”

“she has,” said the blacksmith, with a touch of sternness, “and among other things, she has read to me that ‘oppression driveth even a wise man mad.’ am i to understand that as merely stating the fact, or justifying the madness?”

without waiting for a reply to the question, he went on, hurriedly—

“you saw that turk to-day, who pushed me aside as if i had been a dog? that showed you the spirit of the men in power here, but you little know their practices—”

“petroff,” said i, interrupting, and looking at the man earnestly, “forgive me if i say that we had better not discuss the subject now. i have just arrived in your land, and know little about it yet. when i have seen and heard and thought much, i will be better able to understand you.”

petroff admitted with ready grace that i was right, and thrusting his fingers through the wild clustering curls of his black hair, as if to let the air circle more freely about his head, he turned sharp round, and pointed to a cottage which stood at a short distance from the high-road, at the entrance to the village.

“that is our home, sir; we shall feel happy if you will enter it.”

i willingly complied, and turned with them into the by-path that led to it.

the cottage was a mere hut, long and low, one end of which constituted the forge, the other end, divided into three compartments, being the dwelling-house. here i found the hand of marika very evident, in the neatness and cleanliness of everything in and around the place. the owners were very poor, but there was sufficient for comfort and health. on a shelf in a corner lay the bible which the family had received from the colporteur. it was the only book in the house, and evidently a cherished treasure.

in another corner, on a rudely-made but warm couch, lay a treasure of a different stamp—a boy, apparently about two years of age. as i looked at the curly black hair, the well-shaped nose, the firm, rosy lips, and the broad brow, i turned to petroff with a smile, and said—

“i need not ask if that boy is yours.”

the man did not at once reply, but seized the child, which our entrance had awakened, and raised it high above his head.

“do you hear that, little dob? the gentleman knows who you are by your mother’s eyes.”

“nay,” said i, with a laugh, “by its father’s nose. but now that you mention the eyes, i do recognise the mother’s plainly. how old is he?”

this was the first of a series of questions which opened the hearts of these people to me. on the strength of these jet-black eyes and the well-shaped nose, to say nothing of the colporteur and the bible, lancey and i struck up quite an intimate friendship, insomuch that at parting, little dob gave me a familiar dab on the face, and ivanka turned up her sweet little mouth to be kissed—quite readily and of her own accord. there is nothing on earth so captivating as a trustful child. my heart was knit to little ivanka on the spot, and it was plain that little dob and lancey were mutually attracted.

i remained at that village several days longer than i had intended, in order to cultivate the acquaintance of the blacksmith’s family. during that time i saw a good deal of the other villagers, and found that petroff was by no means a typical specimen. he was above his compeers in all respects, except in his own opinion; one of nature’s gentlemen, in short, who are to be found, not numerously perhaps, but certainly, in almost every land, with unusual strength of intellect, and breadth of thought, and power of frame, and force of will, and nobility of aspiration. such men in free countries, become leaders of the good and brave. in despotic lands they become either the deliverers of their country or the pests of society—the terror of rulers, the fomentors of national discord. doubtless, in many cases, where right principles are brought to bear on them, they learn to submit, and, sometimes, become mitigators of the evils which they cannot cure.

most of the other inhabitants of this village, some of whom were mohammedans, and some christians of the greek church, were sufficiently commonplace and uninteresting. many of them appeared to be simply lazy and inert. others were kindly enough, but stupid, and some were harsh, coarse, and cruel, very much as we find the peasantry in other parts of the world where they are ill-treated or uncared for.

while staying here i had occasion to go on shore one morning, and witnessed a somewhat remarkable scene in a café.

lancey and i, having made a longer excursion than usual and the day being rather hot, resolved to refresh ourselves in a native coffee-house. on entering we found it already pretty well filled with bulgarians, of whom a few were moslems. they were apparently of the poorer class. most of them sat on low stools, smoking chibouks—long pipes, with clay heads and amber mouth-pieces—and drinking coffee. the christians were all engrossed, at the moment of our arrival, with a stranger, who from his appearance and the package of books which lay open at his side, i at once judged to be a colporteur. dobri petroff, i observed, was near him, and interested so deeply in what was going on, that he did not at first perceive us.

having selected some new testaments and bibles from his pack, the colporteur handed them round for inspection. these, i found, were printed in the modern bulgarian tongue. the people greatly admired the binding of the volumes, and began to evince considerable interest in what the colporteur said about them. at last he proposed to read, and as no objection was made, he read and commented on several passages. although a german, he spoke bulgarian fluently, and ere long had aroused considerable interest, for the people had little or no knowledge of the bible; the only one to which they had access being that which lay on the pulpit of the greek church of the village, and which, being written in the ancient slavic language, was incomprehensible by them.

the priests in the greek church there are generally uneducated men, and their intoned services and “unknown tongue” do not avail much in the way of enlightenment. the schoolmasters, i was told by those who had good opportunity of judging, are much better educated than the priests. i observed that one of these, who had on a former visit been pointed out to me by my friend dobri, sat not far from the colporteur smoking his chibouk with a grave critical expression of countenance.

at last the colporteur turned to the 115th psalm, and i now began to perceive that the man had a purpose, and was gradually leading the people on.

it is well known that the greek church, although destitute of images in its religious buildings, accords the same reverence, or homage, to pictures which the romish church does to the former. at first, as the colporteur read, the people listened with grave attention; but when he came to the verses that describe the idols of the heathen as being made of, “silver and gold, the work of men’s hands,” with mouths that could not speak, and eyes that could not see, and ears that could not hear, several of the more earnest listeners began to frown, and it was evident that they regarded the language of the colporteur’s book as applicable to their sacred pictures, and resented the implied censure. when he came to the eighth verse, and read, “they that make them are like unto them, so is every one that trusteth in them,” there were indignant murmurs; for these untutored peasants, whatever their church might teach about such subtleties as worshipping god through pictures, accepted the condemnatory words in simplicity.

“why are you angry?” asked the colporteur, looking round.

“because,” answered a stern old man who sat, close to me, “your words condemn us as well as the heathen. they make out the pictures of our saints to be idols—images and pictures being one and the same thing.”

“but these are not my words,” said the colporteur, “they are the words of god.”

“if these words are true,” returned the old man, with increasing sternness, “then we are all wrong; but these words are not true—they are only the words of your bible, about which we know nothing.”

“my friends,” returned the colporteur, holding up the volume from which he had been reading, “this is not only my bible, it is also yours, the same that is read in your own churches, only rendered into your own modern tongue.”

at this point dobri petroff, who, i observed, had been listening keenly to what was said, started up with vehemence, and exclaimed—

“if this be true, we can prove it. our bible lies in the neighbouring church, and here sits our schoolmaster who reads the ancient slavic like his mother-tongue. come, let us clear up the matter at once.”

this proposal was heartily agreed to. the bulgarians in the café rose en masse, and, headed by the village schoolmaster, went to the church, where they found the bible that the priests were in the habit of reading, or rather intoning, and turned up the 115th psalm. it was found to correspond exactly with that of the colporteur!

the result was at first received in dead silence, and with looks of surprise by the majority. this was followed by murmuring comments and some disputes. it was evident that the seeds of an inquiring spirit had been sown that day, which would bear fruit in the future. the colporteur, wisely forbearing to press his victory at that time, left the truth to simmer. (see note 1.)

i joined him as he went out of the church, and, during a brief conversation, learned from him that an extensive work is being quietly carried on in turkey, which, although not attracting much attention, is nevertheless surely undermining the huge edifice of error by means of the lever of truth.

among other things, he said that in the year 1876 so many as twenty-eight thousand bibles, translated into the modern native tongue, had been circulated in the turkish empire and in greece by the british and foreign bible society, while the americans, who are busily engaged in the blessed work in armenia, had distributed twenty thousand copies.

leaving the village of yenilik and my bulgarian friends with much regret, i continued the voyage up the danube, landing here and there for a day or two and revelling in the bright weather, the rich prospects and the peaceful scenes of industry apparent everywhere, as man and beast rejoiced in the opening year.

time passed rapidly as well as pleasantly. sometimes i left the yacht in charge of mr whitlaw, and in company with my trusty servant travelled about the country, conversing with turks wherever i met them, thus becoming more and more versed in their language, and doing my best, without much success, to improve lancey in the same.

note 1. the facts on which the above is founded were given to the author by the reverend doctor thomson, who has resided in turkey as the agent of the british and foreign bible society for upwards of thirty years.