at certain seasons of the year the minds of mariners navigating the indian ocean are always, more or less, upon the tension of expectancy concerning the possibility of their encountering one of those tremendous meteors known as cyclones. a keen watch is continually kept upon the mercury in the barometer for any deviation from its normal ebb and flow, which occurs with the greatest regularity in the tropics during settled weather. for these truly awful storms are so justly dreaded, by even the bravest seaman, that no danger of navigation claims more attention. the possibility of meeting, or being overtaken by one, bulks largely in the dog-watch discussions among the foremast hands, and he who has successfully braved an encounter with a cyclone, speaks with an authority denied to his fellows who have never had such a painful experience. even to me, juvenile as i was, an almost deferential hearing was accorded when i spoke of my havana experience—the hurricane of the west indies, the typhoon of the china seas, and the cyclone of the indian ocean being only different names for the same mighty atmospheric convulsion. happily, our leisurely progress northward was unattended by any such deeply perilous adventure as the encounter with a cyclone would have been. doubts were freely expressed as to the probability of the western belle weathering one at any time, but especially under our present short-handed conditions. every day, therefore, that passed seeing us nearer port was noted with delight, as lessening our chances of utter extermination. and when at last we passed the latitude of cape comorin and entered the arabian sea, there was a distinct lightening of faces and a tendency to make little of the weary passage now gradually nearing its end. we did not see a vessel of any description, during our journey from the cape, until within two hundred miles of bombay, neither did we sight any land. but one morning, to my amazement, i saw a vessel nearing us, unlike any i had ever seen before—except in pictures. she had a hull like the half of an egg cut lengthways, and was propelled by an enormous white sail of lateen shape, or almost like one of our jibs. she could not have been more than ten or fifteen tons capacity, and how she stood up under such an immense spread of sail was a mystery. she came flying along like a huge sea-bird, shooting up almost in the wind's eye, and presently, graceful as an albatross, rounded-to under our stern and "spilled" her sail. seated in the after part of this queer craft were two or three dignified-looking men in white raiment, with the peculiar stiff headgear affected by parsees. one of the black, unclad natives forming her crew hooked on to our fore-chains, and, with an agility i should have hardly believed possible, one of the white-robed visitors seized a rope flung over the side and skipped on board. speaking correct english, he saluted the mate, who stood at the gangway; then hastened aft, and, making a low salaam to the skipper, solicited the honour of being our "dubash," or general purveyor, while we were in harbour. to his great disappointment, however, captain smith was an old bombay trader, and always employed the same dubash; so that, after a few compliments, our visitor politely took his leave, hoping for better luck next time.

thenceforward we met many native craft, or "buggalows," as they call them, lumbering along the coast on various errands, all characterized by a general makeshift appearance that made me wonder how ever they dared brave the dangers of the sea at all. but that is a peculiarity of all eastern native craft. they are things of shreds and patches, and look as seaworthy as a waggon with a worn-out tarpaulin set. most of them creep along shore pretty closely, and, at night, lower their wooden anchors down about twenty fathoms, furl sail, and turn in—or, at least, go to sleep. she is pretty safe to fetch up somewhere, and time doesn't matter. if she gets run down by some bustling ship or another, it is kismet, and not to be helped.

at last we drew near bombay—that liverpool of the east—the first sight of which is so amazing to an untravelled briton. i was almost stupefied with wonder at the mighty stream of traffic, the immense fleet of ships that lay at anchor in the magnificent harbour, and the beauty of the great city. we had shipped a white pilot, who, being anxious to get up to the anchorage before dusk, and make one job of the mooring, was "cracking on" to an exceedingly stiff breeze, making the old ship heel over alarmingly. suddenly i heard my name called. running aft, i was met by the second mate, who, handing me a coil of line, ordered me to go up and reeve the signal halliards in the mizzen truck. now, i should premise that, like all american-built ships, we carried very long "royal poles," or bare tapering extensions of the masts above the highest part of the rigging. ours were extra long—some sixteen feet or so—and crowned at the top, which was not much thicker than a man's wrist, with a flat piece of wood about as large as a cheese-plate, in one side of which was a sheave for the signal halliards or flag-line. i started aloft boldly enough; but when i reached the base of the pole, and saw to what a height its bareness towered above me, while the staggering ship lurched to leeward and the foaming sea roared a hundred and twenty feet below, my heart failed me, my head swam, and all my scanty stock of strength left me. for some time i sat with my legs clutched round the pole, just clinging, without power to move. then i heard the voice of the second mate pealing up from the deck. "hurry up there with those halliards!" strange as it may appear, although i felt that i was going to certain death, my fear of him was so great that i made the attempt. pulling myself up, i shut my eyes and murmured a prayer. trembling in every nerve, but fighting against my benumbing weakness, i actually struggled to the top. as i write, the cold sweat bursts from every pore, for i feel again the terrible agony of that moment. opening my eyes, i thrust at the opening of the sheave with the end of the line; but it was knotted, and would not go through. i had tried and failed, and with my last flash of energy i grasped the pole again in both arms, and slid down on to the eyes of the royal rigging. here i clung for a few minutes to recover myself, and to be violently sick; then, feeling as if the bitterness of death was past, i descended to the deck, walked up to mr. cottam, and said, "i have tried, and i can't do it, sir—not if you kill me." he stared at me blankly for a moment. then turning away, as if the situation was beyond him, he called my constant chum, bill smith, and gave him the job. he, being strong as a bear and agile as a monkey, very soon managed it; not without considerable grumbling at jemmy for sending a "weakly kid" like me on such an errand. the whole episode may seem trivial; but i frankly declare that having, in my experience, faced death many times, i have never felt such terror as i did then.

we made a "flying moor" in fine style, in spite of the great fleet of ships surrounding us, the sails were furled, decks cleared up, and all hands dismissed forrard to meditate upon the successful close of our passage of seven months from liverpool. soon everybody's attention was drawn to a large ship near by, whose crew were weighing anchor, homeward bound. it was the stornoway, the vessel we had seen towing into liverpool as we left. she had discharged and loaded in liverpool, made her passage out, and now, having discharged and loaded in bombay, was returning again. such differences there are between sailing ships.

the morning brought a chattering crowd of coolies carrying little shallow baskets and short hoes. at first, the idea of discharging two thousand tons of coal by such childish means seemed absurd, and, when a start was made, impossible. for the poor wretches—men, women, and children—did not appear to have the faintest idea of working, or to possess enough strength to do more than carry their attenuated bodies about. but they were formed into lines, from the hatches to the gangways, and, while some scratched the coal into the baskets with the hoes, the rest passed them from hand to hand to a monotonous chant of "jal marck ooday, jal marck oodayleeallah, jal marck ooday." the spelling, of course, is phonetic, and i haven't the faintest idea what it meant. so mechanically did they "puckarow" those baskets, that often one would pass from the hatch to the gangway empty, the coolie on the rail going through the motions of tilting it over into the lighter and returning it. in any case, i do not think the average weight of coal passed in a basket was seven pounds. yet somehow the lighters got filled. there was such a number of coolies, and the passing was so incessant, that it was bound to tell. the crew, apart from the discomfort of the all-pervading coal-dust, had a very good time, as little work being required of them as possible. and, while a plentiful allowance of fresh meat and vegetables was provided by the ship, there was also a bumboat in attendance that kept the men well supplied, at their own cost, with fruit, eggs, etc. i was fortunate enough again to be book-keeper, receiving in return as much fruit as i wanted.

except on sundays, matters went on in a very humdrum style, the only incident out of the common being a picnic excursion to the rock-temples of elephanta. but i have no intention of describing such places, that, indeed, are as well known to readers as the isle of wight. my object is a totally different one. on sundays i should think the bulk of the trading population got afloat, and came ship-visiting. if our ship's deck was a fair sample of those of the rest of the fleet, there could have been little merchandise left in the bazaars. from the cabin to the forecastle the decks were almost impassable for the piles of curios of all kinds—clothes, cigars, birds, etc. the bulk of the stuff was dreadful rubbish, almost worthless, in fact; yet, owing to the ignorance of sailors of what can be bought in decent shops at home, the trash fetched high prices, at least double what really good articles of the same style and place of origin could be bought for in london. and, in addition to that, by a system nothing short of robbery, each man was charged two shillings and fourpence for every rupee he drew against his hardly earned wages, while at that time the rupee was quoted officially at one shilling and eightpence. who pocketed the eightpence, i do not know; but i shrewdly suspect that it was considered, like the backsheesh levied from the tailor and the bumboat-wallah, the captain's legitimate perquisite. i have known a captain pocket fifty rupees off a bumboat bill of two hundred and fifty, and, of course, the keen-witted hindu based his charges to the men on the expectation of such a tax; so that jack was robbed on every hand, unless he sternly made up his mind to spend nothing "in the country." and, as not one in a hundred sailors have such resolution as that, there are some very pretty pickings out of their scanty wages.

the time sped swiftly away, and soon the coal was all out and most of the stone ballast in. no cargo was obtainable for us in bombay, so we were ordered to proceed to bimliapatam on the coromandel coast, and after that to coconada to complete. but, before our departure, the time-honoured custom of giving the crew twenty-four hours' liberty must be observed. consequently the mate's watch duly received twenty rupees each, and, dressed in their best, started for the shore one morning at eight o'clock. all of them returned the following morning except bradley, the hirsute bluenose who lost my fish for me on the passage out. but oh! what a pitiful, dirty, draggled lot they were. and, in spite of their miserable condition, they must needs get up several fights among themselves in order to crown the delights they had been indulging in ashore. it was quite out of the question to allow the second mate's watch ashore that day; and this decision nearly caused our first serious row, so eager were the other half of the crew to go and do even as their fellows had done. but as there was nothing to prevent the petty officers going, they all furbished up and started, taking us two boys with them. my chum bill smith was of the party; but as soon as we landed he went off with me, being far too old a hand to be led by anybody. of course, poor fellow! having no wages, he had contrived to earn a little by washing, etc., and every copper was carefully hoarded for the bombay bazaars, where, he informed me, better bargains in clothes could be got than anywhere in london. up and down the crowded lanes of the bazaar he led me, driving away with contumely the pilots who offered to personally conduct us for a consideration, and fingering the goods of the various shopkeepers with the air of one who is bursting with wealth. at last, finding a booth to his mind, he entered, and forthwith selected a great heap of things: such as soldier's trousers, woollen shirts, dungaree jumpers and trousers, towels, caps, soap—in fact, a regular outfit. at last the middle-aged mussulman who ran the show began to look suspicious, and said, "you got plenty rupee, johnny?" "i've got all i want, johnny," said he. "gimme jar o' ginger. ginger, mind; none o' yer m'lasses." the ginger was brought and added to the heap. then bill said, "now, then, johnny, how much for the lot?" a portentous calculation ensued, which occupied, i should think, twenty minutes. at last the account was made up—forty-five rupees. without moving a muscle of his face, bill immediately replied, "i'll give you ten." horror, amazement, indignation, chased one another over the countenances of the shopkeepers. at last one of them found words. "you make plenty laugh, johnny; speakee barabba one time. gib forty rupee." "not another pice," said bill, pulling out his money and counting it ostentatiously. well, the antics those two natives did cut, to be sure! they worked themselves up into a foaming rage, they cast their turbans recklessly in the dust; in such english as they could command they reviled their tormentor and all his relations to the remotest degree, and finally came down to thirty rupees. that, they swore with sudden solemnity, was absolutely the bottom figure, at which they would lose at least five rupees on the transaction. "oh, very well," said bill, "then i'm off." and, rising, he said, "come along, tom." out we went, and strolled leisurely along the alley for about a hundred yards, when suddenly one of the merchants came flying after us, and, with many smiles, besought bill to return and "speakee barabba" now. back we went, and the game began again. i got thoroughly weary of it at last; but bill's patience was inexhaustible. he was rewarded, finally, by their absolute submission to his terms, when, to my consternation, he refused to have the goods unless they gave him a large bottle of pepper as backsheesh. surely, i thought, this will so disgust them that they will assault us. but no; after another quarter of an hour's haggling they yielded the last point, and, laden like a sumpter mule, bill took his triumphant departure.

by this time i had seen more than enough of the steaming hubbub of the bazaars. but bill had more business to transact; so we parted company; and i wandered away alone, gazing with wide-eyed wonder at the innumerable strange sights to be seen in this great humming city. no one molested me, although many curious glances were cast at me by groups of languid natives, of all shades, as i trudged along without any definite idea whither i was going. at last, utterly weary, i found myself down at the water's edge again. the afternoon was getting on, and i should soon have to return on board; but as i had still two rupees, i thought i would like a trip up the harbour to mazagan, or beyond it. full of my project, i chartered a canoe with two men in it to take me for a sail, bargaining, as well as i was able, in my ignorance of the language, for a two hours' sail, ending on board my ship. we started, and, for perhaps half an hour, i thoroughly enjoyed myself, as the canoe glided along right up past the p. and o. moorings and the arsenal. then, when we were clear of the shipping, my boatmen suddenly stopped and began an animated discussion with me, which was somewhat complicated by the fact that neither of us understood the other. eventually i became convinced that they wanted more money, and their previously mild behaviour grew certainly more aggressive. i felt very nervous, but struggled to conceal the fact, speaking boldly, as if accustomed to be obeyed. finally i produced my money, and turned my pockets inside out to show that i had no more. upon seeing this they held a long conversation, during which the canoe drifted idly and i sat upon thorns. at last, much to my relief, they turned the boat's head towards the anchorage again, and, without another word, paddled homeward. arriving at about a cable's length from the ship they stopped, and demanded their money. but i, having seen the stalwart figure of the mate standing on the forecastle head, stood up, and, with all the voice i could muster, shouted, "western belle, ahoy!" mr. edny heard me and waved his hand. this move on my part evidently disconcerted them, and they paddled vigorously for the gangway. as soon as the canoe touched the side, i sprang up and told mr. edny what had happened. he asked me what i had promised them. i told him one rupee. taking eight annas from me, he went down the gangway and offered it to them. when they set up a perfect storm of protests, he just pitched the piece of money into the canoe and pushed it away from the side, returning on board without taking any further notice. needless to say, i was heartily thankful to be well out of what at one time looked like an ugly scrape.

next morning the liberty men returned on board in the usual condition, but bradley was not with them. that night, however, he paid us a visit by stealth, coming up the cable and rifling several of his shipmates' chests of whatever was worth carrying off. then he went ashore again unperceived, showing what a very slack watch was kept. there was consternation in the forecastle when the robbery was discovered, and a good deal of wild talk; but bradley was something of a "bucko," and i very much doubt whether any of them would have said much to him had he been there in person. three days longer we remained at anchor, although apparently quite ready for sea. on the second morning bradley returned, and climbing on board, walked aft and coolly asked the mate for a rupee to pay his boatman with. being curtly refused and ordered forward, he stripped off the filthy white shirt he was wearing, and rolling it up, flung it over to the dinghy-wallah, bidding him to "kinnaree jao, jildee" (get ashore quick). with this the poor beggar was perforce content, making off hurriedly. bradley then made for his bunk, saying no word to any one until the afternoon, when he bade julius cæsar go and tell the skipper that he was very ill. this message actually made the old man angry. he came forward and gave the defaulter a piece of his mind; but being evidently impressed by the look of the man, who had been gutter-raking in all the filth of "coolie town" for three days, he sent for the harbour doctor. that worthy, after examination, gave it as his opinion that there was nothing the matter with the fellow but bad gin and want of food, assuring the skipper that he would be all right as soon as we got to sea.

next morning we got under way and sailed, not without another protest from bradley, of which no notice was taken, as the medical officer, who was then paying his final visit, adhered to his opinion. we took a favourable wind at the harbour's mouth, and slid gently down the coast under easy sail, the vessel being "tender" from scanty allowance of ballast. but the weather was lovely, the wind fair, and everything promised a delightful trip. bradley, however, steadily got worse. presently an angry-looking eruption of pimples burst out all over his body, even the inside of his mouth being invaded. then my purgatory commenced. no one would have anything to do with him, although he was quite helpless. he was shifted out of the forecastle up on to the forecastle-head, and a sort of tent rigged over him to keep the sun off. then i was told off to attend to him. the horror of that time will never leave me. he was, as i have before noted, with the exception of the mate, the most hairy man i ever saw, the black shaggy covering of his arms and legs being at least an inch and a half long, while his chest and back were more like a great ape's than a man's. therefore, when all those pimples grew until they were large as a finger-top, and so close together that not a speck of sound flesh was visible, the task of washing him, which i had to perform alone, was really an awful one. i must draw a veil over the further development of those horrible pustules.... happily for the patient he became delirious and apparently insensible to pain. how i kept my reason i don't know; but i thought, and still think, that it was a frightful ordeal for a youngster under fourteen to endure for a whole week. i had nothing else to do; no relief, except my ordinary watch below, during which he was left quite alone. on the eleventh day after leaving bombay we entered bimliapatam roads, and just as we did so death mercifully came to his rescue and mine. the carpenter botched up a rough coffin, into which the unrecognizable heap, with all its bedding, was hurriedly bundled, taken ashore, and buried at the foot of the flagstaff without any ceremony whatever. no one seemed to know what the disease had been; but i can only say that having seen lepers in all stages of disfigurement, and many other cases of terrible pestilential ravages, i have never seen anything so awful as the case of william bradley.