as captain smith had foretold, we were having an exceedingly fine-weather passage. all the way down the indian ocean we were favoured with pleasant breezes, fair for our course, and glorious weather. every care was taken to make the work as light as possible for the small crew, although we in the starboard watch were sorely exasperated by the second mate's devotion to sand and canvas—a mania that had given him his well-earned sobriquet of "jemmy the scrubber." if he could only have his watch slopping about with a few buckets of sand and rags of old canvas, rubbing away at the dingy interior of the bulwarks, that with all his attentions never would look white, he was in his glory. but oh! how we did hate the messy, fiddling abomination. it made our discontent the greater to notice that the mate's watch scarcely ever touched it. like a sensible man, mr. edny preferred to have one thoroughly good scrub down at lengthy intervals, going over the whole of the paint in one day, to scratching like a broody hen, first here and then there, in patches, and never making a decent job after all. it kept the watch in a chronic state of growl, which was only prevented from breaking out into downright rebellion by the knowledge that the second mate was always in hot water aft, although, owing to his seven years' service in the ship, the skipper and mate allowed him to have pretty much his own way. apart from this, things went on smoothly enough. many a time did jemmy, with only such assistance as bill and i could give him, set and take in the lighter sails without disturbing the rest of the watch, who were fast asleep in their several bunks. they knew this well, and consequently never turned out, even upon the most urgent necessity, without a chorus of growls at the second mate, although he never took the slightest notice of them.

so we slowly lumbered homeward in uneventful monotony, until one morning we made the land about east london, and congratulated ourselves that we were near the southern limit of our journey home. still the weather was kind to us. no envious southerly gale battered us back from the cape we were striving to get round, and presently we found ourselves in the embrace of the great agulhas current that for ever sets steadily round the cape westward. homeward bounders have reason to rejoice when they enter the limits of this mighty marine river, for, in spite of contrary winds or calms, they are irresistibly carried on the way they would go at a rate that is the same for the bluff-bowed sea-waggon as for the ocean-flyer. and one day, to my intense delight—for i had heard a tale from bill—the wind died completely away and the water became as smooth as a mirror. every bit of line in the ship that could by any possibility serve as a fishing-line was ferreted out, and fishing commenced. at first only the favoured few, whose lines were fifty or sixty fathoms long, got a look in, bringing up from the bank far below us some magnificent specimens of cod. then, as the fish followed their disappearing comrades up, the shorter lines came into play, and the fun became general. it was a regular orgie of fishing. at least three hundred splendid fish of various kinds, but chiefly cod, rewarded our efforts, the subsequent feast being something to date from. better still, the weather being cool, we were able to salt down a large quantity for use later on, so that we had fish for nearly a month afterwards. after about eight hours of this calm a gentle south-easterly breeze sprang up, which persisted and strengthened, until, with the dim outlines of the high land behind the cape of good hope on our starboard quarter, we were bowling cheerily along under every rag we could muster, our head pointing north-north-west, homeward-bound indeed.

then the work that must be undertaken in every respectable ship on the "home-stretch" came with a rush. setting up rigging, rattling down, general overhaul of running and standing gear, chipping iron-work and painting it with red lead, scraping bright woodwork, etc., etc., kept us all busy, although we were allowed watch and watch all along. in most ships it is the custom while in the south-east trades, homeward-bound, to give no afternoon watch below in order that the bulk of the "redding-up" may be done before crossing the line. but for several reasons our skipper did not think it advisable to tax his scanty crew too much. as for attendance on the sails, we might have been a steamship for all the work of that kind required—the "south-east trades" being notoriously steady and reliable in the atlantic, while the north-east trades are often entirely wanting. so we had trades, from the cape to the line, that did not vary a point in force or direction for three weeks; and, if she would have steered herself, she could have made that part of the passage unmanned. the time literally flew by, being delightfully punctuated every sunday by a glorious feed of roast pig—two of our large stock of home-bred porkers being sacrificed each saturday, and fairly apportioned among all hands.

st. helena was sighted ten days after losing sight of the african land—a huge black mass, towering to an enormous height, as it seemed to me. we approached it very closely, purposing to report ourselves there, but not to anchor. coming round under the huge crags of the southern end with all sail set, we had a splendid view of the cliffs, rising sheer from the sea, whereon the gliding shadow of our ship was cast in almost perfect resemblance. who was responsible for the neglect, i do not know, but suddenly down a gorge in the mountain rushed a fierce blast almost at right angles to the wind we were carrying, and making the canvas shake and flap with a thunderous noise. there was a great bustle to get sail off her, but unfortunately she paid off rather smartly, and crack went the mizzen-topmast before the sails came down. a piece of gross carelessness! for no coast of that kind should ever be approached under sail without all due precautions for shortening down. neglect of such preparation has caused the loss of many a fine ship and countless boats, with appalling sacrifice of life. it was the only spar we lost during the whole of that voyage.

by the time we had got the kites off her we had opened out the great gorge, in which, as if it had been dropped from the cliffs above, lies the town, the houses appearing curiously jumbled together. we were so close in that the great ladder, credited, i believe, with a rung for every day in the year, which leads up on to the cliffs from the town, was plainly visible. only one ship, the noach viii., of rotterdam, one of the regular old dutch east indiamen from java, was at anchor, for even then the prosperous days of st. helena as a sort of ocean "half-way house" had departed, never to return. we spelt out our name and ports of departure and destination with the length of passage, our information being duly acknowledged from the flag-staff. in a few minutes more we were again in the grip of our faithful friend the south-east trade, and feeling that another important milestone was passed on our long journey. placidly, equably, we jogged on, four days afterwards sighting and signalling to the barren volcano-scarred island of ascension, the exclusive domain of men-o'-war, for whose behalf a large naval establishment is maintained in highest efficiency. another landmark left behind. onward we sped with freshening trades and increasing speed until we were actually in eight degrees north latitude, so kindly had the fair wind we took off the pitch of the cape favoured us. but our good fortune still held. instead of at least a week of the detestable doldrums we fully expected, we had only one day's detention before the north-east trades swept down upon us, and away we went, braced sharp up on the starboard tack to the north-westward. and now for a while, all the tarry work being done, all hands were transformed into painters, and varnishers. within and without also, as far as the wash of the sea alongside would allow, we painted and polished, until the grimy, once shabby old packet looked quite smart and shining. the second mate was right in his element. he begrudged himself necessary rest, and often looked angrily at the sun when setting, as if he felt he was being defrauded out of a few minutes more of his beloved labour. never surely was there a man who loved work for its own sake better than he. never had a ship a more energetic seamanlike officer. yet he was by no means appreciated aft, although his worth was undeniable. and as so often happens, he was doomed to be a junior officer all his life, for he could not do the simplest problem in navigation without making the most ludicrous mistakes. however he "passed" for second mate was a mystery known only to the examiners. mainly, i believe, by his untiring efforts, all our painting operations were successfully completed before we reached thenorthern verge of the tropic, where changeable weather began to appear. but, when once the paint was on, he was like a hen with one chick. his eager eye was ever on the watch for any unfortunate who should dare to sully the whiteness of the bulwarks within, or heave anything overboard carelessly that might mark the glossy blackness outside. but his great carnival was yet to come. one morning shortly after four, under his directions, i lugged up from the fore-peak a number of lumps of sandstone, which he busied himself till daylight in shaping into sizable blocks, while i pounded the smaller pieces into sand. promptly at four bells the watch were gathered aft, and "holystoning" commenced. this delightful pastime consists of rubbing the decks, along the grain of the wood, with blocks of sandstone, the process being assisted by scattered sand and water. for three days the decks were in a continual muck of muddy sand, and jemmy's face wore a steady, beaming smile. when, at last, all the grit was flooded away, the result was dazzling. the decks were really beautiful in their spotless cleanliness. then, to my unbounded amazement, no sooner were they dry, than a vile mixture of varnish, oil, and coal-tar, was boiled in an impromptu furnace on deck, and with this hideous compost the spotless planks were liberally besmeared. i felt personally aggrieved. "why"—i could not help asking my chum bill—"why, in the name of goodness all this back-breaking holystoning only to plaster such a foul mess on the decks immediately afterward?" "preserves the wood," was the sententious reply, and it was all the answer i could get. certainly the poop was varnished only, which made it a golden hue until the first water was poured on it. after that it always looked as if a lot of soapsuds had been poured over it and left to dry.

but with this final outrage on common sense, as i couldn't help considering it, our ship-decorating came to an end. henceforth the chief object in view apparently was to preserve, as far as possible, the spick and span appearance of the vessel until she reached home. those beautiful decks, especially, were the objects of jemmy's constant solicitude. he found some nail-marks one day left by somebody's boots, and one would have thought the ship had sprung a leak like a well-mouth by the outcry he made. as far as possible work was confined to the fore part of the ship, and beside the ordinary routine little was done but the plaiting of rope yarns into sennit—always a kill-time. but we were now so far north that the variable weather of the north atlantic began to give us plenty of occupation in the working of the ship. fortunately we were not long delayed by contrary winds. the brave westerlies came to our assistance, driving us along in fine style and at increasing speed, until one day through the driving mist we sighted corvo, one of the northern outposts of the azores. it was fortunate that we did so, for thenceforward thickening weather and overcast skies prevented any observation of the heavenly bodies, and "dead reckoning" was our only means of knowing the ship's position. now captain smith, though thoroughly at home on the indian coasts, had a great dread of his own shores, and as the distance from land grew less he became exceedingly nervous, until at last, when by his estimate we were well up channel, he dared no longer run as fast as the following gale would have driven him, but shortened sail, much to every one else's disgust. ship after ship came up astern, passed us, and sped away homewards, while we dawdled through those crowded waters, running the risk of the fair wind blowing itself out before we had gained our port. before we had sighted land or light it came down a thick fog—a regular channel fret—which is a condition of things dreaded by all seamen on our dangerous coasts. we hove-to, keeping the foghorn going with its melancholy bray. thus for six mortal hours we lay helplessly tossing in the fairway, listening to the miserable discord of foghorns, syrens, and whistles, but unable to see the ship's length away from us. the anxiety was exceedingly great, for at any moment we were liable to be run down by something or another, whose commander was more venturesome than ours. suddenly out of the gloom came a hoarse hail, "d'ye want a pilot, sir?" a sweeter sound was never heard. without a moment's hesitation the old man replied, "yes, where are you?" he had hardly spoken before the dim outlines of a lugger came into view close alongside. "are you a trinity pilot?" asked the skipper. "no, sir, but i can run you up to him," replied the voice. "how much?" queried the captain. "five pounds, sir!" came promptly back. "all right, come aboard!" said the old man, and all hands crowded to the side to see our deliverer from suspense. "heave us a line, please, sir!" came up from the darkness, where we could see the shadowy form of the big boat tossing and tumbling in the heavy sea. the main brace was flung out to her, and, as she sheered in towards us, a black bundle seemed to hurl itself at us, and in a few seconds it stood erect and dripping on deck—a man swathed in oilskins till he looked like a mummy. only pausing to dash the water out of his eyes, he shouted, "square the mainyard!" and walking aft to the helmsman ordered him to "keep her away." a minute before all had been miserable in the extreme, and the bitter gale roaring overhead seemed to be withering all the life out of us. but what a change! the man seemed to have brought fine weather with him; the perfect confidence that every one had in him dispelling every gloomy thought. the lesson of that little episode, so commonplace, yet so full of instruction, has never been forgotten by me. it is so palpable that i dare not enlarge upon it.

meanwhile one of the lugger's crew had followed his chief, and was busy begging tobacco, meat, and anything else the steward could find to part with. when he had got all he could, the lugger sheered in again, and he tumbled back on board with his booty. very soon the fog cleared away, and as soon as it did so we saw the light on dungeness close aboard. we ran up to the pilot's cruising ground and hove-to, burning a blue light as a signal, while our friendly hoveller pocketed his five pounds and departed, well pleased with his four hours' earnings. these men get called some very hard names, and may perhaps occasionally deserve them; but as long as sailing-ships exist they will be found, as we undoubtedly found one, a very present help in time of need, and the salvation of many a fine ship.

the trinity pilot was some time making his appearance, for there were many ships about, and we must needs wait our turn. but in due time we were supplied, the yards were again squared, and away we went around the foreland. presently there was a welcome sound of paddle-wheels, and up came a tug anxious for the job of towing us up to london. but our captain's scotch economy forbade him to take steam while there was so much fair wind going for nothing; and the subsequent haggling was almost as protracted as bill's celebrated feat in bombay. at last, after two or three departures of the tug in fits of irritation, a bargain was struck, and the ever-welcome command came pealing forward, "get the hawser along!" no need to call all hands. everybody came on the jump, and that mighty rope was handled as if it had been a lead-line. in a wonderfully short time the end was passed to the tug, a severe turn was taken with our end round the windlass bitts, and with what the sailor calls "a fair wind ahead," we went spinning up through the intricate channels of the thames estuary. all hands worked with a will to get the sails clewed up and unbent from the yards, as it was now daylight. such a morning's work had not been done on board for many a day, for was not the end of the voyage here. as for me, i was continually in hot water, for i could not keep my eyes off the wonderful scenes through which we were passing. it was my first home-coming to london by sea, and on the two previous occasions of leaving, i had either no heart to look about me or i had come down at night. just stopping at gravesend long enough to exchange pilots, since the sea-pilot never takes a ship into dock, we sped onward again, the tug straining every nerve to save the tide. soon everything was ready for docking, and all hands were allowed to "stand by," resting until we should reach blackwall.

the east india docks at last, with the usual little group of expectant yet nonchalant officials and the loafers in the background. are we going to dock at once, or will she tie up in the basin? as anxiously as if docking was going to take a month were these questions bandied about, so eager were all the fellows to get ashore. joy!—she is hauled in to the side of the basin, made fast temporarily, and the mate, with a merry twinkle in his eye, says the closing benediction, "that'll do, men." by this time the voracious crowd of boarding-masters' runners, tailors' ditto, and unclassified scoundrels were swarming on board (it was before the beneficent regulations were passed forbidding these gentry to board an in-coming ship), and the forecastle was a perfect pandemonium. but one by one the chaps emerged with their dunnage, and were carried off in triumph by one or other of the sharks, until, the last one having gone, we of the half-deck were left in peace. and now i was home what was i going to do? i felt like a stranger in a strange land, and it was with a sense of great relief that i accepted an invitation to stay by the ship for the present.

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