finding cleveland hopeless for me, i one day picked up and left. then came buffalo, which i reached toward the end of march. aside from the falls i found it a little tame, no especial snap to it—not as much as i had felt to be characteristic of cleveland. what interest there was for me i provided myself, wandering about in odd drear neighborhoods, about grain elevators and soap factories and railroad yards and manufacturing districts. here, as in cleveland, i could not help but see that in spite of our boasted democracy and equality of opportunity there was as much misery and squalor and as little decent balancing of opportunity against energy as anywhere else in the world. the little homes, the poor, shabby, colorless, drear, drab little homes with their grassless “yards,” their unpaved streets, their uncollected garbage, their fluttering, thin-flamed gas-lamps, the crowds of ragged, dirty, ill-cared-for children! near at hand was always the inevitable and wretched saloon, not satisfying a need for pleasure in a decent way but pandering to the lowest and most conniving and most destroying instincts of the lowest politicians and heelers and grafters and crooks, while the huge financial and manufacturing magnates at the top with their lust for power and authority used the very flesh of the weaker elements for purposes of their own. it was the saloon, not liquor, which brought about the prohibition folly. i used to listen, as a part of my reportorial duties, to the blatherings of thin-minded, thin-blooded, thin-experienced religionists as well as to those of kept editorial writers, about the merits and blessings and opportunities of our noble and bounteous land; but whenever i encountered such regions as this i knew well enough that there was something wrong with their noble maunderings. shout as they might, there was here displayed before my very eyes ample evidence that somewhere there was a screw loose in the “fatherhood of man—brotherhood of god” machinery.

after i had placed myself in a commonplace neighborhood near the business center, i canvassed the newspaper offices and their editors. although i had in my pocket that letter from the publisher of the st. louis republic extolling my virtues as a reporter and correspondent, so truly vagrom was my mood and practical judgment that i did not present it to any one. instead i merely mooned into one office after another (there were only four papers here), convinced before entering that i should not get anything—and i did not. one young city editor, seeming to take at least an interest in me, assured me that if i would remain in buffalo for six weeks he could place me; but since i had not enough money to sustain myself so long i decided not to wait. ten days spent in reconnoitering these offices daily, and i concluded that it was useless to remain longer. yet before i went i determined to see at least one thing more: the falls.

therefore one day i traveled by trolley to niagara and looked at that tumbling flood, then not chained or drained by turbine water-power sluices. i was impressed, but not quite so much as i had thought i should be. standing out on a rock near the greatest volume of water under a gray sky, i was awed by the downpour and then became dizzy and felt as though i were being carried along whether i would or not. farther upstream i stared at the water as it gathered force and speed, wondering how i should feel if i were in a small canoe and fighting it for my life. behind the falls were great stalagmites and stalactites of ice and snow still standing from the cold of weeks before. i recalled that blondel, a famous french swimmer of his day, had ten years before swum these fierce and angry waters below the falls. i wondered how he had done it, so wildly did they leap, huge wheels of water going round and round and whitecaps leaping and spitting and striking at each other.

when i returned to buffalo i congratulated myself that if i had got nothing else out of my visit to buffalo, at least i had gained this.