the last nails were driven in the precious boxes, and i started overland in november with my little son, now nearly two years old.

"overland" in those days meant nine days from new york to san francisco. arriving in chicago, i found it impossible to secure a section on the pullman car so was obliged to content myself with a lower berth. i did not allow myself to be disappointed.

on entering the section, i saw an enormous pair of queer cow hide shoes, the very queerest shoes i had ever seen, lying on the floor, with a much used travelling bag. i speculated a good deal on the shoes, but did not see the owner of them until several hours later, when a short thick-set german with sandy close-cut beard entered and saluted me politely. "you are noticing my shoes perhaps madame?"

"yes" i said, involuntarily answering him in german.

his face shone with pleasure and he explained to me that they were made in russia and he always wore them when travelling. "what have we," i thought, "an anarchist?"

but with the inexperience and fearlessness of youth, i entered into a most delightful conversation in german with him. i found him rather an extraordinarily well educated gentleman and he said he lived in nevada, but had been over to vienna to place his little boy at a military school, "as," he said, "there is nothing like a uniform to give a boy self-respect." he said his wife had died several months before. i congratulated myself that the occupant of the upper berth was at least a gentleman.

the next day, as we sat opposite each other chatting, always in german, he paused, and fixing his eyes rather steadily upon me he remarked: "do you think i put on mourning when my wife died? no indeed, i put on white kid gloves and had a fiddler and danced at the grave. all this mourning that people have is utter nonsense."

i was amazed at the turn his conversation had taken and sat quite still, not knowing just what to say or to do.

after awhile, he looked at me steadily, and said, very deferentially, "madame, the spirit of my dead wife is looking at me from out your eyes."

by this time i realized that the man was a maniac, and i had always heard that one must agree with crazy people, so i nodded, and that seemed to satisfy him, and bye and bye after some minutes which seemed like hours to me, he went off to the smoking room.

the tension was broken and i appealed to a very nice looking woman who happened to be going to some place in nevada near which this doctor lived, and she said, when i told her his name, "why, yes, i heard of him before i left home, he lives in silver city, and at the death of his wife, he went hopelessly insane, but," she added, "he is harmless, i believe."

this was a nice fix, to be sure, and i staid over in her section all day, and late that night the doctor arrived at the junction where he was to take another train. so i slept in peace, after a considerable agitation.

there is nothing like experience to teach a young woman how to travel alone.

in san francisco i learned that i could now go as far as los angeles by rail, thence by steamer to san diego, and so on by stage to fort yuma, where my husband was to meet me with an ambulance and a wagon.

i was enchanted with the idea of avoiding the long sea-trip down the pacific coast, but sent my boxes down by the steamer "montana," sister ship of the old "newbern," and after a few days' rest in san francisco, set forth by rail for los angeles. at san pedro, the port of los angeles, we embarked for san diego. it was a heavenly night. i sat on deck enjoying the calm sea, and listening to the romantic story of lieutenant philip reade, then stationed at san diego. he was telling the story himself, and i had never read or heard of anything so mysterious or so tragic.

then, too, aside from the story, mr. reade was a very good-looking and chivalrous young army officer. he was returning to his station in san diego, and we had this pleasant opportunity to renew what had been a very slight acquaintance.

the calm waters of the pacific, with their long and gentle swell, the pale light of the full moon, our steamer gliding so quietly along, the soft air of the california coast, the absence of noisy travellers, these made a fit setting for the story of his early love and marriage, and the tragic mystery which surrounded the death of his young bride.

all the romance which lived and will ever live in me was awake to the story, and the hours passed all too quickly.

but a cry from my little boy in the near-by deck stateroom recalled me to the realities of life and i said good-night, having spent one of the most delightful evenings i ever remember.

mr. reade wears now a star on his shoulder, and well earned it is, too. i wonder if he has forgotten how he helped to bind up my little boy's finger which had been broken in an accident on the train from san francisco to los angeles? or how he procured a surgeon for me on our arrival there, and got a comfortable room for us at the hotel? or how he took us to drive (with an older lady for a chaperon), or how he kindly cared for us until we were safely on the boat that evening? if i had ever thought chivalry dead, i learned then that i had been mistaken.

san diego charmed me, as we steamed, the next morning, into its shining bay. but as our boat was two hours late and the stage-coach was waiting, i had to decline mr. reade's enchanting offers to drive us around the beautiful place, to show me the fine beaches, and his quarters, and all other points of interest in this old town of southern california.

arizona, not san diego, was my destination, so we took a hasty breakfast at the hotel and boarded the stage, which, filled with passengers, was waiting before the door.

the driver waited for no ceremonies, muttered something about being late, cracked his whip, and away we went. i tried to stow myself and my little boy and my belongings away comfortably, but the road was rough and the coach swayed, and i gave it up. there were passengers on top of the coach, and passengers inside the coach. one woman who was totally deaf, and some miners and blacksmiths, and a few other men, the flotsam and jetsam of the western countries, who come from no one knoweth whence, and who go, no one knoweth whither, who have no trade or profession and are sometimes even without a name.

they seemed to want to be kind to me. harry got very stage-sick and gave us much trouble, and they all helped me to hold him. night came. i do not remember that we made any stops at all; if we did, i have forgotten them. the night on that stage-coach can be better imagined than described. i do not know of any adjectives that i could apply to it. just before dawn, we stopped to change horses and driver, and as the day began to break, we felt ourselves going down somewhere at a terrific speed.

the great concord coach slipped and slid and swayed on its huge springs as we rounded the curves.

the road was narrow and appeared to be cut out of solid rock, which seemed to be as smooth as soapstone; the four horses were put to their speed, and down and around and away we went. i drew in my breath as i looked out and over into the abyss on my left. death and destruction seemed to be the end awaiting us all. everybody was limp, when we reached the bottom—that is, i was limp, and i suppose the others were. the stage-driver knew i was frightened, because i sat still and looked white and he came and lifted me out. he lived in a small cabin at the bottom of the mountain; i talked with him some. "the fact is," he said, "we are an hour late this morning; we always make it a point to 'do it' before dawn, so the passengers can't see anything; they are almost sure to get stampeded if we come down by daylight."

i mentioned this road afterwards in san francisco, and learned that it was a famous road, cut out of the side of a solid mountain of rock; long talked of, long desired, and finally built, at great expense, by the state and the county together; that they always had the same man to drive over it, and that they never did it by daylight. i did not inquire if there had ever been any accidents. i seemed to have learned all i wanted to know about it.

after a little rest and a breakfast at a sort of roadhouse, a relay of horses was taken, and we travelled one more day over a flat country, to the end of the stage-route. jack was to meet me. already from the stage i had espied the post ambulance and two blue uniforms. out jumped major ernest and jack. i remember thinking how straight and how well they looked. i had forgotten really how army men did look, i had been so long away.

and now we were to go to fort yuma and stay with the wells' until my boxes, which had been sent around by water on the steamer "montana," should arrive. i had only the usual thirty pounds allowance of luggage with me on the stage, and it was made up entirely of my boy's clothing, and an evening dress i had worn on the last night of my stay in san francisco.

fort yuma was delightful at this season (december), and after four or five days spent most enjoyably, we crossed over one morning on the old rope ferryboat to yuma city, to inquire at the big country store there of news from the gulf. there was no bridge then over the colorado.

the merchant called jack to one side and said something to him in a low tone. i was sure it concerned the steamer, and i said: "what it is?"

then they told me that news had just been received from below, that the "montana" had been burned to the water's edge in guaymas harbor, and everything on board destroyed; the passengers had been saved with much difficulty, as the disaster occurred in the night.

i had lost all the clothes i had in the world—and my precious boxes were gone. i scarcely knew how to meet the calamity.

jack said: "don't mind, mattie; i'm so thankful you and the boy were not on board the ship; the things are nothing, no account at all."

"but," said i, "you do not understand. i have no clothes except what i have on, and a party dress. oh! what shall i do?" i cried.

the merchant was very sympathetic and kind, and major wells said, "let's go home and tell fanny; maybe she can suggest something."

i turned toward the counter, and bought some sewing materials, realizing that outside of my toilet articles and my party dress all my personal belongings were swept away. i was in a country where there were no dressmakers, and no shops; i was, for the time being, a pauper, as far as clothing was concerned.

when i got back to mrs. wells i broke down entirely; she put her arms around me and said: "i've heard all about it; i know just how you must feel; now come in my room, and we'll see what can be done."

she laid out enough clothing to last me until i could get some things from the east, and gave me a grey and white percale dress with a basque, and a border, and although it was all very much too large for me, it sufficed to relieve my immediate distress.

letters were dispatched to the east, in various directions, for every sort and description of clothing, but it was at least two months before any of it appeared, and i felt like an object of charity for a long time. then, too, i had anticipated the fitting up of our quarters with all the pretty cretonnes and other things i had brought from home. and now the contents of those boxes were no more! the memory of the visit was all that was left to me. it was very hard to bear.

preparations for our journey to camp macdowell were at last completed. the route to our new post lay along the valley of the gila river, following it up from its mouth, where it empties into the colorado, eastwards towards the southern middle portion of arizona.